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THE  LIBRARY 

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OF 

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THE  UNIVERSITY 

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OF  CALIFORNIA 

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GIFT  OF 

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PROFESSOR 

LEON  J.  RICHARDSON 

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AFTER-THOUGHTS 


FOREIGN    TRAVEL 


Ptstorir  i^antrs  anir  Capital  Citus. 


BY 

SULLIVAN  HOLMAN   M'COLLESTER. 


THIRD  EDITION. 


fi/.QUl^u~ 


BOSTOIST: 

NEW    ENGLAND    PUBLISHING    CO. 
16    Haw  LEY    Street, 

1882. 


COPTRIOHT, 

Br  NEW  ENGLAND  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 
Boston,  1882. 


GIFT 


Stkbbottped  and  Pbintbd  by  Alfbbd  Mudqe  &  Son, 
34  School  Stbskt,  Boston. 


I)97S 


IX) 


3iis  mittt. 


THE  ASSOCIATE   OF  3fY   STUDIES    AND    EXPERIENCES, 


APTKB   TWENTT-NINB  YEAH9  OP  HAPPT  COMPANIONSHIP, 


jis  ID'olttme 


IS  AFFECTIONATELY  INSCRIBED. 


AUTHOR. 


702 


PEEFACE. 


These  After-Thoughts  of  two  and  a  half  years 
abroad,  are  not  offered  as  exhaustive  essaj's,  but 
rather  suggestive  compends  of  subjects  considered. 
They  were  first  presented  at  some  intervals  in  lec- 
tures, which  will  account  for  their  variety  of  style 
and  method.  Their  aim  is  to  direct  special  atten- 
tion to  those  countries  and  events,  whence  has  come 
our  civilization.  Accordingly,  I  have  gleaned  from 
the  places  visited  and  studied,  such  facts  and  sug- 
gestions, as  w.ould  naturally  induce  others  to  investi- 
gate and  gather  up  from  foreign  lands  and  men  that 
instruction  and  knowledge,  which  tend  to  hallow  the 
past,  enrich  the  present,  and  ennoble  the  future. 

We  cannot  reahze  too  fully,  that  in  the  progress 
of  •  civilization,  the  good,  however  antiquated,  is 
sure  to  survive ;  that  each  epoch  has  not  failed  to 
crown  its  successor ;  that  the  Orient  has  becQ  con- 
stantly bestowing  upon  the  Occident.  Therefore,  in 
this  latest  time  and  far  western  civilization,  we  have 


VI        AFTER-TIIOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

received  inestimable  treasures,  and  ought  so  to  ap- 
preciate and  use  them  that  we  ma}'  be  able  and 
desirous  to  give  to  the  world  more  and  better  gratu- 
ities than  we  have  received. 

The  present  form  of  these  After-Thoughts  is  a 
response  to  the  earnest  request  of  many  friends  who 
listened  to  them  in  the  lecture-room.  That  they 
may  yield  pleasure  and  profit  to  readers  and  students 
of  history  and  character,  is  the  sincere  wish  of  the 
Author. 


COITTENTS 


PAGE 

I.  Scotland  AND  Edinburgh 1 

II.  London 33 

III.  France  and  Paris 67 

IV.  Spain  and  Madrid 95 

V.  Germany  and  Berlin 119 

VI.  Switzerland  and  Berne 157 

VII.  Florence,  the  Art  City 189 

VIII.  Modern  and  Ancient  Rome 211 

IX.  Naples  and  its  Buried  Cities 248 

X.  Greece  and  Athens 269 

XI.  Lower  Egypt  and  Cairo 297 

XII.  Modern  and  Ancient  Jerusalem  ....  332 


AFTER-THOUGHTS 


Foreign  Travel 


SCOTLAND  AND  EDINBURGH. 

rXlHE  traveller,  after  riding  upon  the  Atlantic 
-■-  for  nine  days,  or  more,  whether  he  has  en- 
joyed or  disliked  the  voyage,  is  quite  sure  to 
be  delighted  as  he  approaches  the  coast  of  Scot- 
land. The  islands  are  so  green  and  the  bluffs 
of  the  mainland  so  abrupt,  that  he  can  but 
revel  in  pleasure  and  wonderment.  If  he  passes 
in  the  daylight  Giant's  Causeway,  or  the  Isle  of 
Staffa,  he  can  behold  the  grandest  formation  of 
basaltic  rock ;  or,  if  he  can  stop,  so  as  to  enter 
Fingal's  Cave,  he  will  witness  one  of  the  sub- 
limest  cathedrals  in  the  w^orld,  having  old  ocean 
for  its  flooring,  huge  crystals  of  basalt  for  its 
walls,  and  native  fretted  work  for  its  roofing. 
As  he  comes  to  lona,  he  thinks  of  the  long  lino 


2        AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

of  Scotch  kings  buried  here,  and  of  the  sainted 
CoUiniba,  who,  in  the  sixth  century,  and  in  the 
dim  light  of  Christianity,  was  wont  to  teach 
that  lona  is  the  abode  of  the  blest ;  or,  as  his 
steamer  sweeps  round  the  Isle  of  Arran,  he  is 
likely  to  recall  the  legend  of  Robert  Bruce,  tell- 
ing how,  in  1306,  he  crossed  the  sea  from  Arran 
to  the  mountainous  coast  of  Carrick,  that  he 
might  attack  the  English  forces  gathered  there, 
and,  if  possible,  conquer  them.  Having  spent  a 
day  in  reconnoitring,  he  lay  at  night  in  the  barn 
of  a  loyal  cottager,  and  in  the  morning,  as  he 
awoke,  he  saw  a  spider  climbing  a  beam  of  the 
roof.  Soon  the  insect  fell  to  the  ground,  but 
immediately  it  made  the  second  essay  to  ascend. 
This  attracted  the  notice  of  the  hero  who  with 
regret  saw  the  spider  fall  the  second  time.  At 
once,  it  made  the  third  unsuccessful  attempt, 
and  so  continued  till  the  twelfth  failure ;  but 
the  thirteenth  effort  was  a  success ;  the  spider 
reached  the  ridge  of  the  barn,  when  the  king 
sprung  to  his  feet  and  exclaimed,  "  This  des- 
picable insect  has  taught  me  perseverance :  I 
shall  follow  its  example.  Have  I  not  been 
twelve  times  defeated  by  the  enemies'  superior 
force  ?  On  one  fight  more  hangs  the  indepen- 
dence of  my  country."  In  a  few  days  after, 
history  informs  us  that  his  anticipations  were 


SCOTLAND   AND   EDINBURGH.  3 

fully  realized  in  the  glorious  victory  of  Ban- 
nockburn. 

As  the  steamer  enters  the  harbor  of  Green- 
ock, which  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Clyde,  there 
is  joy  on  the  part  of  all  passengers,  even  if 
the  fog  is  thick  and  the  rain  falling  fast,  as  is 
usually  the  case.  Here  it  was  that  the  old 
Scotchman  was  asked,  "Does  it  always  rain 
here  ?  "  "Na,"  he  replied,  "  it  sometimes  snaws." 
The  coast,  so  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  is  bold 
and  picturesque.  The  situation  of  Greenock  is 
beautiful,  and  the  town -presents  an  attractive 
appearance  from  the  sea.  But  its  chief  interest 
springs  from  the  fact  that  it  is  the  birthplace  of 
James  Watt.  Here  it  was  that  in  early  life  he 
watched  the  steam  lifting  the  teakettle  lid,  and 
conceived  the  idea  of  applying  it  so  as  to  drive 
the  locomotive.  Here,  also,  John  Gait,  the 
novelist,  lived  and  died.  What  significance  no- 
ble lives  add  to  the  beauties  of  nature  and  the 
works  of  man  I 

If  the  tide  is  in,  the  steamer  pushes  on  up 
the  Clyde  after  inspection.  Very  soon  the 
foreigner  has  the  opportunity  of  seeing  what 
Scotch  perseverance  and  industry  will  do ;  for 
the  Clyde  which  was  at  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century  an  inferior  stream,  scarcely  nav- 
igable for  the  smallest  crafts,  has  been  widened 


4        AFTER-TIIOUGIITS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

and  deepened,  so  that  ships  of  heavy  burdens 
can  pass  up  its  winding  course  as  far  as  Glas- 
gow. Then,  too,  its  banks  for  miles  are  lined 
with  new  ships  on  the  stocks  in  process  of  com- 
pletion. As  one  comes  within  the  sound  of  the 
clattering  and  whacking  of  ten  thousand  ham- 
mers, as  they  are  welding  together  the  ribs  and 
making  tight  the  keels,  he  ciiu  but  imagine  that 
pandemonium  is  close  at  hand.  At  the  junction 
of  the  Leven  and  the  Clyde,  he  is  surprised  at 
the  abrupt  rising  of  the  Dumbarton  Rock  to  the 
height  of  five  hundred-  and  sixty  feet  above  the 
surface  of  the  river.  The  rock  measures  a  mile 
in  circumference,  and  ends  in  two  peaks.  The 
highest  of  these  is  crowned  with  a  tower  bear- 
ing the  name  of  Wallace's  Tower,  from  the  fact 
that  the  Scottish  hero  was  confined  here.  Still 
higher  up  the  river  is  a  promontory,  on  which 
stands  the  ruins  of  Dunglas  Castle,  and  under 
its  shadow  is  an  appropriate  monument  to  per- 
petuate the  name  of  Henry  Bell  who  first  intro- 
duced steam  navigation  on  the  Clyde.  Farther 
on  is  to  be  seen  a  large  block  of  stone,  marking 
the  spot  where  the  Earl  of  Argyle  was  captured 
after  his  unsuccessful  expedition  from  Holland. 
In  half  an  hour  more  the  steamer  reaches  Ren- 
frew Ferry,  where  Somerled,  Thane  of  Argyle 
and  Lord  of  the  Isles,  in  1164,  fighting  against 


SCOTLAND   AND    EDINBURGH.  D 

Malcolm  IV.,  was  defeated  and  killed.  Now 
the  country  seats  multiply  fast  on  either  side  of 
the  river,  and  in  a  little  while  the  steamer  is 
anchored  by  the  wharves  of  Glasgow.  The 
American,  as  he  enters  the  streets  of  this  city,  is 
reminded  of  New  York.  He  soon  is  made  fully 
aware  that  he  is  in  a  great  metropolis.  As  he 
walks  the  streets  and  examines  the  buildings, 
he  is  impressed  with  the  feeling  of  dura!)ility. 
As  he  observes  the  merchants  and  bankers  be- 
hind their  counters,  and  mechanics  at  their 
benches,  he  is  quickly  persuaded  that  they  are 
bound  to  have  a  good  living,  if  active  brains 
and  busy  hands  can  gain  it.  Glasgow  is  the 
third  city  as  to  population  in  the  United  King- 
dom, and  is  all  the  while  advancing  in  wealth 
and  population.  It  is  surprising  that  such  a 
city  should  have  sprung  up  here  on  the  banks  of 
the  little  Clyde,  twenty  miles  from  the  sea ;  for 
its  natural  advantages  are  surpassed  by  most 
other  commercial  cities.  Its  climate  is  temper- 
ate, but  its  atmosphere  is  excessively  humid. 
Perhaps  it  could  be  said  of  this  place  with 
truth,  that  it  has  more  rainy  than  fair  days  dur- 
ing the  year  ;  yet  it  is  a  healthy  town.  Possibly 
the  oat-porridge  with  which  the  young  blood  is 
so  generally  fed,  has  something  to  do  with  the 
health  of  the  Scotch  people  here,  as  well  as 


O        AFTER-THOUGHTS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

elsewhere.  The  features  and  physiques  of  the 
average  man  or  woman,  as  seen  on  the  street, 
in  the  office,  or  church,  indicate  physical  and 
mental  strength. 

The  shrine  before  which  the  pilgrim  to  this 
city  is  prone  to  worship  first  and  last,  is  its 
Cathedral.  This  is  a  grand  old  Gothic  struc- 
ture built  in  the  reign  of  David  I.  It  wears 
somewhat  of  a  gloomy,  yet  venerated  aspect 
without,  and  within  it  presents  in  the  dim  light 
struggling  through  the  most  exquisitely  painted 
windows,  curiously  sculptured  naves,  aisles,  and 
tribunes,  separated  by  hugest  pillars  and  stout- 
est walls.  As  one  studies  it,  he  must  be 
conscious  it  implies  that  there  is  something 
endurin«:  in  relisrion.  The  mind  that  conceived 
such  a  temple  must  have  had  conceptions  of  "a 
building  not  made  with  hands." 

To  the  east  of  the  Cathedral,  rising  above  it 
several  hundred  feet,  is  the  Kecropolis,  "  the 
silent  city,"  with  its  numerous  columns  and 
hosts  of  stones  telling  where  the  ashes  of  the 
rich  and  poor,  the  learned  and  ignorant,  find  a 
common  resting-place. 

Argyle  is  the  Washington  Street,  and  Bu- 
chanan the  State  Street,  of  Glasgow.  The  new 
Union  Depot  is  a  magnidceut  structure. 
George's   Square   is  especially  interesting,  be- 


SCOTLAJfD   AND   EDINBURGH.  7 

cause   it   is  graced  with  the  statues  of  Scott, 
Peel,  Watt,  Bums,  Clyde,  and  Moore. 

A  foreigner  will  not  be  likely  to  remain  long 
in  company  with  a  real  Scotchman  without 
hearing  the  name  of  Robert  Burns  tenderly" 
spoken  and  some  of  his  sweetest  lays  repeated. 
In  Glasgow  we  are  made  to  feel,  we  are  quite  in 
the  realm  of  the  Ayrshire  poet.  The  people 
are  wont  to  say,  "It  is  but  a  little  way,  only 
forty  miles,  to  his  old  home."  Taking  the  train 
bound  for  the  south,  we  are  soon  buzzins: 
through  emerald  hills  and  across  the  greenest 
meadows.  In  this  autujnn  season,  herds  of 
fattest  oxen  and  flocks  of  monstrous  sheep  are 
feediug  in  the  fields.  Frequeutly  we  spy 
humble  peasant-homes,  and  here  and  there 
catch  glimpses  of  palaces  among  grand  old 
elms,  beeches,  and  sycamores,  where  dukes 
and  nobles  live.  Before  we  scarcely  dream 
of  it,  wo  are  at  the  station  of  Ayr.  Leaving 
the  train,  as  wo  go  forth,  thinking,  walking, 
looking,  we  can  understand,  as  never'  before, 
the  bard's  eulogy,  — 

"  Auld  Ayr,  wham  ne'er  a  towa  surpasses 
For  honest  men  and  bonnie  lasses." 

We  come  to  the  river  whencg  the  town  takes 
its  name,  and  the  "  Twa  Brigs,"  and  the  scene 


8        AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

of  Tarn  0'Shanter*8  wonderful  experience. 
These  span  the  river  not  far  apart.  The 
lower  one,  which  was  the  New  Brig  in  the 
poet's  day,  is  now  used  for  public  travel, 
while  the  Old  Brig  is  fast  going  to  decay. 
The  drowsy  Dunyon  clock  has  been  removed 
to  the  Wallace  Tower  in  the  centre  of  the 
town.  Old  Simpson's  is  still  at  the  end  of  the 
brig,  telling  its  tale  of  Tarn  O'Shanter  and 
Souter  Johnny.  Having  visited  the  places  par- 
ticularly associated  with  the  life  of  Burns,  we 
have  no  desire  to  tjvrry  longer  in  Ayr,  though  it 
is  a  pleasant  seaport  and  mtinufacturing  town  ; 
and  so  we  hie  three  miles  away  to  the  south- 
ward, and  we  find  ourselves  in  front  of  a  little 
thatched  cottage  with  the  inscription  over  the 
central  door,  "Robert  Burns,  the  Ayrshire 
Poet,  was  born  under  this  roof,  the  25th  of 
January,  A.  D.  1759,  died  A.  D.  1796,  aged 
37 i  years."  Passing  into  the  room  where 
the  poet  was  born,  one  can  scarcely  refrain 
from  asking,  is  it  possible  that  Scotland's 
greatest  bard  first  opened  his  eyes  upon 
the  mortal  in  this  humble  house  and  still  more 
humble  kitchen?  How  true  are  the  words 
of  Seneca  that  "the  humble  and  the  lowly 
born  often  receive  true  praise"  !  The  chairs, 
bed,  and  hollows  in  the  stone  flooring  indicate 


SCOTLAND   AND   EDINBURGH.  9 

age  and  long  use.  On  the  walls  in  the  square- 
room,  adjoining,  are  hanging  various  portraits 
of  the  poet,  and  certain  relics  made  particularly 
valuable  because  associated  so  intimately  with 
his  life.  The  nooks  and  table  are  completely 
c6vered  with  signatures.  One  of  the  most 
appropriate  and  significant  memorials  on  the 
walls  of  this  room  is  a  poem  written  by  J.  G. 
Whittier,  commemorativ^e  of  the  genius  and  in- 
influence  of  Burns,  being  neatly  framed  and 
placed  there  by  Hon.  Israel  Washburn.  Every- 
thing about  the  old  home  is  expressive  of  sim- 
plicity and  prudence,  calling  up  the  picture  of 
the  youthful  mother,  when,  in  the  bleak  winter 
with  her  baby-bard  in  her  arms,  she  came  so  near 
being  crushed  by  the  falling  in  of  the  roof,  and 
then  of  being  frozen  to  death,  as  they  were  borne 
throu<]ch  frost  and  snow  in  the  darkest  niojht  to  a 
neighbor's  dwelling.  Here  one  is  reminded  of 
the  fact,  how  the  Burns  family  passed  through 
the  severest  buffetings,  and  could  support  them- 
selves only  by  hard  labor,  practising  the  most 
rigid  economy. 

A  short  distance  from  the  old  home,  close 
upon  the  banks  of  the  Doon,  stands  the  veritable 
antique  kirk  with  its  strange  windows  through 
which  Tam  O'Shanter  stared  "  at  the  winsome 
dancing  party  and  Old  Nick  as  he  fiddled."   Up 


10      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

in  the  gablo  tower  still  hangs  the  ancient  bell, 
with  its  short,  rustv  chain,  danii:Iin£:  so  hiirh  that 
even  ghosts  would  find  it  difficult  to  toll,  as  it 
was  tolled  in  days  of  long  ago.  Girdling  Kirk 
Alloway  is  a  neglected  "city  of  the  dead,'* 
where  are  to  he  seen  the  graves  of  the  poet's 
father  and  mother,  marked  by  stones  erected 
by  himself,  and  inscribed  with  an  epitaph  writ- 
ten with  his  own  pen,  and  expressive  of  the 
tenderest  affection.  Not  far  from  the  kirk,  on  a 
mound  stands  a  modern  mausoleum  of  Ayr- 
shire's bard,  in  the  form  of  a  Grecian  temple 
sixty  feet  high,  having  a  dome  crowned  with  a 
tripod  and  gilded  urn.  On  the  flooring  is  a  beau- 
tiful bust  of  the  poet  cut  in  the  finest  marble. 
On  a  table  near,  are  the  Bible  and  Testmuent 
given  by  Burns  to  his  Highland  Mary  at  their 
last  parting,  and  on  the  fly-leaf  of  each  Burns 
placed  a  Masonic  sign,  adding  these  texts,  "  Ye 
shall  not  swear  by  my  name  falsely ;  I  am  the 
Lord."  "Thou  shall  not  forswear  thyself,  but 
shall  perform  unto  the  Lord  thine  oaths." 

Just  under  the  shadows  of  the  monument  is 
a  rustic  structure  containins:  the  statues  of  Tam 
O'Shanter  and  Souter  Johnny  ;  comical  charac- 
ters, indeed  I  They  look  as  though  they  were 
Avorthy  heroes  for  epic  verse.  FiTty  rods  from 
this  sacred  spot,  partly  under  the  hill,  is  the 


SCOTLAND    AND   EDINBURGH.  11 

auld  brig  over  which  Tarn  drove  his  Meg  at 
full  speed,  with  the  witches  and  warlocks  at  his 
heels,  till  the  keystone  of  the  arch  rocked,  and 
drenching  rain  put  an  end  to  the  furious  chase. 
On  the  brig  may  be  enjoyed  charming  views  of 
the 

"  Banks  and  braes  o'  bonnie  Doon." 

In  the  summer  the  shades  are  so  thick,  the 
breezes  so  cool,  the  water  so  clear,  the  currents 
so  musical,  and  the  birds  so  merry,  how  could 
the  poet  but  sing 

**  Ye  flowery  banks  o'  bonnie  Doon, 
How  can  ye  bloom  sae  fresh  and  fair  "? 

Go  up  or  down  the  Doon,  follow  the  roids 
or  ramble  across  the  fields,  and  you  caniiot  fail 
to  find  the  scenery  most  inviting.  It  was  some- 
where here  that  the  youth  was  running  his  plough 
afield,  and  the  muse  of  his  native  land  fired  his 
heart  and  bid  him  come  and  write  the  sonss  of 
his  nation.  "  Were  Byron  and  Burns  now 
alive,"  said  Hawthorne,  "the  first  would  come 
from  his  ancestral  abbey,  flinging  aside,  though 
unwillingly,  the  inherited  honors  of  a  thousand 
years,  to  take  the  arm  of  the  mighty  peasant 
who  grew  immortal  while  he  stooped  behind 
the  plough."     It  would  seem  that 


12      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

"  A  heaven-directing  voice  was  near  . 
That  bade  him  sing,  and  Scotland  cheer; 
That  muses  bounded  at  his  call 
And  vowed  obedience,  one  and  all." 

If  we  think  of  Chaucer  as  the  poet  of  man- 
ners, Spencer  as  the  poet  of  romance,  Shake- 
speare as  the  poet  of  nature,  Milton  as  the  poet 
of  morality,  we  must  think  of  Burns  as  the  poet 
of  the  heart  and  every-day  life.  Scotland  had 
been  long  waiting  for  just  such  a  bard.  Previ- 
ous to  his  coming,  the  land  had  been  swayed 
by  severest  passions.  Its  history  had  been 
a  bloody  one.  From  earliest  times  wars  had 
raged ;  defeats  and  victories  had  prevailed. 
Terrible  results  were  being  experienced  from 
contentions  between  Scots  and  Picts,  barons  and 
menials,  Protestants  and  Papists,  Covenanters 
and  Liturgists.  The  poor  were  being  ground 
down  by  the  rich,  which  the  clergy  and  the 
schools  were  either  unable,  or  not  disposed  to 
remedy.  If  the  Scotch  intellect  at  the  middle 
of  the  last  century  had  become  keen  and  logical, 
the  heart  was  cold  and  untouched.  So  at  this 
time,  just  when  the  Sotch  people  seemed  to  be 
most  in  need  of  help,  teaching  them  that  all  men 
are  equal  in  the  sight  of  God,  so  far  as  they 
are  equally  true  and  noble,  whether  they  be 
kings  or  peasants,  Robert  Burns  came  from  the 


SCOTLAND   AND   EDINBURGH.  13 

nistic  field  and  thatched  cottasre,  sino:ino^  "Bon-, 
nie  Doon,"  "Auld  Lang  Syne,"  "Scots  wha 
hae,"  "Cotter's  Saturday  Night,"  "Man's  a 
man  for  a'  that,"  leading  oppressed  and  doubt- 
ing minds  at  once  upon  mounts  of  fairest  vision. 
With  them  he  weeps,  with  them  he  laughs,  with 
them  he  works,  and  with  them  he  prays.  To 
the  people  of  Scotland  the  lays  of  Burns  hold 
in  their  hearts  a  place  next  to  the  Bible.  His 
songs  have  become  household  words  throughout 
his  native  land.  The  humble  poet  of  Ayrshire 
has  risen  a  star  of  the  first  magnitude,  to  shine 
forever  from  the  firmament  of  the  past. 

*'His  resting  place  is  hallowed  ground, 
His  worth  and  fame  are  now  unbound; 
Let  piles  of  marble  stand  or  fall, 
His  songs  will  long  outlive  them  all." 

Leaving  these  fairy  scenes,  by  land  and  sea, 
by  steam  and  coach,  we  wander  among  the 
Highlands  of  Scotia.  We  find  the  scenery 
wild  and  the  country  sparsely  settled.  The 
sides  of  the  mountains  are  purpled  with  heather 
and  the  valleys  are  spotted  with  numerous  lakes. 
The  grouse  and  the  deer  revel  in  these  romantic 
lands.  The  long-haired  cattle,  shaggy-coated 
ponies,  and  dark -nosed  sheep,  roam  at  pleasure 
in  many  of  these  rude  places.  Here  once  dwelt 
the  warlike  Celts  and  Picts.    Their  descendants 


14      AFTEU-TIIOUGIITS    OF   FOREIGN    TRAVEL. 

are  still  possessors  of  the  land.  They  glory  as 
of  old  in  their  stern  pedigree  and  clannish  cus- 
toms. No  lan£rua<?e  to  them  is  so*  sweet  as  the 
Gaelic  tongue;  no  music,  so  charming  as  that 
of  the  Scotch  bagpipe.  In  the  little  hamlets 
and  peasant  districts  the  people  are  poorly 
housed,  scantily  fed,  and  slovenly  clothed.  At 
Oban,  Inverness,  Wick,  and  other  larger  towns, 
an  entirely  different  order  of  things  exists. 
The  people  arc  moved  by  the  spirit  of  the  age. 
They  believe  in  canals,  railroads,  and  tele- 
graphs, and  take  a  decided  interest  in  schools 
and  churches.  Their  roads,  bridges,  and  tun- 
nels plainly  show  that  they  are  enterprising 
and  industrious. 

Of  all  the  lakes  in  Scotland  perhaps  Lochs 
Lomond  and  Katrine  take  the  lead.  It  is  true 
they  are  not  clothed  like  Grassmere  and  Der- 
wontwater  with  the  classic  associations  of 
Wordsworth  and  Southey  ;  or  like  Leman  and 
Luzerne,  with  historical  pictures  of  Bonnivard 
and  Tell;  or  like  Conio  and  Maggiore,  with 
luscious  vines  and  marl>le  villas :  still  they  are 
rich  with  legends  of  Rob  Koj^  and  Helen  Mc- 
Gregor. They  are  constantly  guarded  by  Bens 
Nevis,  Lomond,  and  Venue,  some  of  the  highest 
mountains  in  Great  Britain.  Here  and  there 
jagged  rocks  and  threatening  cliffs  hang  close 


SCOTLAND   AND   EDINBURGH.  15 

over  the  glassy  waters.  As  one  is  borne  on 
steamer  along  their  winding  course,  he  experi- 
ences a  stran^re  interchanii^e  and  comminsrlinof  of 
the  beautiful  and  the  sublime.  The  bracing  air 
and  stirring  views  are  sure  to  infuse  the  heart 
with  fullest  life.  He  can  no  longer  wonder  that 
chiefs  and  vassals  have  loved  this  land,  that 
clans  have  fought  for  it,  and  even  died  for  it. 
These  waters  abound  in  fish,  and  at  seasons 
are  all  alive  with  sea-birds.  It  is  not  strange 
that  Scott,  with  his  line,  gun,  and  dogs,  should 
often  have  been  lured  hither  for  sport,  and  at 
the  same  time  should  have  gathered  up  so  many 
reminiscences  of  startling  events  with  which  to 
give  striking  colors  to  his  word-pictures.  These 
lakes  are  sure  to  be  the  summer  resort  of  tour- 
ists who  are  fond  of  the  natural  and  historic, 
the  placid  and  the  grand. 

Aberdeen  with  its  institutions  of  learning, 
Dundee  with  its  extensive  docks  and  remark- 
iible  bridge  across  the  Tay,  Stirlino^  with  its 
lofty  castle  and  hoary  abbey,  as  a  central  set- 
ting in  the  most  enchanting  landscape  picture, 
and  Melrose  with  its  famous  abbey  and  Eildon 
Hills,  offer  special  attractions  to  all  who  would 
know  the  people  and  the  civilization  of  Scot- 
land; but  the  city  of  all  others  in  this  robust 
land  is  Edinburgh. 


16      AFTER-THOUGHTS    OF   FOREIGN    TRAVEL. 

It  is  hard  to  realize  that  where  now  this  cul- 
tured city  stands  was  once  the  densest  wil- 
derness where  the  elk  sported,  the  wild  boar 
revelled,  and  the  wolf  prowled  unmolested. 
When  man  first  came  here  is  uncertain.  No 
doubt  the  Castle  Rock,  towering  so  high  above 
the  surrounding  country,  first  attracted  his  no- 
tice. Here  he  must  have  felt  that  nature  had 
made  for  him  a  stronghold  on  which  he  could 
be  safe  against  the  attacks  of  wild  beasts  and 
savage  men.  As  early  as  the  eighth  century,  it 
is  known,  there  was  quite  a  settlement  here, 
made  up  of  little  houses  with  thatched  roofs. 
It  must  have  been  inhabited  then  by  some  of 
the  brave  old  Scots  and  Picts.  The  promise 
must  have  been  slight,  indeed,  that  life  would 
blossom  from  this  pristine  rudeness  into  the 
fairest  fruitage.  But  in  King  David's  day  it 
had  grown  into  a  burgh,  and  in  the  time  of 
Robert  Bruce  it  was  being  regarded  a  respect- 
able city.  About  the  time  Columbus  discov- 
ered the  New  World,  it  became  the  home  of 
the  famous  Stuarts,  and  had  grown  into  a 
walled  town ;  and  before  the  first  settlement 
had  been  made  in  America,  it  had  run  up  a 
long  line  of  kings ;  and  before  the  Pilgrims 
stepped  upon  Plymouth  shore,  it  was  seem- 
inijly  regarded  a  finished  city,  for  its  limited 


SCOTLAND  AND  EDINBURGH.        17 

enclosure  had  become  crowded  with  buildings , 
and  the  rulinijs  of  its  Jameses  and  Charleses 
were  to  the  end  that  its  walls  would  not  be  ex- 
tended. But  its  ramparts  were  at  length  beaten 
down,  and  its  boundaries  enlarged,  so  that 
when  Samuel  Johnson  looked  upon  it,  he  pro- 
nounced it  "an  imposing  metropolis";  so,  too, 
it  looked  to  Oliver  Goldsmith,  and  afterwards  to 
Robert  Bums ;  and  still  more  striking  is  its  ap- 
pearance to-day,  for  it  has  become  a  city  of 
two  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  being  dis- 
tinguished for  its  university,  academies,  public 
and  charity  schools.  It  appears  to  be  clothed 
with  a  classic  air.  Poets  and  geniuses  have 
been  born  and  educated  here.  The  whole 
world  has  been  greatly  benefited  through  its 
intellectual  development.  The  fact  that  it  has 
produced  and  schooled  David  Hume,  Sir  Walter 
Scott,  and  graduated  from  its  university  Thomas 
Carlyle,  is  sufficient  to  render  it  forever  memo- 
rable, and  a  place  to  be  sought  after  by  all  who 
have  been  blessed  by  its  gifted  minds. 

The  site  on  which  this  city  stands  can  scarcely 
be  surpassed,  if  equalled.  The  city  of  the  Cae- 
sars crowning  the  seven  hills,  or  Athens  in  the 
time  of  Pericles  and  Phidias,  belting  its  Acrop- 
olis so  graced  with  temples  and  art-w(mders, 
or  the  city  of  Constantine  set  upon  its  many 


18     AFTER-THOCGHTS   OF   FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

hills,  could  not  have  possessed  the  romance 
and  grandeur  of  Edinburgh.  Here  plaiu,  wa- 
ter, hill,  valley,  cliff,  crag,  and  mountaiu,  are 
strangely  commingled.  It  is  evident  that  vol- 
canic force,  glacial  abrasion,  and  aqueous  action, 
did  their  utmost  to  render  this  place  wildly  sub- 
lime and  beautiful.  As  man  has  laid  claim  to 
it,  he  has  taken  advantage  of  the  natural,  so  as 
not  to  mar  the  gifts  of  earth,  water,  and  sky, 
but  rather  add  to  their  attraction  and  pictur- 
esqueness.  It  covers  over  many  acres,  and 
would  require  many  ox-hides  of  Virgil's  time, 
cut  iuto  fiuest  strings,  to  girt  its  circumference. 
If  its  climate  is  somewhat  rigorous,  it  is  bouud 
to  improve,  and  be  sought  after  by  the  scholar 
and  tourist.  To  see  Edinburgh  one  must  have 
weeks  there,  and  be  all  the  time  astir  at  that. 
Looking  upon  it  is  like  looking  through  a  kalei- 
doscope,—  no  two  views  are  ever  the  same  ;  so 
that  the  more  it  is  studied,  the  more  it  is  won- 
dered at  and  admired.  Calton  Hill  is  the  com- 
manding outlook  of  the  new  town.  This  height 
is  verily  an  acropolis,  adorned  with  its  Doric 
columns  and  majestic  monuments  to  the  noble 
dead.  It  rises  some  three  hundred  feet  above 
the  sea.  When  the  day  is  clear,  it  affords  an 
extended  view  of  the  Foi-th,  spotted  with  its 
sails  and  smoking  stacks;  of  the  hills  of  Fife, 


SCOTLA^^)   AND   EDINBUEGH.  19 

throwing  off  their  constantly  varying  shadows ; 
far  to  the  north  may  be  caught  glimpses  of  the 
Grampian  Hills,  reddened,  perchance,  with 
blooming  heather ;  to  the  west  are  the  Pent- 
lands,  in  summer  green,  with  smiling  fields  quite 
to  their  summits  ;  while  a  little  to  the  south  rise 
Salisbury  Crags,  presenting  their  formidable 
breastworks  ;  and  a  little  farther  on  towers  aloft 
Arthur's  seat  swnying  its  sceptre  over  all  be- 
low. As  one  looks  from  Calton  Hill  upon  the 
new  town,  if  he  has  the  least  bit  of  poetry  in 
him,  he  must  feel  as  though  he  were  reading  a 
poem  cut  in  stone.  The  style  of  architecture 
clearly  shows  that  modern  minds  have  been 
made  familiar  with  the  best  works  of  beauty 
and  taste  in  all  the  past.  The  peculiar  charac- 
teristics of  the  skilled  and  cultured  Doric  and 
Corinthian,  the  Roman  and  Goth,  the  Norman 
and  Saxon,  are  repeated  here.  As  the  eye  runs 
across  from  the  new  to  the  old  town,  how  the 
buildings  seem  to  rise  and  sink  and  rise  !  They 
are  singularly  lifted  one  above  another,  as  though 
they  had  fallen  together  by  chance,  yet  in  per- 
fect order.  Look  upon  this  scene  in  the  even- 
ing, after  the  gas-jets  are  fired  on  the  streets, 
and  the  Avindows  everywhere  are  flecked  with 
streaming  lights.  No  fairy  tale*  could  paint  a 
picture  more  enchanting  than  this.     Away  down 


20      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

in  the  valley,  away  up  on  the  hill,  because  of 
their  distance,  lights  dimly  flicker;  and  here 
and  there,  in  large  blocks  of  buildings,  rows  of 
wavy  tapers  will  ascend  one  above  another,  even 
ei^ht  or  nine  stories.  Let  this  twinklin<]:  field 
be  overhung  by  an  unclouded  sky,  thickl}'  sown 
with  burning  stars  reflecting  the  radiance  of 
heaven,  and  you  have  such  a  picture  as  is  no- 
where else  to  be  witnessed  and  enjoyed. 

AValking  along  Princes  Street  in  warm  weather 
from  Calton  Hill,  the  eye  is  delighted  with  ma- 
jestic and  beautiful  public  buildings,  hotels,  and 
stores  on  the  right  hand,  while  on  the  left 
are  unique  gardens  with  greenest  plats  and 
walks,  bordered  with  variegated  pansies,  gera- 
niums, and  mignonette.  On  the  mound  dividing 
the  gardens  stands  the  Royal  Institute,  crowded 
with  works  of  modern  and  ancient  art.  The 
buildings  themselves  will  bear  careful  study; 
fashioned  after  Grecian  models,  grim-eyed 
sphinxes  are  coldly  looking  from  the  roof,  while 
on  the  ridge  over  the  main  entrance  is  a  colos- 
sal sitting  statue  of  the  Queen  in  her  robes  of 
state.  In  these  gardens  are  statues  of  Ramsay, 
the  poet;  of  Wilson,  better  known  as  Christo- 
pher North ;  of  Black,  the  Scotch  historian  ;  of 
Livingstone,  the  African  explorer ;  and  the  most 
inviting  of  all  is  the  cinicial  Gothic  spire,  resting 


SCOTLAND   AND   EDINBURGH.  21 

on  four  grand  English  arches,  sei-ving  as  a  canopy 
to  a  statue  of  Sir  Walter  Scott.  Some  forty 
characters  described  in  the  great  novelist's  writ- 
ings are  represented  iu  stone  and  occupy  con- 
spicuous niches  in  this  monument  which  rises  to 
the  heisrht  of  two  hundred  feet.  Throuo:h  a 
deep  natural  depression  in  these  grounds  may 
be  seen,  every  now  and  then,  whiffs  and  folds  of 
smoke  ascending  from  the  screaming  engines  as 
they  burst  out  of  the  tunnels  and  rush  through 
the  valley.  When  the  sun  shines,  mingling 
shadows  are  incessantly  falling  upon  these  gar- 
dens from  Castle  Rock  which  guards  them  on  the 
south.  Though  it  rises  so  abruptly,  and  its  sides 
are  so  jagged,  yet  children  play  all  the  day  with 
safety  at  its  base.  In  spite  of  the  trees  hugging 
its  spurs,  and  mosses  sticking  in  its  clefts,  it  or- 
dinarily presents  a  cold,  barren  face  to  the  new 
city  ;  but  as  the  rains  fall  and  the  sun  shines,  its 
sides  look  as  though  they  had  been  bathed  afresh 
in  a  sea  of  emerald. 

George  Street,  running  parallel  to  Princes, 
forms  the  ridge  of  the  new  town.  This  is  ter- 
minated at  one  end  by  Charlotte  Square  which 
contains  the  equestrian  statue  of  Prince  Albert, 
grouped  about  with  the  royal  fiimily.  It  is  a 
work  happily  conceived  and  tastefully  executed. 
On  this   street,  too,  stand  imposing  slatues  of 


22   AFTER-THOUGHTS  OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

Dr.  Chalmers,  George  IV.,  and  William  Pitt; 
and  at  the  other  terminus  is  St.  Andrew's  Sqnaie, 
from  whose  centre  towers  the  lofty  fluted  col- 
umn of  the  first  Viscount  Melville.  The  new 
town  extends  down  to  the  Frith  of  Forth,  spread- 
ing over  a  large  area.  Here  we  find  the  Royal 
Gymnasium  and  the  Botanic  Gardens,  which 
speak  well  for  the  city.  As  we  examine  the  lay 
of  the  land,  the  water,  and  the  buildings,  we 
are  reminded,  in  many  regards,  of  old  Athens 
stretching  far  away  to  the  Bay  of  Piraeus. 

Though  the  casual  observer  may  be  most  in- 
terested in  the  new,  the  lover  of  history  will 
seek  the  old  town,  and  especially  the  street 
leading  from  the  castle  to  Holy  rood  Palace. 
These  extremities  are  most  intimately  connected 
Avith  the  life  of  IMary,  Queen  of  Scots :  in  the 
latter  she  was  unfortunately  married  to  Darn- 
ley,  and  in  the  former  she  gave  birth  to  James 
VI.  of  Scotland.  Looking  at  the  castle,  it  aj)- 
pears  as  though  chiefs  and  warriors  within  its 
walls,  Avith  drawl)ridge  up  and  portcullis  down, 
might  frown  upon  the  mightiest  external  foes 
with  insolence  and  perfect  composure.  If 
David  I.  did  build  Holyrood  Palace,  that  it 
might  be  a  royal  place,  it  nevertheless  has  been 
a  bloody  one.  Surely  the  crowns  of  kings  and 
the  palms  of  waiTiors   have   been   thickly  set 


SCOTLAND  AND  EDINBURGH.        23 

with  thorns.     Two  centuries  ago  on  this  street 
dwelt   dukes,    scholars,   and   aristocrats.     The 
buildings  remain  very  much  as  they  were,  but 
how  changed  the  population !     As  wealth  and- 
refinement  went  out,  wretchedness  and  poverty 
came   in ;  so   that,  from   the   windows  thickly 
sown  all  up  and  down  the  sides  of  the  buildings, 
where  beauty  and  prosperity  were  almost  con- 
stantly gazing  into  this  narrow  street  thronged 
with  moving  crowds,  squalidness  and  adversity 
now  kill  time  by  viewing  all  through  the  day 
and  far  into  the  night  swarms  of  ragged  chil- 
dren, barefooted  women,  and  beer-faced  men. 
Over  the  doorways,  in  the  wynds,  and  on  pro- 
jections, are  to  be  seen  armorials  and  signs  of 
olden  times  and  better  days.     On    the  upper 
part  of  this  street  are  the  Parliament  buildings, 
full  of  rich  memories  and  remarkable  transac- 
tions ;  at  present  they  are  used  for  the  Court  of 
Sessions  and  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  king- 
dom..    In  them  Argyle  and  hundreds  of  other 
brave  covenanters  were  consigned  to  death  with- 
out any  form  of  trial.     Walking  through  the 
halls,  many  notables  of  the  shadowy  past  look 
out  from  the  marbles,  or  down  from  the  canvas. 
Partly   in    front    of    these    stands    St.    Giles' 
Church,    in    Avhich,    long    ago,    John     Knox 
preached  so  powerfully  that  his  hearers  feared 


24      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

lest  his  pulpit  should  fly  in  pieces.  It  was  in 
this  church  also,  not  long  after,  that  Jenny 
Geddes  threw  her  stool  at  the  priest  because  ho 
was  reading  his  pra3^ers.  From  this  street  wo 
can  look  through  the  window  and  see  where 
John  Knox  sat  while  he  was  writing  his  "His- 
tory of  the  Reformation."  Through*  it,  Mont- 
rose, of  aspect  proud,  and  fire  flashing  from  his 
eyes  towards  his  enemies,  whs  led  with  a  rope 
round  his  neck  to  the  phico  of  execution. 
Hume  sought  it  often  while  he  was  writing  his 
history,  and  Scott  loitered  about  it,  that  he 
might  secure  all  the  facts  of  its  fossilized  his- 
tory ;  and  still  the  lover  of  antiquity  can  scarce- 
ly walk  it  uow-a-days  without  starting  up  some 
new  ghost  of  bygone  experience.  Near  the 
lower  end  of  this  street  is  the  Canongate  burial- 
ground,  where  may  be  seen  the  tombs  and 
graves  of  Dugald  Stewart,  Adam  Smith,  and 
Robert  Ferguson,  who  have  enriched  the  world 
w^ith  their  rhetoric,  philosophy,  political  econ- 
omy, and  poetry. 

Under  the  shadow  of  the  old  castle  on  the 
south,  some  four  or  five  hundred  feet  below,  is 
Grassmarket,  where,  in  the  middle  of  the  seven- 
teenth century,  a  hundred  bi*ave  covenanters 
were  put  to  death  because  they  could  not  submit 
to-  the  use  of  a  foreign  ritual  in  their  worship. 


SCOTLAND  AND  EDINBURGH.  25 

In  all  other  regards  they  would  bow  to  the  rule 
and  dictates  of  an  alien  king ;  but  the  rights  of 
conscience  they  would  enjoy,  if  they  had  to  die 
for  them.  Still  farther  to  the  south  and  west  is 
Greyfriars  Church,  around  which  history  lingers 
with  wonder  and  reverence.  It  was  built  in 
1612,  and  it  was  here  in  1663  that  the  first  sig- 
natures to  the  National  Covenant  were  append- 
ed. It  is  surrounded  by  a  churchyard,  in  which 
may  be  seen  many  a  tombstone  telling  of  Scot- 
land's distinguished  dead ;  but  the  most  inter- 
esting tomb  is  that  of  the  martyr-covenanters 
who  were  executed  in  Edinburgh  during  the 
reigns  of  Charles  II.  and  James  II.  The  ivy 
is  likely  to  flourish  here,  and  pilgrims  for  the 
ages  to  come  will  visit  this  sacred  shrine  and 
revive  the  memory  of  the  hundred  heroes  whose 
ashes  to-day  are  sacredly  guarded. 

Not  fiir  from  Greyfriars  is  Heriot  Hospital 
which  is  a  great  blessing  to  the  city.  It  is 
named  after  Geor<2:e  Heriot  who  was  "goldsmith 
to  Queen  Anne  and  James  VI.  When  he  died 
he  left  a  large  fortune  to  the  city  of  Edinburgh 
for  the  purpose  of  establishing  a  school  within 
its  limits  for  educating  orphan  boys  free  of  ex- 
pense. The  present  substantial  building  was 
completed  in  1659,  and  a  school  was  opened  to 
receive  boys  from  the  ages  of  seven  to  ten,  that 


2Q      ATTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

they  might  enjoy  the  best  educational,  social, 
and  religious  advantages,  till  they  should  be- 
come fourteen  years  of  age,  when  they  would 
be  put  to  some  trade,  and  still  the  institution 
would  continue  to  assist  them  to  an  apprentice 
fee  of  fifty  dollars  annually  for  the  term  of  five 
years.  It  now  supports  some  four  hundred  stu- 
dents, and  has  sent  out  large  numbers  in  the 
past  well  fitted  for  a  successful  life-work.  The 
bequest  was  so  invested,  as  to  increase  rapidly 
the  yearly  revenue,  and  in  1837  the  income  was 
sufficient  to  support  other  schools,  and  several 
were  established  in  dilFerent  parts  of  the  city 
for  schooling  indigent  boys  and  girls  free  of 
tuition ;  so  that  now  more  than  four  thousand 
children  are  being  richly  blessed  by  the  munifi- 
cence of  George  Heriot. 

Beyond  the  confines  of  the  old  town  to  the 
west,  the  city  is  rapidly  increasing.  In  fact, 
some  of  the  most  desirable  residences  are  here 
to  be  found.  It  is  delightful  about  the  Meadows. 
No  doubt,  the  present  population  have  not  a 
little  of  the  old  Gothic,  Saxon,  Norman,  and 
Celtic  blood  coursing  their  veins,  still  they  are 
proud  to  be  known  now  as  Scotchmen.  If  they 
are  not  equal  to  England  numerically,  they  de- 
sire Scotland  to  be  regarded,  at  least,  half  of 
Great  Britain,  and  Edinburgh  the  light  of  Scotia 


SCOTLAND  AND  EDINBURGH.        27 

and  the  most  attractive  city  of  the  world.  "  They 
would  have  it  a  Weiraar  without  a  Goethe,  and 
a  Florence  without  the  sunshine  of  Italy."  They 
are  not  given  to  sham,  and  so  they  are  striving 
to  have  a  city  worthy  of  lasting  fame  in  the 
way  of  classic  taste  and  romantic  beauty.  As 
you  observe  the  people  on  the  thoroughfares, 
you  see  no  rushing  and  driving,  as  in  New  York, 
but  a  meditative  movement,  as  though  they  had 
just  been  reading  the  Scotsman  and  were  not 
altogether  absorbed  in  business.  Their  men  and 
women,  it  would  seem,  intend  to  spend  more  or 
less  time  each  day  in  the  open  air.  As  nature 
and  art  have  been  munificent  in  scattering  gar- 
dens, squares,  parks,  and  meadows  through  the 
city,  they  enjoy  wonderful  advantages  of  the 
rural  and  civic  combined.  This  fact  has  had 
much  to  do,  no  doubt,  in  moulding  their  charac- 
ters, making  them  desirous  to  have  a  town  strong 
and,  at  the  same  time,  unique  and  beautiful.  But 
this  must  not  imply  that  the  Scotch  are  stylish 
in  their  attire,  or  express  special  taste  in  the  cut 
of  the  coat,  or  the  color  of  the  dress  ;  as  a  rule, 
it  is  quite  the  contrary.  Perhaps  they  imagine 
cultivated  minds  and  tastefully  adorned  phy- 
siques are  not  compatible.  In  their  movements 
they  are  far  from  being  awkward  ;  their  step  is 
firm,  and  the  swing  of  the  arm  direct.     In  their 


28      AFTER-TIIOUGnTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

address  they  arc  frank  and  positive,  yet  particu- 
larly obliging  in  their  intercourse.  They  have 
modelled  their  church-editices  and  school  build- 
ings after  the  best  Grecian  and  Gothic  patterns 
externally,  but  within  they  have  evidently  con- 
structed according  to  their  own  notions,  guard- 
ing against  comfortable  sittings,  possibly  be- 
lieving in,  and,  therefore,  wishing  to  enforce  the 
idea  that  the  way  to  religion  and  knowledge  is 
verily  hard.  Church-going  people  and  students 
in  America  would  regard  it  severe  treatment  to 
sit  on  flat,  bare  boards,  as  they  do  here ;  never- 
theless, they  do  not  complain  or  express  a  wish 
to  have  it  otherwise.  Those  brought  up  on  the 
Scotch  catechism  and  oatmeal  porridge  are 
fitted,  perchance,  for  almost  any  hardship. 

Edinburgh  is  truly  a  city  of  schools.  Her 
citizens  regard  their  University  as  scarcely 
second  to  any  other.  Its  buildings  are  in  the 
old  town  and  wear  a  venerable  appearance. 
This  institution  has  made  a  good  record,  and  is 
endeavoring  to  keep  pace  Avith  the  progess  of 
the  age.  In  the  departments  of  theology,  art, 
medicine,  and  law,  it  numbers  at  present  more 
than  two  thousand  students.  It  is  well  supplied 
with  museums,  libraries,  and  facilities  for  illus- 
trating the  sciences  of  chemistry,  physics,  as- 
tronomy, botany,  zoology,  and  geology.     The 


SCOTLAND   AND   EDINBURGH.  29 

present  faculty  is  regarded  strong  and  efficient, 
still  no  one  professor  is  singled  out  as  remark- 
ably clever.  Its  friends  glory  in  its  past,  and 
delight  in  repeating  on  stone  and  canvas  the 
illustrious  names  of  those  professors  who  were 
brilliant  lights  while  living,  and,  now  that  they 
are  translated,  reflect  the  radiance  of  heaven. 
They  seem  always  pleased  to  speak  the  names 
of  Munro,  Ferguson,  Stewart,  Blair,  Wilson, 
Lee,  and  Sir  William  Hamilton. 

Edinburgh  High  School  has  a  fame  as  broad 
as  that  of  Rugby  or  Eaton.  Academies  for  both 
sexes,  and  public  schools  of  all  grades,  from  the 
ragged  to  the  high  school,  are  numerous,  so 
that  all  the  children  from  six  to  fourteen  years 
old  can  be  accommodated,  having  room  besides 
for  a  large  number  of  youths  coming  from  other 
parts  of  Scotland,  and  even  from  foreign  lands, 
to  be  educated  in  this  classic  city.  In  the  fall 
and  winter,  Edinburgh  may  be  called  with  pro- 
priety the  city  of  students.  It  is  a  pleasure  to 
see  the  young  men  and  women,  lads  and  lasses, 
as  they  daily  crowd  the  streets  on  the  way  to 
aq^d  from  their  recitations.  Their  step  is  quick 
and  elastic,  and  their  fiices  are  blooming  with 
health.  Though  so  full  of  fresh  life  and  joy, 
yet  they  conduct  themselves  with  the  utmost 
propriety. 


30      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

Probably  no  other  city  io  the  world,  accord- 
ing to  its  population,  has  so  many  libraries  and 
books  as  Edinburgh.  The  people  here  are 
generally  given  to  reading,  and  in  the  winter 
they  largely  attend  lectures,  scientific  and  liter- 
ary, given  before  different  institutions. 

Because  of  the  opportunities  for  education, 
this  city  is  much  sought  after  by  those  desirous 
of  improvement ;  for  this  reason  many  scholars 
and  professional  men  who  can  afford  it,  come 
here  and  settle  for  life.  Here  they  can  enjoy 
the  present  and  the  past,  the  country  and  the 
town,  as  possibly  nowhere  else.  If  one  is  at 
leisure  in  this  city,  he  may  feel  he  is  gaining 
information  all  the  while,  for  the  castle  is  con- 
stantly looking  down  through  its  gray  old  his- 
tory, and  Holyrood  is  always  sending  up  its 
enchanting  messages  from  long  departed  kings 
and  queens ;  the  lights  and  shades  of  fjible  are 
ever  floating  around  Arthur's  Seat,  and  fruitful 
memories  incessantly  brood  over  Calton  Hill. 
If  one  would  have  a  chansre,  let  him  ride  out  a 
few  miles,  and  he  can  view  the  exquisitely  beau- 
tiful Eoslyn  Chapel,  or  the  grim,  crumbling  cas- 
tle close  by  ;  or,  let  him  Avalk  through  the  laby- 
rinthian  paths  to  Hawthornden,  and  see  where 
Kobert  Bruce  was  secreted,  and  Drummond 
courted  his  muse.     Let  him  sail  down  the  har- 


SCOTLAND   AND   EDINBURGH.  31 

bor  a  few  miles  and  he  can  catch  the  echoes  of 
the  groans  of  those  unfortunate  prisoners  who 
were  unjustly  shut  up  in  the  huge  Bass  Rock  ;  or 
let  him  cross  to  Fife,  and  he  will  be  able  to  dis- 
cover many  interesting  relics  of  the  Jameses.  Let 
him  go  to  Merchiston  and  he  can  learn  of  Na- 
pier while  he  was  inventing  his  logarithms.  Let 
him  take  the  morning  train  and  ride  thirty-eight 
miles  through  a  most  interesting  country  and 
stop  at  Melrose,  and  he  can  visit  the  quaint 
mouldering  abbey  there  ;  then  riding  three  miles 
to  Abbotsford,  he  can  look  upon  the  curiously 
constructed  and  capacious  residence  of  Sir 
Walter  Scott,  shaded  by  a  forest  and  facing  the 
Tweed.  Within  he  can  witness  the  choice  li- 
brary of  the  poet  and  scholar,  the  table  on  which 
the  Waverlc3''s  were  written,  the  rooms  where 
the  great  man  lived  and  died,  the  museum  and 
armory,  where  are  gathered  up  so  many  treas- 
ures speaking  of  the  good  man's  life.  Then 
he  can  roam  through  the  fields,  the  woods, 
and  along:  the  banks  of  the  Tweed  where  Sir 
Walter  was  wont  to  tread,  thinking,  admiring, 
and  enjoying  so  much  the  works  of  nature,  and 
communion  with  the  Maker  of  them  all.  After 
this  he  can  ride  four  or  five  miles  to  Dryburgh 
Abbey,  and  examine  those  ivied  ruins  in  which 
sleep  the  ashes  of  Edinburgh's  most  honored  and 


32      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

beloved  son.  From  this  sacred  tomb  he  can  re- 
turn to  the  station  and  to  the  city  the  same  day. 
So  let  one  turn  in  whatsoever  way  he  will  in 
this  town,  matters  of  interest  are  sure  to  come 
up.  If  he  should  prefer  to  remain  indooi*s,  and 
he  is  in  a  mood  for  solid  reading,  the  North  Drlt- 
iah  JRevieWf  Blackwood's  Magazine  and  Cham- 
bers's Works,  may  be  dropped  at  his  door, 
fresh  from  the  Edinburgh  press.  Edinburgh  is 
the  Athens  of  modern  Europe. 


n. 

LONDON. 

4  T  the  time  Athens  was  in  a  decline,  Jeru- 
-^-^  sal  em  apparently  strong,  Alexandria  flour- 
ishing, and  Rome  mighty,  a  rude  and  inferior 
city  was  standing  on  the  river  Thames,  about 
sixty  miles  from  the  sea.  It  was  inhabited 
by  Britons ;  whence  this  rude  people  came,  it 
can  only  be  conjectured.  However,  the  pre- 
vailing opinion  is  that  they  early  emigrated 
from  the  land  of  the  Norsemen.  Whatever 
may  have  been  their  origin,  they  were  a  brave 
and  vigorous  race. 

Half  a  century  before  the  Christian  era,  as 
Eome  was  fast  becoming  "mistress  of  the 
world,"  Julius  Caesar  with  eight  thousand  sol- 
diers landed  on  British  soil.  The  great  general 
was  not  a  welcome  visitor  to  this  land  ;  and,  on 
account  of  severe,  hostilities,  he  soon  withdrew 
from  it.  But  a  year  afterwards,  with  greatly 
increased  forces,  he  entered  it,  expecting  to 
find  "  rivers  of  pearls  "  and  richest  treasures ; 


34      AFTER-TIIOUGIITS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

still,  in  all  this  he  was  sadly  disappointed,  and 
soon  left  the  country  in  troubled  disgust. 

During  this  time  the  Roman  power  was 
waxing  strong  and  still  more  ambitious.  So, 
some  five  decades  after  the  stars  had  shone 
strangely  bright  upon  the  Judoean  hills,  and 
prophecy  had  been  fulfilled,  once  more  the 
Romans  entered  this  land  and  subdued  the 
hardy  Britons,  capturing  their  Lon-Lyn,  signi- 
fying City  of  Ships. 

Only  in  imagination  can  we  picture  that  an- 
cient town,  made  up  of  wooden  huts  and  mud 
hovels,  without  any  walls,  bank,  couil-house, 
church,  or  school-edifice.  The  people  were  chid 
in  skins  and  the  crudest  materials,  living  upon 
the  wild  productions  of  the  country.  Their 
ships  were  no  more  than  rafts  and  log  ca- 
noes. Such  was  London  when  the  Romans 
captured  it. 

The  old,  how  unlike  the  new  !  The  London 
of  to-day,  who  can  iiithom  it,  or  describe  it? 
One  might  as  consistently  undertake  to  exhibit 
the  Atlantic  Ocean  from  top  to  bottom.  It  is 
the  largest  city  the  world  has  ever  seen,  already 
swarming  with  nearly  four  millions  of  human 
souls,  and  constantly  increasing  in  population. 
It  occupies  an  area  of  a  hundred  and  fifty 
square  miles,  having  a  circumference  of  more 


LONDON-.  35 

than  forty  miles.  It  numbers  some  four  hun- 
dred thousand  houses ;  it  has  nine  thousand 
streets  and  lanes,  about  twelve  thousand  police- 
men, some  eight  thousand  surgeons  and  physi- 
cians, nine  hundred  preachers,  seven  thousand 
barristers  and  attorneys,  more  than  a  hundred 
and  twenty  thousand  shopkeepers  who  carry 
on  more  than  two  thousand  different  kinds  of 
business.  It  is  estimated  that  a  hundred  thou- 
sand people  enter  the  city  every  morning  and 
leave  it  every  night.  It  seems  almost  a  mystery 
how  such  a  city  should  have  sprung  up  on  an 
island  situated  so  far  north,  with  a  soil  and  cli- 
mate uninviting.  Still,  on  examination  it  be- 
comes evident,  London  enjoys  not  a  few  natural' 
advantages  Its  temperature  does  not  vary  to 
extreme  heat  or  cold.  It  stands  upon  a  site 
slightly  diversified  as  to  surface,  gradually 
inclining  to  the  Thames,  having  a  loose  soil,  so 
that  it  is  readily  drained.  The  Thames  with 
the  flow  and  ebb  of  the  tide  affords  good  oppor- 
tunities for  commerce.  Comparing  its  mortal- 
ity with  that  of  other  large  cities,  it  ranks  as 
one  of  the  most  healthy.  It  is  true,  it  has  suf- 
fered at  several  different  periods  from  destruc- 
tive plagues  ;  the  same  is  true  of  Rome,  Paris, 
and  New  York.  It  is  said,  there  is  a  tonic  in 
the  atmosphere  of  England  the  year  round.    No 


36      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

doubt  the  robustness  .'ind  activity  of  the  people 
are  due  in  no  small  degree  to  this  ftict.  Cer- 
tainly something  has  stimulated  them  in  body 
and  mind,  so  that  they  have  been  able  to  do 
more  for  modern  civilization  than  any  other 
nation.  For  the  past  two  centuries  all  must 
admit  that  they  have  taken  the  lead  in  litera- 
ture, science,  and  mechanical  invention  ;  and  in 
saying  this,  I  do  not  feel, I  am  speaking  dispar- 
agingly of  any  other  country.  AVe  Americans 
are  their  descendants,  and  it  is  expected  the 
children  will  surpass  their  parents  when  they 
shall  have  fully  reached  their  maturity.  The 
Enfjlish  are  be^finninsf  to  feel  and  admit  this 
time  has  already  come  to  us.  The  old  folks 
usually  at  first  find  it  pretty  hard  to  give  up  to 
their  children,  and,  no  doubt,  ours  across  the 
Atlantic  are  having  such  an  experience.  Home 
delighted  to  be  the  "  mistress  of  the  world,"  and 
it  would  not  be  at  all  stranfire,  ifEnirland  should  be 
as  much  pleased  to  be  the  "  queen  "  of  the  world. 
If  we  are  slow  to  allow  she  is  that  now  in  arms,  I 
think  we  must  grant  she  is  swaying  the  might- 
iest intellectual  sceptre  at  the  present  time.  A 
nation  that  has  produced  Shakespeare,  Milton, 
and  Bacon,  has  the  right  to  mental  supremacy, 
till  some  other  shall  have  produced  greater  in- 
tellectual heroes.     Now  it  is  a  fact  that  almost 


LONDON.  37 

every  English  name  of  any  note  has  had  more 
or  less  to  do  with  its  metix)polis.  So  London's 
chief  attractions  do  not  come  so  much  from  ele- 
gant buildings  and  beautiful  works  of  art,  as 
from  the  haunts  and  corners  where  poets,  di- 
vines, philosophers,  and  scholars,  have  lived  and 
wrought  out  thoughts  which  are  quickening 
minds  everywhere.  Londoners  have  long  be- 
lieved in  free  trade  in  its  widest  sense.  They 
have  been  anxious  to  send  out  cotton  and 
woollen  goods  of  their  own  make,  and  have  been 
still  more  desirous  that  the  w^orks  of  their  best 
authors  should  reach  the  remotest  dwellers  be- 
yond the  seas.  Their  intellectual  productions 
have  been  sown  broadcast,  so  that  to-day  who  is 
there  that  does  not  know  something  of  London 
and  the  noted  men  who  have  lived  there  ?  Near- 
ly every  foreigner  visiting  the  city  for  the  first 
time,  has  some  spots  specially  marked.  Some 
things  are  sure  to  have  prominence  and  deep  his- 
torical significance.  The  stranger  is  certain  to 
give  precedence  to  such  matters.  So,  on  entering 
the  city,  he  naturally  turns  his  steps  as  soon 
as  convenient  to  London  Tower.  This  is  to  be 
expected,  especially,  if  he  is  interested  in  mili- 
tary exploits,  or  tragic  acts.  Probably  no  other 
memorial  of  the  city  reaches  so  far  into  the 
past.     There  are  hints  that  Vespasian  of  Roman 


38      AFTER-TIIOUGIITS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

rule  had  a  fortification  here.  It  is  known  for 
certainty  that  William  the  Conqueror  built  a 
portion  of  the  visible  structure.  The  present 
buildings  cover  over  several  acres,  encircled  by 
a  moat.  As  we  pass  over  its  drawbridge  and 
under  its  portcullis,  the  most  daring  and  cruel 
scenes  of  English  history  rise  before  us.  Its 
very  stones  breathe  of  blood  and  saddest  story. 
Here  brave  Wallace  pined  for  his  beloved  Scot- 
land; here  Catherine  Howard,  Sir  Thomas 
More,  Cranmer,  Lady  Jane  Grey,  and  the  Earl 
of  Essex,  perished ;  here  Anne  Boleyn  placed  her 
white  hands  round  her  delicate  neck,  as  she 
stooped  over  the  block,  saying,  ^'The  headsman 
would  have  little  trouble  "  ;  here  many  subjects 
of  kings  and  kingly  subjects  have  been  tortured 
to  death.  Here  Walter  Raleigh  was  unjustly 
confined  for  long  years,  during  which  time  he 
wrote  his  "  History  of  the  World  " ;  here  many 
Puritans,  Cavaliers,  and  Jacobites,  have  sighed 
and  died  for  libeily. 

Leaving  the  crimsoned  prison  and  hideous 
implements  of  torture,  as  the  guide  leads  the 
wny,  we  catch  a  sparkle  and  a  brilliant  glimmer 
of  the  royal  jewels.  The  crown,  sceptres,  and 
swords,  quite  blind  the  eyes  to  behold  them. 

Passing  to  the  Equestrian  Armory,  we  can  see 
numerous  suits  of  mail  worn  by  kings  and  knights 


LONDON.  3^ 

in  the  days  when  they  fought  with  blade  and 
lance.  We  can  scarcely  conceive  how  the  war- 
riors endured  these  bands,  chains,  and  mail, 
of  steel  and  bronze.  In  another  apartment  we 
witness  the  Oriental  weapons  and  arms  captured 
during  the  English  campaigns  in  Asia.  But  time 
forbids  our  tarrying  long  at  the  Tower.  In  our 
modern  civilization,  it  does  not  command  the  at- 
tention it  did,  when  the  greatest  glory  was  to  be 
found  on  the  battle-field. 

The  next  object  in  order  of  antiquity,  and  of 
the  greatest  interest,  is  Westminster  Abbey. 
Tra  lition  says,  from  the  night  St.  Peter  came 
over  from  Lambeth  in  a  fisherman's  boat,  and 
chose  a  site  for  the  abbey,  it  has  been  a  sacred 
spot  where  the  pilgrim  has  delighted  to  linger. 
It  was  built  by  Edward  the  Confessor,  and  in  it 
William  the  Conqueror  was  crowned.  It  is  bur- 
dened with  deeds  of  royal  splendor,  and  works  of 
darkest  shade.  But  we  cannot  stop  to  trace  out 
its  full  history,  or  learn  all  the  particulars,  while 
it  was  under  Catholic  sway ;  or  why  the  Jews 
were  nearly  beaten  to  death  for  attending  the 
coronation  of  Richard  I.  ;  or  why  Edward  I.  was 
so  attentively  watching  the  Stone  of  Scone 
which  had  been  placed  under  his  chair ;  or  how 
Henry  VI.  came  to  select  here  a  place  for  his 
interment ;  or  how  Henry  VIII.  was    the   last 


40      AFTEll-THOUOnTS    OF   FOREIGN    TRAVEL. 

English  king  crowned  by  popish  hands ;  or  in 
what  manner  Charles  I.  was  buried  out  of  sight 
and  Cromwell  was  throned  a  king.  It  seems 
fitting  that  all  the  kings  and  queens  of  England 
should  have  been  crowned  here.  No  Norman 
ruler  has  a  final  resting-place  in  Westminster  Ab- 
bey, and  hereafter  no  more  monarchs  are  to  be 
buried  in  its  cloisters.  On  approaching  the  ab- 
bey, if  the  sunshine  is  dimly  struggling  through 
the  commonly  murky  atmosphere,  we  can  scarce- 
ly refrain  from  experiencing  a  silent  charm  steal- 
ing through  our  very  being,  not  because  of  light, 
joyous  spires  and  airy  traceries,  towering  aloft, 
like  those  on  the  cathedral  of  Milan.  From  its 
architecture  nothing  is  seen  to  remind  one  of 
branching  forests  or  fir-tree  cones ;  neverthe- 
less, its  snow-shaped  roof  and  stony  battlements 
speak  of  broad  crags  and  ledgy  crests  that  have 
fought  the  ages  and  so  far  won  the  victory. 

Now  entering  under  the  low  stooping  arch  of 
the  north  door,  and  being  fairly  within  this  mau- 
soleum, we  are  first  struck  with  the  light  re- 
flected from  the  windows  in  the  distance  high 
above  us.  They  cast  upon  us  the  glow  of  the 
morning,  the  noon,  and  the  evening ;  the  purple 
of  the  heather,  the  gold  of  the  broom,  the 
azure  of  the  bluebell,  the  crimson  and  scar- 
let of  rose  and  dahlia.     Now,  as  we  walk  from 


LONDON.  41 

cloister  to  chapel,  noting  the  torahs  of  kings 
and  queens,  the  erect  statue  of  Chatham  by  the 
northern  entrance,  the  almost  speaking  image  of 
Pitt  guarding  the  western  door,  the  graceful 
Shakespeare,  the  acknowledged  sovereign  in  the 
Poets'  Corner,  and  the  commanding  Wolfe  in 
the  chapel  of  St.  John,  all  seem  to  say  this 
place  is  sacred,  not  so  much  because  monarchs 
have  been  crowned  and  buried  here,  not  so 
much  because  of  its  school,  its  monastery,  and 
religions  services,  as  for  this  reason,  it  is  the 
resting-place  of  the  noble  dead  of  every  rank 
and  genius.  It  is  more  than  the  Pantheon  of 
France,  or  the  ValhaUa  of  Germany,  or  the 
Santa  Croce  of  Italy.  Its  very  atmosphere 
seems  solemnly  peaceful.  Parties  who  were  at 
fearful  variance  while  living,  here  rest  in  appar- 
ent concord.  Even  bloody  Mary  and  turbulent 
Queen  Elizabeth  sleep  in  the  same  vault,  and 
across  the  aisle  repose  the  ashes  of  poor  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots.  Our  own  Motley  is  buried  here, 
who  has  built  for  himself  the  most  enduring 
monument  through  his  classic  histories.  As  we 
stand  by  the  tombs  of  Newton,  Burke,  Peel, 
Cobden,  Thackeray,  Macaulay,  Dickens,  Mau- 
rice, and  Kings  ley,  we  are  i-eminded  of  those 
who  lived  to  honor  and  ennoble  the  race.  Their 
mantle  has  fallen,  not  upon  one,  but  all  the  ua- 


42      AFTER-TIIOUGUTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

tions,  not  for  tyranny,  but  for  freedom.  Amer- 
icans can  but  ])e  happily  and  gratefully  im- 
pressed in  Westminster  Abbey  as  they  recall 
how  Lord  Chatham,  Fox,  and  others  spoke  bold 
and  encouraging  words  to  our  people  when  lib- 
erty was  threatened  and  likely  to  be  crushed, 
bidding  them  march  on  in  the  van  of  human 
rights,  led  by  Washington,  Franklin,  Jefferson, 
and  Adams,  our  peerless  and  sainted  heroes. 
We  find  some  monuments  here  of  departed  wor- 
thies, whose  mortality  sleeps  far  away.  Well 
it  is  thus ;  for  they  belonged  not  to  London,  or 
England,  but  to  the  world.  So  Pope  chose  to 
be  interred  in  the  parish  church  of  Twicken- 
ham ;  Gray,  in  the  cemetery  of  Stoke  Pogis ; 
Burns,  at  Dumfries  ;  Scott,  in  Dryburgh  Abbey  ; 
and  Shakespeare,  in  the  humble  church  of  Strat- 
ford-on-Avon.  This  abbey,  what  a  legacy  to 
London  and  the  world,  with  its  memories  of 
eight  centuries,  quickening  every  phase  of  the 
past,  making  us  feel  the  whole  human  family  is 
one  brotherhood,  and  that,  if  the  body  dies,  ge- 
nius, love,  and  true  nobility,  live  forever  I 

Of  the  modern  works  the  most  prominent  and 
distinguished  object  is  St.  Paul's.  It  is  not  yet 
two  centuries  since  it  was  completed.  On  its 
foundation  it  is  in  the  form  of  a  Roman  cross, 
five  hundred  feet  long  and  three  hundred  and 


LONDON.  43 

seventy  feet  high,  built  of  stone,  mostly  mar- 
ble. By  far  it  is  the  grandest  cathedral  in  Great 
Britain,  yet  it  might  be  placed  inside  of  St.  Pe- 
ter's at  Rome.  Approaching  it  from  whatever 
direction  possible,  it  presents  an  imposing  ap- 
pearance. It  is  a  spot  around  which  Londoners 
appear  bound  to  huddle  and  crowd;  so  mer- 
chants and  business  men  have  kept  pushing  up 
their  stores  and  shops  towards  it,  until  it  is 
closely  cramped  and  shut  in,  and  yet  there  are 
those  who  would  like  to  get  up  still  nearer,  and 
would  pay  for  the  land  at  the  rate  of  five  millions 
of  dollars  an  acre. 

Its  style  of  architecture  is  English  and  Ro- 
man, being  the  embodied  thought  of  Chris- 
topher Wren.  Entering  it  we  are  struck  with 
a  sense  of  vastness ;  especially  is  this  the  case 
standing  under  the  dome.  Walking  about  it,  we 
have  the  feeling,  it  is  not  sufficiently  occupied, 
presenting  too  much  open  space,  though  it  con- 
tains already  many  tablets  and  monuments  of 
England's  heroes  and  celebrities.  Some  of  the 
works  of  art  are  extremely  fine.  We  can  but 
admire  the  statue  of  John  Howard :  it  does 
honor  to  the  celebrated  philanthropist ;  that  of 
Dr.  Johnson  will  bear  careful  inspection ;  and 
that  of  Joshua  Reynolds  is  regarded  by  the 
English  a  masterpiece  of  its  kind.     Here  are 


44      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

eL\borate  memorials  over  the  ashes  of  Lord 
Nelson  and  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  England's 
greatest  military  heroes,  the  one  upon  the  sea, 
and  the  other  upon  the  land.  Here,  too.  Wren 
rests  from  his  labors,  with  the  inscription  over  the 
choir  to  his  memory,  "si  monument um  qnaeris 
circunispice/'  Yes,  this  cathedral,  the  outcome 
of  thirty-five  years  and  more  of  earnest  think- 
ing and  toiling,  is  his  monument.  Thus  it  is, 
one's  life-work,  whatever  it  may  be,  is  reall}'  his 
monument ;  if  this  is  of  harmonious  proportions 
and  expressive  of  goodness,  it  is  enough  :  men 
and  ano:els  will  deliijht  to  behold  it. 

For  the  antiquarian  and  historian  the  place 
of  greatest  attraction  in  London  is  the  British 
Museum.  The  external  appearance  does  not 
indicate  its  vastness  and  valuable  possessions, 
which  surpass  those  of  any  other  institution  of 
the  kind  in  the  world.  On  entering  it,  we  are 
first  introduced  to  large  tombs,  huge  winged 
lions,  gigantic  man-headed  bulls,  massive 
sphinxes  brought  from  Abyssinia,  Egypt,  and 
other  Eastern  lands,  having  been  cut  out  of 
sienite  and  the  very  hardest  stone,  eight  or  nine 
centuries  before  the  Christian  era.  But  we  leave 
these  monsters  to  view  the  Elgin  Marbles  from 
old  Athens.  These  were  taken  from  the  iniins 
of  the  Acropolis,  and  many  of  them  are  the  actual 


. LONDON.  45 

sculptures  from  the  Parthenon  and  other  tem- 
ples which  adorned  that  height.  Through  these 
works  we  can  form  an  acquaintance  with  Phidias, 
whose  chisel  must  have  been  guided  by  zeal, 
genius,  and  refined  skill.  Surely  beauty  must 
have  been  the  highest  ideal  of  the  Greek  mind. 
In  connection  with  these  are  sculptures  from 
the  temple  of  Diana,  which  was  so  magnificent 
at  the  time  St.  Paul  looked  upon  it.  Passing 
on,  we  actually  walk  among  the  ruins  of  Thebes, 
Karnack,  and  Memphis.  Here  the  antiquarian 
can  find  hieroglyphics  and  inscriptions,  which 
would  fill  volumes,  should  they  be  deciphered 
and  written  out. 

On  the  flooring  above,  it  would  seem,  we  can 
walk  for  miles  through  corridor  after  corridor 
containing  mounted  quadrupeds,  mummies,  In- 
dian relics,  minerals,  and  botanic  specimens.  But 
the  most  striking  feature  of  the  museum  is  the 
library,  placed  under  its  lofty  dome  a'  hundred 
and  forty-five  feet  in  diameter,  containing  about 
a  million  of  books.  From  its  centre  under  the 
glass  dome  radiate  tables  and  seats  sufficient  to 
accommodate  at  the  samo  time  five  hundred  read- 
ers. Any  one  being  properly  recommended  can 
occupy  a  seat  and  order  what  books  he  may  wish, 
and  they  will  soon  be  laid  upon  the  table  before 
him.     It  is  open  every  day  of  the  week,  except 


46      AFTER-TIIOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

Sundays  and  holidays,  from  six  to  eight  hours. 
Around  the  room  on  shelves  are  forty  thousand 
reference  books,  which  the  readers  can  consult 
at  their  pleasure.  It  is  stated,  there  are  more 
American  books  in  this  library  than  are  to  be 
found  in  any  one  library  in  our  own  country.  It 
contains  sixteen  hundred  different  copies  of  the 
Bible.  All  communications  are  carried  on  in  it 
so  as  not  to  disturb  the  quiet  of  the  place. 
This  is,  verily^  a  great  mental  workshop.  Minis- 
ters, lawyers,  doctors,  artists,  and  searchers 
after  knowledge;are  here  every  day  it  is  open. 
The  amount  of  good  this  library  is  doing  can- 
not be  estimated.  It  is  the  great  central  library 
of  the  world,  from  which  are  constantly  flowing 
currents  of  thought  and  information  to  replenish 
periodicals,  newspapers,  and  supply  matter  for 
new  books.  When  the  great  libraries  of  Cor- 
dova and  Alexandria  were  destroyed,  the  world 
met  with  an  irreparable  loss  ;  but  it  would  be  a 
far  greater  one,  if  the  library  of  the  London 
Museum  should  be  consigned  to  the  flames.  Its 
friends  look  upon  it  as  sacred,  and  guard  it  with 
the  utmost  precaution. 

A  supplement  to  this  institution  is  the  Ken- 
sington Museum,  which  seems  intended  more 
especially  to  meet  the  wants  of  students  in  art 
and  science.     This  already  occupies  some  twelve 


LONDON.  47 

acres  of  ground,  much  more  than  the  British 
Museum,  and  is  about  to  be  greatly  enlarged. 
On  entering  the  main  building,  the  architectural 
room  gives  us  the  iirst  welcome.  As  we  look 
round  we  realize,  if  the  old  Jew  expressed  in 
his  work  only  one  idea,  which  was  theocracy, 
the  ancient  Greek  but  one,  which  was  beauty, 
and  the  pagan  Roman  simply  one,  which  was 
Rome,  we  lind  great  diversity  here.  The  Tra- 
jan Column,  the  Apprentice  Pillar,  the  arches, 
friezes,  and  portals,  are  expressive  of  varied 
taste  and  beauty.  In  the  Oriental  court,  as  we 
examine  the  ancient  wares,  so  nicely  shaped  and 
exquisitely  colored,  we  are  ready  to  admit, 
"  some  arts  have  been  lost."  But  the  collection 
of  special  interest  here  is  that  of  Dr.  Schlie- 
mann  from  the  ruins  of  old  Troy.  This  con- 
sists of  numerous  vases,  pitchers,  jars,  stone 
implements,  vessels  of  copper  and  silver,  gold 
rings,  bracelets  and  frontlets  for  the  head,  and 
a  tablet  inscribed  with  Greek  characters,  reveal- 
ing the  fact  that  it  stood  near  the  Scsean  gate 
of  ancient  Troy,  thereby  making  the  old  city, 
concerning  which  Homer  so  thrillingly  sung,  a 
reality.  Now  Agamemnon,  Hector,  and  Achil- 
les, are  veritable  characters.  We  can  now  al- 
most see  those  old  Greeks  and  Trojans  fighting 
on  the  plains,  and  around  the  walls  of  Troy, 


48      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

and,  finally  getting  into  the  city  by  stealth, 
wreaking  vengeance  on  the  parties  that  had 
stolen  away  Menelaus'  fair  and  betrothed 
Helen.  All  honor  is  due  Dr.  Schliemann  for 
his  untiring  labors  in  making  these  great  dis- 
coveries which  must  tend  to  increase  faith  in 
the  gifted  bard,  causing  more  poets  to  court  his 
muse  and  rhetoricians  to  study  his  style. 

On  the  walls  of  this  court  are  a  score  and  a 
half  of  alcoves  containing  full-sized  mosaic  por- 
traits of  eminent  artists  of  all  ages.  Accord- 
ingly, Phidias,  Apelles,  Raphael,  and  Angelo, 
are  there.  In  the  Italian  court  the  statues  of 
Moses  and  David  are  colossal.  In  the  picture 
gallery  we  become  interested  at  once  in  the  car- 
toons of  Raphael,  and  a  copy  of  his  Trans- 
figuration Scene  which  was  his  last  work,  and 
which  was  borne  in  the  procession  at  his  funeral. 
Here  we  also  find  many  paintings  of  Landseer 
and  Turner.  We  are  soon  captivated  by  those 
of  Landseer,  for  I  hey  seem  to  express  living 
characters ;  as  we  look  at  them,  the  animals 
appear  to  move  ;  the  "old  dog"  is  so  sad  over 
the  remains  of  his  dead  master,  and  the  "  twa 
dogs  "  are  so  funny,  we  are  ready  very  soon  to 
award  the  palm  to  Landseer,  as  the  chief  among 
artists  in  painting  animals.  In  an  adjoining 
building  are  the  patents  and  models  of  the  most 


LONDON.  49 

remarkable  machinery  of  the  country ;  and  these 
are  so  adjusted  that  they  can  be  carefully  ex- 
amined. But  the  oldest  things  here  are  the 
newest.  The  original  spinning  and  carding 
machine  of  Arkvvright  is  a  curiosity,  and  the 
first  locomotive,  "Travitick's,"  is  a  marvel. 
After  lookini?  over  the  curiosities  the  most  con- 
servative  must  admit  the  world  does  move. 

In  another  apartment  we  can  witness  the 
chemical  analysis  of  many  vegetables  and  organ- 
ized bodies.  The  forty  elements  which  enter 
into  the  composition  of  the  human  system,  are 
all  parcelled  out  in  exact  proportions.  Of  course 
the  power  which  put  these  things  together  so  as 
to  form  a  man,  is  not  exhibited.  Evolution,  or 
chemistry,  has  not  as  yet  discovered  vital  forces. 
If  theories  alone  were  sufficient,  these  would 
have  been  portrayed  and  made  perfectly  plain 
lonof  aijo. 

But  the  most  interesting  feature  of  this  insti- 
tution, is  the  fact  of  its  instruction  which  is 
given  in  art  and  science  at  so  small  expense  that 
it  is  within  the  reach  of  the  humblest.  So  larcre 
numbers  of  both  sexes  are  being  led  forward  in 
these  departments  of  learning  by  able  and  ex- 
perienced professors ;  and,  furthermore,  they 
have  free  access  to  a  large  library  containing  all 
the   different  works  published,  treating  of  art 


50      AFTER-THOUGHTS  OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

and  science.  Add  to  the  London  and  Kensing- 
ton Mnsenms  the  Kew  Gardens  which  arc  do- 
ing so  much  for  the  science  of  ])ota ny,  and 
"such  a  trio"  is  formed  for  enlightening  and 
spreading  knowledge  broadcast  as  nowhere  else 
can  be  found.  Thus  they  become  stronger  bul- 
warks to  Great  Britain  than  her  strongest  mili- 
tary fortifications.  Their  elevating  power  is 
extending  to  the  remotest  corners  of  the  earth, 
teaching  men  how  to  think  and  do.  AVhat 
greater  charity,  or  good,  is  possible  to  human 
souls  ? 

In  an  immense  city  like  London,  the  questions 
force  themselves  upon  us,  "  Whence  comes  the 
money  to  carry  on  this  endless  traffic?  How 
are  these  multitudes  fed  and  clothed?*'  Well, 
as  we  go  to  the  Bank  of  England,  the  largest 
monetary  establishment  in  the  world,  covering 
over  eight  acres  of  ground  and  employing  a 
thousand  clerks,  we  readily  begin  to  understand 
whence,  at  least,  a  portion  of  the  money  comes 
which  propels  this  ponderous  machinery  of 
trade.  The  bank  has  a  capital  of  more  than 
seventy  millions  of  dollars,  and  notes  in  circu- 
lation exceeding  ninety  millions  of  our  currency. 
All  the  printing  of  the  bank  is  done  within  its 
own  limits.  Its  notes  are  never  reissued,  and 
those  returned  are  registered,  filed,  cancelled, 


LONDON.  51 

and  preserved  for  seven  years,  that  the  bank 
may  guard  against  all  possible  mistakes,  and  be 
pre[)ared  to  meet  any  fraud  that  may  chance  to 
arise.  Obtaining  an  order  from  the  manager  of 
the  bank,  we  are  permitted  to  go  through  its 
different  departments.  In  the  bullion  office  we 
observe  an  ingenious  apparatus  for  weighing 
gold,  and  capable  of  testing  thirty-five  thousand 
coins  a  day.  As  the  pieces  are  running  throuirh 
it,  if  one  varies  in  the  least  from  the  standard, 
it  is  spitefully  snapped  out,  as  having  no  right 
there,  until  it  shall  have  been  recast.  The 
steam  machine,  for  printing  the  notes  and 
marking  them  with  microscopic  writing,  seems 
almost  to  surpass  intelligence  itself,  as  it  does 
its  work. 

Just  across  the  street  on  Cornhill  is  the  Royal 
Exchange,  a  massive  and  substantial  structure, 
with  lofty  Corinthian  columns  in  front.  From 
ten  to  three  o'clock,  six  days  of  the  week,  this 
is  a  busy  place.  Bankers  and  merchants  rush 
in  and  out,  as  though  life  was  at  stake.  As  we 
watch  the  business  we  are  impressed  with  the 
feeling  that  important  transactions  are  going  on, 
and  large  sums  of  money  are  continually  chang- 
ing hands.  After  this  observation  we  can  but 
have  some  definite  conception,  as  to  the  source 
of  the   money  which   is   constantly  circulating 


52      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOUEIGX   TRAVEL. 

through  the  numberless  financial  channels  of 
this  vast  metropolis. 

Facing  these  two  buildings  across  Cheapside 
is  the  Mansion  House,  the  official  residence  of 
the  Lord  Mayor.  This  is  another  stanch  edi- 
fice. Looking  upon  these  three  buildings  and 
others  near  them,  it  would  seem  as  though  tliey 
must  stand  while  the  earth  lasts. 

If  the  House  of  Parliament  is,  like  Westmin- 
ster Abbey,  in  a  sunken  part  of  the  city,  still 
it  is  made  prominent  by  its  magnificence  and 
purely  Gothic  style  of  architecture.  It  covers 
over  some  eiofht  acres  of  jjround.  It  has  eleven 
hundred  apartments,  one  hundred  staircases, 
two  miles  of  corridors,  is  warmed  by  sixteen 
miles  of  steam  pipes,  and  the  gas  to  light  it 
costs  eighteen  thousand  dollars  per  year.  It  is 
madeuut  of  limestone,  and  the  expense  of  build- 
ing it,  exceeded  two  millions  sterling.  Chief 
among  the  many  objects  of  interest  in  this  stu- 
pendous building  are  the  Chambers  and  Houses 
of  Peers  and  Commons.  But  to  see  them  when 
most  inviting,  we  should  visit  them  while  Par- 
liament is  in  session ;  and  should  we  be  so  for- 
tunate as  to  be  there  when  Hon.  Stafford  H. 
Northcote  and  Prime  Minister  Gladstone  arc  to 
make  speeches  on  important  national  questions, 
it  will  be  all  the  more  exciting.     Mr.  Northcote 


LONDON.  53 

will  be  pert,  sharp,  and  somewhat  verbose,  and 
sure,  before  he  closes,  to  glorify  John  Bull ;  but 
Mr.  Gladstone  will  foretoken  the  true  orator 
in  rising  from  his  seat,  and,  as  he  utters  his 
first  sentence,  he  looks  manly,  his  language 
is  chissic,  and  his  manner  natural.  What  he 
says  and  what  he  does  show  that  he  is  fa- 
miliar with  the  hityhest  culture  of  the  a^^es.  He 
makes  a  daily  study  of  Homer  and  other  old 
authors.  He  believes  in  progress  and  Divine  jus- 
tice. It  is  worth  more  to  an  American  to  hear 
one  speech  from  Mr.  Gladstone  than  to  visit 
a  hundred  Parliament  Houses,  though  they  be 
adorned  by  a  Victoria  Tower,  five  hundred  and 
fifty  stone  statues,  and  many  superior  paintings. 
Lovers  of  art  are  not  likely  to  remain  long  in 
London  before  visiting  the  National  Gallery. 
This  has  one  of  the  finest  situations  in  the  city, 
occupying  the  highest  part  of  Trafiilgar  Square, 
which  consists  of  a  large  open  space  decorated 
with  a  lofty  column  guarded  by  four  monstrous 
stone  lions,  and  surrounded  by  fountains  con- 
stantly jetting  forth  water.  These  works  are  a 
testimony  to  Lord  Nelson.  The  front  of  the 
gallery  does  not  present  a  harmonious  and  pleas- 
ant appearance ;  it  is  too  much  broken  up. 
Within,  however,  are  to  be  seen  most  choice 
paintings,  still  by  no  means  so  many  as  are  to 


54      AFTER-XnOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

be  found  in  several  galleries  on  the  Continent ; 
but  most  of  the  different  painters  of  the  ditter- 
ent  schools  and  ages  are  represented  here. 
Turner's  collection  was  a  valuable  gift,  and  is 
a  precious  treasure  to  the  English  nation. 
Some  of  Landseer's  best  works  are  in  this  gal- 
lery. Turner  excels  in  depicting  landscapes ; 
and  Landseer,  animals.  Ward's  and  Cooper's 
paintings  are  of  a  high  order,  and  Reynolds's 
portraits  are  true  to  life.  None  should  fail  to 
notice  particularly  Murillo's  ''Holy  Family," 
Rubens'  "  Judgment  of  Paris,"  Raphael's  "  St. 
Catherine,"  Perugino's  "  Virgin  and  Child," 
Rembrandt's  "  Woman  taken  in  Adultery,"  and 
Correggio's  "Ecce  Homo."  Three  days  of  the 
week  this  gallery  is  free  to  the  public. 

The  parks  of  London  form  one  of  its  most 
striking  characteristics.  There  are  half  a  dozen 
of  these  right  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  each  em- 
bracing from  ninety  to  four  hundred  and  seventy 
acres.  These  have  been  justly  called  the  lungs 
of  London.  St.  James's  is  particularly  noted 
for  its  palaces  and  daily  military  displays. 
This  was  a  fiivorite  resort  for  Charles  II.  ;  he 
enjoyed  hunting  after  his  ducks  in  the  reser- 
voir, or  playing  pall-mall  in  the  open  ground. 
Regent  is  the  largest,  and  so  laid  out  as  to 
combine  garden,  lake,  meadow,  and  woodland. 


LONDON.  55 

In  connection  with  this  is  the  London  Zoolojri- 
cal  Garden,  which  is,  no  doubt,  the  finest  of  the 
kind  in  the  world.  Here  one  can  see  the  ele- 
phant, and  ride  upon  his  back,  if  he  may  wish. 
If  present  at  the  appointed  time,  he  can  witness 
the  feeding  of  the  ferocious  creature^?,  and  hear 
the  roar  of  the  lion  and  the  friijhtful  shrieks  of 
the  tigers  and  cats,  or  enjoy  the  wonderful  feats 
of  the  sea-lions,  as  they  leap  out  of  the  water  to 
catch  their  food,  as  it  is  hurled  at  them ;  or  he 
can  watch  the  beavers,  as  long  as  he  will,  while 
they  are  so  busily  engaged  in  cutting  up  logs 
and  dragging  theiu  away  for  the  purpose  of 
building  dams. 

Hyde  Park  is  the  place  of  special  resort  for 
the  elite  and  nobility  of  the  city.  On  almost 
any  pleasant  afternoon  may  be  seen  a  rich  dis- 
play of  the  extravagances  and  follies  of  many 
generations.  Should  we  judge  from  the  thou- 
sands of  richly  attired  gentlemen  and  ladies 
walking  or  riding  here,  we  would  draw  the 
conclusion,  there  can  be  little  poverty  in  Lon- 
don. Rotten  Row,  which  is  the  southern  part 
of  this  park,  is  devoted  to  horseback  riding, 
and  is  made  a  lively  place  by  those  who  are 
fond  of  equestrian  sports  and  exercise.  Ken- 
sington Gardens,  so  famous  for  their  history, 
as  well  as  for  their  beauty  and  elegance,  join 


56     AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

this  on  the  west.  The  walks,  flowers,  shrub- 
bery, and  grand  old  oaks,  elms,  and  sycamores, 
are  truly  inviting,  and  render  the  gardens  al- 
most enchanted  grounds.  Close  by  we  see  the 
palace  in  which  once  dwelt  William  of  Orange 
and  his  fair  queen.  In  this  mansion  Prince 
Georjre  of  Denmark  and  Georoje  II.  breathed 
their  last.  On  the  borders  of  this  garden  stands 
also  the  house  in  which  the  wise  Newton  lived. 
Here,  too,  is  the  Holland  house,  in  which  Tom 
More  so  much  enjoyed  his  Whig  coteries.  Near 
by,  also,  Addison  dwelt  to  regret  his  marriage 
to  a  lady  of  rank  and  extreme  ftithion. 

In  addition  to  these  parks,  as  we  wander 
through  the  city,  we  find  numerous  squares  and 
circles  of  various  dimensions  from  one  to  five 
acres,  laid  out  with  taste  and  in  many  different 
styles.  These  open  and  beautiful  places  must 
serve  to  improve  the  aesthetic  natures  of  all  com- 
ing in  contact  with  them,  as  well  as  have  a 
decided  sanitary  influence. 

Of  the  many  public  monuments  scattered 
through  the  city,  the  latest  erected  is  the  oldest, 
Cleopatra's  Needle,  which  has  been  brought  but 
recently  from  Egypt.  This  takes  us  far  back 
to  the  splendid  city  of  Heliopolis  where  it  was 
first  set  up,  and  then  to  Alexandria  where  it  as- 
sisted in  adorning  a  magnificent  city,  and  now 


LONDON.  57 

it  serves  to  grace  the  largest  city  ever  known. 
It  certainly  is  a  significant  memorial,  uniting 
the  past  to  the  present.  Bat  the  monument 
which  signifies  the  most  to  the  English  people 
is  that  of  Prince  Albert.  This  consists  of  a 
colossal  statue  of  the  Prince  seated  beneath  a 
beautiful  shrine  and  surrounded  by  sculptures 
illustrating  those  arts  and  sciences  which  he 
fostered,  and  the  many  improvements  which  he 
originated.  About  it  are  elaborate  groups  of 
statuary,  representing  astronomy,  chemistry, 
geology,  and  geometry;  rhetoric,  medicine, 
philosophy,  and  physiology ;  faith,  hope,  and 
charity  ;  fortitude,  prudence,  justice,  and  tem- 
perance ;  painting,  sculpture,  architecture, 
poetry,  and  music ;  Europe,  Asia,  Africa,  and 
America.  It  is  worthy  the  distinguished  dead 
it  commemorates  and  the  city  it  adorns. 

Walking  the  principal  streets  of  London, 
we  are  impressed  by  the  thronging  multitudes 
with  a  sense  of  its  vastness,  opulence,  and  in- 
tense activity.  Standing  on  the  London  Bridge, 
for  instance,  at  mid-day,  we  should  find  it  diflS- 
cult  to  count  the  numbers  hurrying  to  and  fro. 
It  is  estimated  that  a  hundred  thousand  people 
pass  over  it  daily.  Sailing  up  or  down  from 
this  bridge,  we  have  the  like  impression  of 
great  wealth  and  multitudes  of  moving  beings. 


58      AFTER-TIIOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

As  we  witness  the  forests  of  masts,  the  Thames 
does  not  appear  to  be  an  insignificant  river,  as 
it  is  sometimes  represented.  Here  are  steamers 
constantly  coming  in  and  going  out  to  dif- 
ferent pai-ts  of  the  world.  The  tunnel  under 
the  Thames,  of  which  we  heard  so  much  some 
years  ago,  has  proved  a  decided  failure ;  but 
the  underground  railroads  which  coil  around 
beneath  nearly  all  sections  of  the  city,  are  a 
success  and  a  great  convenience. 

The  streets  and  houses  of  Loudon  are  en- 
crusted as  thick  with  marvellous  feats,  anec- 
dotes, legends,  and  traditions,  as  are  the  hulls 
of  old  ships  with  barnacles.  These  sights  have 
a  kind  of  charm  to  the  foreigner,  familiar  with 
history,  for  he  has  read  and  dreamed  of  them, 
and  longed  to  look  upon  the  places  whence  have 
come  mental  forces  that  have  stirred  the  world. 

By  the  central  milestone  on  Cannon  Street, 
brave  Romans  were  wont  to  meet  and  talk  of 
Caesar  and  his  legions.  Their  roads  are  now  bur- 
ied ten  or  fifteen  feet  beneath  the  foundations  of 
the  city.  From  the  deep  excavations  made  every 
year,  many  relics  are  being  discovered.  A  piece 
of  Temple  Bar  which  is  the  only  remnant  left 
of  the  ancient  walls  is  now  the  centre  of  histor- 
ical London.  In  Charles  11. 's  time  this  bar  was 
completely  bestudded  with  the  heads  of  the  Rye 


LOXDOX.  59 

conspirators ;  and  still  later  it  was  thickly  set 
with  the  heads  of  Jacobites.  To  the  Temple 
hard  by,  long  ago  warlike  templars  were 
wont  to  come  in  their  white  cloaks  and  red 
crosses  from  the  fields  of  strife,  to  do  service 
in  the  name  of  the  Most  High.  Afterwards, 
the  Knights  of  St.  John  frequented  it,  to 
show  reverence  to  their  Supreme  Worshipful 
Master.  Still  later,  the  lawyers  came  hither 
to  find  a  sacred  shrine.  The  Temple  is  still 
standing,  and  lawyers  still  control  it  and  wor- 
ship in  it  on  the  Sabbath,  The  best  music  of 
the  city  may  be  heard  in  this  quaint  old  house 
of  praise.  We  are  disposed  somehow  to  linger 
about  this  place.  Tliere  is  a  uniqueness  in  the 
Temple  itself;  then,  too,  Dr.  Johnson,  Gold- 
smith, Lamb,  Jeffries,  Cooper,  Butler,  Sheridan, 
and  Tom  More,  used  to  drink  ofttimes  at  the 
pretty  fountain,  and  celebrate  in  the  sacred 
courts  praise  to  their  Maker. 

Fleet  Street,  which  passes  the  Bar,  is  full  of 
memorials.  Richard  II.  rode  along  here  to  St. 
Paul's  with  his  party-colored  robes  jingling 
with  golden  bells.  Elizabeth,  beruffled  and 
gorgeously  decked,  passed  over  this  street  in 
her  cumbrous -plumed  coach  to  thank  God  for 
the  scattering  of  the  Armada.  Here  Cromwell, 
a  king  in  all  but  a  name,  and  more  than  a  king 


60      AFTEU-TIIOUGIITS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

by  nature,  returned  the  keys  of  the  city,  as  he 
went  on  his  way  to  Guildhall  to  preside  at  the 
banquet  of  the  obsequious  mayor.  AVilliam  of 
Orange  and  Queen  Anne  were  borne  over  these 
pavements  to  return  thanks  for  victories  over 
the  French.  The  old  printers  strode  this  street 
who  first  published  the  plays  of  Shakespeare  and 
the  epics  of  Milton.  Over  it  also  passed  the 
early  bankers  who  laid  the  foundation  of  per- 
manent wealth. 

If  Fleet  Street  is  so  full  of  interest,  we  shall 
find  the  closes  and  alleys  leading  from  it  equally 
so.  The  scholars,  poets,  and  literati  of  every 
description  chose  to  be  removed  from  the  din  and 
whirl  of  business.  So  in  Shire  Lane  we  come 
upon  the  Kit-Cat  Club,  where  Addison,  Steele, 
and  Congreve,were  wont  to  disport.  Izaac  Wal- 
ton dwelt  here,  and  Hazlitt  resided,  when  he  fell 
in  love  with  the  tailor's  daughter  and  wrote  the 
"New  Pigraalion."  In  Fetter  Lane,  we  find  the 
house  of  Dry  den,  where  the  poet  was  often 
favored  with  the  company  of  Ot way  and  Baxter. 
In  Crane  Couii:  the  Royal  Society  held  its  first 
meeting,  in  which  the  great  Newton  was  its 
central  figure.  As  we  enter  Whitefriars,  we 
recall  the  time  when  this  was  inhabited  by 
actors;  and  as  we  pass  into  Blackfriars,  we 
wonder  that  it  should  once  have  been  the  re- 


LONDON.  61 

treat  for  players  and  painters ;  here  it  was  that 
Shakespeare  lived  while  he  was  in  London. 
Ludgate  was  a  debtors'  prison,  which  was  en- 
larged by  a  widow  of  Stephen  Foster  in  the 
reign  of  Henry  VII.  Avho  himself,  tradition 
says,  had  been  a  prisoner  there,  till  a  rich 
widow  seeing  his  face  through  the  grates,  se- 
cured his  pardon  and  married  him,  and  ever 
after  took  a  deep  interest  in  that  prison.  At 
St.  Dunstan,  we  can  see  where  good  Romaine 
and  the"  pious  Baxter  preached ;  and  at  Mur- 
ray's old  shop,  where  Byron  often  loitered  with 
his  cane  in  hand  at  the  shelves  of  many  books. 
The  chief  feature  of  Cheapside  is  Guildhall, 
which  is  just  as  lively  now  and  popular  as  ever, 
n ere  Lady  Jane  Grey  and  her  husband  were 
tried  ;  here  the  Lords  and  Parliament  declared 
in  favor  of  the  Prince  of  Orange.  On  this 
street  stands  the  new  Bow  Church,  from  whose 
tower  Wren  projected  a  balcony  for  the  royal 
family  to  occupy  on  state  occasions,  to  enjoy 
the  most  favorable  view  of  splendid  pageants 
as  they  should  pass.  In  this  tower  hang  the 
old  Bow  Bells  which  used  to  strike  lonar  ixixo  the 
death  knell  of  so  many  sentenced  to  die,  and 
now  they  give  voice  to  a  clock  that  also  jets 
from  the  church  over  the  crowded  thoroughfare. 
Bread  Street   leading  from   Cheapside   enjoys 


62   AFTER-  THOUGHTS  OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

the  honor  of  having  been  the  birthplace  of  ^lil- 
ton,  and  a  short  distance  away,  in  St.  Giles's 
Church,  he  lies  buried. 

Smithfield,  once  so  renowned  for  its  jousts 
and  tournaments,  is  the  phice  where  the  noble 
Wallace  was  executed  like  a  robber,  and  the 
gentle  Mortimer  was  led  to  a  shameful  death. 
But  in  spite  of  its  dark  side,  it  has  some  bright 
spots ;  for  somewhere  here  Chaucer,  the  father 
of  English  poetry  ;  Spenser,  the  author  of  "The 
Faerie  Queene";  and  Hogarth,  the  pictorial  sat- 
irist, were  born.  As  we  visit  King's  Street,  we 
learn  how  Spenser  died  there  for  the  want  of 
bread.  Near  Great  Tower  Hill,  our  Penn  was 
born.  In  Coveut  Gardens,  which  are  so  attrac- 
tive because  of  their  fruits  and  flowers.  Lady 
Mary  Wortley  Montagu  had  her  advent  into  this 
world.  On  the  site  of  the  Durham  House  Sir 
Walter  Raleigh  lived.  On  Cornhill  the  poet  Gray 
opened  his  baby  eyes  upon  mortal  things ;  and 
here  Johnson  and  Boswell  met  for  the  first  time. 

The  scholar  visiting  London  will  not  fail  to 
seek  out  Paternoster  Row,  the  great  mart  for 
booksellers ;  and,  if  he  has  not  been  apprised 
beforehand  of  its  narrowness  and  gloomy  as- 
pects, he  will  be  disappointed  as  he  enters  it, 
and  almost  sure  to  feel,  this  narrow  street,  barely 
wide  enough  for  a  wagon  to  squeeze  through, 


LONDON.  63 

cannot  be  Paternoster  Row.  But  as  he  reads  the 
names  on  either  side  as  he  passes  along,  which 
have  become  so  familiar  to  him  by  seeing  them 
on  the  title-pages  of  books,  he  becomes  satis- 
fied this  can  be  no  other  than  the  most  bookish 
street  in  the  world. 

Among  the  elegant  buildings  in  the  city  are 
the  club-houses.  Nearly  all  the  difierent  profes- 
sions, parties,  and  trades,  have  their  houses  pro- 
vided with  spacious  apartments  for  eating, 
reading,  talking,  and  sporting.  These  clubs 
really  have  much  to  do  in  controlling  civil  and 
secular  affairs. 

To  see  special  display  of  merchandise  and 
aristocratic  buyers  and  sellers,  we  must  go  upon 
Oxford  and  Regent  Streets.  The  meanest  shops 
and  poorest  wretches,  we  will  find  in  Drury  Lane 
and  at  the  Seven  Dials.  The  palace  and  the 
hut  are  common  in  London.  Here  we  will  often 
meet  with  excessive  wealth  and  excessive  pov- 
erty. The  mansions  are  many,  but  the  hovels 
are  still  more.  The  pauper  rates  now  are  ex- 
ceedingly heavy,  yet  there  are  hosts  crying  for 
bread  and  clothing.  If  the  city  does  pay  some 
fifteen  thousand  dollars  per  day  to  provide  for 
the  needy,  still  there  is  indescribable  suffering 
among  the  poor.  Their  numerous  hospitals  and 
infirmaries,  though  on  a  grand  scale,  are  crowded 


64      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

to  overflowing.  The  English  people,  as  a  whole, 
are  very  kind-hearted  and  generous  towards  the 
unfortunate.  Frequent  public  appeals  are  made 
in  their  churches  in  behalf  of  their  poor,  and 
bountiful  collections. are  taken  up. 

Amon<?  the  hio^her  and  middle  classes  a  fi^ood 
degree  of  interest  is  felt  for  the  cause  of  educa- 
tion. The  several  denominational  colleges  and 
many  private  schools  are  well  sustained.  But 
if  the  law  does  require  that  every  healthy  child 
from  six  years  of  age  to  fourteen  shall  be  in 
school  some  forty  weeks  during  the  year,  and  if 
in  the  permanent  scliools  there  are  five  hundred 
thousand  scholars,  yet  large  numbers  remain  un- 
taught. The  statf  of  instruction  in  these  schools 
consists  of  some  two  thousand  adult  teachers  and 
as  many  more  pupil  assistants.  The  schools 
generally  in  London  will  not  bear  a  favorable 
comparison  with  those  of  Boston,  Berlin,  or 
Edinburgh. 

The  general  quietness  in  this  city  on  Sun- 
day morning  impresses  the  Christian  stran- 
ger with  the  feeling,  London  is  a  religious 
city ;  and  then,  when  the  bells  from  the  nine 
hundred  places  of  worship  send  out  their  calls, 
and  the  streets  become  alive  with  men,  women, 
and  children,  pressing  their  way  to  the  different 
churches,  he  can  but  feel,  it  is  truly  a  Christian 


LONDON.  65 

city.  As  we  listen  to  Spurgeon,  Martineau, 
Canon  Farrer,  Parker,  Baldwin  Brown,  and 
Stopford  Brooke,  we  are  ready  to  allow  that 
London  has  its  great  preachers.  If  it  is  asked 
how  its  pulpit  compares  with  that  of  New  York 
City,  as  to  eloquence  and  cultured  thought,  the 
answer  must  be  given  that  the  former  falls  far 
below  the  latter.  The  preachers  lack  vivacity 
and  positive  expression'.  Of  course  there  are 
many  exceptions,  and  particularly,  among  the 
Dissenters.  The  people  at  large  are  becoming 
satisfied  a  state  church,  in  the  long  run,  is  a 
hindrance  to  real  progress,  and  they  seem  bound, 
as  soon  as  possible,  to  hasten  the  disestablish- 
ment of  the  English  Church.  The  religious 
bodies  manifest  but  little  interest  in  the  Sab- 
bath-school work  and  general  reform  movements 
compared  with  what  is  expressed  in  most  of  our 
churches ;  still  there  is  an  awakening  going  on 
now  ;  they  are  becoming  alarmed  at  the  present 
state  of  social  life  ;  they  are  realizing  they  must 
bestir  themselves  and  stem  the  tide  of  intem- 
perance and  profligacy,  or  their  ruin  is  inevitable. 
But  London  with  all  its  wickedness  is  a  well- 
regulated  city.  Its  policemen  are  most  efficient 
and  faithful.  Their  vigilance  is  felt  and  trusted 
by  day  and  night.  Perhaps  there  is  no  other 
place  where  their  power  is  more  signally  ex- 


66      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

pressed  than  in  the  main  thoroughfares  which 
are  usually  so  crowded  when  they  become 
blocked  up  with  omnibuses,  hacks,  freight- 
wagons,  and  footmen  ;  now  these  throngs  are  not 
boisterous  or  demonstrative,  for  they  are  aware 
the  policemen  are  sure  to  be  round,  and  should 
there  be  any  abuse  to  man  or  beast,  the  violator 
would  be  certain  to  answer  to  the  extent  of  the 
law  for  his  misdemeanor;  and  so  quietly  the 
Gordian  knot  becomes  unloosed  and  all  go  on 
their  way,  as  though  nothing  had  happened  out 
of  the  common  order  of  things.  This  shows 
there  is  a  wholesome  moral  and  restraining 
power  in  this  vast  metropolis,  and  that  in  spite 
of  its  rampant  passions  and  dens  of  iniquity, 
there  are  good  men  enough  in  it,  as  yet,  to  save 
it ;  and  so,  as  we  traverse  its  streets  and  wit- 
ness its  substantial  buildings,  and  look  upon  the 
internal  working  of  its  civil,  educational,  and 
religious  institutions,  we  can  but  feel,  London  is 
still  to  be  for  the  ages  to  come.  It  is  worthy 
to  live.  Though  it  is  the  greatest  city,  may  it 
become  greater ;  though  it  has  done  so  much  for 
civilization,  may  it  do  still  more ;  and  as  the 
loftiest  beacon  along  the  shores  of  civilization, 
may  it  rise  still  higher,  sending  benignest  radi- 
ance far  out  upon  the  vasty  deep,  to  guide  count- 
less hosts  into  the  fairest  havens  I 


III. 

FRANCE  AND  PARIS. 

XTTHEN  Nineveh  and  Babylon  had  fallen, 
'  ^  Sidon  and  Tyre  had  passed  their  zenith, 
the  glory  of  Athens  and  Ephesus  was  fiiding,  and 
Alexandria  and  Rome  were  enjoying  their  fullest 
prosperity,  there  was  an  extensive  country  oc- 
cupying the  north  and  western  part  of  Europe, 
inhabited  by  people  known  as  Gauls,  or  Celts. 
Its  surface  was  diversified  with  hills  and  vales, 
plains  and  mountains,  rivers  and  sea-coast.  Its 
soil  was  light  and  naturally  productive  ;  its  cli- 
mate was  temperate  and  salubrious.  Along  the 
rivers  and  the  sea-coast,  the  Celts  had  estab- 
lished many  settlements.  They  dearly  loved 
the  land,  and  often  desperately  fought  in  its 
defence.  As  a  people,  the  Celts  were  active 
and  brave.  Their  complexion  was  fair,  their 
eyes  light,  and  their  hair  blond.  They  were 
sprightly  and  fond  of  the  beautiful.  They  were 
religious,  and  worshipped  on  the  tops  of  the 
mountains  under  the  open  sky,  or  in  grottos 
roofed  hy  giant  trees.     It  would  seem  they  had 


68      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

advanced  as  far  as  possible  without  foreign  aid. 
So  when  Rome  had  developed  a  high  state  of 
civilization,  having  received  the  best  blood  and 
life  from  Oriental  nations  that  had  risen,  flour- 
ished, and  fallen,  when  she  had  learned  how  to 
build  large  towns  and  extended  roads,  being 
ambitious  to  possess  great  territory,  she  sent 
her  CiEsar  with  a  vast  army  over  the  Alps  into 
the  lands  of  the  Gauls,  who  were  inhabiting 
what  is  now  Switzerland,  Spain,  and  France. 
The  Romans  were  victorious  over  the  Gauls. 
Those  known  as  Celts  yielded  to  the  invading 
foe.  It  would  appear  they  were  at  once  inter- 
ested in  the  general  advancement  and  superior- 
ity of  the  Romans,  readily  accepting  their 
customs  and  adopting  their  manners  and  lan- 
ofuajje.  The  Celts  who  were  afterwards  called 
by  the  Romans  Franks,  and  known  to  us  as 
French,  were  very  receptive  and  much  given  to 
aesthetic  taste  and  expression.  It  was  not  so 
with  their  German  neighbors ;  these  were  par- 
ticularly fond  of  red  hair,  and  practised  dyeing 
it  with  woad  to  heighten  their  favorite  color,  and 
when  it  was  twisted  into  a  war-knot  upon  the 
top  of  their  heads,  they  were  satisfied,  —  their 
beau-ideal  was  reached  ;  they  cared  not  for  the 
advanced  civilization  of  the  Romans,  and  resisted 
and  beat  them  back,  as  they  attempted  to  ^nvade 


FllANCE   AND   PARIS.  69 

their  country.  So  the  mighty  Caesar  was  unable 
to  subdue  the  brave  people  beyond  the  Rhine. 
They  held  themselves  intact,  till  they  went  forth 
from  their  own  borders  in  the  course  of  time  to 
subdue  and  conquer. 

Accordingly,  the  Celtic  towns  soon  changed, 
as  Roman  colonies  settled  in  their  country.  The 
latter  found,  as  they  entered  the  land,  a  little  city 
where  now  stands  the  imposing  capital  of  the 
French  Republic.  It  was  confined  to  the  small 
island  of  the  Seine.  It  then  contained  no  mag- 
nificent buildings  as  now.  It  was  not  connected 
by  any  grand  bridges,  as  at  present,  with  the 
mainland.  But  they  were  easily  infused  with  the 
spirit  of  the  Romans  who  believed  in  large  towns 
and  great  roads  ;  and  so  their  little  city  began  to 
spread  itself  first  on  the  right  bank,  and  after- 
wards upon  the  left,  and  was  called  Lutetia  Par- 
isiosum.  After  Christianity  was  introduced  into 
the  country,  this  became  the  headquarters  of  the 
church.  Early  its  Notre  Dame  was  consecrated, 
and  nearly  every  street  had  its  chapel,  whose 
altar  was  dedicated  to  some  St.  Genevieve  of 
blessed  memory.  During  the  Christian  centu- 
ries, with  a  diversified  fortune  of  good  and  ill, 
the  city  has  gradually  advanced.  Though  hav- 
ing been  subjected  to  the  rule  of  more  than 
forty  different  kings,  emperors,  and  presidents. 


70      AFTER-TIIOUGirrS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

prompted  more  or  less  by  false  ambition  and 
vainglor}^  still  Paris  has  become  the  most  beau- 
tiful city  in  the  world.  With  its  history  will  be 
associated  the  names  of  Charlemagne,  Louis 
XII.,  Napoleon  I.  and  III.,  Louis  Philippe, 
and  Gambetta. 

Six  hundred  years  ago  Paris  had  its  "Twelve 
Masters  "  who  were  held  in  as  high  esteem  by 
its  citizens,  as  were  the  Seven  Wise  Men  of 
Greece  by  the  Athenians.  Its  University  for 
more  than  a  century  has  done  much  to  give  it 
fame  abroad  and  prosperity  at  home.  Its  free 
lectures  upon  all  subjects  connected  with  litera- 
ture, science,  philosophy,  and  art,  given  by  the 
most  eminent  scholars  of  the  country,  have  cre- 
ated and  fostered  a  spirit  of  growing  enterprise 
which  has  blossomed  into  noble  ideals  of  liberty 
and  patriotism.  The  teachings  of  Cuvier,  Gui- 
zot,  Thiers,  Mignet,  Victor  Hugo,  and  Lamar- 
tine,  have  lent  a  potent  influence  to  inspire  the 
people  with  high  aspirations  to  preserve  and  en- 
noble their  land.  Here,  I  feel,  may  be  discov- 
ered the  power  which  has  preserved  and  revived 
the  city  and  the  country  after  having  passed 
through  fiery  ordeals,  and  sometimes  so  crippled, 
it  would  seem,  they  could  never  rise  again.  It 
is  marvellous  how  soon  the  scars  of  the  Revolu- 
tion of  1848  were  abraded,  and  how  the  rav- 


FRANCE    AND   PARIS.  71 

ages  of  the  war  of  1870-1  should  have  nearly  all 
disappeared  at  the  time  of  their  great  Exposi- 
tion in  1878  ;  and  at  no  previous  period  was  it 
ever  more  hopeful  than  now.  The  city  is  pos- 
sessed of  wonderful  vivaciousness  and  industry. 
It  is  a  lively  town ;  how  could  it  well  be  other- 
wise, being  filled  with  nearly  two  millions  of 
human  souls?  It  occupies  an  area  of  thirty 
square  miles,  and  is  twenty-one  miles  in  circum- 
ference, having  three  thousand  streets  orna- 
mented with  ten  thousand  trees.  It  contains 
sixty-five  thousand  houses,  eighty  churches, 
forty  theatres,  two  thousand  schools,  and  the 
largest  library  in  the  world. 

To  obtain  the  finest  and  most  comprehensive 
view  of  Paris,  let  one  in  midsummer,  when  the 
day  is  fair,  ascend  to  the  top  ot*  the  Arc  de 
I'Etoile  which  stands  upon  high  ground  near 
the  western  limits  of  the  city.  From  this 
height,  as  he  looks  eastward,  he  will  be  almost 
»sure  to  exclaim,  "The  most  magnificent  picture 
of  a  city  I  have  been  permitted  to  look  upon." 
The  city  is  quite  circular  in  form,  and  almost 
entirely  surrounded  by  a  range  of  hills,  green 
with  grass  and  woodland.  The  distance  across 
from  hill  to  hill  must  be  some  eight  or  ten 
miles.  So  within  this  gently  sloping  valley  is 
to  be  seen  the  greatest  mass  of  the  cleanest  and 


?2      AFTER-THOUGHTS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

handsomest  buildings  of  the  whole  world,  ir- 
regularly divided  by  the  serpentine  course  of 
the  Seine,  spotted  here  and  there  by  beautiful 
parks,  and  dotted  off  into  sections  by  rows  of 
emerald  trees.  From  all  over  the  city  comes 
up  the  sound  of  busy,  humming  life.  As  the 
eye  passes  to  the  westward,  just  without  the 
outer  wall,  it  discovers  the  inviting  residences 
of  Neuilly ;  a  little  farther  on,  and  to  the  south, 
may  be  seen  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  looking  so 
cool  and  refreshing,  and  still  beyond  are  visil)le 
the  park  and  village  of  St.  Cloud.  This  is  one 
of  the  landscape  pictures  which  will  bear  to 
be  studied,  and  the  more  it  is  scrutinized,  the 
more  it  must  be  admired.  The  Triumphal 
Arch  itself  is  a  work  deserving  to  be  carefully 
scanned.  It  was  intended  to  be  the  grandest 
one  ever  built.  It  is  of  pleasing  proportions,  a 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  adorned  with 
statues  and  reliefs  intended  to  make  prominent 
the  brave  deeds  of  Frenchmen,  and,  especially, 
the  great  deeds  of  Napoleon  I.  Its  foundation- 
stone  was  laid  to  mark  his  birthday,  which 
occurred  on  the  15th  of  August,  1806.  It  has 
already  cost  a  million  and  a  half  of  dollars. 

From  this  arch  extends  into  the  city  direct 
to  Place  de  la  Concorde,  the  broadest,  finest, 
and  most  frequented  street  of  Europe.     On  a 


FRANCE   AND  PARIS.  73 

pleasant  afternoon  it  would  be  difficult  to  count 
the  carriages  constantly  passing  to  and  fro.  The 
equipages  for  the  most  part  are  costly  and  ele- 
gant. The  political  economist,  as  he  should 
behold  all  this  display,  would  be  forced  to  the 
conclusion  that  many  in  the  by-places  of  the 
city  must  suffer,  because  of  such  extravagance 
and  waste.  On  either  side  of  this  street  the 
houses  are  lofty  and  airy.  Bordering  it  are  the 
Champs  Ely  sees,  or  Elysian  Fields  ;  and  truly, 
judging  from  outward  appearance,  the  last  part 
of  the  day  and  late  into  the  night,  it  is  the  abode 
of  the  blest.  Hosts  are  certain  to  be  here, 
and  all  given  to  merry-making.  Such  gen- 
tility, such  activity,  such  laughing,  such  looking, 
such  knacking  and  sporting,  can  nowhere  else 
be  experienced.  By  this  street  stands  the 
house  of  Francis  I.,  which  was  built  more 
than  three  centuries  ago  in  the  forests  of  Fon- 
tainebleau,  and  in  this  century  was  removed  to 
its  present  site.  Looking  upon  this  thorough- 
fare is  also  the  Palais  de  I'Elysee,  which  has 
been  occupied  by  King  Murat,  Emperor  of 
Kussia,  Duke  of  Wellington,  Napoleon  III.,  and 
President  MacMahon.  On  the  south  side  of 
the  Champs  Elysees  is  the  Palace  of  Industry, 
which  was  built  for  the  Exposition  held  here 
in  1855.     It  is  a  massive  structure  of  stone, 


74      AFTER-THOUGFTTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

iron,  and  glass,  and  is  now  used  for  fairs  and 
public  exhibitions  of  art  and  agricultural 
works. 

The  gardens  and  groves  of  the  Champs  Ely- 
s6es  are  just  what  and  where  they  should  be. 
It  would  be  difficult  to  conceive  of  a  more  en- 
chanting place  than  this  among  temporal  things. 
It  must  serve  to  cultivate  a  love  for  the  beauti- 
ful in  nature.  Leaving  the  happy  fields  we 
come  to  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  which  has 
been  called  the  grandest  and  most  inspiring  open 
space  in  any  city.  Its  history  is  freighted  with 
the  most  thrilling  and  horrible  deeds.  It  was 
first  called  Place  Louis  Quinze ;  then  Place  de 
la  Revolution  ;  and  finally,  Phice  de  la  Concorde. 
Here  it  was  that  twelve  hundred  persons  lost 
their  lives  during  a  display  of  fire- works  in  honor 
of  the  marriage  of  the  Dauphin,  afterwards 
Louis  XVI.,  with  Marie  Antoinette.  In  1793, 
the  guillotine  was  erected  here  for  the  execu- 
tion of  Louis  XVI.,  and  here  it  remained  till 
many  hundreds  suffered  death  upon  it.  Here 
the  fair  and  innocent  Marie  Antoinette  ended 
her  days,  and  Madame  Rowland  breathed  her 
last,  uttering  the  words,  "O  Liberty,  what 
crimes  are  committed  in  thy  name ! "  And, 
finally,  Robespierre,  with  a  hundred  of  his  asso- 
ciates, chiefly  judges,  jurors,  and  officers,  who 


FRANCE  AND   PARIS.  75 

had  constituted  the  Tribunal  and  Commune  of 
Paris,  causing  such  an  effusion  of  innocent  gore, 
terminated  their  bloody  career  here.  In  1814, 
the  Prussian  and  Russian  armies,  and  in  1815, 
the  British,  were  encamped  here  ;  and  after  the 
Restoration,  it  was  proposed  that  a  fountain 
should  be  established  upon  the  ground  where 
the  scaffold  had  stood,  but  Chateaubriand  op- 
posed the  project,  saying,  "All  the  water  in  the 
world  could  not  wash  away  the  stains  of  blood 
shed  there."  Now  it  is  marked  by  an  obelisk, 
which  once  stood  before  the  great  temple  of 
ancient  Thebes,  and  afterwards  adorned  the  city 
of  Alexandria.  To  the  north  and  south  of  the 
monolith  are  now  two  magnificent  fountains, 
with  granite  basins  ornamented  with  bronze 
statues  representing  the  seas  and  rivers  of 
France.  The  limits  of  the  Place  de  la  Concorde 
are  defined  by  eight  grand  statues  emblematical 
of  the  leading  cities  of  the  Republic.  From 
the  centre  of  these  grounds  we  have  to  the  'west, 
a  fine  view  of  the  Triumphal  Arch  ;  to  the  east, 
of  the  Tuileries ;  to  the  south,  of  the  Legisla- 
tive Palace  ;  and  to  the  north,  of  the  Madeleine. 
These  views  alone  are  well  worth  the  trouble 
and  expense  of  journeying  from  foreign  lands  to 
enjoy  them. 

Approaching  the  Tuileries  we  are  struck  with  ' 


70      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

the  palatial  appearance  of  the  buildings.  They 
receive  their  name,  it  is  said,  from  the  fact,  the 
grounds  which  they  occupy,  were  once  used  as 
tile-fields.  An  extensive  area  in  their  front  is 
planted  out  with  trees  and  ornamented  with 
tiowers  and  fountains,  affording  favorite  resorts 
for  all  classes.  One  portion  seems  to  be  conse- 
crated to  the  welfare  of  little  children.  At 
times  they  are  numberless.  Happier  and  more 
charming  faces  are  nOwhere  else  to  be  seen. 

The  palaces  were  greatly  damaged  by  the 
communists  in  their  recent  war ;  but  they  are 
being  restored,  and  it  is  intended  to  make  them 
more  beautiful  than  ever.  The  architecture  in 
Paris  is  sufficient  to  prove  that  the  French  peo- 
ple are  natural  artists. 

Joining  the  Tuileries  is  the  Louvre,  consist- 
ing of  a  square  of  palaces,  whose  perimeter 
must  measure  more  than  half  a  mile,  having  an 
extensive  court  in  the  centre.  Looking  at 
these  stately  and  harmonious  buildings,  it  hard- 
ly seems  possible  that,  where  they  now  stand, 
there  was  once  a  marshy  swamp  infested  with 
wolves ;  but  such  being  the  fact,  the  origin  of 
the  name  Louvre  is  readily  perceived.  These 
palaces  were  built  at  different  periods  and  occu- 
pied by  different  royal  personages.  But  the 
'Louvre  is  now  devoted  almost  exclusively  to 


FRANCE   AND   PARIS.  77 

works  of  art.  The  ground  flooring  is  occupied 
with  sculptures  gathered  from  all  parts  of  the 
Avorld.  In  the  Egyptian  Hall  are  to  be  seen 
sphinxes,  colossal  statues,  and  sarcophagi, 
which  were  chiselled  and  polished  two  thousand 
years  before  the  dawn  of  Christianity.  In  the 
Assyrian  rooms  are  huge  sculptures  taken  from 
the  ruins  of  Nineveh,  bass-reliefs  brought  from 
Pergamos,  and  some  beautiful  relics  found  at 
Athens.  In  the  museum  of  the  Middle  Ages 
are  collected  treasures  from  all  the  different 
countries  which  gave  any  attention  to  art-works 
during  the  Renaissance  period.  In  the  rooms 
of  the  modern  sculptures  there  is  many  a  statue 
that  breathes  out  an  enchantment,  and  is  sure 
to  hold  the  inspector  spellbound.  Their  concep- 
tion and  execution  are  just  what  they  should  be. 
They  are  full  of  poetry,  history,  and  inspira- 
tion. Ascending  to  the  next  story,  we  have 
before  us  in  the  different  halls  seven  miles  of 
pictures.  As  we  enter  the  collection  of  the  old 
masters,  and  scrutinize  carefully  the  paintings  of 
Raphael,  Correggio,  Rubens,  Leonardo  da  Vinci, 
and  Murillo,  we  are  not  disposed  to  wonder 
that  this  should  be  called  the  "  Unrivalled  Art 
Gallery."  Weeks  are  required  to  see  them  all ; 
and  then,  after  one  has  discovered  his  favorites, 
he  requires  weeks  more  to  study  these  in  order 


78   AFTER-THOUGHTS  OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

to  catch  the  inspiration  that  burned  in  the  hearts 
of  those  who  were  called  to  blend  colors,  so  as 
to  give  real  expression  to  the  soul  of  saint  and 
sinner.  Then,  too,  it  is  interesting  to  observe 
the  artists  who  are  at  work  in  these  rooms, 
copying  the  pictures  which  they  most  admire. 
Here  are  the  young,  the  middle  aged,  and  the 
old,  apparently  all  absorbed  in  using  the  pencil 
and  brush.  For  centuries  the  French  artists 
followed  altogether  in  the  footsteps  of  others, 
creating  no  school  of  their  own,  being  no  more 
than  apprentices  to  the  Italian  and  Spanish  mas- 
ters. It  is  true,  they  early  distinguished  them- 
selves in  architecture,  leading  the  nations  in 
some  regards  in  this  department  of  art.  To  a 
large  extent  they  invented  and  developed  the 
Gothic  style.  By  nature  they  are  inclined  to 
be  artists,  but  not,  till  within  the  past  century 
have  they  become  eminent  as  painters,  estab- 
lishing a  school  of  their  own.  But  now,  as  we 
study  the  works  of  Claude  Lorraine,  Horace 
Vernet,  Poussin,  and  Desportes,  we  cannot 
doubt  that  they  are  producing  some  of  the 
best  art-works,  and  give  promise  of  oxcelling 
all  other  schools  on  the  Continent.  The  French 
people  take  a  deep  interest  in  these  galleries, 
making  them  free  to  all  a  portion  of  each  day ; 
so  the  poor  can  enjoy  them  as  well  as  the  rich. 


FRANCE   AND   PARIS.  79 

It  is  a  fact  that  most  of  their  leading  artists  at 
the  present  time  have  sprung  from  the  common, 
or  lower  classes.  Besides  the  Louvre,  Paris  has 
several  other  public  as  well  as  many  private 
galleries.  At  the  Luxemburg  Palace  are  a  few 
of  the  finest  art-treasures  in  the  city.  The 
sculptures  and  paintings  are  mostly  modern  and 
of  the  French  school.  The  palace  itself  with 
its  gardens  is  a  marvellous  work  of  art. 

Not  only  do  the  fine  arts  occupy  a  conspicu- 
ous place  in  this  city,  but  arts  of  all  kinds.  At 
the  Conservatory  of  measures  are  collected  nu- 
merous models  of  mechanical  and  school  appa- 
ratus. Here  the  farmer  has  the  opportunity  of 
examining  the  most  improved  plough  or  pump  ; 
the  mechanic,  the  best  water-wheels  and  steam- 
engines  ;  the  miner,  the  most  approved  drills 
and  lifters  for  quarrying  coal ;  the  potter  and 
glass-maker,  fine  illustrations  of  the  beginning 
and  progress  of  their  works  in  France  ;  and  the 
educator,  the  latest  styles  of  furniture  and  ap- 
paratus for  the  school-room. 

In  the  Hotel  de  Cluny  the  antiquarian  and 
the  lover  of  the  ancient  can  find  many  things  to 
gratify  their  taste.  The  building  itself  is  one  of 
the  oldest  in  the  city.  Parts  of  it  were  built  by 
the  Romans  as  far  back  as  the  third  century 
while  the  remainder  was  erected    in  the  early 


80      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

reign  of  the  Goths.  It  is  a  quaint  and  curious 
old  structure.  Within  are  treasured  odd  and 
grotesque  works  in  wood,  ivory,  cloth,  iron,  pre- 
cious stones,  and  metals,  many  thousands  in  all. 
The  Roman  altar,  with  an  inscription  to  Augus- 
tus Ca3sar,  is  the  oldest  Parisian  monument  in 
existence.  Here  it  was  Julian, was  proclaimed 
emperor  by  his  soldiers  in  the  three  hundred  and 
sixteenth  year  of  the  Christian  era ;  and  here 
the  first  Frankish  monarchs  resided,  till  they 
changed  their  seat  of  government  to  the  island 
of  the  Seine.  In  the  Cluny  the  oldest  things 
are  the  newest  at  the  present  day. 

At' the  Hotel  des  Invalides  the  soldier,  and 
those  fond  of  military  arts,  can  be  gratified  and 
instructed,  for  in  its  museum  are  to  be  seen,  it 
would  seem,  all  the  different  kinds  of  weapons 
ever  invented  for  destroying  human  life ;  at 
least,  there  are  enough  of  them,  being  more 
than  four  thousand  specimens.  This  museum  oc- 
cupies but  a  small  part  of  the  building  which  is 
mostly  devoted  to  the  needs  of  soldiers  who  have 
been  disabled,  or  of  those  who  having  served 
their  country  long,  have  become  superannuated 
and  deserve  a  pleasant  home  in  their  old  age. 
In  its  halls  during  the  day  may  be  seen  many 
veterans  who  bear  scars  of  hard  service  in 
defence    of  their  country.     Louis    XIV.   was 


FRANCE   AND   PARIS.  81 

prompted  by  noble  motives  when  he,  in  1670, 
founded  such  an  institution  capable  of  affording 
a  home  to  five  thousand  invalid  soldiers.  In 
front  of  these  buildings  are  extensive  parade 
grounds  which  are  rendered  lively  all  hours  of 
the  day,  when  the  weather  will  permit,  by  the 
feats  and  manoeuvres  of  soldiers.  The  French 
believe  in  military  science,  and  endeavor  to  put 
it  in  practice.  In  time  of  peace  they  prepare 
for  war. 

In  the  rear  of  this  institution  is  the  tomb  of 
Napoleon  I.  This  is  a  grand  structure  of  mar- 
ble and  granite,  sustaining  a  lofty  dome.  Its 
style,  gilt  and  polish  within  and  without,  make 
it  a  splendid  work.  In  an  open  circular  crypt, 
directly  under  the  dome,  rests  on  the  mosaic 
pavement  a  vast  sarcophagus  of  red  Finland 
sandstone,  containing  the  ashes  of  the  great 
warrior.  It  is  a  fitting  monument  for  such  a 
character.  A  life  full  of  display  and  self-ag- 
grandizement would  be  quite  sure  to  covet  just 
such  a  final  resting-place.  It  was  made  to  extol 
the  man.  How  unlike  the  tomb  of  Washing- 
ton, and  yet  how  much  more  sacred  is  the  lat- 
ter than  the  former  !  The  one  is  visited  mostly 
out  of  curiosity,  the  other  out  of  grateful  re- 
membrance. The  glory  of  the  one  dims  with 
age,  that  of  the  other  brio^htens.     It  is  safe  to 


82      AFTER-TIIOUGIITS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

point  the  young  to  the  hist  as  worthy  of  imita- 
tion, but  it  is  liazardous  to  emphasize  the  life  of 
the  first.  The  one  seemed  to  k)se  sight  of  self 
in  struggling  for  God  and  country,  while  the 
other,  in  his  endeavors,  appeared  to  mag- 
nify himself  above  God  and  country.  The  one 
asked  not  that  his  deeds  should  be  displayed 
upon  miles  of  canvas  or  extravagant  triumphal 
arches,  the  other  craved  this  world's  pageantry. 
This  tomb  ought  to  signify  to  every  observer  of 
its  splendor,  that  true  goodness  alone  can  pro- 
duce true  greatness.  Anything  short  of  this 
cannot  build  for  immortality. 

The  church  edifices  of  Paris  are  few,  according 
to  the  population,  compared  with  most  other 
civilized  countries.  It  is  evident  why  this 
should  be  so,  when  we  consider  how  France  in 
the  time  of  the  Reformation  threw  her  influence 
in  favor  of  Rome,  not  from  conviction  of  duty, 
but  from  policy,  thinking  to  gain  thereby  more 
temporal  power  and  emolument.  The  reform- 
ers were  driven  from  her  cities,  and  hollow- 
hearted  priests  were  suffered  to  have  control  of 
her  religious  affairs.  In  the  course  of  time 
these  became,  as  might  be  naturally  expected,  the 
butts  of  ridicule,  because  of  their  ignorance  and 
hypocrisy ;  and  the  masses  in  Paris  particularly 
rejected  their  foolish  teachings,  saying,  if  they 


FRANCE    AND  PARIS.  83 

were  the  representatives  of  Christianity,  they 
would  have  nothing  to  do  with  it.  So  Paine, 
Voltaire,  Diderot,  and  others  led  off  into  infi- 
delity and  the  severest  scepticism.  It  was  not 
very  long  before  a  large  majority  of  the  people 
came  to  feel,  there  was  no  reality  in  religion  ; 
soon  Sunday  with  them  was  turned  into  a  holi- 
day ;  its  old  churches  were  almost  deserted,  and 
scarcely  any  new  ones  were  built  during  the 
seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries.  This  will 
show  why,  with  a  population  of  nearly  two  mill- 
ions, the  city  should  have  only  some  eighty 
church-edifices. 

The  Notre  Dame,  the  cathedral  of  the  city,  is 
well  worth  a  careful  examination,  being  of  the 
purest  Gothic  style,  and  built  in  1163  on  the 
site  of  a  church  of  the  fourth  century.  During 
the  period  of  the  Revolution,  this  venerable  pile 
was  doomed  to  destruction ;  but  the  decree  was 
afterwards  withdrawn,  and  the  sculptures  only 
were  demolished.  The  building  was  then  con- 
verted into  a  Temple  of  Reason,  and  the  statue 
of  the  Virgin  was  replaced  by  one  of  Liberty  ; 
and  in  the  choir,  where  had  been  chanted  for 
ages  sacred  music,  martial  strains  were  made  to 
resound.  On  a  mound  in  the  centre  the  torch 
of  Truth  was  lighted,  over  which  rose  an  em- 
blem of  philosophy  after  the   manner   of  the 


84      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

Greeks,  ornamented  with  the  busts  of  Voltaire 
and  Rousseau ;  thus  it  continued  till  it  was 
reopened  as  a  place  of  divine  service  in  the 
present  century.  Its  carvings  over  the  central 
entrance,  representing  the  last  judgment,  with 
the  figure  of  Christ  in  the  centre,  and  the  por- 
tals on  either  side  ornamented  with  figures  of 
saints  and  their  attendants,  must  have  required 
great  skill  and  patience  in  their  elaboration. 
The  interior,  like  other  Gothic  cathedrals,  has 
its  high  nave  and  side-aisles  supported  by  huge 
columns.  Its  large  circular  windows  are  called 
in  Paris  the  finest  and  richest  in  the  world.  All 
who  examine  them  must  admit  they  are  beau- 
tiful. 

The  perfect  gem  of  a  little  church  is  the  St. 
Chapelle,  connected  with  the  Palace  of  Justice. 
It  is  really  the  climax  of  Gothic  architecture. 
Its  decorations  are  exceedingly  rich  and  hand- 
some ;  its  altars,  pillars,  and  windows,  are  ex- 
quisitely fine.  It  is  now  used  but  once  a  year 
for  religious  service,  which  is  the  annual  "Mass 
of  the  Holy  Ghost,"  observed  by  the  lawyers  at 
the  reopening  of  their  courts  after  the  autumn 
vacation.  So  we  are  to  infer  that  the  lawyers 
of  Paris  do  have  a  religious  turn  of  mind,  at 
least,  once  a  year.  It  was  built,  it  is  said,  in 
the  thirteenth  century,  for  the  purpose  of  receiv- 


FRANCE   AND   PARIS.  85 

inor  and  retaininor  the  Lord's  crown  and  the 
true  cross,  which  were  purchased  by  St.  Louis 
and  conveyed  to  the  chapel  through  the  streets 
by  the  barefooted  king.  These  relics  are  re- 
ported to  have  cost  four  hundred  thousand  dol- 
lars, and  the  building  one  hundred  and  sixty 
thousand  more.  During  the  revolutions,  it  has 
suffered  severe  damages,  so  that  four  hundred 
thousand  dollars  in  addition  have  been  expended 
in  repairing  and  restoring  it. 

The  Pantheon  is  the  most  conspicuous  church 
in  the  city.  Standing  upon  elevated  ground, 
with  its  lofty  dome,  it  overtops  all  the  other 
buildings.  It  resembles  St.  Paul's  in  London 
and  St.  Peter's  in  Rome,  but  is  inferior  in  size, 
still  well  proportioned  throughout.  Within,  it 
seems  more  like  a  memorial  hall  than  a  church. 
In  the  last  century  it  was  converted  into  a  Pan- 
theon to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  illustrious 
citizens.  Accordingly,  in  its  vaults  and  ar- 
cades, Voltaire,  Rousseau,  Lagrange,  and  many 
more  have  been  entombed. 

But  the  church  of  all  others  in  Paris  is  the 
Madeleine.  It  occupies  the  most  frequented 
part  of  the  city.  Though  a  modern  work,  it  is 
purely  classical.  It  was  patterned  after  the 
Parthenon  of  ancient  Athens.  Its  portico,  ex- 
tending round  the  building,  is  supported  by 


86      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

fifty-two  Doric  columns,  some  fifty  feet  high, 
and  six  feet  in  diameter.  It  is  constructed  en- 
tirely of  marble.  Its  pediments,  cornice,  and 
frieze,  are  magnificently  illustrated  by  sacred 
scenes.  Its  bronze  doors  are  carved  with  bass- 
reliefs  representing  the  delivery  of  the  Com- 
mandments. The  interior  is  one  vast  nave, 
lighted  from  above  through  four  spacious  domes. 
This  is  gorgeously  gilded  and  decorated  with 
paintings  and  marbles.  It  is  diflScult  to  make 
this  building  seem  like  a  Christian  church.  It 
was  commenced  before  the  Revolution  of  1789. 
In  Napoleon's  reign  the  work  was  renewed  with 
the  view  of  making  it  a  temple  of  glory.  Under 
Louis  Philippe  it  was  completed  and  converted 
into  a  church.  Though  it  contains  a  mixture 
of  classic  and  Renaissance  details,  and  has  often 
been  on  this  account  criticised,  still  it  is  difficult 
to  conceive  how  it  could  be  improved.  It  is  a 
work  to  be  admired,  in  spite  of  all  criticism. 

The  main  streets  of  Paris  are  called  boulevards, 
for  the  reason,  the  oldest  occupy  the  site  of  the 
fortifications  in  the  time  of  Louis  XIV.,  which 
then  surrounded  the  city.  These  are  so  roomy, 
so  clean,  so  spotted  with  trees,  and  lined  with 
elegant  blocks  of  buildings,  that  they  proffer  to 
the  traveller  striking  attractions.  On  these  are 
to  be  found  the  principal  hotels,  stores,  cafes, 


FRANCE   AND   PARIS.  87 

shops,  and  costly  residences.  Along  these  are 
passing  at  all  hours  of  the  day  and  night  as  well, 
an  innumerable  number  of  omnibuses,  tramways, 
and  hacks.  These  are  verily  thoroughflires. 
Were  they  compressed,  as  the  streets  of  London, 
they  would  appear  as  crowded  ;  as  they  are,  they 
can  be  passed  over  without  difficulty.  No  other 
city  is  better  supplied  with  conveniences  of  easy 
traffic.  Everything  is  so  systematized  and 
placed  under  efficient  police  control,  that  even 
the  stranger  can  enter  the  city  for  the  first  time, 
and  be  conveyed  to  any  place  within  its  limits 
without  inconvenience  or  imposition.  No  cattle 
or  sheep  are  ever  seen  on  the  streets  or  within 
the  city  walls.  The  fattened  animals  are  slaugh- 
tered outside  of  the  city,  and  conveyed  to  the 
markets,  for  the  most  part,  by  under-ground  rail- 
roads. All  produce,  and,  in  fact,  everything 
before  it  can  be  brought  into  the  city,  must  be 
inspected.  The  entrances  are  so  guarded  that 
this  is  readily  done.  No  other  metropolis  does 
more  for  the  welfare  of  its  citizens  than  Paris. 
Its  sanitary  regulations  are  quite  complete,  and 
for  this  reason,  no  doubt,  it  ranks  as  one  of  the 
healthiest  cities.  Paris,  being  built  on  sandy 
soil  and  out  of  light-colored  stone,  having  gen- 
erally a  clear  and  bright  atmosphere,  is  exter- 
nally cheery  and  beautiful. 


88      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

Paris  has  some  thirty  libraries.  The  largest 
of  these  is  the  National  Bibliotheque,  which  con- 
tains three  millions  of  books  and  one  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  manuscripts.  It  is  estimated 
that,  if  the  cases  containing  them  should  be 
placed  in  a  continuous  row,  they  would  reach 
the  distance  of  thirty  miles.  Most  of  the  books 
are  of  the  choicest  editions.  In  connection  with 
this  library,  there  is  a  large  reading-room  which 
will  accommodate  four  hundred  readers  at  the 
same  time,  with  chairs,  desks,  and  attendants 
suflScient  to  furnish  at  short  notice  any  book 
wanted.  It  is  open  six  days  of  the  week  for  six 
hours  per  day.  It  affords  a  great  resort  to 
scholars  of  all  professions. 

The  Arsenal  Library  contains  one  hundred 
and  eighty  thousand  volumes ;  the  -Louvre, 
one  hundred  thousand;  the  Hotel  de  Ville, 
eighty  thousand ;  the  Institute  Library,  Mty 
thousand.  In  all  the  different  libraries  of 
Paris  there  are  more  than  four  million  vol- 
umes. So  it  is  apparent  that  this  city  is 
abundantly  supplied  with  reading  matter  which 
is  placed  within  the  reach  of  all ;  and,  when  we 
add  to  the  multiplicity  of  books,  seven  hun- 
dred and  fifty  newspapers  and  periodicals  pub- 
lished in  Paris,  we  can  but  infer  that  the  Paris- 
ians are  a  reading  people.     It  is  true,  much  of 


FRANCE   AND  PARIS.  89 

their  literature  is  of  a  light  order,  still  their  pa- 
pers and  works  on  science,  philosophy,  and  art, 
are  niimero.us  and  of  a  high  order. 

The  French  people  are  expressing  special  in- 
terest in  the  cause  of  education.  Their  school 
system  is  divided  into  three  grades,  denominat- 
ed superior,  secondary,  and  primary.  The  first 
is  especially  devoted  to  mathematical  and  phys- 
ical science,  and  is  not  inferior  to  that  of  any 
other  country.  This  is  carried  on  by  the  means 
of  lectures  before  certain  established  institutions. 
The  best  talent  of  the  land  is  employed  in 
giving  instruction.  The  College  of  France, 
which  is  established  in  Paris,  has  a  corps  of 
thirty-nine  professors,  and  the  University  has 
thirty-seven.  In  Paris  there  are  several  other 
schools  of  this  order.  Before  these,  from  three 
to  five  lectures  are  given  daily.  They  are  well 
patronized  by  men  and  women  of  all  ages.  The 
gray  heads  are  numerous  in  these  audiences,  and 
many  of  those  advanced  in  years  are  intently 
enjrajred  in  takincc  notes.  The  lecturers  them- 
selves  are  masters  of  their  subjects  and  enter 
into  them  with  great  enthusiasm.  Seldom  will 
the  auditors  become  inattentive,  even  when  the 
lectures  are  protracted  to  an  hour  and  a  half  in 
length.  It  is  surprising,  as  well  as  gratifying, 
to  find  so  many  attending  these  lectures,  treating 


90      AFTER-THOUGHTS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

of  political  economy,  poetry,  tragedy,  medi- 
cine, art,  history,  electricity,  geography,  and,  in 
short,  all  the  different  branches  of  learning.  If 
a  people  were  not  fond  of  study  and  interested 
in  investigating,  they  would  not  voluntarily  pat- 
ronize such  institutions. 

The  secondary  grade  of  instruction  comprises 
about  the  same  course  of  study  pursued  in  our 
colleges ;  however,  instead  of  recitations,  the 
teaching  is  given  in  lectures.  The  students  are 
divided  into  classes  accordius:  to  rank  and  stud- 
ies.  In  Paris  the  largest  number  of  students  is 
found  in  the  department  of  law  ;  in  that  of  med- 
icine next ;  in  science  next ;  and  the  least  num- 
ber in  theology. 

The  primary  grade  answers  to  our  public 
schools.  Elementary  education  was  almost  en- 
tirely neglected  from  the  time  of  the  Revolution 
of  1793  to  the  accession  of  Louis  Philippe  to 
the  throne ;  but  the  efforts  of  this  monarch, 
aided  by  Guizot  and  Cousin,  soon  wrought  a 
great  change,  and  ever  since,  the  progress  of  pri- 
mary education  has  continued  to  advance,  till 
now  the  Republic  and  the  metropolis  are  well 
supplied  with  schools.  The  school-rooms  and 
methods  of  instruction  are  subject  to  criticism  ; 
the  former  are  not  in  keeping  with  the  views  of 
ancient  Speusippus  who  said  that  the  young  in 


FRANCE   AND   PARIS.  91 

their  course  of  education  should  be  surrounded 
with  an  abundance  of  pure  air  and  clear  light  and 
aplenty  of  beautiful  piciures.  The  instruction 
appeals  more  to  memory  than  to  the  understand- 
ing, in  imitation  of  Jacotot's  system. 

The  charity  and  reformatory  schools  in  this 
country  are  usually  conducted  in  keeping  with 
the  most  improved  methods  ;  particularly  is  this 
the  case  with  the  institutes  for  the  blind,  the 
deaf  and  dumb,  and  wayward  youths.  The  peo- 
ple here*  generally  believe  in  education,  and  so 
public  opinion  tends  to  force  the  children  into 
the  schools.  It  is  seldom  that  you  here  meet 
youths  who  are  unable  to  read  and  write.  The 
children,  as  a  rule,  are  bright  and  apt  to  learn. 
Only  let  them  be  properly  trained  and  they  are 
certain  to  develop  into  the  noblest  maturity. 
The  fjovernment  of  France  is  now  manifestiuor 
more  interest  in  the  cause  of  education  than 
ever  before.  The  result  of  the  national  exhibi- 
tions has  served  to  stimulate  the  masses  in  this 
direction.  Then,  too,  her  present  form  of  gov- 
ernment can  be  sustained,  she  feels,  only  by  an 
educated  people.  In  the  past,  she  has  been 
greatly  embarrassed  by  Church  and  State  in 
her  school  work.  Emperors  and  priests  are 
hostile  to  free-thinking  subjects ;  they  believe 
in  the  education  of  the  few,  not  the  masses.    At 


92       AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

their  hands  France  has  siiflfered  more  than  lan- 
guage can  tell.  Could  she  have  been  wise  and 
strong  enough  in  the  sixteenth  century  to  have 
chosen  the  better  part,  and  broken  away  from 
Rome,  and  held  fast  to  the  Bible,  she  would 
have  been  saved,  undoubtedly,  from  so  many 
dramas  deepening  into  tragedies,  and  would 
have  held  no  second  place  among  civilized  na- 
tions. But  alas  I  she  let  slip  her  golden  oppor- 
tunity, and,  accordingly,  has  been  tossed  to  and 
fro,  alternately  glorified  and  despised.  It 
seems  strange  she  has  not  been  crushed  into 
the  dust.  She  would  have  perished,  had  there 
not  been  a  marvellous  recupemtive  energy 
and  national  tenacity  in  her  people.  Nature 
has  been  most  propitious  to  them  in  the  bestow- 
ment  of  real  genius,  astute  mental  qualities,  and 
stirring  temperaments.  For  this  reason  they 
have  revelled  in  all  conditions  of  life,  from  that 
of  secluded  peace  to  the  wildest  wars.  They 
have  been  the  gayest  of  the  gay,  and  the  grav- 
est of  the  grave.  At  one  moment  they  have 
been  the  slaves  of  base  prejudice,  and  the  next 
they  have  launched  into  the  most  extravagant 
si)eculations.  In  matters  of  taste  they  have 
been  as  inexorable,  as  they  have  been  lax  in 
matters  of  morality.  Their  sentiments  have 
been  as   changeable  as   an  April   sky.     Their 


FRANCE   AND  PARIS.  93 

national  existence  has  been  more  theatrical  than 
real.  Their  medal  has  always  had  a  reverse 
side.  Over  against  the  glory  of  letters  has  been 
set  the  gloom  of  heart-crushing  atheism  ;  and 
over  against  the  splendors  of  the  battle-field  have 
hung  the  horrors  of  revolutionary  massacres  and 
the  wretchedness  of  domestic  infidelity.  But 
shall  it  continue  to  be  thus?  Present  indica- 
tions declare  it  far  otherwise.  The  severe 
ordeals  through  which  the  nation  has  recently 
passed,  have  not  crushed  their  spirits,  but  served 
to  sober  and  make  them  feel  more  dependent 
upon  some  power  higher  than  themselves.  This 
is  made  evident  from  the  fact  that  tlie  people 
are  more  interested  in  national  and  religious 
affairs  than  ever  in  the  past.  Sunday  is  no 
longer  a  holiday  to  the  extent  it  was  a  decade  ago. 
Sabbath  morning  their  churches  are  w^ell  filled ; 
especially  is  this  true  of  all  dissenters  from  the 
Catholics.  The  Protestants  now  in  Paris  num- 
ber more  than  sixty  thousand,  and  are  rapidly 
increasing.  The  missionaries  sent  from  Eng- 
land and  America,  are  being  greatly  encouraged 
in  their  labors.  Let  the  Parisians  become  thor- 
oughly Christian  in  their  homes  and  every-day 
life,  and  their  city  would  become  more  beautiful 
and  enduring.  Then  they  would  be  able  to  lead, 
not  only  in  matters  of  taste,  but  in  the  high- 


94      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

est  forms  of  aesthetic  culture.  Their  "Liberty, 
Equality,  and  Fraternity,"  inscribed  upon  so 
many  public  buildings,  would  have  more  than  a 
humanitarian  significance.  Their  works  of  art 
would  receive  higher  tints  and  touches ;  their 
philosophy  and  literature  would  become  broader 
and  deeper ;  and  their  lives  would  adorn  their 
city  with  grander  attractions  than  triumphal 
arches,  with  more  satisfying  results  than  the 
finest  galleries  of  art,  and  with  more  instruc- 
tive treasures  than  the  largest  libraries. 


ly. 

SPAIN  AND  MADRID. 

rpHE  history  of  Spain  is  more  than  a  drama ; 
-*-  it  is  a  tragedy.  Looking  upon  its  physical 
features,  we  discover  it  is  favorably  situated ; 
but  few  countries  possess  such  maritime  advan- 
tages, being  washed  on  two  sides,  and  more,  by 
navigable  waters ;  then,  too,  its  latitude  and 
great  diversity  of  surface  are  propitious  to  the 
growth  of  almost  every  variety  of  vegetation. 
The  grape,  olive,  mulberry,  orange,  and  lemon, 
seem  to  spring  spontaneously  from  the  soil. 
The  numerous  mountains  are  unfailing  reser- 
voirs to  the  brooks  and  rivers  runnin":  throu«:h 
the  valleys  and  across  the  plains.  Spain  is  a 
land  of  beauty  and  sublimity.  Its  highest  sum- 
mits covered  with  lastinsf  snows,  its  towerins: 
hills  waving  with  oak  and  pine,  its  lofty  crags, 
deep  dells,  cerulean  skies,  and  salubrious  cli- 
mate, all  serve  to  render  it  exceedingly  attrac- 
tive to  man.  Its  first  inhabitants  of  whom 
history  makes  any  mention  were  Celts.  Eudely 
did  they  live  and  delight  in  the  land,  the  waters 


96      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

and  forests  supplying  and  satisfying  their  wants ; 
but  it  was  not  always  to  be  thus. 

Before  the  light  of  Christianity  shone  upon 
the  world,  there  were  civilized  nations  dwelling 
along  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean.  They 
were  given  to  adventure  and  discovery.  In  the 
course  of  events  they  sent  explorers  to  Iberia, 
as  Spain  was  then  called,  who  found  it  rich 
in  mineral  wealth ;  and  this  opened  a  field 
for  Grecian,  Carthaginian,  and  Roman  settle- 
ments. These  were  adventurers,  the  same  as 
the  first  settlers  in  Virginia.  But  circumstances 
so  ruled,  that  many  of  them  became  permanent 
dwellers  along  the  southern  borders  of  this  de- 
lightful land.  No  doubt,  they  introduced  the 
advantages  and  comforts  of  their  own  civiliza- 
tion. 

In  the  reign  of  Julius  Caesar,  Rome  was  hold- 
ing supreme  power  among  the  nations.  She 
had  already  extended  her  rule  far  to  the  east, 
and  still  prompted  by  an  unbounded  ambition, 
she  felt  her  sceptre  must  sway  over  the  regions 
of  the  far  west ;  so  her  forces  penetrated  into 
this  distant  land,  conquered  it,  and  changed  its 
name  to  Hesperia.  They  soon  built  large  towns 
and  great  roads.  They  worked  the  mines  ex- 
tensively, and  returned  immense  treasures  of 
wealth  to  Rome.     For  centuries  they  possessed 


SPAIN   AND   MADRID.  97 

the  land.  But  nations  have  their  fall,  as  well  as 
their  rise.  If  Rome  had  been  the  mistress  of 
the  world,  in  the  fourth  century  she  had  her 
decline ;  and  with  her  fall,  sooner  or  later, 
passed  from  her  grasp  all  her  possessions.  The 
Ostrogoths  from  the  north  swept  over  Italy, 
laying  claim  to  all  her  lands  and  cities ;  about 
the  same  time,  the  Visigoths  came  down  from 
Scandinavia  upon  Spain,  subduing  the  Romans 
there,  claiming  the  country  as  their  own. 
Though  conquerors,  they  adopted  the  language 
of  their  subjects.  There  were  good  reasons  for 
this ;  the  Romans  were  more  cultivated  than 
the  Goths.  It  was  might  that  gave  them  rights, 
making  the  former  slaves.  For  about  four  hun- 
dred years  the  Goths  ruled  this  land.  Under 
their  sway  it  did  not  advance ;  in  fact,  it  lost 
ground. 

At  this  time  the  Arabs  were  taking:  hio:h 
rank  among  the  civilized  powers.  They  were 
ambitious  to  gain  new  territory,  that  they  might 
spread  their  religion.  They  believed  this  was 
to  be  done  by  the  sword ;  accordingly,  they 
became  skilful  warriors  for  those  times.  They 
had  captured  many  countries  in  Asia  and  Africa, 
and  now  they  were  anxious  to  obtain  footing  in 
Europe,  that  they  might  set  up  the  standard  of 
the   Prophet   there.      In    711,   from  Northern 


98      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREmX   TRAVEL. 

Africa  they  crossed  into  Spain,  and  in  a  great 
battle  fought  at  Xeres,  they  gained  the  victory, 
and  at  length  were  able  to  plant  Mohammedan- 
ism throughout  most  of  Spain.  The  Moors,  as 
these  Arabs  were  denominated  here,  were 
skilled  craftsmen  and  adepts  in  many  branches 
of  learning.  They  selected  Cordova  as  the  cap- 
ital of  their  European  possessions.  Hero  they 
built  a  superb  mosque,  whose  splendid  relics 
remain  to  this  day.  It  was  supported  by  three 
hundred  and  sixty-five  marble  columns,  had  nine- 
teen bronze  doors  of  curious  workmanship,  and 
was  lighted  by  forty-seven  hundred  lamps,  kept 
constantly  burning.  Here  they  early  estab- 
lished a  university,  whose  portals  were  thronged 
with  students  long  before  the  colleges  of  Oxford 
and  Cambridge  were  dreamed  of.  Here  was  a 
library  containing  six  hundred  thousand  volumes 
long  before  printing  had  been  discovered. 

The  Moors  were  an  industrious  people  and 
fond  of  agriculture.  They  introduced  to  the 
country  plantations  of  sugar,  rice,  and  cotton, 
and  transplanted  from  Africa  palm-trees  which 
have  continued  to  flourish  ever  since.  Many 
branches  of  learning  received  their  special  at- 
tention. This  was  true  of  chemistry,  botany, 
astronomy,  philosophy,  and  medicine.  They 
borrowed  and  transmitted  to  us  our  numerals. 


SPAIN   AND    MADRID.  99 

They  were  the  first  to  manufacture  carpets, 
silks,  gold  and  silver  embroidery,  and  paper,  in 
Europe.  Their  schools  were  so  far  superior  to 
those  of  surrounding  nations  that  many  Chris- 
tians patronized  them.  In  many  of  their  lead- 
ing towns,  academies  and  libraries  were  found- 
ed ;  their  literature  was  heralded  abroad ;  for 
centuries  their  march  was  onward.  Their  king- 
dom became  the  most  opulent  and  influential ; 
their  rulers  dwelt  in  gorgeous  palaces  and  in- 
dulged in  sumptuous  feasts  ;  their  artists,  poets, 
and  philosophers,  were  counted  by  hundreds. 
But  durinor  these  mediaival  a<?es  wars  were  al- 
most  constantly  occurring  in  this  land.  The 
Goths,  who  had  been  driven  into  the  mountains 
of  the  north  and  east,  but  not  conquered,  were 
frequently  making' attacks  upon  their  neighbor- 
ing enemies,  and  by  degrees  kept  regaining  their 
lost  territory,  and  thereby  forcing  the  Moors 
into  closer  quarters.  There  is  an  element  of 
tenacity  in  the  Gothic  nature,  as  dogged  as  that 
in  the  Jew ;  at  least,  it  never  gives  up.  They 
had  not  been  lying  simply  on  their  arms  in  these 
mountain  passes,  but  had  made  the  most  possi- 
ble out  of  the  Saracen  civilization,  so  that  as  fast 
as  they  captured  Moorish  towns,  they  were  pre- 
pared to  render  them  still  more  prosperous. 
Many  of  their  governors  were  men  of  marked 


100      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

ability,  and  so  ruled  as  to  become  influential  at 
home  and  abroad.  Tiie  Spaniards  had  now  be- 
come fiimous  for  their  enterprise  and  national 
growth  ;  their  commerce  was  entering  the  most 
distant  ports ;  they  had  vessels  exploring  for 
new  discoveries. 

Now  the  Moorish  star  of  empire  was  fast  de- 
clining, and  the  Spanish  waxing  bright ;  and,  in 
1492,  the  final  blow  was  struck,  and  the  last  ves- 
tige of  Mohammedan  tyranny  abraded ;  and 
throuijh  the  means  of  that  brave  little  fleet 
which  sailed  out  from  Palos  the  same  year, 
Spain  was  greatly  enlarged  and  enriched. 
Christopher  Columbus  had  proved  himself  a 
genius  and  a  hero.  Xo  wonder  that,  as  he  pre- 
sented the  title  of  the  West  Indies  to  the  Span- 
ish Court,  bells  should  ring ;  guns,  be  fired ; 
bonfires,  kindled ;  and  Columbus,  hailed  as  a 
nobleman  of  the  first  rank  !  All  this  was  justly 
due  the  self-sacrificing  man.  But  it  is  sad  that 
afterwards,  enemies  should  have  robbed  him  of 
his  just  reward,  and  that  King  Ferdinand  should 
have  suffered  him  in  his  old  age  to  pass  his  last 
days  in  poverty  and  disgrace. 

Spain  at  this  period  was  the  wealthiest  and 
most  prosperous  nation  of  the  Avorld.  Its  fields 
were  the  best  cultivated ;  its  ports  the  most 
thronged.     It  was  then  renowned  for  the  corn 


SPAIN    AND   MADRID.  101 

of  its  plains,  the  wine  and  oil  upon  its  hill- 
sides, the  milk  and  wool  of  its  pastures,  the 
timber  from  its  mountains,  the  marbles  from  its 
quarries,  and  the  treasures  from  its  mines. 
Spring  and  summer  were  never  absent  from  its 
valleys,  though  perpetual  winter  brooded  over 
its  mountain-tops.  A  halo  of  glory  seemed  to 
be  spanning  Spain.  The  light  which  had  long 
since  been  extinguished  in  Alexandria,  Athens, 
and  Rome,  had  blazed  out  anew  in  this  land. 
The  union  of  the  glowing  imagination  of  the 
East  with  the  strong  intellect  of  the  AYest,  was 
promising  the  happiest  results.  A  new  mental 
life  appeared  to  be  rising  from  the  sepulchre  of 
antiquity.  Illustrious  scholars  and  finished 
writers  were  everywhere  becoming  common 
within  its  borders. 

Such  was  Spain  three  centuries  ago,  but  now 
how  changed  !  Its  bright  luminaries  have  passed 
away.  The  monk,  thematadore,  and  the  brig- 
and, have  taken  their  place.  The  school  has 
been  supplanted  by  the  bull-ring;  the  pen, 
by  the  stiletto.  Much  of  its  surface  has 
been  shorn  of  its  beauty,  and  left  desolate  and 
ugly.  Large  tracts  of  arable  land  are  lying 
perfect  wastes.  The  forests  are  nearly  all  gone  ; 
the  rivers  have  ceased  to  whirl  saws  and  spin- 
dles ;  its  commerce  has  disappeared ;  its  pruning- 


102      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

hooks  have  been  beaten  into  swords,  and  its 
ploughshares  into  spears ;  and  ninety  thousand 
laborers  have  been  converted  into  ninety  thou- 
sand warriors.  The  people  at  large  are  badly 
housed,  scantily  fed,  and  meanly  clad ;  the  vil- 
lages and  cities  swarm  with  beggars.  Surely 
a  blight  has  come  upon  Spain.  Why  should 
the  finest  country  in  Europe  become  so  deso- 
late? Why  should  a  people,  naturally  talented 
and  noble,  become  so  degenerate?  Three  hun- 
dred years  ago,  when  Martin  Luther  tore  off  the 
monkish  cowl,  and  laid  bare  popish  wickedness 
and  priestly  iniquities,  Germany  felt  the  shock 
and  broke  allegiance  with  Catholicism ;  the  lit- 
tle country  of  Holland,  which  had  fought  so 
desperately  against  the  encroachments  of  tide 
and  sea,  was  ready,  at  once,  to  resist  unto  death 
the  religious  inroads  of  Romanism ;  the  tiny 
Republic  of  Geneva  raised  its  battlements  high 
against  the  invasion  of  the  monster,  and  became 
the  cradle  of  a  great  liberty  ;  England  and  Scot- 
land sprung  to  arms  and  beat  the  foe  from  their 
borders ;  but  France,  Italy,  and  Spain,  ran  to 
the  rescue  of  Rome,  and  Spain  became  the  most 
desperate  foe  to  the  Reformation.  No  sooner 
had  it  made  this  decision  than  its  decadence  be- 
gan. This  step,  however,  was  taken  against  the 
will  and  wishes  of  the  best  minds  of  the  coun- 


SPAIN   AND   MADRID.  103 

try ;  from  multitiicles  we  might  select  Carlos  de 
Sesso,  Augustin  Cazalla,  Constantin  Ponce  de 
la  Puente,  Ponce  de  Leon,  Antonio  Herezuelo, 
Christobel  Losada,  and  Juan  Gonzalez,  whose 
names  will  live  and  be  loved.  Even  the  Refor- 
mation was  hailed  at  the  very  steps  of  the 
throne ;  Don  Carlos,  the  heir-apparent,  was 
moved  by  its  spirit,  and  for  this  reason  Philip 
II.  caused  him  one  day  to  be  seated  with  saw- 
dust scattered  profusely  round,  and  ordered  ah 
executioner  to  separate  his  head  from  his  body  ; 
and  so  a  father,  because  of  bigotry,  murdered 
his  son. 

The  Reformation  found  numerous  friends  in 
New  Castile,  in  the  cities  of  Seville  and  Toledo, 
in  the  towns  of  Granada  and  Valentia,  in  Sara- 
gossa  and  Barcelona.  Its  light  was  penetrating 
even  to  the  convents  and  monasteries.  As 
Philip  II.  saw  the  progress  it  was  making,  he 
joined  hands  with  the  Pontificate  of  Rome,  de- 
termined it  should  be  levelled  to  the  dust  and 
destroyed.  So  in  one  single  night  eight  hun- 
dred Protestants  were  put  into  chains  and  thrown 
into  prison  at  Seville.  The  Inquisition  was  re- 
vived, and  thousands  >of  lives  were  sacrificed  at 
the  stake  and  on  the  block.  In  ten  short  years, 
from  15 GO  to  1570,  the  Reformation  was  exter- 
minated from  Spain.     Is  it  strange  that  dark- 


104      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

ness  should  come  over  that  fair  land,  having 
brutally  murdered  so  many  of  its  noblest  char- 
acters? The  calamity  was  not  merely  upon  the 
surfiice  ;  it  sank  into  the  very  vitals  of  society. 
The  merchants  and  artisans  of  the  cities,  the 
peasants  of  the  rural  districts,  the  shepherds  on 
the  mountains,  the  rich  and  the  poor,  the  wise 
and  the  ignorant,  all  were  shocked  and  paralyzed 
by  the  terrible  blow.  Liberty,  morality,  and 
manhood,  were  hurled  into  the  grave  which 
Catholicism  had  dug.  A  little  while  before, 
Spain,  of  all  countries,  would  have  been  the  last 
one  selected  to  do  such  bloody  work  for  the 
puipose  of  burying  freedom  of  conscience  in  the 
dust. 

But  Philip  could  not  be  content  in  wreaking 
his  vengeance  upon  Spain ;  he  must  be  one  of 
the  instigators  of  the  horrible  Bartholomew 
massacre  ;  he  must  attempt  the  downfall  of  Hol- 
land and  the  overthrow  of  England.  An  inferior 
man  physically,  but  of  tremendous  will,  he  was 
bound  that  Catholicism  should  be  nourished  by 
the  blood  and  ashes  of  Protestantism.  While 
he  sat  upon  the  throne,  he  wielded  the  mightiest 
power  for  the  wrong.  He  struck  death-blows 
at  conscience,  reason,  and  humanity.  Knowing 
these  facts,  we  need  no  longer  wonder  that, 
in  the  course  of  a  few  centuries,  Spain  should 


SPAIN  AND   MADRID.  105 

become  prostrate  and  the  most  degraded 
among  European  realms  —  a  land  without  any 
■well-organized  school  system,  with  a  bull-ring 
and  cock-pit  instituted  in  every  city  of  any 
considerable  size,  which  are  sure  to  be  open 
on  Sundays  the  year  round,  and  are  patron- 
ized by  all  classes ;  even  the  poorest  wretches 
will  sell  the  rags  from  their  backs  for  the 
sake  of  obtaining  admittance  into  these  bar- 
barous exhibitions.  To-day  Spain  is  a  military 
despotism  ;  small  in  area,  with  a  population  of 
twenty-three  millions,  it  has  ninety  thousand 
soldiers  ;  these  are  finely  clad  and  sumptuously 
fed.  The  people  stand  in  awe  of  the  soldier; 
he  commands,  and  they  obey.  The  military 
expenditures  and  waste  force  upon  the  citizens 
enormous  taxation  ;  but  they  have  no  means  ot 
remedying  this  injustice ;  so  every  year  the 
country  is  becoming  more  reduced  and  im- 
poverished. Their  king,  Alphonso  XII.,  is  a 
mere  tool  in  the  hands  of  the  military  rulers. 

Another  incubus,  to  drag  Spain  down,  is  the 
priesthood.  The  priests  are  very  numerous 
wherever  there  is  anything  to  give  them  good 
support,  for,  like  the  soldier,  they  believe  in 
elegant  attire  and  dainty  living.  The  country 
is  becoming  reduced  so  fast  that  it  is  evident, 
if  there  is  not  some  unforeseen  change  for  the 


106      AFTER-TFIOUGIITS    OF    FOREIGN    TRAVEL. 

better,  the  time  cannot  be  far  distant  when  this 
country  will  be  as  desolate  as  the  Trojan  plain, 
or  the  Carthaginian  fields.  Had  it  not  been 
for  foreign  aid,  Spain  would  have  had  no  rail- 
roads ;  and  were  it  not  for  foreign  assistance, 
they  would  not  be  running  at  present. 

In  passing  from  France  into  Spain  the  con- 
trast is  very  striking ;  the  former  is  character- 
ized by  thrift,  order,  and  industry  ;  the  latter,  by 
neglect,  confusion,  and  indolence :  the  one  has 
the  promise  of  a  bright  future  ;  the  other  seems 
bound  to  an  inevitable  death.  Were  it  not  for 
its  past  the  traveller  would  not  be  very  much 
inclined  to  seek  this  country,  and  much  less, 
to  spend  time  in  it  under  the  present  order  of 
things  ;  for  wherever  he  goes,  whether  it  be  by 
rail,  or  boat,  or  carriage,  or  on  foot,  he  is  sub- 
ject to  more  or  less  inconvenience,  and  all  the 
time  feels  anxious  ;  brigands  are  on  every  hand ; 
robberies  and  murders  are  incessantly  occur- 
ring ;  and  the  chances  for  redress  and  justice 
in  case  of  misfortune,  are  rare  indeed.  But, 
despite  all  the  discomfitures,  asssociation  and 
nature  render  Spain  most  inviting  to  the  seeker 
after  knowledge,  and  to  the  lover  of  natural 
beauty  and  human  antiquities.  These  are  to  be 
met  with  on  every  hand. 

At  Burgos  stands  a  magnificent  Gothic  cathe- 


SPAIN   AND    MADRID.  107 

dral  of  the  raedijeval  ages.  It  really  consists  of 
a  cluster  of  churches.  The  mind  that  conceived 
them  must  have  been  gifted,  and  the  hands  which 
piled  them  up  must  have  been  skilled  and 
strong.  There,  too,  in  the  Town  House,  may  be 
seen  the  tomb  containing  the  ashes  of  the  heroic 
Cid  who  has  figured  so  strangely  in  Spanish  his- 
tory. 

At  Valladolid  which  was  once  the  capital  of 
Spain,  may  be  witnessed  the  palace  in  which 
Philip  II.  Was  born,  the  house  in  which  Colum- 
bus died,  the  home  of  Cervantes  while  he  was 
pulilishing  his  marvellous  "Don  Quixote,"  and 
the  spot  where  the  first  auto-de-fe  was  kindled, 
that  Romano  might  atone  for  becoming  a  Prot- 
estant. 

At  Seville  may  be  visited  another  grand  ca- 
thedral of  the  fourteenth  and  fifteenth  centuries, 
containing  the  tomb  in  which  the  remains  of 
Columbus  were  first  deposited,  and  where  his 
son  Ferdinand  lies  buried.  This  is  also  the 
birthplace  of  Velasquez  and  Murillo.  All  who 
have  looked  upon  their  paintings,  can  but  feel 
an  interest  in  their  nativity  and  the  places  asso- 
ciated with  their  lives.  In  the  sixth  century  Se- 
ville was  the  favorite  city  of  the  Moors,  and  still 
later  it  was  the  residence  of  many  Spanish  mon- 
archs.     Here  the  first  court  of  the  Inquisition 


108      AFTER-TUOUGIITS   OF   FOREIGN    TRAVEL. 

in  Spain  was  instituted  in  1481.  Its  o1)ject 
then  was  to  force  the  Jews  to  become  Chris- 
tians ;  and  all  who  refused  and  did  not  flee  the 
country,  were  sentenced  to  be  burned  alive,  and 
generally  many  of  them,  at  the  same  time,.and 
on  some  great  holiday.  The  unfortunate  victims 
were  usually  followed  to  their  funenil  pyre  by 
trains  of  priests  chanting  hymns,  and  proces- 
sions of  magistrates  and  judges  clothed  in  their 
robes  of  oflice.  The  king  was  wont  to  be  pres- 
ent and  sit  with  his  hat  olf  by  the  side  of  the 
grand  inquisitor,  approving  of  the  revolting 
scene,  called  by  the  Spaniards  auto-de-fe,  or  act 
of  faith. 

At  Cordova  are  to  be  found  many  Roman  and 
Moorish  antiquities.  It  is  claimed  to  have  been 
founded  by  Marcellus,  and  that  here  the  Romans 
established  their  first  colony  in  the  land.  It 
also  boasts  of  having  given  birth  to  the  two 
Senecas,  the  poet  Lucan,  and  many  other  fa- 
mous characters.  For  a  long  time  it  was  the 
Oxford  or  Cambridge  of  Spain. 

At  Grenada  is  the  noted  Alhambra,  an  an- 
cient palace  of  the  Moorish  kings,  built  about 
six  hundred  years  ago,  and  yet,  in  a  good 
state  of  preservation.  The  style  of  architec- 
ture, ornaments,  and  inscriptions,  is  unique  and 
wholly  Arabic.     It  would  be  difficult  to  con- 


SPAIN    AND   MADRID.  109 

ceive  of  a  structure  more  airy,  graceful,  and 
beautiful.  Besides  this  there  are  whole  ranges 
of  palaces,  towers,  and  castles,  which  once  be- 
longed to  the  Moors.  Grenada  also  contains 
a  fine  old  Gothic  cathedral.  It  has,  moreover, 
been  the  birthplace  of  many  illustrious  men : 
among  others  were  Alonzo  Cano,  the  Michael 
Angelo  of  Spain ;  Kueda,  the  Spanish  Thespis  ; 
and  Luis  de  Grenada,  the  Hesperian  Demos- 
thenes. 

Thirty  miles  from  Madrid,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Sierra  Guadarama,  stands  one  of  the  largest 
granite  structures  of  the  world  in  one  of  the 
most  barren  and  solitary  places  of  Spain.  This 
is  the  Escurial,  an  immense  palace  containing 
eighty  staircases,  seventy-three  fountains,  eigh- 
teen hundred  and  sixty  rooms,  and  twelve  thou- 
sand windows  and  doors.  It  was  erected  by 
Philip  II.  at  a  cost  of  seventy-five  miUions  of 
dollars.  But  why  should  it  have  been  placed 
in  such  a  dreary  wilderness,  since  Spain  fur- 
nishes so  many  spots  of  loveliness  and  grandeur, 
where  the  orange  gives  its  perfume  and  the  palm 
its  fruit  ?  From  all  these  Philip  II.  turned 
away,  preferring  this  place  because  he  desired 
to  commemorate  a  victory  gained  over  the 
French  by  the  Spaniards,  and  still  more,  to 
make  a  votive  ofiering  to  San  Lorenzo  who,  a 


110      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

saint  according  to  the  legend,  was  martyred 
here  upon  a  gridiron ;  and  so  in  the  shape  of  a 
gridiron  was  this  monstrous  pile  of  stone  built ; 
and  here  Philip  II.  came  to  live,  as  king  and 
monk,  where  he  could  hear  only  the  tempest's 
howl  and  the  thunder  of  the  avalanche,  as  it 
rushed  down  the  mountain-side.  Here  lived 
the  man  of  peering  eye,  narrow  forehead,  and 
protruding  jaw,  who  swaj^ed  the  mightiest  scep- 
tre at  the  time  of  the  Reformation.  In  this 
palace  were  written  those  terrible  decrees,  —  and 
out  of  these  gates  they  were  despatched,  — which 
caused  the  soil  of  Holland  and  the  Netherlands, 
of  Italy  and  Germany,  to  be  dyed  with  the  blood 
of  martyrs.  The  chair  is  to  be  seen  in  which 
he  sat  when  he  plotted  the  assassination  of  the 
Prince  of  Orange,  and  the  desk  is,  as  it  was,  on 
which  he  wrote  the  mandate  that  launched  the 
Armada.  "The  room  is  pointed  out  where  the 
wretched  man  being  devoured  by  worms,  died, 
participating  in  mass  which  was  being  performed 
in  his  behalf  before  the  great  altar  of  his  gilded 
and  elaborately  decorated  church.  Not  far  from 
the  chapel  is  the  descent  into  the  gorgeous  tomb 
in  the  form  of  the  Pantheon  at  Rome,  where 
may  be  seen  the  black  marble  urn  containing 
the  dust  of  Philip  II.  In  this  tomb  are  thirty- 
six  sarcophagi,  holding  the   ashes  of  Spanish 


SPAIN   AND   MADRID.  Ill 

kings  and  royal  personages.  Philip  intended 
this  tomb  to  be  a  mausoleum  which  would  sur- 
pass in  beauty  and  grandeur  that  of  the  Medici 
at  Florence.  But,  if  Philip  caused  the  civil- 
ized world  to  be  ransacked  for  designs  and 
models  in  order  that  the  Escurial  might  be  the 
most  imposing  work  of  man  ;  if  he  sought  mar- 
bles from  the  mountains  of  Sierra ;  jaspers  and 
agates  from  Sicily  and  Sardinia ;  sculptures  of 
mantels  and  altars  from  Madrid,  Florence,  and 
Milan  ;  gratings  and  gates  of  brass  from  Cuenca 
and  Saragossa ;  candelabra  and  bells  from  Tole- 
do and  Seville  ;  pictures  and  statues  from  Italy  ; 
gold  and  gems  from  the  Indies  ;  the  rare  woods 
from  the  New  World  ;  the  tapestries  from  Flan- 
ders ;  and  sacerdotal  vestments  from  the  nun- 
neries of  Europe,  —  after  all  this  painstaking,  his 
palace  is  a  splendid  failure,  ugly  in  its  outward 
and  inward  aspects,  wanting  proportion  and 
harmony,  —  a  fit  emblem  truly  of  his  own  life. 

At  the  present  time  it  feigns  to  be  a  univer- 
sity ;  but  its  students  are  few  and  of  inferior 
quality.  So  there  it  stands,  in  the  mountain 
wilderness,  as  a  lasting  monument  of  Philip's 
folly,  cruel  bigotry,  and  excessive  sensuality. 

But  the  Spaniards'  favorite  city,  as  it  should 
be,  is  Madrid.  This  is  their  Paris  or  Wash- 
ington.    They  regard  it  one  of  the  most  beauti- 


112      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

ful  capital  cities  on  the  eastern  continent.  Ita 
position  is,  like  the  Escurial,  very  extraordi- 
nary. It  stands  twenty-four  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  above  the  sea,  with  a  broad,  naked  phiin 
belting  it,  and  the  snowy  mountains  to  the  north 
and  east,  miles  away,  keeping  constant  watcli 
over  it.  It  would  seem,  a  more  unfavorable 
spot  nowhere  else  in  Spain  could  have  been 
found.  It  was  established  there  by  Charles  V. 
and  Philip  II.,  because  they  thought  its  site 
was  the  centre  of  the  country.  They  allowed 
the  forests  to  be  cut  from  the  plains,  and  soon 
the  hot  suns  burned  up  the  smaller  vegetation 
and  baked  hard  the  surface  ;  such  is  the  setting 
of  Madrid,  overhung  with  the  perpetual  frost- 
work of  the  Guadararaa.  So  its  climate  is  con- 
stantly varying :  one  hour,  the  chilly  blasts  of 
the  north  are  beating  down  upon  it ;  the  next 
hour,  the  hot  winds  from  the  south  are  sweeping 
it ;  one  side  of  the  street  may  have  an  arctic 
temperature,  while  the  other  is  burning  with 
torrid  heat.  These  frequent  changes  render  it 
a  most  unhealthy  city;  still,  in  spite  of  all 
obstacles,  it  has  continued  to  grow,  till  now  it 
has  a  population  of  nearly  four  hundred  thou- 
sand, having  a  circumference  of  eight  miles, 
containing  eight  thousand  houses,  one  hundred 
and  forty-six  churches,  eighteen  hospitals,  thir- 


SPAIN   AND   MADRID.  113 

teen  colleges,  fifteen  iicademies,  fifteen  libraries, 
a  grand  palace,  a  beautiful  park,  and  one  ele- 
gant street.  The  buildiugs  are  made  of  brick 
and  stone,  and  generally,  high  and  crowded 
together;  the  streets  are  narrow  and  badly 
paved.  The  chief  business  of  the  city  appar- 
ently is  the  parading  of  soldiers  and  the  prom- 
enading and  loitering  of  the  citizens  in  public 
places.  The  people  differ  very  much  as  to  their 
size,  appearance-,  and  temperament.  Many 
faces  are  exceedingly  handsome,  and  others 
emphatically  ugly.  As  they  are  carefully  stud- 
ied, evident  traces  can  be  discovered  of  the 
Celt,  the  Greek,  the  Roman,  the  Moor,  the  Jew, 
and  the  Ostrogoth.  The  people  are  social  and 
very  fond  of  show.  In  the  afternoon  of  each 
day,  when  the  weather  is  favorable,  on  the  part 
of  the  higher  classes,  there  is  sure  to  be  a  dis- 
play in  the  public  places  of  silk  trailing-dresses 
and  costly  bonnets,  broadcloth  cloaks  and  fur 
hats.  In  airy  styles  they  far  outdo  Paris  or 
New  York.  The  taste  of  the  lower  classes 
appears  to  run  to  patchwork  and  party-colors. 
It  is  amusing  to  see  the  poor  creatures  in  their 
diversified  costumes.  Trade  and  work  here 
have  nothing  the  snap  of  Chicago  or  Liverpool. 
With  the  Spaniards  it  is  play  or  begging  first, 
and   then  work.      Their   mercantile   establish- 


114      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

ments  and  show-windows  would  not  compare 
favorably  with  those  of  Edinburgh  or  Boston. 
The  greatest  display  of  articles  for  sale  consists 
of  war  implements  and  dirk-knives.  The  high- 
est ambition  of  the  young  men  is  to  become 
matadores  and  picadors.  Their  idea  of  a  real 
hero  is  a  man  who  can  strike  down  a  furious 
bull  at  one  thrust  of  the  lance. 

In  the  schools,  there  is  the  greatest  lack 
of  system  and  thought.  In  fact  Spain  has  no 
well-organized  school  system  ;  their  government 
is  too  unstable  for  that.  The  king,  to-day, 
does  not  know  that  he  will  be  king  to-morrow. 
The  people  may  support  certiiin  political  meas- 
ures this  week,  and  reverse  them  the  next. 
There  is  a  constant  unrest,  or  fluctuation, 
throughout  the  land,  unless  it  be  while  the  peo- 
ple are  asleep,  which  is  usually  the  last  part  of 
the  night  and  the  hottest  portion  of  the  day. 
Little  assistance  is  received  from  their  religion, 
for  it  is  mainly  confined  to  the  lips  and  gestures. 
The  ranks  of  the  priesthood  are  crowded ;  for 
they  insure  respectability  and  ample  support. 

The  institution  which  has  the  strongest  hold 
upon  the  people  of  Madrid  is  the  bull-ring.  A 
low  class  of  theatres  is  well  patronized,  but  the 
bull-fights  move  and  bring  together  the  masses. 
These   are   advertised   on  the  largest  placards 


SPAIN    AND   MADRID.  115 

posted  in  conspicuous  places,  giving  the  num- 
ber of  animals  to  be  slain  and  the  names  of  the 
actors  who  are  to  contend  in  the  arena.  Every 
Sunday,  and  often  on  Monday,  these  cruel  exhi- 
bitions take  place,  except  a  little  while  daring 
the  very  coldest  weather.  The  ring  at  Madrid 
is  similar  to  the  Colosseum  at  Rome,  and  is  ca- 
pable of  seating  some  eight  thousand  spectators. 
As  the  matadores  and  picadors  enter  the  ring, 
attired  in  rich  and  gaudy  costumes,  the  excite- 
ment and  cheers  begin  ;  then,  as  the  door  opens 
and  the  wild  animal  springs  into  the  arena,  men, 
women,  and  children,  are  mad  with  excitement, 
and  delighted  to  see  the  horrible  contest  go  on ; 
the  more  enraged  the  animal,  and  the  more  cruel 
the  strife,  the  better  they  enjoy  it.  The  mata- 
dores and  picadors  who  make  successful  thrusts 
are  honored  with  the  greatest  applause ;  the 
crowd  salute  them,  and  some  of  the  women  of 
the  higher  ranks  show  them  special  deference, 
frequently  making  feasts  for  them  at  their  homes. 
Often  the  king  and  queen  are  in  attendance  at 
these  barbarous  exhibitions  ;  they  have  a  special 
box  fitted  up  and  kept  for  their  convenience. 
Public  opinion  seems  to  be  decidedly  in  favor  of 
these  amusements  ;  even  many  of  the  most  intel- 
ligent Spaniards  will  not  only  patronize  them, 
but  will  argue  in  their  favor  and  claim  for  them 


116      AFTER-THOUGFITS   OF   FOREIGN    TRAVEL. 

beneficial  results.  Is  it  strange  that  a  people 
in  such  a  condition  are  subject  to  repeated  rev- 
olutions, that  their  king's,  or  queen's  life,  is  in 
constant  jeopardy,  and  that  murders  and  rob- 
beries are  of  frequent  occurrence?  The  mys- 
tery is,  how  the  government  can  be  sustained 
for  any  length  of  time. 

The  most  inviting  place  in  Madrid  is  the 
museum  containing  a  few  rare  marbles  and 
more  than  two  thousand  pictures.  It  is  worthy 
every  way  to  ])e  classed  among  the  first  galleries 
of  Europe.  Some  two  hundred  and  fifty  of  the 
best  paintings  were  produced  by  Spanish  artists 
in  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries. 
These  works  represent  what  Spain  was  in  its 
palmiest  days.  Its  modern  paintings  are  few 
and  of  scarcely  any  note.  So  in  the  line  of  art, 
Spain  is  living  upon  the  past ;  but  it  is  far  other- 
wise with  France,  Germany,  and  England ; 
however,  it  is  fortunate  indeed,  it  has  this  boon  ; 
it  is  like  a  spring  in  a  parched  desert ;  it  is  like 
manna  in  the  wilderness ;  it  is  like  good  news 
in  a  far-ofi^  country :  we  cannot  stand  before 
these  noble  works  without  being  helped  and  in- 
spired with  the  loftiest  sentiments.  We  must 
feel  happy  emotions,  as  we  look  upon  Murillo's 
"Holy  Family,'  his  "Rebecca  at  the  Well,"  his 
"Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,"  his  "Child,  St. 


SPAIN   AND  MADRID.  117 

John"  ;  or  Velasquez'  "Adoration  of  the  Kings," 
his  "Christ  on  the  Cross,"  and  his  "Rome  " ;  or 
Rubens'  "Judgment  of  Paris,"  his  "Garden  of 
Love,"  and  his  "Peasant's  Dance";  or  Titian's 
"  Adam  and  Eve,"  his  "Ecce  Homo,"  and  his 
"  Christ  bearing  the  Cross"  ;  or  Raphael's  "Holy 
Family " ;  or  Van  Dyck's  "  Crowning  with 
Thorns " ;  and  many  other  pictures  of  very 
great  merit.  Ah !  the  influence  of  the  fine 
arts  is  benign  and  redeeming. 

The  art  galleries  of  Spain  are  about  her  only 
saving  agents.  It  is  true,  that  in  Madrid  and 
other  cities.  Protestantism  has  a  slight  footing, 
but  missionaries,  as  preachers,  can  do  little  in 
such  a  country.  What  she  needs  most  are  mis- 
sionaries, as  teachers,  who  will  instruct  the 
young  to  think  and  exercise  conscience  aright ; 
some  of  her  towns  are  ripe  for  such  a  work. 
But  where  are  the  laborers  ?  Who  will  support 
them?  The  Spaniards  cannot,  if  they  had  the 
will,  for  they  have  not  the  means  with  which 
to  do  it.  Alas !  the  mendicants  are  count- 
less now,  and  are  becoming  more  numerous 
every  day ;  piteously  and  importunately  they 
are  begging  for  bread.  The  soldiers  and  priests 
heed  not  their  cry,  but,  by  their  fast  living,  im- 
poverish them  all  the  more.  It  would  seem 
Spain  is  as  low  as  she  can  be.     We  can  but 


118      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

hope  some  Columbus,  or  Vasco  de  Gama,  or 
Tell,  or  Bruce,  or  Lincoln,  or  Garibaldi,  will 
come  forth  to  her  rescue,  who  will  be  able  to 
break  her  fetters  and  enable  the  people  to  help 
themselves.  What  a  blessing  to  the  nations,  it 
would  be,  if  Spain  again  could  shed  the  light 
she  did  three  centuries  nfro  I  What  a  l^lessins:  it 
would  be,  if  she  should  become  truly  Christian  ! 
So  favorably  situated,  her  light  would  shine 
over  the  Mediterranean,  casting  a  htilo  around 
Egypt,  Palestine,  Greece,  and  Italy ;  over  the 
Pyrenees  her  light  would  travel  to  France,  Swit- 
zerland, Germany,  and  the  Netherlands,  across 
the  Atlantic  to  England  and  America,  making 
millions  of  hearts  rejoice  and  be  glad  that  Spain 
was  henceforth  to  be  the  home  of  the  Christian, 
the  scholar,  and  artist. 


V. 

GERMANY  AND  BERLIN. 

TF  the  traveller  enters  Germany  by  the  way 
-^  of  Belgium  and  Holland,  he  soon  discovers 
that  he  is  in  a  low  country,  and  learns  the  full 
significance  of  the  term  Low  Dutch,  if  he  never 
comprehended  it  before.  He  can  scarcely  ftiil 
of  surprise,  as  he  finds  large  tracts  of  land  oc- 
cupied by  cities,  villages,  or  farms,  situated 
several  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  North  Sea, 
and  which  would  surely  be  submerged,  were 
it  not  for  the  artificial  dikes  that  have  been 
built  and  are  kept  in  repair  at  great  expense 
and  unyielding  industry.  This  land  is  the  gift 
of  the  sea  and  the  river.  Most  of  the  country 
north  of  France,  and  along  the  sea-coast  of 
Prussia,  is  fenced  off  by  canals.  The  wind-mills 
are  rising  conspicuously  on  every  hand,  and 
are  doing  faithful  service  in  lifting  the  water 
from  the  lower  to  higher  canals,  that  fields 
may  be  drained  and  soils  redeemed  from  the 
aqueous  element,  so  as  to  grow  corn  and  wheat 
in  abundance,  and  furnish  the  greenest  pastures 


120      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

for  droves  of  handsome  horses,  herds  of  thriv- 
ing cattle,  and  flocks  of  valuable  sheep. 

In  the  central  part  of  Germany,  table-lands 
abound.  These  are  diversified  with  undulating 
surfaces  and  smooth-sided  hills.  The  soil  is 
usually  well  adapted  to  tillage,  and  the  lands 
are  thickly  cut  up  into  farms  and  dotted  over 
with  cottages  and  barns.  The  vines  drop 
luscious  grapes  by  the  river-sides,  and  maize 
ripens  on  the  terraces.  The  peach  reaches  per- 
fection by  the  Rhine.  The  chestnut  and  walnut 
flourish  in  certain  districts.  The  oak  and  beech 
crown  the  hills,  and  the  elm  and  poplar  border 
the  streams. 

In  the  south  of  Germany  are  Alpine  heights, 
where  the  Rhine  and  Danube  take  their  rise. 
In  a  few  instances  the  mountains  ascend  so 
high,  as  to  be  covered  with  lasting  snows; 
however,  for  the  most  part,  the  land  here  is 
arable.  Broad  plains  stretch  out  from  Lake 
Constance  and  the  rivers.  Forests  of  ever- 
greens are  growing  on  the  highlands,  and 
orchards  of  apples  and  plums,  on  the  plains. 

In  area  Germany  now  is  larger  than  Califor- 
nia, but  smaller  than  Texas,  having  a  popula- 
tion of  more  than  forty-two  millions. 

As  we  travel  in  this  enlightened  country  at 
the  present  day,  feeling  the  influence    of  its 


GERMANY  AND   BERLIN.  121 

schools  and  religious  institutions,  we  can  but 
recall  the  time  when  barbarians  held  the  sway 
here,  and  Goths  and  Huns  were  lords  of  these 
realms.  Through  the  dim  light  of  history,  we 
catch  glimpses  of  tribes,  as  the  country  was  be- 
coming thickly  populated,  emigrating  to  other 
lands.  The  fierce  Vandals  were  foremost  in 
leaving  their  native  country,  taking  up  their 
abode  in  Spain  for  a  while,  and  finally  pushing 
their  w^ay  into  Africa.  The  Visigoths  after- 
wards followed  in  their  wake,  settling  in  South- 
ern France  and  in  portions  of  Spain.  Then  the 
Ostrogoths  pushed  over  the  Alps  and  subdued 
Italy.  Then  the  Franks  crossed  the  Rhine  and 
took  possession  of  what  is  now  France.  At 
length  the  Saxons  went  over  the  sea  and  cap- 
tured Britain.  We  can  readily  see  how  these 
Gothic  tribes  should  bear  away  with  them  simi- 
lar characteristics.  They  were  impatient  of 
restraint,  fond  of  war,  abhorred  indolence,  de- 
lighted in  excitement,  craved  independence,  and 
respected  woman.  The  AUemanni,  or  Ger- 
mans, who  remained  in  the  country,  were  never 
conquered.  The  Romans  found  in  them  a 
power  sufficient  to  withstand  their  severest  at- 
tacks. They  were  surprised  to  find  that  peo- 
ple of  light-blue  eyes,  fair  complexion,  and 
medium  stature,  more  than  their  equals.    Julius 


122      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

Caesar  himself  bears  testimony  of  their  valor, 
and  extols  their  indefatigable  bravery.  We 
read  how  they  believed  in  self-government,  and 
early  held  local  courts  which  were  presided 
over  by  magistrates  chosen  by  the  people. 
Their  leaders  were  elected  from  chiefs  most 
distinguished  for  brave  deeds.  Their  towns 
were  not  walled,  but  they  so  lived  that  each 
man  could  enjoy  his  own  family  and  homestead. 
They  delighted  to  till  the  soil,  herd  cattle,  hunt 
and  iish. 

Such  were  the  Germans  whence  came  the 
Anglicans  and  Saxons  in  the  fifth  century  of  our 
era,  who  settled  in  England  and  caused  that 
country  to  become  great  and  prosperous,  and 
whose  descendants  afterwards  came  to  America 
and  established  our  institutions  of  freedom  and 
culture. 

In  sailing  up  or  down  the  Rhine,  or  wander- 
ing in  other  parts  of  this  land,  we  can  scarcely 
fail  of  becoming  deeply  interested  in  the  ruined 
castles  which  cap  many  hills  and  guard  moun- 
tain-sides ;  for  they  are  clothed  with  stirring 
le«:euds  and  thrillinor  adventures.  These  take 
us  back  to  the  feudal  ages,  and  are  quite  certain 
to  revive  scenes  of  daring  knights,  courtly  no- 
bles, and  lordly  priests.  Let  fancy  picture  a 
scene  of  those  old  times.     Yonder  on  the  sum- 


GERMANY   AND   BERLIN.  123 

mit  of  rising  ground  stands  a  castle.  It  pre- 
sents, sometiow,  a  strange  and  formidable  ap- 
pearance. At  once  it  begets  within  us  a  sense  of 
awe.  It  seems  to  look  down  upon  the  surround- 
ing country  with  a  lordly  supremacy.  As  w^e  ap- 
proach it,  we  find  it  is  girdled  by  a  winding  moat. 
The  drawbridge  down,  we  cross  to  its  only  en- 
trance which  is  guarded  by  two  lofty  towers 
united  by  a  heavy  arclj.  Under  this  are  to  be 
seen  in  the  yawning  opening  the  iron  teeth  of 
the  portcullis,  ready  to  devour  any  foes  attempt- 
ing to  force  their  way  into  the  castle.  When 
fairly  within  the  walls,  there  rises  before  us  the 
lofty  keep  which  is  the  residence  of  the  feudal 
owner  and  his  family.  It  does  not  bear  the 
marks  of  beauty,  but  of  strength  and  security. 
Within,  it  is  cut  up  into  many  apartments 
which  are  small  and  comfortless.  The  liirht 
struggles  into  it  through  the  smallest  loop- 
holes. The  furniture  is  meagre  and  rude. 
The  great  hall  is  the  chief  room,  where  the 
baron  seated  on  his  dias  at  the  upper  end  is 
wont  to  preside  at  the  table  with  his  fiimily, 
and  sometimes  entertains  guests  at  banquets  and 
festivities.  Within  the  stone  fastnesses  the 
feudal  owner  enjoys  a  good  degree  of  safety. 
Powder  has  not  yet  been  invented,  and  can- 
non has  not  demolished  the  hugest  breastworks 


124      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

of  solid  masonry.  With  drawbridge  up  and 
portcullis  down,  the  inmates  have  nothing  to 
fear  from  spear,  battle-axe,  or  catapult. 

Let  us  now  ascend  the  battlements  of  the 
tower  and  have  a  survey  of  the  country  round. 
The  landscape  is  spotted  far  and  wide  wMth 
meadows,  woodland,  lake  and  river.  Now  and 
then  may  be  seen  residences  of  knights  and  no- 
bles ;  here  and  there  dwellings  of  villeins  ;  and 
still  farther  on,  the  huts  of  serfs.  While  gaz- 
ing, we  descry  among  the  trees  bordering  the 
way  to  the  barbican,  or  entrance  to  the  castle, 
glistening  of  spears  and  mailed  armor.  This  is 
the  lord  and  his  retinue  returning  from  his  sov- 
erei<]rn's  court,  where  he  has  been  doino^  homa^je 
to  his  barony.  Having  laid  aside  his  sword  and 
spurs,  with  hands  laid  in  those  of  his  monarch, 
he  swears  to  serve  him  with  life  and  limb  loy- 
ally forever.  Upon  this  he  is  clothed  with  new 
investiture,  showing  fullest  title  to  his  cas- 
tle and  realm.  With  great  joy  he  returns  to 
his  feudal  home,  conscious  that  he  has  added 
strength  to  his  government,  and  will  receive  in- 
creased homage  from  his  subjects. 

Really,  there  is  much  to  be  admired  in  this 
old  feudal  system.  It  had  its  mission  to  fulfil 
in  the  march  of  civilization.  It  certainly  did 
serve  to  nurture  fidelity  and  gratitude,  chastity 


GERMANY    AND   BERLIN.  125 

and  virtue.  In  the  castle,  at  least,  it  did  tend 
to  cultivate  respect  for  woman.  The  sweet 
charities  of  home  were  often  macle  to  blossom 
out  from  its  grimy  walls.  Still,  as  a  political 
system,  it  savored  not  of  democracy ;  it  left 
almost  everything  to  the  mercy  of  the  chief. 
It  favored  aristocracy,  but  not  the  commonality. 
On  the  whole,  it  was  a  severe  order  of  disci- 
pline ;  but,  like  the  storms  and  snows  of  winter, 
it  was  making  ready  for  the  bloom  of  spring- 
time. 

In  this  land  many  evidences  and  relics  serve 
to  show  that  the  Germans  were  early  devoted 
to  religious  thought  and  worship.  The  names 
which  we  apply  to  the  days  of  the  week,  are 
of  Saxon  origin,  and  plainly  indicate  divini- 
ties which  they  adored.  On  the  first  day  of 
the  week  they  worshipped  the  sun,  and  so  they 
called  it  Sun's  daeg,  and  we  have  changed  it 
to  Sunday ;  on  the  second  day  of  the  week 
they  served  the  moon,  and  so  it  was  named 
Moon's  daeg,  and  we  have  contracted  it  to  Mon- 
day. So  their  old  cathedrals  are  the  outcome 
and  expression  of  their  religious  fervor.  These 
are  grand  testimonies  of  religious  enthusiasm 
and  spiritual  aspiration.  In  fact,  Gothic  archi- 
tecture took  its  rise  here,  and  in  France  and 
England  about  the  same  time ;  and,  too,  when 


126       AFTER-TIIOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN    TRAVEL. 

the  northern  nations  of  Europe  were  inflamed  to 
a  red  heat  with  relii^ious  excitement.  It  was  dur- 
ing  the  Crusades  which  had  their  origin  the  last 
of  the  eleventh  century  that  hosts  from  Germany 
and  France  went  forth  to  fight  for  the  restora- 
tion of  the  cross  in  the  Holy  Land.  In  works  of 
art,  the  Greeks  had  borrowed  from  the  Egyp- 
tians, the  Romans  from  the  Greeks,  and  now 
the  Germans  from  the  Romans.  Still  there  was 
something  peculiar  to  this  land  and  people  ;  and 
though  they  borrowed  in  art-works  from  the 
past,  yet  they  so  remodelled  as  to  fashion  anew  ; 
and  hence  the  outcome  of  the  Gothic  style, 
which,  all  must  admit,  is  the  expression  of  pro- 
found religious  conviction. 

As  we  stand  near  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  and 
look  at  the  cathedral  of  Cologne,  we  can  scarce- 
ly, fail  of  being  convinced  that  that  structure  is 
deserving  to  be  called  the  St.  Peter's  of  Gothic 
architecture.  If  the  name  of  its  designer  has 
been  lost,  nevertheless,  it  testifies  concerning  a 
genius  of  taste  and  sublimity,  out  of  whose 
conception  sprung  surfaces,  columns,  arches, 
and  towers,  crystallizing  into  solid  stone  and 
fairest  beauty.  Though  commenced  five  hun- 
dred years  ago,  yet  it  is  but  recently  that  it  re- 
ceived its  finishing  touch.  Walk  within,  and 
its  nave,  aisles,  vaults,  pillars,  transepts,  and 


GERMANY   AND   BERLIN.  127 

windows,  can  but  impress  you  with  a  sense  of 
deep  religious  awe.  As  fact  rises  above  fact, 
we  cannot  doubt  that  its  phui  originated  in  one 
man,  whose  soul  was  that  of  a  poet  and  proph- 
et, and  who,  by  his  works,  like  Angelo  and 
Raphael,  was  beckoning  humanity  heavenward. 
As  we  take  a  position  in  front  of  Strasburg 
Cathedral,  where  we  can  have  a  good  view  of 
the  noble  Yosges  and  the  Black  Forest,  sepa- 
rated by  the  most  picturesque  river  of  Europe, 
be  it  at  mid-day,  or  when  the  stars  are  lustrous 
and  the  moon  is  radiant,  that  lofty  structure 
seems  a  glorious  work  of  beauty  and  grandeur. 
It  appears  like  a  masterpiece  of  strength  and 
light,  almost  worthy  to  have  been  dropped  from 
Paradise.  It  is  the  highest  human  structure  in 
the  world.  Should  it  be  placed  beside  the 
pyramid  of  Cheops,  it  would  tower  above  it  by 
twenty-four  feet ;  though  the  cross  of  St.  Peter's 
is  lifted  so  high  into  the  sky,  still  the  spiro 
of  Strasburg  Cathedral  rises  forty  feet  higher. 
Prospecting  from  the  plats  below,  the  whole 
structure  is  clothed  with  an  airy,  celestial  appear- 
ance, yet  firm,  broad,  and  easy.  The  union  of 
facade,  tower,  and  spire,  is  harmonious  and 
complete.  Passing  within,  we  are  struck  with 
its  massiveness  of  outline  and  solidity  of  pro- 
portions, its  height  and  breadth,  and  its   rich 


128      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

yellowish  tinge.  Its  astronomical  clock  and 
monuments  are  matters  of  interest ;  but  these 
are  trifles  compared  with  the  building  itself: 
this  speaks  of  the  loftiness  of  the  mind,  the 
divinity  of  the  soul,  and  the  expectancy  of  the 
heart,  to  dwell  in  the  temple  not  made  with 
hands. 

The  cathedral  at  Mayence  of  red  sandstone 
and  quaint  style ;  the  one  at  Ulm,  with  its  gro- 
tesque shapes  without,  and  extraordinary  mag- 
nitude within ;  the  one  at  liatisbon,  which  King 
Ludwig  caused  to  be  renewed  and  refurnished  ; 
and  the  one  at  Magdeburg,  with  the  figures  of 
saints  cut  into  its  walls,  —  all  are  expressive  of 
religious  fervor,  assuring  us,  if  minds  and 
hearts  had  not  been  devoted  to  prayer  and 
praise,  these  wondrous  expressions  of  Gothic 
architecture  would  not  have  been  conceived, 
and  much  less  built  into  such  sublime  forms  of 
grandeur  and  beauty. 

From  these  hoary  structures,  it  is  evident 
that  Gothic  architecture  is  the  outcome  of  reli- 
gious enthusiasm  which  signally  prevailed  from 
the  eleventh  to  the  fourteenth  century.  But 
from  the  dawn  of  the  Reformation,  art-inspira- 
tion began  to  wane.  If  dogmas  were  changed 
for  the  better,  and  society  was  improved,  it  is 
certain  there  was  a  decrease  of  relio^ious  sensi- 


GERMANY   AND    BERLIN.  129 

bility.  The  currents  of  thought  were  turned 
from  the  ideal  to  the  actual,  from  the  spiritual 
to  the  visible.  Tlie  Reformers  were  disposed 
at  lirst  to  reject  even  the  good  in  Romanism. 
Protestantism,  as  yet,  has  not  given  to  the 
world  a  «:reat  genius  in  art.  The  last  of  the 
heroic  artists  were  Rubens  and  Vandyke,  who 
were  Catholics ;  however,  art  to-day  finds  some 
of  its  best  patrons  and  most  appreciative  ad- 
mirers among  Protestants.  Cultivated  religion 
is  bound  to  worship  in  grand  temples  and  beau- 
tiful churches.  However  much  we  may  admire 
these  old  cathedrals,  there  are  other  objects  of 
still  greater  interest  to  the  scholar  and  Chris- 
tian, as  they  journey  through  this  land. 

In  the  town  of  Wittenberg,  which  is  small 
and  evidently  becoming  less,  is  the  house  of 
Martin  Luther,  which  is  a  humble  structure 
situated  in  the  outskirts  of  the  little  city.  From 
its  outward  appearance  we  certainly  should  not 
be  drawn  towards  it,  yet  somehow,  it  does  allure 
and  at  once  almost  fascinates  ;  it  stirs  inuerly 
and  takes  hold  of  the  heart.  The  very  walls 
seem  to  say,  "  We  hold  the  secrets  of  a  great 
man."  We  pass  within  to  the  low-roofed  cham- 
ber where  Luther  was  wont  to  think  and  study. 
It  i8  pretty  much  as  the  famous  occupant  left  it. 
The  masonry,  the  frame-work,  round-paned  win- 


130      AFTER-TIIOUGIITS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

(lows,  the  oaken  table,  the  "professor's  chair,'* 
some  needle- work  of  his  beloved  Catherine  de 
Bora,  his  beer-cup,  psalter,  and  other  relics, 
remain  quite  where  Luther  last  used  them.  It 
is  true,  coveting  hands  and  blades  have  clipped 
away  from  the  table  and  woodwork  bits  of 
remembrances.  Wo  cannot  think,  this  is 
wrong ;  for  it  is  the  result  of  love  and  good- 
will. It  is  natural  to  feel  that  a  great  man  be- 
longs to  the  world,  and  the  things  which  he 
handled,  after  his  death,  become  common  prop- 
erty. In  this  room  the  great  reformer's  soul 
was  so  disciplined,  he  dared  to  do  for  the  right. 
Perhaps,  over  that  heavy  table,  he  finished  his 
translation  of  the  Bible,  which  he  commenced 
while  in  exile  at  Wartburg.  No  doubt  he  often 
bent  over  it  in  prayer,  and  so  became  strong  for 
action.  Here  he  prepared  those  theological 
lectures  which,  when  he  delivered  them  in  the 
university,  shook  the  whole  of  Germany  and  the 
Christian  world.  Here  ha  tore  in  pieces  the 
sophisms  of  Aristotle,  fashioned  a  new  gram- 
mar for  his  nation,  and  composed  those  theses 
which  demolished  the  indulgence  theory  and 
the  infallibility  of  the  pope.  A  chamber  in 
which  such  w^ork  has  been  done,  ought  to  be 
remembered  and  kept  sacred  for  all  tin>e. 
In  another  part  of  the  city  is  the  university, 


GERMANY    AND   BERLIN.  131 

to  which  Luther  was  called  from  the  cloisters 
of  Erfurt  to  the  chair  of  philosophy  wheu  but 
twenty- five  years  old.  As  he  began  to  lecture 
and  preach  before  the  students,  his  tongue 
stammered  and  his  heart  quailed ;  but  as  he 
was  consecrated  to  duty,  it  was  not  long  before 
the  youthful  monk  was  surprising  the  most 
learned  scholars  with  his  eloquence  and  new 
doctrines.  Soon  he  was  promoted  and  appoint- 
ed Biblical  Baccalaureate  and  lecturer  on  theol- 
ogy. In  this  new  position,  he  surpassed  the 
highest  expectations,  and  his  fame  quickly  be- 
came far-reaching ;  students  were,  drawn  to 
Wittenberg  from  Prague,  Leipsic,  Heidelberg, 
and  the  farthest  points  of  Europe.  If  the  old 
university  is  no  longer  crowded  with  students, 
it  is  full  of  the  richest  memories. 

In  the  Palace  Church  situated  in  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  town,  are  the  graves  of  Luther 
and  Melancthon.  On  the  walls  hang  life-size 
pictures  of  the  two  reformers.  On  the  oak 
door  of  this  church  Luther  nailed  his  ninety- 
five  Latin  theses  which  were  like  bombs  hurled 
into  the  religious  camp,  blowing  priestly  creeds 
and  superstitions  into  flitters.  Only  a  little 
way  ofi'from  the  church,  just  outside  the  Elster 
gate,  on  the  banks  of  the  Elbe,  stands  a  thrifty 
oak,  marking  the  spot  where   Luther,   in  the 


132      AFTER-THOUGHTS    OF   FOEEIGN    TRAVEL. 

presence  of  his  students,  burned  the  Papal 
bull  which  set  on  fire  the  Romanish  Church. 
Surely  Wittenberg  in  its  wasting  condition, 
is  all  alive  with  the  inspiring  associations  of - 
the  reformer,  poet,  musician,  and  tremendous 
actor. 

If  the  traveller  is  interested  in  the  Reforma- 
tion, he  cannot  afford  to  fail  of  visiting  the 
small  town  of  Worms,  which  is  situated  near 
the  banks  of  the  Rhine.  It  is  an  ancient  town, 
having  existed  before  the  Romans  invaded  the 
country,  and  was  afterwards  an  imperial  city. 
It  was  a  favorite  resort  for  Charlemagne ;  but 
it  is  especially  noted  for  the  diet  of  Worms, 
which  was  in  session  on  the  17th  of  April, 
1521.  This  was  an  august  assembly,  com- 
posed of  the  young  emperor,  Charles  the  Fifth, 
with  all  the  priests,  papal  nuncios,  and  Cath- 
olic dignitaries  of  Germany.  Before  this  body 
Luther  had  been  summoned  to  appear,  that 
he  might  recant,  or  receive  condemnation. 
Hosts  of  Protestants  were  in  the  city,  fearing 
and  dreading  consequences.  As  they  recalled 
the  fate  of  Huss,  they  felt  Luther  ought  not  to 
enter  that  diet ;  and  so,  on  his  approach,  a 
party  went  forth  to  meet  him,  hoping  they 
should  be  able  to  turn  him  back.  But  to  their 
entreaties   he   replied,    "Were  there   as  many 


GERMANY    AND   BERLIN.  133 

devils  in  Worms  as  there  are  roof-tiles,  I  would 
on."  As  he  went  to  the  hall  of  the  diet,  many 
hearts  prayed  that  he  mio^ht  be  sustained,  and 
others  that  he  might  be  speedily  crushed  to  the 
earth.  The  reformer  was  lost  in  the  sense  of 
duty,  and  for  two  hours  he  fearlessly  faced 
king  and  priest,  declaiming  for  freedom  of  con- 
science and  liberation  from  superstition.  "Here 
stand  I,"  he  said;  "I  can  do  no  other.  God 
assist  me  !  " 

This  is  the  most  signal  event  of  modern  his- 
tory. It  was  a  new  birth  of  civil  and  religious 
liberty.  The  very  dust  of  Worms  now  cries 
aloud  in  praise  of  the  brave  man  who  dared  to 
strike  religious  tyranny  to  t'he  earth,  and  raise 
conscience  into  the  sunlight  of  Christian  liberty. 

Still  another  old  town,  to  which  we  are 
drawn  by  the  force  of  the  Reformation,  is 
Augsbui'g,  occupying  a  broad,  open  plain  close 
upon  the  waters  of  the  Danube.  This  was  once 
an  imperial  town,  but  its  ancient  splendors  have 
passed  away,  and  its  principal  streets  are  now 
almost  as  still  in  the  day  as  in  the  silence  of 
night ;  yet  there  are  witnesses  here  and  there 
of  its  vanished  greatness.  Verily,  a  halo  of 
glory  broods  around  its  time-worn  towers. 
As  we  wal^  its  streets,  we  are  reminded  of 
the  15th   of  June,   1530,  when   the   emperor, 


134      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

Charles  the  Fifth,  was  approaching  this  city. 
The  mass  of  the  people  went  forth  to  greet  him. 
The  king  was  kingly  in  his  bearing.  His  coun- 
tenance was  stern  and  grave.  The  procession 
conducted  him  up  the  Maximilian  Strasse  to  the 
cathedral,  where  a  Te  Deum  was  sung,  and  the 
Romanish  Legate  Campeggio  pronounced  the 
benediction.  On  the  next  day  followed  the  fes- 
tival of  the  Holy  Body  of  Christ,  and  all  per- 
sons in  Augsburg  were  required  by  imperial 
command  to  observe  the  day  and  take  part  in 
the  services  at  the  cathedral.  Of  course  the 
Protestants  could  not  submit,  and  Margrave 
George,  of  Brandenburg,  told  the  emperor, 
^^  Before  he  would  so  betray  God  and  his  gos- 
pel, he  would  kneel  down  before  his  majesty 
and  suffer  his  head  to  be  hewn  from  his  body." 
This  was  signiticant,  and  plainly  indicated  that 
something  remedial  must  be  done  on  the  part 
of  emperor  and  priest.  Protestantism  Was  no 
longer  to  submit  to  the  edict  of  Worms,  which 
condemned  Luther  and  repressed  his  writings ; 
so  on  the  25th  of  June,  1530,  it  was  reluc- 
tantly decided  that  the  Protestant  Confession 
should  be  read  publicly  in  the  cathedral.  At 
the  appointed  meeting,  Charles  was  seated  on  a 
raised  dias,  surrounded  by  his  Catholic  princes 
and  clergy.     Opposite  sat  the  nobles  and  doc- 


GERMANY   AND   BERLIN.  135 

tors  of  the  Protestant  party.  Luther  was  not 
there ;  he  had  voluntarily  remained  behind  at 
Coburg ;  but  his  place  was  filled  by  a  worthy 
and  competent  representative  who  was  of  small 
stature,  with  a  high  forehead,  pleasant  blue 
eye,  and  mild,  contemplative  face.  Such  was 
Philip  Melancthon  outwardly,  but  innerly  he 
was  scholarly,  spiritual,  and  profound.  He  was 
present  with  a  Confession  of  Faith,  which  he  had 
carefully  prepared,  and  which  must  be  regarded 
as  the  first  full  statement  and  intelliojent  di^jest 
of  Protestant  belief  ever  published  to  the  world. 
When  it  was  sent  to  Luther,  and  he  read  it,  he 
saidv  "This  is  sufficient."  As  it  was  read  in 
that  imposing  assemblj^  at  Augsburg,  king  and 
sympathizer  were  so  overwhelmed  that  they 
dared  not  undertake  to  suppress  it ;  and  so 
Protestantism  for  the  first  time  was  publicly 
acknowledged  a  fact  in  Augsburg,  and  its  old 
church  was  crowned  with  the  lasting  honor  of 
witnessing  the  first  victory  of  the  reformer 
over  the  pope. 

Over  all  the  face  of  Germany  the  legendary 
light  flickers,  and  sprites  haunt  the  groves,  and 
fairy  creatures  sing  by  the  streams.  The  Ger- 
mans remind  us  in  many  ways  of  the  nature- 
loving  Greeks-  They  have  their  retired  and 
bosky  retreats,  their  naiads  and  fauns,  their  Pan 


136   AFTER- THOUGHTS  OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

and  Bacchus.  Their  scholars,  dramatists,  ora- 
tors, poets,  and  artists,  are  wont  to  cluster  to- 
gether, as  did  the  old  Athenians.  Their  centre, 
or  meeting-place,  must  be  where  nature  is 
unique  and  varied ;  where  the  day  smiles  and 
the  night  is  propitious  ;  where  fountains  sparkle 
and  flowers  bloom  ;  where  birds  sing  and  winds 
regale.  Such  a  place  is  Weimar.  Nature  has 
done  much  to  render  it  attractive,  but  man, 
more.  Its  buildings,  occupied  by  its  few  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  are  mainl}'  inviting  in  form 
and  style ;  but  these  do  little  towards  making 
the  town  enticing  to  the  pilgrim  stranger,  com- 
pared with  the  gifted  minds  that  dwelt  here  for 
a  series  of  years.  Here  lived  Goethe,  the 
prophet  of  the  philosophical  and  the  profound  ; 
Schiller,  the  poet  of  the  people,  and  their  spark- 
ling genius ;  Herder,  the  myriad-minded  stu- 
dent and  scholar ;  and  Wieland,  the  translator 
and  publisher.  Were  not  these  talented  souls 
enough  to  create  a  modern  Athens?  What 
thrillino:  associations  and  touchinsf  beauties  hover 
around  spots  where  such  men  wrought !  Trees 
may  decay  and  rocks  may  crumble  away ;  but 
moral  worth  and  intellectual  greatness  are  con- 
stantly accumulating  and  towering. 

The   house  of  Schiller  continues  nearly  the 
same  as   he   left  it.      It  is  a  small  two-story 


GERMANY   AND   BERLIN.  137 

building.  The  rooms  are  quaint  and  simple. 
In  one  of  these  we  can  see  his  library  which  is 
not  large  but  composed  of  choice  books,  the 
desk  and  table  on  which  he  penned  thoughts 
that  live  and  burn,  and  his  harp  and  piano 
whose  chords  and  keys  he  would  touch,  to  woo 
the  muses  to  his  aid. 

The  houses  of  the  other  gifted  ones  are  not 
exhibited  to  strangers.  The  ducal  palace  and 
park,  the  grand  ducal  library  of  a  hundred  and 
forty  thousand  volumes,  the  theatre  which  was 
under  the  superintendence  of  Goethe  and  Schil- 
ler, and  the  cemetery  where  rests  the  mortal  of 
these  immortals,  are  favorite  resorts  to  strangers 
who  have  been  stirred  l)y  "Faust"  and  thrilled 
by  "William  Tell."  The  Germans  hold  Goethe 
in  holy  reverence  at  a  distance ;  but  Schiller 
they  clasp  to  their  hearts  in  tenderest  love. 
The  former  was  born  at  Frankfort-on-the-Main, 
and  the  latter  at  Gohlis.  Whatever  they 
touched,  or  looked  upon,  at  least,  savors  of  the 
divine.  Their  monuments  already  are  many, 
which  have  sprung  up  almost  by  magic  from  the 
soil  and  the  hearts  that  they  have  touched ; 
and  they  are  certain  to  multiply  as  the  world 
shall  grow  into  their  acquaintance.  Noble  char- 
acters progress  through  the  ages. 

The  Germans  not  only  love  poetry  and  honor 


138      AFTER-TIIOUGnTS    OF   FOREIGN    TRAVEL. 

their  poets,  but,  during  the  present  century,  they 
have  l)een  passionately  inspired  by  gifted  minds 
with  a  fondness  for  science  and  the  facts  of  this 
world.  This  intensity  of  thought,  if  it  was  not 
first  kindled  in  Potsdam,  received  largely  fuel 
and  renewed  ignition  from  that  city  which  is  a 
few  miles  from  Berlin,  and  one  of  the  finest  and 
most  regularly  built  towns  in  Germany.  Its 
royal  castle,  and  new  buildings  ornamented  with 
statuary,  render  it  notable ;  but  the  fact  of  its 
being  the  birthplace  of  Alexander  von  Hum- 
boldt makes  it  a  Mecca  to  all  travellers  inter- 
ested in  science  and  natural  hi;story.  Not  far 
from  the  town  is  the  chateau  of  Tegee,  where, 
on  the  14th  of  September,  1769,  the  child 
Humboldt  first  made  his  appearance  among  mor- 
tal thinofs.  Here  it  was  that  Alexander  and  his 
brother  William  played,  and  here  he  listened  to 
the  glowing  narration  of  George  Foster,  con- 
cerning the  wonders  of  foreign  lands,  and  his 
heart  was  fired  with  a  desire  to  become  a  natu- 
ralist. In  the  right  way  he  went  to  work,  dis- 
ciplining his  mind  during  long  years  in  the 
schools .  under  the  tuition  of  the  best  minds. 
At  length,  being  well  equipped,  he  went  forth 
to  gather  up  from  the  lands  of  the  earth  ines- 
timable treasures  of  geology,  ethnography, 
and    geography.      As    he   returned    from    his 


GERMANY   AND   BERLIN.  139 

explorations,  honored  men  flocked  to  hear 
and  see  him.  He  wrought  with  scholars  who 
were  foremost  in  the  march  of  science.  Gay 
Lussac,  Leopold  de  Buch,  and  Anigo,  soon  ac- 
knowledged him  a  mental  prince.  Monarchs 
delighted  to  confer  upon  him  honors  of  knight- 
hood. As  the  evening  of  life  came  upon  him, 
calmly  we  see  him  in  his  adopted  city,  with  his 
mind  full  of  pictures  of  the  natural  world,  and 
his  heart  flush  with  love  to  God,  engaged  in  a 
colossal  enterprise,  —  one  too  daring,  it  would 
seem,  for  the  most  talented  when  the  currents 
of  life  run  swiftest ;  but  Humboldt  felt,  we 
judge,  as  did  Dry  den, 

"  A  setting  sun 
Should  leave  a  track  of  glory  in  the  skies." 

His  track  of  glory  is  the  "Cosmos."  In  this 
work  he  passes  in  review  the  vastest  amount  of 
human  knowledge.  In  it  he  has  wedded  the  ex- 
actness of  mathematics  and  the  ideal  of  poetry. 
The  "Cosmos"  is  the  "Iliad"  of  this  modern 
Homer.  See  him,  eighty-seven  years  old,  pen- 
ning out  its  immortal  lines ;  or  observe  him  on 
his  way  to  the  court  of  the  king.  He  is  some- 
what stooping,  slow  but  firm  of  step,  very 
simply  dressed,  carrying,  perchance,  a  pam- 
phlet in  his  hand.     All  in  Berlin,  or  Potsdam, 


140      AFTER-TIIOUGIITS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

know  him,  as  he  is  passing,  and  reverently  say 
to  each  other,  "There  goes  Humboldt." 

So  the  great  man  worked  on  till  the  5th  of 
May,  18G0.  As  the  sun  of  an  afternoon  was 
shining  into  his  room,  he  was  translated  while 
exclaiming,  "  How  glorious  are  these  rays  ;  they 
seem  to  call  the  earth  to  heaven."  Tenderly, 
kings,  scholars,  and  commonalties,  bore  his  re- 
mains to  his  native  city,  and  there  sacredly 
entombed  them.  Thus  a  sweet,  fruitful,  and 
beneficent  character  passed  to  the  immortal.  It 
does  us  good  to  review  it,  and  look  on  those 
things  which  Humboldt  touched,  and  realize  that 
he  thought  the  earth,  sea,  and  sky,  were  richer 
than  bankers'  vaults,  or  sovereigns'  jewels.  To 
remember  and  ponder  such  a  life  cannot  fail  of 
producing  more  life. 

The  lover  of  music  will  count  it  among  his 
fortunate  experiences  to  have  heard  some  of  the 
compositions  of  the  great  masters  of  melody 
performed  in  their  responsive  land.  He  will 
rank  it  with  seeing  the  high  Alps,  or  the  mighty 
pyramids.  In  German  music  there  is  a  ming- 
ling of  soul  and  passion ;  however,  the  intel- 
lectual outweighs  the  emotional.  This  is  not 
the  case  in  Italy ;  the  feeling  there  controls  the 
mental.  As  one  listens  to  some  of  Mozart's 
exquisite  instrumental  pieces,  it  seems  as  though 


GERMANY   AND   BERLIN.  141 

two  opposing  forces  were  contending  for  the 
mastery.  The  one  is  storming,  thundering, 
trampling,  and  overcoming ;  while  the  other  is 
soothing,  entreating,  winning,  and  finally  gains 
the  victory  of  love  and  truth.  Or  let  one  listen 
to  a  composition  of  Beethoven :  for  instance, 
the  piece  composed  as  he  felt  deafness  com- 
ing upon  himself.  It  opens  with  a  stroke 
of  horror  and  dismay.  For  some  time,  it  ap- 
pears as  though  there  could  be  no  submission  to 
the  misfortune.  The  wail  in o^  and  resistini?  are 
frightful ;  but  at  length,  glimmering,  tremulous 
hopes  begin  to  express  themselves.  By-and-by, 
the  soul  is  cheered  with  the  reflection  that  music 
is  from  within,  and  that  when  the  ear  shall  be 
deaf,  the  soul  can  draw  melodies  altogether  from 
the  spiritual ;  that  when  the  groans  of  mortality 
can  no  lonn^er  be  heard,  the  harmonies  of  angels 
will  swell  the  heart. 

Another  striking  characteristic  in  German 
music  is  its  dramatic  quality.  As  we  listened 
to  the  "Trial  Scene,"  as  it  was  brought  out  by 
the  orchestra  at  Dresden,  it  was  wild  and  furi- 
ous in  action  at  times.  When  the  words  "Cru- 
cify Him"  were  reached,  the  notes  jarred,  roared, 
and  thundered,  filling  the  very  air  with  conster- 
nation. So  it  was  with  "  The  Creation,"  as  we 
heard  it  expressed  in  Berlin.     Its  effects,  how- 


142      AFTER-TnOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

ever,  were  not  depressing  but  full  of  encourage- 
ment. Particularly  was  this  the  case  as  the  or- 
chestra came  to  the  word  '^  light."  Surely  there 
was  light  then ;  and  the  heavens  were  radiant 
with  glory.  No  wonder  that  Haydn,  its  com- 
poser, while  once  listening  to  it,  as  it  was  being 
successfully  performed,  with  streaming  eyes  and 
uplifted  hands,  should  exclaim,  "Not  from  me, 
—  it  came  from  heaven." 

Leipsic  at  the  present  time  is  the  musical 
centre  of  Germany.  Here  some  of  the  best 
talent  of  the  world  is  earnestly  at  work,  further 
developing  the  science  and  perfecting  the  art  of 
music.  Certainly  since,  and,  possibly,  before, 
Luther  composed  his  "  Choral "  on  the  way  to 
the  diet  of  Worms,  music  in  this  land  has  been 
regarded,  at  least,  one  of  the  divine  arts.  Let 
Germany  lead  on  in  this  noble  cause,  and  she 
will  be  likely  to  add  to  her  galaxy  of  illustrious 
musical  names  others  as  brilliant  as  those  of 
Luther,  Mozart,  Ha3^dn,  and  Beethoven. 

Art  in  this  country  is  loved  and  really  wor- 
shipped. The  rich  and  poor  are  attracted  to- 
wards the  artist.  All  delisrht  to  do  homa^^e  at 
his  shrine.  He  is  honored  in  the  palace  and  in 
the  public  square.  His  studio  is  the  pride  of 
the  city  and  the  country.  His  pictures,  or 
statues,  are  more  precious  than  gold  or  rubies ; 


GERMANY    AND   BERLIN.  143 

SO  the  people  generally  take  pride  in  exhibiting 
the  works  of  their  artists,  which  are  numerous 
in  their  own  and  in  foreign  countries.  With 
special  satisfaction  they  point  to  the  produc- 
tions of  Durer,  Holbein,  Rembrandt,  Van  Dyck, 
and  Rubens.  After  seeing  Rubens'  '^Descent 
from  the  Cross,"  Van  Dyck's  portraits,  Rem- 
brandt's "Sacrifice  of  Isaac,"  Holbein's  altar- 
pieces,  and  Durer's  "Adoration  of  tlie  kings," 
we  cannot  think  strano^e  that  the  Germans 
should  cling  fondly  to  these  geniuses,  as  well 
as  hundreds  of  others. 

In  the  Pinakothek  of  Munich  there  are  eighty- 
eight  pictures  of  Rubens,  which  comprise  but  a 
small  part  of  all  he  painted.  As  we  study 
them,  we  can  scarcely  conceive  how  it  was  pos- 
sible for  one  man  to  illumine  the  canvas  with 
such  an  amount  of  striking  colors.  Rubens  is 
truly  the  Titian  of  the  North. 

Rembrandt  known  as  the  King  of  Shadows, 
has  nineteen  pictures  in  this  gallery.  Standing 
before  them,  we  discover  supernatural  gleams 
and  lustrous  glooms  ;  figure  after  figure  emerges 
from  its  shadowy  background,  as  though  they 
grew  out  of  the  canvas  while  we  gaze.  We 
are  often  led  to  wonder  whether  these  are  actual, 
or  the  creations  of  fancy.  Here,  too,  is  Van 
Dyck  in  his  regal  splendor,  being  represented 


144      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

by  tlurty-ninc  of  his  paiutings.  Here,  also,  is 
Albert  Durer  looking  down  from  the  walls. 
As  we  compare  his  portrait  by  himself  with  that 
of  Riiphael  by  himself,  and  one  of  Giorgione 
by  himself,  it  loses  nothing  by  the  comparison. 
Certainly  Diirer's  is  beautiful,  while  Raphael's 
is  saintly,  and  Giorgione's  is  sublime. 

In  this  gallery,  as  well  as  in  most  of  the 
others  of  Germany,  there  are  m;niy  first-class 
pictures.  The  building  itself,  its  rooms  and 
adjustments,  are  expressive  of  art. 

But  the  gallery  which  is  far-famed  above  all 
others  is  the  one  at  Dresden ;  and  its  attrac- 
tion is  mainly  due  to  the  fact  that  it  contains 
Raphael's  "Madonna  del  Sisto."  Well,  this  is 
enough  to  immortalize  one  gallery.  As  we 
stand  in  front  of  the  picture,  contemplating  its 
perfection,  we  feel  like  holding  profoundest 
silence.  It  appears  too  ineffable  and  divine  to 
be  talked  about.  Its  power,  like  the  still  small 
voice  of  God,  is  to  be  felt.  Looking  upon  it  day 
after  day,  it  keeps  growing  in  our  admiration, 
as  though  it  were  a  work  let  fall  from  heaven, 
all  the  while  being  lighted  up  with  fresh  celes- 
tial beauties.  Those  features  of  the  Madonna, 
so  placid  yet  full  of  significance ;  those  eyes,  so 
radiant  with  internal  light;  that  attitude,  so 
graceful ;    that    Christ-child,  so    tenderly   and 


GERMANY  AND   BERLIN.  145 

sweetly  embraced,  as  though  just  descended 
from  on  high ;  that  face  of  St.  Barbara,  imply- 
ing she  is  taking  her  last  look  of  the  mortal ; 
that  expression  of  St.  Sixtus  is  laden  with 
faith,  hope,  and  charity;  and  lastly,  those 
cherubs  below  are  the  types  of  childish  rapture 
and  sweetest  inspiration.  The  whole  is  harmo- 
nious and  complete,  the  perfection  of  the  real 
and  ideal,  the  union  of  heaven  with  earth. 

The  Germans  display  as  much  love  for  sculp- 
tures as  paintings.  In  the  Glyptothek  at  Mu- 
nich, we  discover  more  than  a  small  Vatican  of 
marbles.  Truly  this  city  reminds  us  of  ancient 
Greece,  as  to  its  style  of  architecture  and  taste 
for  art-works.  So  King  Ludwig  ransacked 
Grecian  hills  and  plains,  and  delved  into  the 
ruins  of  their  wasted  cities,  disclosing  immortal 
marbles  with  which  to  adorn  his  native  city. 
Accordingly,  the  Glyptothek  was  constructed 
with  its  appropriate  halls  having  floors  of  mar- 
ble, walls  of  variegated  stucco,  and  ceilings  or- 
namented with  mythical  figures  and  paintings 
showing  the  rise,  progress,  and  decline  of  sculp- 
ture. In  one  hall  we  see  the  restored  Ilioneus, 
the  perfection  of  blooming  youth  and  unspeak- 
able beauty  and  innocence ;  in  another  apart- 
ment, we  witness  the  sculptures,  that  once  deco- 
rated the  temple  of  Minerva  at  -^gina.     They 


146      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

still  breathe  out  thrilling  inspiration,  asserting 
themselves  as  the  enduring  heroes  of  the  "Iliad." 
^neas,  Paris,  Hector,  Ajax,  and  Laomedon,are 
apparently  all  ready  for  duty.  Had  not  the 
Grecian  sculptors  been  poets  and  creators,  the 
marble  never  would  have  grown  divine  under 
their  hands. 

As  we  come  to  the  statue  of  Leucothea,  em- 
bracing: the  child  Bacchus,  we  no  lon£:er  think 
it  strange  that  so  many  have  been  entranced, 
while  gazing  upon  its  naturalness  and  perfection 
of  every  part.  This  work  alone  is  sufficient  to 
crown  Phidias  as  the  champion  with  the  chisel 
and  mallet. 

Besides  many  modern  sculptures  in  this  gal- 
lery, there  are  a  hundred  and  forty-seven  rare 
speciniens  of  ancient  art.  • 

Another  exhibition  of  statuary,  which  the 
traveller  cannot  afford  to  miss,  is  the  museum 
connected  with  the  bronze  foundry  of  Munich. 
Here  are  to  be  seen  the  models  of  most  of  the 
metal  statuary  of  the  civilized  world,  which  is 
gracing  doors,  squares,  commons,  and  pinnacles. 
Here  is  an  opportunity  to  contrast  the  repre- 
sentatives and  ideals  of  different  nationalities. 
Our  Lincoln,  Washington,  Mann,  and  Webster, 
hold  prominent  positions  among  these  art- 
works. 


GERMANY  AND  BERLIN.  147 

The  statue  of  Bavaria,  which  stands  just  out- 
side of  the  city  in  a  beautiful  meadow,  is  the 
lai'gest  bronze  statue  ever  cast.  Its  height  is 
eighty-four  feet.  The  Rumshall,  a  Doric  por- 
tico resembling  the  Propylaea  of  ancient  Athens, 
encircling  the  huge  statue  in  part,  is  becoming 
tilled  with  statues  and  busts,  to  perpetuate  the 
fame  of  this  country. 

So  it  is,  in  most  of  the  German  cities  are  to 
be  seen  beautiful  specimens  of  statuary,  plainly 
showing  that  the  people  believe  in  their  nation- 
ality and  noble  characters,  and  aim  to  hold 
them  in  lasting  remembrance.  Evidently  this 
is  the  only  way  for  a  nation  to  build  securely. 
If  the  virtues  of  the  wise  and  good  are  not 
handed  down  in  every  possible  way  from  gener- 
ation to  generation,  civilization  will  of  necessity 
wane.  It  is  plain  the  Germans  understand  this 
fact,  and,  therefore,  are  making  the  most  possi- 
ble out  of  their  works  of  art.  These  cannot 
fail  to  impress  favorably  the  truly  enlightened 
who  examine  them. 

Education  in  Germany  is  now  a  ruling  pas- 
sion. All  healthy  children  from  six  to  fourteen 
years  old  are  required  by  law  to  be  in  school 
most  of  the  time.  On  ornvduatin":  from  the 
grammar  schools,  perhaps  the  majority  of  the 
boys  advance  into   the  gymnasia,  where    they 


148      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

study,  from  four  to  eight  years,  the  ancient  clas- 
sics, mathematics,  German  literature,  history, 
and  some  modern  language.  Having  completed 
this  course  the  average  student  ranks,  as  to  cul- 
ture, about  the  same  as  our  college  junior.  On 
leaving  the  gymnasium,  if  one  decides  to  follow 
a  profession  for  a  life-work,  he  must  go  to  the 
university,  to  receive  special  training  for  his 
selected  vocation.  Here  he  must  remain  four 
or  more  years  before  he  can  be  crowned  with 
his  degree  and  the  right  to  follow  a  profession. 
The  university  gives  instruction  altogether  by 
lectures.  Degrees  are  conferred  on  passing  in 
oral  examination,  and  the  reading  of  an  elab- 
orate thesis,  except  in  theology,  where  the 
degree  is  purely  honorary.  After  a  student  be- 
comes fully  matriculated  into  any  one  of  the 
universities  of  Germany,  the  privilege  is  granted 
him  of  attending  lectures  at  any  university 
within  the  realm,  according  as  his  wishes  and 
taste  may  decide.  The  object  seems  to  be,  to 
encourage  students  to  do  the  best  possible  work. 
So,  as  the  scholar  comes  out  of  the  university 
hall,  with  his  doctorate  in  hand,  his  head  is  likely 
to  be  silvered  with  gray,  and  his  eye  somewhat 
dimmed  with  hard  usaije.  He  is  certain  to  be 
profoundly  learned ;  but  what  is  he  really  fitted 
to  do  ?     He  is  not  prepared  to  teach  young  and 


GERMANY   AND   BERLIN.  149 

inexperienced  minds,  for  he  has  been  grappling 
with  the  strongest  scholars  and  mightiest 
thoughts.  He  has  had  no  experience  in  impart- 
ing knowledge.  He  cannot  preach,  for  he  has 
cultivated  no  habit  of  expression.  He  is  simply 
a  scholar,  and  must  find  a  scholar's  position,  if 
that  is  possible  where  so  many  others  are  wait- 
ing for  a  similar  chance.  K  he  fails,  he  is  likely 
to  reap  at  length  the  bitterest  poverty,  or  at 
best  the  meagre  rewards  of  scholarship  in  Ger- 
many. 

Unquestionably  the  leading  university  of  this 
country  now  is  that  of  Berlin,  conceived  by  Hum- 
boldt and  founded  by  Frederick  William  only 
some  seventy  years  ago.  Its  aim  and  aml)ition 
were  to  become  at  once  a  power  in  the  land. 
It  seemed  to  leap  into  life  fully  matured,  aston- 
ishin<?  the  world  with  the  mental  stren«:th  of 
Hegel,  Schleiermacher,  and  Neander,  and  is  now 
one  of  the  leading  educational  institutions  of 
the  world.  Its  number  of  students  and  profes- 
sors reminds  us  of  the  palmy  days  of  Alexandria, 
Athens,  Padua,  Cordova,  and  Prague.  In  law, 
theology,  medicine,  and  philosophy,  it  claims 
the  profoundest  scholarship,  and  does  lead  civ- 
ilization, at  least,  in  certain  departments  of 
learning.  If  Halle  contests  the  honors  with 
Berlin  in  the   soundness  of  its   theology,  and 


150      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

Heidelberg  in  the  development  of  its  legal  prin- 
ciples, and  Gottengeii  in  its  natural  sciences, 
and  Jena  in  some  departments  of  philosophy, 
still  not  even  Leipsic  can  vie  with  Berlin  in 
philological  researches.  Bochle,  with  many 
others  following  in  his  gilded  track,  is  letting 
his  light  so  shine  as  lo  reveal,  as  nowhere  else, 
the  hidden  laws  of  language. 

Though  Germany,  with  its  twenty-two  uni- 
versities and  learned  faculties,  shuns  and  abhors 
superficialness,  yet  it  does  often  fail  in  practi- 
calness, and  comes  short  of  making  its  deep  in- 
tellectual thought  felt  in  every-day  life.  So,  if 
Germany  excels  in  fine  scholarship  and  theory, 
it  lacks  in  mental  appliances  and  practice.  Is 
not  this  a  natural  result  of  the  lecture  system  ? 
Let  the  Socratic  method  be  combined  with  this, 
so  that  there  should  be  a  mingling  of  lectures 
and  discussions,  and  German  education  would 
be  more  signal  than  it  is  at  present. 

The  state  supports  mainly  the  university,  as 
well  as  the  public  school  and  the  gymn.-isium, 
so  that  all  who  will,  can  enjoy  its  advantages. 
Its  educational  work  has  been  signal,  placing  its 
schools,  as  beacons  upon  the  loftiest  heights,  to 
shed  light  and  glory  upon  the  world. 

If  Germany  forces  her  children  in  the  public 
schools  to  learn  the  catechism  by  heart,  and  is 


GERMANY   AND   BERLIN.  151 

intent  upon  cramming  the  youthful  mind  with 
Scripture  texts  and  lijmns,  yet  there  is  no  re- 
ligious avvakening  in  the  country.  The  majority 
of  the  educated  are  rationalists,  rejecting  all 
the  Christian  creeds.  The  boy  at  fifteen  is 
almost  certain  to  disbelieve  the  texts  which  he 
was  required  to  learn  at  ten.  The  majority 
profess  to  have  faith  in  God  and  immortality. 
But  for  the  most  part  they  look  upon  religious 
ceremony  as  trifling,  prayer  as  a  pagan  rite,  and 
w^orship  as  the  oflfshoot  of  heathenish  weakness 
and  fear. 

It  is  true,  there  are  districts  in  which  Chris- 
tian orthodoxy  prevails ;  but  these  are  excep- 
tions. Germany  can  no  longer  be  called 
Christian,  as  it  was  known  to  Luther  and  de- 
fined by  Leo  X.  Roman  Catholicism  hns  here 
become  deprived  of  its  pristine  authority,  and 
the  Augsburg  Confession  has  become  of  small 
account.  The  dogmatism  of  Athanasius  and 
the  statutes  of  the  Council  of  Nice,  which  once 
dominated  here,  are  lifeless.  The  mass  are 
considering  Christianity  as  an  Asiatic  religion, 
speedily  doomed  to  oblivion.  The  compara- 
tively few  who  are  in  the  ranks  of  the  clergy, 
are  being  looked  upon  as  wild  enthusiasts  or 
vile  hypocrites,  who  are  seeking  most  for  an 
easy  mode  of  living.     The  mass  boldly  declare 


152      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

that  human  reason  is  sufficient  to  establish  all 
needed  religious  axioms  for  human  guidance. 
They  judge  it  a  grave  duty  to  make  this  loftiest 
use  of  reason.  So  latitudinarianism  is  really 
holding  sway.  Sunday  is  generally  treated 
as  a  holiday.  Accordingly,  the  churches  on 
that  day  are  generally  empty,  but  the  beer-gar- 
dens are  crowded  to  overflowing.  The  Bible, 
they  feel,  through  moral,  historical,  and  scien- 
tific criticism,  has  been  exploded.  They  claim 
that  their  extreme  rationalism  is  working  good 
moral  results  upoA  their  nation  ;  and  they  hesi- 
tate not  to  compare  their  averjige  society  with 
that  of  the  most  orthodox  communities.  They 
judge  their  honor  and  integrity  will  vie  favor- 
ably with  these  virtues  as  expressed  in  any  other 
country.  They  say  let  Goethe,  Schiller,  and 
Von  Humboldt,  be  carefully  studied,  and  they 
have  no  fear  for  the  welfare  of  their  nation. 
Keason  is  their  talisman  ;  criticism,  their  delight ; 
and  scepticism,  their  special  foi*te.  What  the 
result  of  their  extreme  rationalism  will  be,  re- 
mains to  be  seen.  It  is  certain  that  Christian- 
ity,  at  present,  is  but  a  small  factor  in  Ger- 
many. 

Berlin,  now  the  capital  of  the  whole  of  Ger- 
many, is  one  of  the  largest  cities  of  Europe. 
We  can  hardly  imagine  how  and  why  such  a 


GER>L\NY   AND   BERLIN.  153 

city  should  chance  to  spring  up  in  the  central 
part  of  an  extended  and  naturally  barren  plain. 
It  is  evidently  a  comparatively  modern  city ; 
however,  it  is  tnown  that  a  portion  of  its  present 
site  was  inhabited  as  far  back  as  the  thirteenth 
century.*  Its  very  name  is  supposed  to  imply 
a  settlement  on  a  sandy  plain.  The  present  city 
is  divided  by  the  Spree  which  is  an  exceedingly 
sluggish  stream.  In  fact  the  land  on  which  the 
city  stands  is  so  level  that  it  affords  no  drain- 
age. It  is  fortunate  the  soil  is  loose  and  grav- 
elly, 6r  otherwise  the  people  could  not  long 
survive  here.  The  city  is  considerably  spread 
out,  surroimded  by  a  wall  ten  and  a  half  miles 
in  length.  The  buildings  are  constructed  of 
brick,  and  plastered  or  stuccoed  outside.  These 
soon  acquire  a  faded  appearance.  For  beauty 
of  situation  and  style  of  architecture,  Berlin 
will  not  compare  favorably  -svith  Munich  or 
Dresden,  the  former  guarding  the  rapid  Iser, 
and  the  latter  spanning  the  clear  Elbe.  These 
by  nature  and  art  possess  peculiar  charms  ;  but 
Berlin  is  the  "city  of  the  plain."  It  is  but 
sh'ghtly  elevated  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Its 
wifiters  are  long  and  usually  severe.  Its  sum- 
mers are  hot  and  arid.  Yet,  in  spite  of  all  dis- 
advantages, it  has  become  a  magnificent  city. 
Its  Under  den  Linden,  which  is  its  principal 


154      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

street  and  fashionable  promenade,  is  in  design 
and  in  many  regards  the  handsomest  street  in 
Europe.  This  is  lined  with  rows  of  lime-trees, 
which  extend  from  the  stately  Brandenburg 
gate,  and  is  flanked  on  either  side  by  many  of 
the  finest  structures  of  the  city.  Here  are  the 
spacious  opera  house,  the  Royal  Palace  with  its 
six  hundred  rooms  and  saloons,  the  Armory  hav- 
ing weapons  sufficient  to  equip  one  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  men,  the  University,  the  Academy 
of  Arts,  and  the  Equestrian  Statue  of  Frederick 
the  Great.  The  leading  external  sights  of  this  city 
can  be  readily  and  quickly  seen  because  of  their 
compactness.  Berlin  owes  its  growth  and  re- 
nown mainly  to  the  Fredericks.  This  has  been  a 
beloved  city  to  them,  and  they  have  striven  to 
give  it  life,  —  life  internal  and  external. 

If  level  districts  and  countries  are  not  prone 
to  produce  poets  and  philosophers,  this  city  has 
been  prolific  in  producing  scholars.  For  decades 
a  presiding  intellectual  genius  has  seemed  to 
hold  sway  over  it,  and  every  now  and  then  has 
called  foilh  a  gifted  soul  to  march  on  in  the  van 
of  aggressive  thought  and  civilization. 

The  Berliners  are  renowned  for  their  quick 
and  sharp  wit  and  humor,  their  literary  and 
artistic  tastes,  their  general  intelligence  and 
passionate    fondness   for  music.      They   pride 


GEE3IANY   AND   BERLIN.  155 

themselves  on  their  schools,  from  the  primary 
to  the  university.  They  delight  to  exhibit 
these  to  foreigners,  and  to  learn  all  that  is  pos- 
sible as  to  the  educational  work  which  is  going 
on  in  other  countries.  They  do  their  best  to 
induce  students  from  abroad  to  come  to  their 
city  to  study.  Accordingly,  in  their  gymnasia, 
university,  and  schools  of  art  and  music,  are 
to  be  seen  young  men  and  women  from  distant 
lands.  Undoubtedly,  the  strongest  attractions 
to  this  city  arc  on  the  side  of  its  educational 
advantages.  Though  it  is  Protestant,  still  it 
has  but  few  church-edifices,  compared  with  its 
population  ;  not  more  than  one  third  what  there 
should  be,  to  accommodate  the  masses,  should 
they  attend  worship  on  Sunday.  The  average 
German  prizes  highly  his  physical  and  intel- 
lectual tastes.  He  cannot  dispense  with  his 
beer  or  book  ;  so  his  Sabbaths  are  likely  to  be 
spent  at  the  beer-garden,  or  in  the  library-room. 
So,  while  the  German  is  developing  body  and 
mind  most  fully,  it  is  a  question  yet  to  be  de- 
cided, as  to  what  extent  he  is  developing  his 
spiritual  nature.  His  career  thus  for  has  been 
marvellous.  He  has  brought  forth  some  of  the 
richest  treasures  from  the  mines  of  the  earth, 
and  revealed  out  of  the  arcana  of  philosophy 
countless  new  and  wonderful  truths. 


156       AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

Berlin  is  intellectually  great,  and  her  mental 
splendors  gild  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth. 
It  is  the  northern  Mecca  of  scholars  whose 
beacons  are  brilliant  with  the  lights  of  its  Hum- 
boldts,  Kegels,  and  Neanders.  As  the  centre  of 
the  most  perfect  system  of  education,  it  is  a 
city  of  which  every  German,  or  foreign  scholar, 
may  well  be  proud. 


YL 

SWITZERLAND    AND   BERNE. 

nPHIS  is  a  prominent  country  in  several  senses. 
-^  Though  small  in  area,  yet  it  towers  above 
all  other  lands  in  Europe.  It  will  not  average 
more  than  two  hundred  and  ten  miles  east  and 
west,  and  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  north 
and  south.  Its  lower  portions  are  twelve  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  one 
thousand  feet  higher  than  the  average  surface  of 
Italy.  Like  a  towering  giant  it  sways  its  snowy 
sceptre  over  land  and  sea,  far,  far  away.  It  is 
a  land  of  lofty  peaks  and  deep-cut  vales ;  of 
eternal  snows  and  perpetual  spring ;  of  fertile 
soils  and  barren  rocks ;  of  beautiful  lakes  and 
angry  glaciers ;  of  sunny  nooks  and  bleakest 
heights.  It  is  rich  in  mines  of  iron,  coal,  lead, 
and  rock-salt.  Its  waters  abound  in  carp, 
perch,  and  salmon.  Tlie  hare,  squirrel,  and 
partridge,  sport  among  its  beech,  birch,  oak, 
and  chestnut  trees.  Bears  and  wolves  infest 
the  regions  of  the  pine  and  spruce.     Chamois 


158       AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF    FOREIGN    TRAVEL. 

and   gazelles  leap  from  cliff  to  cliff.     Eagles 
and  vultures  sail  amon<?  the  loftiest  heights. 

Early  man  sought  this  romantic  and  sublime 
region.  Whence  he  came,  history  is  unable  to 
decide.  The  relics  of  the  Lacustrine  villages 
show  that  human  beings  were  here  during  the 
stone  and  bronze  ages,  reaching  back,  from  three 
to  seven  thousand  years.  Some  two  hundred 
of  these  lake  settlements  have  already  been  dis- 
covered. So  these  facts  place  this  picturesque 
land  among  the  pre-historic  countries.  But 
long  after  these  Palifits  had  sunk  into  their 
watery  graves,  the  Celts,  or  Cimmerians  came 
hither.  As  they  took  up  their  abode  here,  it 
would  seem  as  though  Cimmerian  darkness  for 
centuries  brooded  over  this  realm.  While  the 
people  along  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean 
were  advancing  in  civilization,  the  inhabitants 
among  these  Alpine  fastnesses  were  rude  and 
barbarous.  History  presents  this  Celtic  people 
to  us  about  a  century  before  the  Christian  era, 
under  the  name  of  the  Helvetians.  Caesar  informs 
us  that  they  were 'strong  and  warlike.  He 
speaks  of  Divico  as  their  bravest  chieftain  and 
Orgetorix  as  their  most  eloquent  advocate. 
After  a  while,  the  Roman  legions  invaded  their 
territory  and  subdued  them,  reducing  them  to  a 
state  of  slavery ;  but  at  the  fall  of  their  empire, 


SWITZERLAND    AND   BERNE.  159 


fresh  tribes  from  the  north  came  seeking  homes 
among  the  hills,  and  becoming  ancestors  of 
a  piitriotic  and  valorous  race.  The  Burguii- 
dians  came  from  the  Baltic  shores,  settling 
around  Lake  Geneva  and  the  river  Aar ;  then 
came  the  Alamanni  from  the  Main  on  the  Rhine, 
taking  possession  of  the  country  about  Lake 
Constance ;  then  came  the  Ostrogoths  from 
Scandinavia,  settling, in  the  Rhsetian  Alps;  and 
finally  came  the  Franks  in  large  numbers,  so 
that  at  the  end  of  the  sixth  century,  all  Helve- 
tia was  subject  to  Frankish  sway.  The  Franks 
brought  with  them  the  rudiments  of  their  feudal 
system.  Their  king  must  be  a  feudal  sovereign, 
their  judge  must  be  a  feudal  baron,  and  their 
soldier  must  be  a  feudal  vassal.  They  were 
pagans  and  slaves  of  superstition.  They  wor- 
shipped the  sun,  moon,  stars,  sylphs,  and 
shadowy  deities.  Just  the  date  when  Christian- 
ity was  introduced  among  them  is  unknown. 
We  read  of  Beat  us  in  the  first  century,  and 
Lucius  in  the  second,  as  teachers  of  the  Chris- 
tian religion  in  Helvetia.  A  legend  states  that 
in  the  seventh  century,  it  was  introduced  to  the 
land  in  a  pure  form  from  Ireland  by  a  disciple 
of  Columba,  the  illustrious  founder  of  the  Scot- 
tish monastery  in  the  island  of  lona.  As  evi- 
dence of  this,  the  fact  is  cited  that  bell-towers 


160      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRA\'EL. 

originated  with  this  monastery ;  and,  as  these  are 
ninnerous  among  the  memorials  between  the 
Rhtetian  Alps  and  Cologne,  along  the  banks  of 
the  Rhine,  it  is  believed  they  took  their  origin 
from  lona  and  were  introduced  here  bv  mission- 
aries. 

During  the  reign  of  Charlemagne,  it  is  proper 
to  say,  this  territory  was  subject  to  his  author- 
ity, and  was  greatly  improved  during  his  ad- 
ministration. He  lent  his  influence  to  encourage 
agriculture,  increase  manufactures,  and  establish 
schools. 

But  from  the  besfinninsr  of  the  ninth  to  the 
close  of  the  thii-teenth  century,  this  land,  for 
the  most  part,  was  groaning  under  feudal  des- 
potism. The  castle  tyranny  weighed  heavily 
upon  the  masses,  and  it  would  seem  almost 
strange  that  it  did  not  crush  out  all  the  U^pes 
and  courage  of  these  early  Swiss  mountaineers. 
The  lords,  at  times,  were  cruelly  jealous  and 
revengeful,  as  shown  by  a  legend  of  Tohenberg, 
which  tells  us  of  Count  Henry  who  had  a  beau- 
tiful wife,  named  Ida.  She  one  day  chanced  to 
l.iy  her  wedding  ring  close  to  the  window  of  her 
chamber.  A  tame  raven  soon  after  seizing  it, 
bore  it  oif  and  dropped  it  into  the  street.  It 
was  picked  up  by  one  of  the  Count's  slaves,  who 
at  once  put  it  on  his  finger.     The  Count,  dis 


SWITZERLAND   AND   BERNE.  161 

covering  it  on  his  menial's  hand,  accused  Ida  of 
infidelity,  and  then,  refusing  to  hear  any  explana- 
tion, hurled  the  unfortunate  wife  from  the 
highest  castle  window  down  among  the  rocks, 
and  then  caused  the  servant  to  be  tied  to  the 
switch  of  a  wild  horse  and  dragged  to  death. 
Still,  in  spite  of  vassalage  and  persecution, 
the  fire  of  patriotism  and  love  of  freedom  were 
burning  in  the  hearts  of  these  invincible  moun- 
taineers ;  and,  as  we  sail  across  the  waters  of 
Lake  Luzerne,  and  walk  the  streets  of  Altorf, 
we  are  reminded  of  King  Albert's  reign,  and 
his  determination  to  crush  out  the  seeds  of  lib- 
erty which  had  begun  to  germinate  among  the 
Alps.  Accordingly,  he  sent  from  his  Austrian 
home,  as  the  current  story  relates,  two  hard- 
hearted men,  Gessler  and  Beringer,  to  levy  tolls, 
exact  dues,  and  punish  with  severity  any  indi- 
cations of  insubordination.  Many  a  sad  tale  is 
rife  among  the  Swiss  at  this  day,  showing  how 
they  were  oppressed  by  these  officers  of  the 
king.  "Is  this  to  be  endured,"  asked  Gessler, 
as  he  looked  at  the  new  house  of  a  farmer,  "that 
clownish  peasants  should  erect  such  handsome 
dwellings?"  One  day,  a  man  committed  some 
slight  offence,  and  Beringer  seized  his  oxen,  re- 
marking, as  he  unyoked  them,  that  "boors 
might  draw  their  own  ploughs " ;  and  because 


162      AFTER-TIIOUGirrS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

resistance  was  offered,  the  man  lost  his  own 
eyes.  Was  it  to  be  supposed  that  these  high- 
hmd  foresters  would  long  endure  such  treat- 
ment? Is  it  to  be  wondered  that  their  brave 
wives  asked,  ^^  How  long  shall  arrogance  tri- 
umph, and  humility  weep?  Shall  foreigners 
become  masters  of  the  land,  and  kings  of  our 
property?  What  avails  it  that  our  mountains 
are  inhabited  by  men  ?  Are  we  mothers  to 
suckle  sons  doomed  to  become  beggars,  and 
bring  up  our  daughters  to  be  slaves  to  foreign- 
ers ?  This  cannot  be."  After  being  moved  by 
such  interrogations,  no  wonder  three  resolute 
and  patriotic  men  should  meet  on  the  Rutli,  and 
resolve  that  their  land  should  become  free.  As 
they  made  known  their  aims  to  their  neighbors, 
they  were  encouraged,  and  on  Martinmas  eve, 
1307,  these  three  men  met  once  more  on  this 
trysting  meadow,  and  each  was  accompanied 
with  ten  confederates ;  and  here,  under  the 
gracious  stars  shining  propitiously  upon  grass, 
lake,  and  mountain,  they  solemnly  swore  to  live 
or  die  for  their  beloved  land,  to  resist  the  op- 
pression of  the  house  of  IIa[)sburg,  and  expel 
from  their  realm  the  domineering  Gessler  and 
Beringer.  Soon  after  this  followed  the  daring 
episode  of  William  Tell.  He  was  one  of  the 
thirty-three  who  had  so  solemnly  pledged  them- 


SWITZERLAND  AND  BERNE.  163 

selv^es  on  the  Rutli.  Gessler,  it  is  related,  among 
other  expedients  for  subduing  the  Swiss,  set  up 
in  the  market-place  of  Altorf  a  pole  with  Duke 
Albert's  hat  fixed  on  the  top,  to  which  all  pass- 
ers-by were  required  to  make  obeisance.  This 
act  of  homage  Tell  refused  to  render;  and, 
therefore,  followed  the  merciless  sentence  of 
Gessler  upon  Tell,  to  shoot  an  apple,  many  paces 
off,  from  the  head  of  his  son.  Being  successful 
in  this,  and  because  an  extra  arrow  was  discov- 
ered on  his  person,  he  is  soon  after  put  in  chains 
and  placed  in  a  boat,  to  be  borne  across  Lake 
Luzerne  and  confined  in  a  castle.  But  a  furious 
storm  arose  before  they  had  advanced  far,  and 
Gessler  was  frightened,  and  ordered  Tell  to  be 
unbound,  that  he  might  put  his  skilled  hands  to 
the  oars,  and,  if  possible,  save  the  imperilled 
bark.  Complying  with  the  command,  the  hero 
guided  the  boat  along  shore,  and  as  soon  as  an 
opportunity  was  j^resented,  he  leaped  upon  the 
solid  rocks,  leaving  his  oppressors  and  asso- 
ciates to  battle,  as  best  they  could,  against  the 
threatening  elements.  A  little  chapel  now 
marks  the  spot  where  Tell  sprang  ashore  ;  it  is 
really  the  Mecca  of  the  Swiss.  The  place  is 
said  to  have  been  consecrated  in  1388,  by  those 
who  had  been  personally  acquainted  with  the 
heroic  act.     On  Sunday   after  Ascension  day, 


164      AFTER-TIIOUGIITS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

may  be  seen  numerous  boats  coming  from  all 
directions,  decorated  with  flags  and  mottoes,  in 
honor  of  their  brave  leader,  tending  to  this 
chapel,  where  mass  is  performed,  and  a  patriotic 
sermon  is  preached. 

Tradition  says.  Tell  on  his  liberation  climbed 
over  the  Axenberg  and  hastened  to  the  lane 
leading  to  Gessler's  castle,  and  there  watched 
the  approach  of  his  adversary  and  shot  him 
dead.  On  the  same  day,  it  is  said,  a  party 
went  to  Landenberg  where  Beringer  dwelt, 
stormed  his  castle  and  drove  him  from  the 
country. 

If  the  stories  of  these  olden  times  have  been 
criticised  and  doubted,  still  it  is  plain,  there 
must  have  been  some  reality  for  their  founda- 
tion ;  for  it  does  not  appear  possible  that  mere 
fables  should  have  gained  such  credence  and 
produced  such  national  results.  At  the  present 
day,  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  the  names  of 
these  heroes  are  dearly  cherished.  The  tales  of 
their  adventures  are  related  in  the  chalets,  on 
diligences,  and  in  cars.  Their  figures  are  in 
churches,  and  on  gables  of  houses.  They  are 
commemorated  in  the  songs  and  the  religious 
rites  of  the  people.  The  hearts  of  the  Swiss 
declare  to-day  that  such  cruel  tyrants  did  for- 
merly smite  their  land,  and  such  brave  heroes 


SWITZERLAND   AND   BERNE.  165 

did  once  save  it.  Mere  fabrication  could  not 
have  produced  such  deep-seated  hatred  and  such 
profound  respect. 

As  we  are  crossing  Albis,  from  Zurich  to 
Zug,  we  notice  a  stone  monument  by  the  way- 
side where  Zwingle  fell.  Here,  again,  emotional 
thoughts  crowd  the  mind.  History  repeats 
afresh  the  story  of  that  famous  son  who  reared 
in  this  free  mountain  air,  longed  for  spii'itual, 
as  well  as  civil,  liberty.  At  length,  with  a  warm 
heart,  a  resolute  will,  and  a  cultivated  mind,  in 
1516,  he  stepped  forth  to  proclaim  boldly 
aofainst  the  sale  of  induls^ences,  which  was  beinsf 
carried  on  by  Tetzel  in  Germany,  and  by  Sam- 
son in  Switzerland.  He  felt  the  church  was 
enskviug,  as  the  state  never  had.  It  was  mak- 
ing money,  not  repentance,  the  means  of  salva- 
tion ;  it  was  saying,  "  Let  those  pass  fii-st  who 
have  wealth  ;  see,  they  fly  !  "  pretending  that 
those  who  bought  indulgences  could  witness  the 
souls  of  the  departed  escaping  from  purgatory 
to  heaven.  Catholicism  had  already  gained  a 
strong  hold  in  this  land ;  and  as  Zwingle  began 
to  expose  the  false  dogma  of  indulgences,  fiery 
•opposition  expressed  itself  on  every  hand.  But 
the  reformer,  by  his  logic  and  eloquence,  soon 
gained  a  large  following  on  the  part  of  the 
populace.     Most  of  the  cities  soon  became  Prot- 


166      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

estant,  while  the  highland  villages  remained 
Catholic.  So  the  bitterest  jealousies  sprung 
up,  which  at  length  resulted  in  wars  ;  and  in  the 
battle  of  Cappel,  Zwingle  was  captured  by  the 
Romanists  and  commanded  "to  call  upon  the 
saints  and  confess  to  the  priests."  As  he  kept 
his  silence,  Feckinger  cried  out,  "  Vile  heretic  I" 
iind  plunged  his  sword  into  the  reformer's 
throat.  As  Zwingle  fell  bleeding,  he  said, "  They 
may  kill  the  body,  they  cannot  kill  the  soul.'* 
Thus  the  preacher,  the  shepherd,  and  adviser, 
went  out  of  this  world  glorified.  Now,  when- 
ever we  visit  the  place  where  he  fell,  and  look 
at  the  mountains  towering  majestically  above, 
and  enjoy  the  summer  air,  we  can  but  feel 
it  is  consecrated  ground,  and  fittingly  emblem- 
atical of  a  noble  character.  After  the  death 
of  Zwingle,  the  famous  Ferel  kindled  the  Prot- 
estant fires  in  the  city  of  Geneva,  which  soon 
flamed  out  and  consumed  the  Roman  altars 
and  images  there.  As  his  b'ght  was  reaching 
its  zenith,  John  Calvin,  the  most  illustrious 
reformer  of  all,  in  point  of  scholarship  and  en- 
during industry,  took  up  his  abode  in  Geneva. 
He  dealt  heavy  blows  agjiinst  Romanism.  Eli- 
jah-like he  fought  for  what  he  believed  to  be 
right.  His  influence  soon  became  potent  in 
his  adopted  city.     By  lake   and  mountain,  he 


J 


SWITZERLAND   AND  BERNE.  167 

created  a  force  which  has  greatly  moved  and 
swayed  the  Protestant  world. 

At  Basle,  Berne,  Lausanne,,  and  Luzerne, 
we  learn  how  the  wars  of  religion  continued 
till  1712,  when,  there  came  an  interregnum 
of  peace.  During  this  period,  various  forms 
of  republican  government  were  tried  in  differ- 
ent cantons,  or  divisions.  But  from  1792  till 
the  Congress  of  Vienna  in  1815,  the  Swiss 
were  frequently  disturbed  by  foreign  nations, 
and  their  country  invaded  by  French  and  Aus- 
trian soldiers.  However,  for  some  reason  the 
Swiss  were  never  really  conquered,  or  certainly 
not  subdued.  By  nature  they  are  strongly 
fortified,  and  by  nature  they  are  truly  heroic. 
Now,  for  two-score  years  and  more,  they  have 
been  prospered,  proving  to  the  world  that 
their  republic  is  a  success. 

Let  one  enter  this  land  from  any  quarter  for 
the  first  time,  and  he  is  quite  sure  to  be  sur- 
prised. The  mind  and  heart  cannot  keep  cool. 
Every  turn  brings  new  scenes  to  light.  He  is 
surprised  that  the  hills  are  so  steep,  the  moun- 
tains so  abrupt,  the  grass  so  green,  and  the 
trees  so  thrifty.  If  whirled  on  by  the  iron 
horse,  how  the  shelving  rocks,  the  deep  gorges, 
and  the  towering  cliffs  rush  together.  If  pene- 
trating the  country  by  the  way  of  Basle  and 


168      AFTEE-THOCGHTS   OF  FOBEIGN  TRAVEL. 

Luzerne,  it  is  not  long  before  the  train  is  flying 
along  the  shore  of  Sempach,  so  renowned  for 
the  battle  fought  on  its  margin,  the  9th  of 
July,  1386,  whin  Arnold  von  AVinkleried  threw 
himself  on  the  lances  of  the  Austrians,  and 
thereby  eflected  the  defeat  of  Leopold  II.,  and 
established  freedom  in  this  part  of  Switzerland. 
Leaving  this  body  of  water,  the  Bernese  and 
Oberland  Alps  present  their  numerous  peaks 
capped  with  granite  and  snow  ;  close  to  the  right 
is  the  ragged  Pilatus,  and  to  the  left,  the  beau- 
tiful Rigi ;  and  soon  the  train  halts  in  the  city  of 
Luzerne,  just  on  the  shore  of  one  of  the  most 
enchanting  lakes  of  the  world.  This  is  a  city 
of  considerable  importance,  and  especially  noted 
for  its  fine  and  commodious  hotels.  It  is  belted 
on  three  sides  with  diversified  farming  lands. 
Late  into  the  autumn,  vegetation  is  of  the  live- 
liest green.  All  up  the  sides  of  the  mountains, 
plateaus  rise  one  above  another.  These  are 
dotted  with  little  chalets,  and  occasionally  with 
clusters  of  diminutive  wooden  houses.  Strange 
that  human  beino^s  should  deliorht  to  dwell 
•where  it  w^ould  seem  to  be  alone  the  rightful 
haunts  of  the  eagle  and  chamois.  The  common 
farm-house  here  is  not  likely  to  satisfy  the  taste 
of  the  American  or  Englishman,  who  is  accus- 
tomed to  commodious  buildings ;  for,  frequently 


SWITZERLAND  AND  BEENE.  169 

it  serves  for  both  house  and  barn.  Neither  will 
he  be  likely  to  admire  the  compost  heaps  which 
are  smoking  in  almost  every  front  yard.  These 
are  so  placed,  it  is  said,  for  the  health  of  the 
inmates ;  but  at  times  it  is  severe  medicine  for 
the  olfactories.  The  average  Swiss  home  is 
comfortable,  but  not  neat  and  well  regulated. 
Little  cooking  is  done. in  the  family ;  the  bread, 
wine,  and  beer,  are  bought  ready  for  the  table ; 
the  butter  and  cheese  are  made  high  on  the 
mountain-sides,  where  the  goats  and  cows  are 
pastured.  It  is  plain  to  be  seen  that  the  peasant 
women  do  not  spend  much  time  at  their  toilet, 
or  in  striving  to  keep  pace  with  the  tashions. 
It  would  seem  that  most  of  them  believe  in  lar^e 
styles,  as  to  hats  and  shoes,  wearing  broad  brims 
and  expanded  soles.  As  these  women  are  seen 
at  work  with  the  men,  hoeing,  shovelling,  mow- 
ing, raking,  bearing  heavy  burdens,  it  is  difficult 
to  make  this  mode  of  living,  by  any  kind  of 
human  logic,  just  or  right.  As  we  witness  their 
brawny,  sunburnt  faces,  and  their  large,  stiff 
hands,  we  can  but  rejoice  that  the  women  of 
our  country,  as  a  rule,  do  not  attempt  to  be  men 
in  manual  labor.  We  would  say,  let  them  ex- 
ercise very  much  in  the  open  air;  let  them 
teach ;  let  them  trade ;  let  them  preach ;  let 
them  vote,  if  they  will ;  but  never  let  them  be 


170      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOEEIGN  TRAVEL. 

forced  to  dig  potatoes  and  lug  produce  to  mar- 
ket for  a  liviug. 

On  examining  their  farming  tools,  they  are 
not  found  to  be  light  and  finished  as  to  style. 
Their  carts,  ploughs,  hoes,  shovels,  and  forks,  are 
heavy ;  and  their  harrows  are  made  entirely  of 
wood.  Their  horses,  oxen,  and  cows,  are  worked 
on  their  farms,  and  usually,  each  separately. 

The  art- work  of  special  attraction  in  Luzerne, 
is  the  lion  cut  into  the  natural  rock  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  the  city,  after  a  model  by 
Thorwaldsen,  in  honor  of  twenty-six  officers 
and  many  soldiers  of  the  Swiss  Guards,  who 
were  cruelly  massacred  in  defence  of  the  Tu- 
ileries,  Aug.  10,  1792.  The  dying  lion  reclines 
in  a  grotto,  having  his  body  transfixed  by  a 
broken  lance,  and  his  paw  sheltering  a  Bourbon 
lily.     It  is  a  natural  and  imposing  work. 

A  ride  of  a  few  miles  on  a  steamer  from  Lu- 
zerne, takes  one  to  Weggis,  a  little  village  at 
the  foot  of  the  Rigi,  which  is  the  usual  starting- 
place  of  travellers  ascending  this  mountain  from 
the  west.  Close  by  the  landing-place  is  a  little 
saw-mill,  which  is  quite  likely  to  allure  the  no- 
tice of  foreign  mechanics  by  the  slow  strokes  of 
the  saw  and  the  method  of  running  back  the 
carriage  by  hand.  As  the  man  in  charge  is 
asked,  if  there  are  any  gang-saws  in  Switzerland, 


SWITZERLAND   A:N^D   BERNE.  171 

he  is  nonplussed.  In  making  little  trinkets  and 
filigree  work  the  Swiss  may  excel,  but  cannot 
display  great  ingenuity  in  manufacturing  on  a 
large  scale.  They  may  justly  be  called  cute  in 
using  the  jack-knife.  They  are  certain  to  keep 
doing,  until  what  they  do^is  well  done.  Their 
stone  bridges  and  superior  roads  are  sufficient 
proof  of  this.  They  probably  have  the  best 
highways  in  the  world,  though  built  over  the 
most  difficult  places. 

In  asceuding  to  the  summit  of  the  Rigi,  which 
is  some  six  thousand  feet  above  the  sea-level,  a 
great  variety  of  flora  is  to  be  seen.  At  the  base 
are  apple  and  cherry  trees  ;  higher  up  are  oaks 
and  walnuts ;  and  still  higher  are  pines  and 
spruces.  The  ledges  cropping  out  are  composed 
of  granite  aud  conglomerates.  In  the  summer, 
the  traveller,  in  ascending  or  descending,  is 
sure  to  have  his  attention  arrested  by  the  echo 
of  the  Alpine  horns,  the  dingle  of  the  cow-bells, 
the  twittering  of  birds,  the  chattering  of  squir- 
rels, the  cawing  of  crows,  and  the  whistling  of 
hawks.  Frequently,  he  will  fall  in  with  monks 
wearing  long  faces,  and  brown-hooded  gowns, 
girdled  with  hempen  cords  dragging  on  the 
ground,  intended  to  be  symbolical  of  their  will- 
ingness to  suffer  death,  if  need  be,  for  the  sake 
of  their  religion.     At  almost  every  turn  in  the 


172      AFTER-TIIOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

path  are  to  be  seen  rude  crucifixes  and  pictures 
of  the  Virgin,  before  which  every  disciple  bows 
as  he  passes.  If  travellers  are  met  who  have 
been  favored  with  fair  skies,  and  splendid  sun- 
rises and  sunsets,  they  are  sure  to  be  lavish  with 
their  praises  and  almost  ready  to  adore  the  glo- 
ries of  the  Rigi ;  but,  if  they  have  struggled  to 
the  top,  costing  much  bono  and  muscle,  or  have 
been  transported  thither  by  the  power  of  steam, 
and  then  have  been  shut  in  by  the  thickest  fog 
and  darkness  for  twenty-four  hours,  or  more, 
they  will  be  ready  to  heap  anathemas  upon  the 
mountain  that  has  scarcely  a  rival  in  the  wide 
world  for  beauty,  serenity,  and  grandeur  of 
scenery.  How  much  conditions  of  mind  have 
to  do  in  rendering  this  world  pleasant  and  satis- 
fying !  What  surprises  one  most  in  this  country 
is  the  fiict  of  so  many  deep  valleys  and  lofty 
heights  in  so  small  an  area.  Even  a  footman  in 
a  day  can  enjoy  a  marvellous  variety  of  climate, 
soil,  and  surface.  To  get  the  most  possible  out 
of  sight-seeing  in  this  land,  the  travelling  should 
be  mainly  done  on  foot.  This  is  practicable, 
for  hotels  so  abound  along  the  passes  and 
throughout  the  country,  that  one  can  journey  a 
long,  or  short,  distance  during  the  day  and  be 
sure  of  finding  good  accommodations  at  night- 
fall.    Probably  no   other  country  is   so  highly 


SWITZERLAND   AND  BERNE.  173 

favored  with  good  hotels  and  pensions  as  Switz- 
erland. They  are  quite  certain  to  be  well  sup- 
plied with  pleasant  rooms,  clean  beds,  good 
bread,  tender  meats,  rich  milk,  sweet  honey, 
delicious  vegetables,  and  purest  water. 

The  highways  run  for  the  most  part  through 
deep  valleys  and  over  dizzy  heights.  It  is  mar- 
vellous that  good  roads  should  have  been  built 
over  the  Tyrol,  the  Splugen,  St.  Gothard, 
Mount  Cenis,  and  Simplon  Passes,  reaching  at 
the  highest  altitude  more  than  six  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea.  To  build  the  Simplon,  which  is 
forty-two  miles  in  length,  required  the  labor  of 
three  thousand  men  fourteen  years.  It  has  six 
hundred  and  eleven  bridges,  and  many  thousand 
feet  of  arches  and  terraces.  It  cost  at  the  rate 
of  twenty-five  thousand  dollars  per  mile.  Na- 
poleon I.  conceived  and  caused  this  road  to  be 
built.  Whatever  may  have  been  his  motives, 
the  design  of  it  is  sublime,  and  its  accomplish- 
ment grand.  Alexander  and  the  Caesars  per- 
formed great  deeds ;  the  Assyrians  raised  lofty 
towers ;  the  Greeks  piled  up  the  Acropolis  and 
Colossus ;  the  Romans  constructed  the  Colos- 
seum and  the  Appian  Way ;  but  Napoleon  did 
a  nobler  work  than  all  these  in  opening  a  high- 
way for  the  nations  over  Alpine  heights. 

The  waterfalls  of  the  Alps  are   among  the 


174      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

striking  attractions  to  the  traveller.  He  can 
but  have  feelings  of  awe,  as  he  stands  before  the 
lower  Reichenbach  and  gazes  at  the  water  as  it 
pitches  down  more  than  a  hundred  feet  into  a 
yawning  a])yss  of  boiling,  rushing,  leaping  cur- 
rents. At  the  upper  Reichenbach  he  cannot 
fail  to  experience  sublime  emotions,  as  he  wit- 
nesses a  large  body  of  water  breaking  over  the 
brink  and  descending  two  hundred  feet  without 
interruption,  and  disappearing  among  the  gorges 
below.  He  will  be  filled  with  delight  as  he 
looks  upon  the  Giesbach  Falls,  being  so  com- 
pletely invested  with  the  brightest  emerald  col- 
ors, as  the  water  comes  sparkling  and  springing 
down  the  steep  rocks  for  many  hundred  feet. 
In  the  sunlight  these  falls  are  constantly  arched 
with  countless  rainbows.  As  he  comes  to  the 
Staubbach  Falls,  if  he  is  a  lover  of  nature,  he 
will  be  enchanted,  as  he  looks  at  these  in  the 
clear  noonda}' light.  High  over  a  shelving  rock, 
aqueous  currents  fall  thick  and  fast,  separating 
at  length  into  silvery  trails,  and  finally  dissolv- 
ing into  sparkling  mist.  While  he  sits  on  the 
green  lajvn,  admiring  the  watery  lace- work  of 
Staubbach,  as  he  chances  to  peer  on  and  to  the 
south,  lo !  there  stands  out  in  boldest  relief 
against  the  dark  sky,  frowning  Jungfrau,  hurl- 
ing from  his  lofty  crest  avalanches  of  snow  iuto 


SWITZERLAND   AND   BERNE.  175 

the  depths,  hiding  with  its  frosty  vapors  the 
ru2:i]:ed  rocks  below.  As  he  marks  the  contrast, 
he  can  but  feel,  here  is  the  most  perfect  ilhis- 
tration  of  beauty,  there  of  sublimity ;  this 
soothes,  that  overpowers ;  this  speaks  of  God's 
tenderest  love,  that  of  his  almighty  power. 

Glacial  action  is  to  be  seen  almost  everywhere 
among  the  Alps,  even  where  no  glaciers  now 
exist.  At  the  present  they  number  some  six 
hundred,  covering  a  surface  of  nine  hundred 
square  miles,  giving  rise  to  several  of  the 
largest  rivers  in  Europe.  They  are,  no  doubt, 
the  leading  wonders  among  these  lofty  moun- 
tains. Perhaps,  the  most  favorable  view-point 
for  surveying  some  of  these  gigantic  agencies, 
is  from  the  summit  of  Montanvert.  Here  we 
take  our  stand  eight  thousand  feet  above  the 
valley  of  Chamouni,  whose  village  is  under  the 
shadows  of  glaciers.  We  catch  fine  glimpses, 
as  we  stand  here,  of  Mont  Blanc  towerin<r  so 
kingly  above  hundreds  of  lofty  mountains. 
Watching  as  the  flying  clouds  part,  we  behold 
almost  fairy-like  scenes.  One  moment  a  sil- 
very or  golden  crown  rests  upon  its  brow,  or  at 
another  we  are  reminded  of  a  maofnificent  rose 
nodding  and  swaying  in  the  wind.  At  one 
instant  we  seem  to  be  in  the  most  profound 
silence  ;  in  the  next  we  discover  far  above  us  a 


176      AFTER-THOUGIITS   OF   FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

wake,  and  then  vast  folds  of  fleecy  smoke,  and 
soon  peals  out  the  thunder  of  a  tremendous 
avalanche.  As  we  are  held  spellbound  and 
wondering,  we  can  but  ask,  why  do  not  the 
constantly  accumulating  snows  pile  themselves 
high  out  of  the  reach  of  mortal  ken?  But 
science  comes  to  our  relief,  saying  that  the 
force  of  gravity  is  incessantly  drawing  them 
from  their  volatile  regions,  and  before  they 
have  descended  ^ve  thousand  feet,  they  are 
converted  into  solid  ice. 

Not  far  from  us,  but  a  little  farther  on,  is  the 
Jardin,  a  green  oasis  in  the  midst  of  eternal 
snows.  Here  the  gazelle  and  antelope  may  be 
seen  leaping  from  rock  to  rock ;  and  just  under 
the  drippings  of  avalanches  may  be  plucked 
violets,  daisies,  and  buttercups  at  nearly  all 
seasons  of  the  year.  How  do  we  account  for 
this  garden  in  the  presence  of  abiding  snows  ? 
On  examination  it  is  found  to  be  so  situated  as 
to  catch  the  reflected  sunlight  on  all  sides, 
thereby  waking  up  green  mosses  and  delicate 
flowers  the  year  round. 

As  we  turn  in  another  direction,  we  can  see 
three  wide -spreading  glaciers  crowding  and 
grinding  down  through  the  gorges  into  the 
valleys.  The  nearest  one  is  the  Mer  de  Glace, 
being  some  twelve  miles  in  length  and  three  in 


SWITZERLAND   AKD   BERNE.  177 

width.  Looking  off  upon  the  surface,  we  are 
reminded  of  a  lake's  being  frozen  over  while 
the  waves  are  swelling  and  throwing  spray. 
Its  depth  we  cannot  sound ;  undoubtedly  in 
places  it  is  a  thousand  feet  in  thickness.  Every 
few  moments  a  deep  resonance  vibrates  from 
some  quarter,  giving  assurance  that  the  vast 
body  of  ice  is  in  motion.  Now  as  we  attempt 
to  cross  it,  no  dijQSculty  appears  to  be  in  the 
way;  still  we  do  not  advance  far  before  we 
find  the  undertaliing  hazardous.  An  innumer- 
able number  of  seams  and  yawnings  beset  us 
on  every  side ;  some  of  them  a  little  child  could 
easily  step  across,  while  others  are  sufficiently 
large  to  swallow  up  a  long  train  of  cars.  We 
are  obligred  to  select  our  course  with  caution 
and  couraore.  Now  and  then,  we  must  cross 
ridges  so  narrow  that  the  least  mishap  would 
precipitate  us  down,  down,  we  can  scarcely 
guess  where,  or  how  deep. 

In  some  of  these  gulfs,  and  also  above  the 
general  surface,  may  be  seen  massive  bowlders 
which  have  been  broken  off  and  brought  from 
the  solid  rocks,  high  up  the  mountain-sides. 
Frequently  travellers  lose  their  lives  in  their 
adventures  upon  this  uncertain  sea. 

Taking  advantage  of  a  favorable  opportunity, 
we  descend  into  one  of  these  chasms.     When 


178      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

fifty  feet  below  the  surface,  as  the  sunlight 
phiys  through  the  crystal  mirror,  a  strauge 
mingling  of  indescribable  colors  greets  the  eye. 
Topaz,  ruby,  amethyst,  and  sapphii'e,  blend  so 
as  to  reflect  celestial  coloring.  Descending 
towards  the  valley,  the  openings  grow  broader 
and  deeper,  until  the  ice  is  divided  into  trans- 
parent stalagmites  and  the  grandest  pyramids 
which  are  constantly  falling  in  pieces  and  un- 
loosing huge  bowlders  from  their  wintry  chains, 
while  beneath  roars  and  plunges  into  the  valley 
below  a  turbid  river.  Observing  the  glacier  at 
its  terminus,  we  cannot  doubt  that  it  is  inces- 
santly in  motion  ;  for  it  would  recede,  or  cease 
to  break  in  pieces,  were  it  not  descending  all 
the  while. 

The  Alps  are  now  lofty,  but  we  can  readily 
understand  how  this  glacier  with  hundreds  of 
others  in  the  ages  to  come,  will  grind  them 
down,  and  the  rivers  will  bear  them  on  to  the 
seas.  Still  now  it  would  seem,  no  other  land 
can  be  so  crowded  with  the  beautiful,  the 
picturesque,  and  the  sublime,  as  Switzerland. 
It  has  treasures  for  the  soul  of  more  than 
fairy  things.  The  granite  pinnacles,  so  tall, 
so  exquisitely  traced ;  the  glistening  columns  of 
whitest  snow ;  the  azure-tinted  glaciers ;  the 
deep,  sunny  vales ;  the  evergreen-mantled  hilb ; 


SWITZERLAND   AND   BERNE.  179 

the  silvery  Likes  ;  the  leaping  rills  ;  the  roaring 
cataracts  ;  the  crash  of  avahuiches  ;  the  aurora  of 
the  morning;  the  glow  of  the  evening ;  all  these 
and  inexpressil)ly  more,  will  long  continue  to 
ofier  real  pictures  to  the  painter,  ideal  inspira- 
tion to  the  poet,  and  sublimest  conceptix)as  to 
the  scholar. 

.  The  most  classic  spots  of  this  marvellous 
country,  are  about  Lake  Leman.  Looking  upon 
its  waters  now  in  the  summer  time,  one  can 
scarcely  guess  that  it  was  once  unruffled  by  the 
boatman's  oar  and  the  wheel  of  the  steamship ; 
that  the  trout  and  whitefish  ruled  supreme  in 
its  waters  ;  that  its  shores  were  desolate  wastes, 
and  haunts  only  of  bears,  wolves,  and  chamois. 
He  can  hardly  realize  now  that  it  was  formerly 
thus,  as  he  sees  numerous  boats  skimming 
its  surface,  and  heavy  steamers  ploughing  its 
depths,  while  its  shores  are  fringed  with  a  great 
variety  of  vegetation,  and  speckled  with  attrac- 
tive villages.  It  is  singular  why  its  waters 
should  look  so  cerulean,  and  in  places  when 
the  weather  is  fair,  why  its  surface  should  be 
elevated  several  feet,  and  thus  remain  for 
some  time  before  subsiding;  and  why  this 
phenomenon  should  occur  oftener  in  the  night 
than  in  the  day.  Science,  as  yet,  has  not  been 
able  to  solve  the  mystery. 


180      APTER-TIIOUGIITS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

Around  the  shores  of  this  lake,  when  Rome 
was  mistress  of  the  world,  dwelt  the  heroic 
Helvetians  who  delighted  to  follow  the  com- 
mands of  the  brave  Divico,  and  be  most  atten- 
tive to  the  eloquent  words  of  Orgetorix.  Here 
Caesar's  legions  fought  against  them  in  bloody 
battles ;  here  Ccecina  was  unmerciful  to  the 
vanquished,  and  spurned  the  earnest  entreaties 
of  Alpinula  to  spare  the  life  of  her  noble  father. 
In  later  times  courageous  men  were  more  suc- 
cessful in  wrenching  it  from  the  hands  of  tyrants, 
causing  it  to  blossom  with  freedom  and  pros- 
perity. Here  Calvin  struck  heavy  blows  in 
behalf  of  the  Reformation ;  here  Madame  de 
Sta€l  developed  her  exalted  womanhood ;  here 
Byron  found  a  muse  to  sing  some  of  his  sweetest 
carols ;  and  here  Gibbon  rounded  his  periods 
and  gave  the  finishing  touches  to  his  word-pic- 
tures of  Rome. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  lake  stands  the  city 
of  Geneva.  It  combines  the  old  and  the  new ; 
broad  thoroughfares  and  narrow  streets;  spacious 
buildings  and  huddled  houses ;  beauty  of  style 
and  quaintness  of  form.  The  centre  of  attrac- 
tion in  the  old  city  is  its  cathedral  in  which 
John  Calvin  used  to  preach.  The  canopy  over 
the  pulpit  is  the  same  as  when  the  great  reformer 
stood  under  it.     The  building  itself  dates  as  far 


SWITZERLAND   AND   BERNE.  181 

back  as  1024.  What  associations  cluster  around 
this  structure  !  What  a  power  Calvin  sent  forth 
from  it  into  the  world  !  He  dared  to  do  what 
he  felt  to  be  right.  Though  his  doctrines  may 
not  be  accepted,  yet  the  man  can  but  be  honored. 
The  college  of  Geneva  was  founded  by  him, 
which  has  added  not  a  little  to  the  character  of 
the  city.  Its  curriculum  now  embraces  nine 
courses  of  study.  It  has  some  twenty-five  pro- 
fessors connected  with  it,  and  a  library  of  sixty 
thousand  volumes  with  all  the  writings  of  Cal- 
vin, carefully  preserved.  It  has  a  museum 
containing  a  valuable  collection  of  animals  and 
minerals.  This  is  very  systematically  arranged, 
showing  the  regular  gradation  from  the  inor- 
ganic to  the  organic,  from  the  lowest  to  the  high- 
est forms  of  life.  In  the  Botanic  Garden,  over- 
hung by  the  walls  of  the  city  on  one  side,  and 
by  a  grove  of  stately  elms  on  the  other,  there 
is  manifested  the  same  system  as  in  the  museum. 

Rousseau's  Garden  which  stands  quite  in  the 
current  of  the  Rhone  on  leaving  the  lake,  is  a 
favorite  spot  to  the  Genevese.  They  delight  to 
visit  the  place  where  the  author  of  "Abelard" 
and  "The  Confessions,"  used  to  spend  much  of 
his  leisure  time.  It  is  now  graced  with  a  fair 
statue  of  their  honored  citizen. 

The  people  here  are  deeply  interested  in  the 


182      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

cause  of  education.  They  believe  in  having  good 
schools  for  all  classes,  and  furnish  the  best  ad- 
vantages for  studying  French  and  German.  For 
this  reason,  and  because  of  the  healthfulness  of 
the  city,  many  students  come  here  from  abroad 
to  pursue  these  languages. 

The  Genevese  are  a  busy  people.  Idlers  are 
scarce  in  the  streets  or  public  places.  Thousands 
of  men  and  women  are  engaged  in  manufactur- 
ing watches,  pocket-knives,  and  silk  fabrics. 
Many  of  the  shops  and  stores  present  a  rich 
display  of  jewelry  and  silks. 

In  the  time  of  the  Reformation,  Geneva  was 
a  refuge  for  the  oppressed  and  persecuted. 
During  that  period  a  new  translation  of  the 
Bible  was  brought  out  here.  Then  the  city  was 
strongly  Protestant ;  now  nearly  half  of  the 
population  is  Catholic.  Whatever  sect  may 
control  this  city,  it  is  bound  to  be  famous,  be- 
cause of  its  beauty  of  scenery  and  richness  of 
association.  It  will  be  souo:ht  after,  beino:  the 
birthplace  of  Bossuet  and  Saussure  as  natural- 
ists ;  DeCandolle  and  Boissier  as  botanists  ;  Riva 
and  Pictet  as  philosophers ;  Sismondi  and 
Madame  de  Stael  as  historians.  These  charac- 
ters alone  are  sufficient  to  render  a  city  forever 
memorable. 

Along  the  shore  of  the  lake   for   miles  are 


SWITZERLAND   AND   BERNE.  183 

rich  fields  and  pleasant  chateaus.  Studying  the 
natural  attractions  of  land,  water,  and  sky  about 
the  little  village  of  Coppet,  three  leagues  from 
Geneva,  one  can  readily  understand  why  Madame 
de  Stael  should  have  chosen  a  home  here,  while 
doing  her  best  work,  as  an  author.  Here  she 
lived  and  enjoyed  the  influence  of  her  father 
Necker,  the  distinguished  financier  and  minister 
of  Louis  XVI.  On  the  walls  of  the  ancient 
chateau  still  hang  the  portraits  of  father  and 
daughter.  Here  remains  her  study  still  fur- 
nished with  the  books  of  her  choice,  and  the 
table  on  which  she  wrote  some  of  her  imperish- 
able works.  A  short  distance  from  the  house  is 
the  chapel  in  which  rest  the  ashes  of  Necker 
and  Madame  de  Stael  in  the  midst  of  a  thick 
beech  grove  encompassed  by  a  strong  wall. 
How  beauty  of  scenery  is  enhanced  by  nobility 
of  soul ! 

At  Lausanne,  which  stands  on  ground  rising 
abruptly  from  the  shore  of  the  lake.  Gibbon 
caught  inspiration,  as  he  sat  in  the  open  air,  be- 
holding the  wondrous  picture  which  the  Great 
Artist  had  spread  out,  enabling  him  to  round 
his  periods  and  complete  his  great  history  of 
Eome.  Since  that  event  Lausanne  has  been  a 
ftivorite  resort  of  literary  pilgrims  to  this  land. 
Does  not  this  show,  however  exalted  the  natural 


184      AFTEB-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

may  be,  it  is  possible  for  the  mental  and  spirit- 
ual to  crown  it  with  still  brighter  glories  ? 

Near  the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  rises  above 
the  water  the  Castle  of  Chill  on.  It  was  built 
in  the  thirteenth  century  to  command  the  pass 
of  the  mountains  from  Valais  to  Vaud.  It  is  an 
enormous  structure  of  stone  and  stucco,  sur- 
mounted with  a  half-dozen  Gothic  towers.  Tra- 
dition and  history  tell  us  this  has  been  the 
seat  of  the  direst  cruelty  and  bloodshed.  Here 
Bonnivard,  the  patriot  and  native  of  Geneva, 
because  he  espoused  the  cause  of  his  republican 
city  and  defended  its  rights,  was  imprisoned  by 
the  Duke  of  Savoy.  Here  for  six  dreary  years 
he  was  chained  in  a  damp  dungeon  to  a  stone 
column  which  now  bears  record  of  the  awful 
deed.  The  grooves  are  evident  where  his  bare 
feet  wore  into  the  solid  rock  as  he  paced  back 
and  forth  the  length  of  his  four-foot  chain. 

"  Let  none  these  marks  efface; 

For  they  appeal  from  tyranny  to  God." 

If  Bonnivard  could  endure  all  this,  why  need 
any  be  crushed  by  trials,  or  burdens?  If  he 
could  hope  for  deliverance,  why  should  any 
despair  of  freedom  ?  In  1536  his  shackles  were 
broken  from  his  limbs  by  patriotic  soldiers  of 
his  native  city,  and  he  went  forth  doing  his  best 


SWITZERLAND   AND   BEENE.  185 

for  liberty  of  conscience  and  religious  freedom. 
His  was  a  noble  and  consecrated  life.  His 
name  will  be  lovingly  spoken  when  the  last 
vestige  of  the  old  castle  shall  have  fallen  be- 
neath the  waves.  No  longer  does  it  rise  above, 
the  waters  of  Lake  Leman  like  a  giant  of  tyran- 
ny, but  as  a  sentinel  of  peace,  bearing  aloft  the 
motto,  "  Libert i  et  Patriae." 

Berne  is  the  capital  of  Switzerland,  situated 
on  the  brow  of  a  hill  coiled  about  by  the  river 
Aar.  It  commands  extensive  views  in  the  dis- 
tance of  the  Oberland  and  Bernese  Alps.  The 
scenery  from  it  in  all  directions,  is  enchanting 
and  picturesque.  It  is  true,  these  distant  views 
of  the  Alps  are  not  so  exciting  as  the  nearer, 
still  they  do  lend  to  the  mind  a  subdued  and 
hallowing  influence  which,  no  doubt,  blesses 
quite  as  long. 

The  streets  of  Berne  are  curious  and  unique, 
yes,  odd  and  grotesque,  bordered  with  archi- 
tecture of  the  drollest  and  strangest  designs. 
Along  the  principal  highways  the  houses 
are  built  on  arcades  after  the  Italian  style. 
The  bears,  and  clock  towers  with  their  ugly 
pictures  and  ludicrous  carvings,  are  objects 
of  great  attraction.  The  bear  is  the  pet  of  the 
old  and  young.  Nearly  everybody  of  this  city 
has   a  bear  about   him   of   some    description. 


186      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

painted,  stamped,  or  sculptured.  The  Bernese 
are  decidedly  bearish. 

The  numerous  and  copious  fountains  in  the 
squares  and  at  the  corners  of  the  streets,  are 
designed,  it  would  appear,  to  excite  laughter. 
One  represents  an  ogre  in  the  act  of  devouring 
a  child,  while  his  pockets  are  full  of  children 
ready  for  future  consumption.  Below  this  fig- 
ure is  a  gi'oup  of  bears  dressed  in  full  armor. 

The  city  has  three  clock  towers  which  are 
curious  and  attractive.  One  of  them  is  sure  to 
allure  the  attention  of  the  natives,  as  well  as 
foreigners.  At  every  striking  of  the  clock  a 
marvellous  exhibition  takes  place  ;  a  cock  comes 
out,  claps  his  wings  and  crows  twice  before,  tlnd 
once  after  the  striking  of  the  hour ;  then  the 
figure  of  Time  turns  an  hour-glass  and  keeps 
time  with  the  clock-hammer  by  opening  its 
mouth  and  swinging  its  scythe ;  while  at  the 
same  time  a  troop  of  bears  dance  a  jig.  In 
honor  of  the  founder  of  the  city,  several  fine 
specimens  of  living  bears  are  kept  in  gorgeous 
style  at  public  expense.  The  Bernese  appear 
almost  to  worship  Bruin,  while  the  Genevese 
adore  the  stork,  and  Luzerne  reverences  the 
lion,  and  other  Swiss  cities  cherish  their  favor- 
ite guardian  animals. 

The    principal    building    of    Berne    is    the 


SWITZERLAND   AND  BERNE.  187 

cathedral,  a  Gothic  structure  of  the  fifteenth 
century.  One  on  entering  it  will  scarcely  fail 
to  notice  the  sculptures  of  the  Last  Judgment, 
over  the  main  door- way,  —  an  illustration  of 
medieeval  theology,  showing  the  mistaken  notions 
of  Scriptural  subjects  then  prevalent,  and  what 
the  demand  was  for  a  higher  order  of  interpre- 
tation and  spirituality.  The  carving  in  the 
choir,  and  the  painted  windows,  are  remarkable 
works  for  the  age  in  which  they  were  produced. 

The  college  of  Berne  compares  well  with  the 
colleges  of  Geneva  and  Lausanne,  the  universi- 
ties of  Basle  and  Zurich.  Its  citizens  manifest 
generally  a  deep  interest  in  the  cause  of  educa- 
tion. Their  library  of  thirty-five  thousand 
volumes,  their  museum  of  natiiral  history,  and 
their  public-school  system,  afford  evidence  of 
this.  Their  charitable  institutions  are  of  a  high 
order.  The  Bernese  are  fond  of  festive  gather- 
ings. So,  in  this  canton,  as  well  as  in  most  of 
the  others,  they  have  their  annual  gatherings 
at  which  they  display  their  characteristic  cos- 
tumes, manners,  and  habits,  exhibiting  their 
skill  in  archery,  rifle-shooting,  wrestling,  and 
various  other  games.  Their  festive  scenes  are 
unique  and  unlike  those  of  any  other  country. 

The  Swiss  are  a  religious  people,  being  di- 
vided into  three  fifths  Protestants,  and  two  fifths 


188      AFTER-XnOUGIITS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

Catholics.  The  former  are  still  separated  into 
Calvirtists,  Baptists,  and  Wesleyans.  The  re- 
lio^ious  thouofht  is  liberal  andadvancino:.  AVhile 
travelling,  as  we  observe  the  religious  tenden- 
cies, we  must  be  hopeful,  and  be  impressed  with 
the  feeling  of  a  divine  cause  at  work  for  the 
amelioration  and  security  of  the  race.  As 
we  witness  the  hosts  moved  by  thought  and 
will,  and  yet  somehow  in  spite  of  themselves, 
thwarted  in  the  wrong,  and  encouraged  in  the 
right,  we  can  but  recognize  a  Supreme  Being 
and  loving  Father  who  is  di  recti  no:  and  control- 
ling  in  the  physical  and  spiritual  realms. 

On  leaving  this  land  our  last  reflections  are 
quite  certain  to  be  centred  upon  its  unsurpassed 
scenery  which  is  sure  to  affect  the  mind  and 
heart,  as  its  works  of  art  and  forms  of  society 
cannot.  In  Switzerland  we  are  meeting  inces- 
santly with  the  things  that  artists  delight  to 
paint,  and  poets  to  praise ;  the  green  valleys, 
the  flower-bordered  streams,  the  evergreen  hills, 
the  granite  shafts,  the  snow-crowned  peaks,  and 
the  profound  solitudes  in  the  depths  below  and  on 
the  heights  above,  —  all  these,  and  ten  thousand 
more,  come  sweeping  before  the  eye,  as  we 
ramble  or  muse  in  this  land  of  beauty,  sub- 
limity, and  grandeur. 


VII. 

FLORENCE,  THE  ART  CITY. 

rr^HE  love  of  beauty  is  inherent  in  man.  The 
-*-  Sacred  Record  first  presents  him  to  the 
world  in  the  Garden  of  Eden.  This  implies 
that  he  had  a  natural  fondness  for  nature,  and 
would  delight  in  the  beautiful.  So  has  it 
ever  been.  David  sung  of  the  "green  pas- 
tures" and  the  "still  waters";  Homer  was 
charmed  with  the  muse  from  the  vale  and  the 
mountain ;  Virgil  was  inspired  by  the  land  and 
sea ;  Jesus  admired  the  lily  and  the  sparrow. 
Man  has  been  wont  to  seek  picturesque  places 
in  which  to  dwell.  Accordingly  the  Romans 
before  the  Christian  era,  had  established  con- 
siderable of  a  town  where  Florence  now  is, 
which  they  named  Florentia,  signifying  it 
abounded  in  flowers  and  natural  beauties.  It 
is  certain  nature  has  lavished  upon  it  munificent 
gifts.  Mountains  and  valleys,  hills  and  vales, 
forests  and  water,  so  commingle  as  to  form  an 
enchanting  picture.  The  Apennines  sweep 
round  the  east  and  north,  rising  some  three 


190      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

thousand  feet.  The  Tuscan  Highlands  press 
up  from  the  south  and  west.  The  summits  are 
bared  and  hoary ;  the  sides  far  up  are  flecked 
with  forest  trees;  the  spurs  and  flanks  are 
skirted  with  vineyards  and  olive  orchards ; 
while  the  extended  and  diversified  valley  in 
the  centre,  is  cut  in  twain  by  the  Arno,  and 
dotted  all  round  with  eight  thousand  villas, 
having  the  city  for  a  centre-piece,  like  a  dia- 
mond in  the  midst  of  mosaics  of  emerald  and 
quartz. 

Standing  on  the  heights  of  Fiesole,  one  has 
spread  out  before  and  around  him,  as  inviting 
and  enjoyable  a  landscape  as  can  anywhere  be 
found.  If  Rome  can  justly  be  called  the  sub- 
lime city ;  Venice,  the  romantic  city ;  Naples, 
the  pleasant  city ;  Genoa,  the  mercantile  city ; 
Bologna,  the  musical  city ;  Florence  can  prop- 
erly be  styled  the  beautiful  city. 

Leaving  the  high  grounds  and  entering  the 
city,  we  find  the  streets  narrow  and  the  build- 
ings substantial,  but  almost  destitute  of  orna- 
ments. In  fact,  as  we  walk  the  highways  and 
observe  the  grated  windows  and  the  solid 
masonry,  we  are  quite  inclined  to  feel  that  we 
are  either  in  the  midst  of  strong  fortifications, 
or  surrounded  by  numerous  prisons.  From  the 
lowest  to  the  highest  story  we  discover  little 


FLORENCE,    THE  ART  CITY.  191 

ornamentation ;  even  the  palaces  have  scarcely 
any  adornment.  We  are  naturally  inclined  to 
ask,  why  should  this  city  be  so  shorn  of  beau- 
tiful finish?  On  examination  this  becomes 
evident. 

History  informs  us  that  Florence  has  been 
subject  to  the  severest  vicissitudes ;  storm  and 
sunshine.  War  and  peace,  have  followed  one 
another  in  quick  succession.  In  the  sixth 
century  she  was  destroyed;  in  the  eighth, 
was  rebuilt ;  in  the  tenth,  became  a  republic ; 
in  the  fourteenth,  was  brought  under  the  Cath- 
olic control ;  in  the  sixteenth,  lost  her  freedom 
and  did  not  regain  her  liberty  till  the  present 
century.  Iler  struggles  with  the  Goths  and 
Huns  were  terrible  before  she  was  overcome. 
After  this  subjection,  followed  the  long  centu- 
ries of  strife  between  the  nobility  and  the 
peasantry.  The  former  could  be  safe  only  as 
they  fortified  themselves  within  the  strongest 
walls.  Had  they  decorated  their  buildings 
externally,  they  would  have  been  soon  defaced. 
So  they  looked  out  for  strength  and  durability. 

No  other  city  of  Italy  has  had,  perhaps, 
so  many  riotous  uprisings  and  drawbacks  as 
Florence,  yet  she  has  continued  to  advance, 
till  now  she  ranks  as  the  leading  art  city  of 
the  world.     By  no  means  was  she  the  first  town 


192      AFTEE-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

of  Italy  to  become  interested  in  the  fine  arts. 
In  fiict  she  was  among  the  last.  Not  until  the 
renascent  period  did  she  turn  her  attention  to 
works  of  art. 

Rome,  Ravenna,  Pavia,  Verona,  and  Pisa,  in 
mediaeval  times,  had  become  devoted  to  draft- 
ing, architecture,  and  sculpture;  particularly 
was  this  true  of  Pisa,  a  sister  city  situated  upon 
the  Arno.  Though  a  dead  city  now,  it  was,  in 
the  tenth  and  twelfth  centuries,  truly  alive. 
Then  her  liberties  astonished  Italy,  and  her 
commerce  was  a  marvel  to  the  world ;  then  her 
ships  bore  triumphant  crusaders  to  Asia,  and 
brought  bacis.  gold,  purple,  and  ivory ;  then  pi- 
rates dreaded  her  gleaming  lances  upon  the  sea  ; 
then  she  built  Campo  Santo ;  John  was  its 
architect,  Nicholas  its  sculptor,  Giotto  its 
painter.  The  kings  of  Judaea,  the  Pharaohs  of 
Egypt,  the  Caesars  of  Rome,  the  satraps  of  Ori- 
ental lands,  had  reared  splendid  monuments  to 
hold  their  ashes  and  perpetuate  their  fame  ;  but 
none  of  them  had  equalled  in  beauty  this  city 
of  the  dead.  She  stands  as  the  last  sad  poem  of 
the  Middle  Ages,  or  the  final  dirge  of  that  dark 
period  which  was  to  give  place  to  brighter  and 
happier  scenes.  At  that  time  Florence  was  en- 
joying her  fullest  freedom.  Some  of  her  citi- 
zens had  become  merchant  princes.      As  the 


FLORENCE,    THE   ART   CITY.  193 

mantle  fell  from  Pisa,  she  was  prepared  to  take 
it  up  and  put  it  on.  Her  wealthy  citizens  were 
becoming  patrons  of  art,  and  were  desirous  that 
their  city  should  become  graced  with  enduring 
monuments.  So,  such  inducements  were  offered 
as  to  bring  some  of  the  best  artists  of  Pisa  and 
other  cities  to  live  and  work  in  Florence.  At 
length  their  city  was  adorned  with  the  Duomo, 
the  Baptistry,  and  the  Campanile,  surpassing 
those  of  Pisa.  These  are  grand  structures  at 
the  present  day.  The  dome  of  the  cathedral  is 
said  to  be  the  larijest  one  in  the  world.  The 
bronze  doors  of  the  Baptistry,  are  covered  with 
reliefs  representing  Bible  history.  We  can  but 
examine  them  with  admiration,  when  we  con- 
sider the-  age  in  which  they  were  produced,  and 
not  think  strange  that  Michael  Angelo  should 
have  said  of  them,  "  They  are  worthy  to  become 
the  gates  of  Paradise."  Of  course  the  Duomo 
will  not  compare  favorably,  externally,  with 
that  of  Milan,  or  internally,  with  St.  Peter's. 
The  latter  are  the  outcome  of  the  former,  in 
part,  at  least;  or  I  think  we  may  say  with 
truth,  the  last  would  not  have  been  what  they 
are,  had  it  not  been  for  the  first.  Still,  if  we 
would  not  be  disappointed,  we  should  visit  the 
buildings  of  this  city  for  their  history,  not  their 
beauty ;    they  should  be  studied,   not    simply 


194      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

looked  at.  However,  many  of  the  villas  taken 
with  their  surroundings,  are  attractive  and  beau- 
tiful ;  but  for  the  most  part  we  search  these  old 
cities  more  for  history  than  any  outward  ex- 
pression, and  so,  frequently  we  find  the  ugliest 
places  the  most  inviting. 

In  this  city  of  a  hundred  and  seventy  thousand 
inhabitants,  no  spots  are  more  inviting  than  those 
where  some  of  her  greatest  heroes  lived,  wrought, 
and  died. 

The  place, likely  to  be  sought  first,  is  the  house 
of  Michael  Angelo  who  is  to  art,  what  Shake- 
speare is  to  literature.  As  we  come  to  the 
humble  house  where  he  lived,  we  cannot  easily 
refrain  from  deep  emotions  and  serious  reflec- 
tions. It  is  natural  to  recall,  how  he  early  ex- 
hibited a  daring  spirit  and  signs  of  real  genius ; 
how  at  seventeen  he  surpassed  in  invention  his 
teachers.  If  we  have  stood  under  the  dome 
of  St.  Peter's  and  the  frescoes  of  the  Sistine 
Chapel,  we  can  realize  how  it  would  have  been 
diflScult  to  teach  that  mind  which  could  conceive 
and  produce  such  works.  Greatness  of  concep- 
tion as  a  thinker,  and  greatness  of  style  as  an 
artist,  render  him  almost  peerless  among  peers. 
His  deeds  indue  the  old  with  sanctity  and  en- 
chantment. Places  which  have  known  him, 
are  replete  with    history;    and   history  gives 


FLORENCE,    THE   ART   CITY.  195 

value  to  the  very  stones  and  dust  which  the 
great  man  touched.  The  old  house  has  changed 
exceedingly  since  Angelo  left  it.  Thus  it  is 
with  matter,  but  not  so  with  mind.  Angelo  has 
grown  with  tlie  ages,  and  will  continue  to  grow 
through  the  centuries  to  come.  His  ashes  rest 
in  a  beautiful  tomb  in  Santa  Croce,  but  he  lives 
in  his  works.  How  could  it  be  otherwise? 
Leonardo  and  Raphael  stood  before  them  with 
admiration.  Millions  of  hearts  have  caught  in- 
spiration from  them :  such  results  are  blessed 
and  pay  the  greatest  possible  reward  to  man. 
Immortal  honor,  but  justly  due  to  the  world's 
greatest  architect,  sculptor,  and  painter  ! 

Somewhere  among  the  clustered  houses  Dante 
had  his  birth  in  1265.  It  matters  but  little,  if 
we  cannot  find  just  the  spot,  for  it  was  in  this 
delightful  valley  that  he  first  looked  out  upon 
mortal  things.  It  is  a  fit  place  for  a  poet  to  be 
born.  It  is  full  of  changing  beauty  and  sub- 
limity. Somehow  great  geniuses  have  always 
found  their  way  into  this  world,  where  nature 
offers  decided  variety  of  scenery.  The  plain, 
and  desert  have  seldom  been  propitious  to  the 
poet  and  scholar.  Here  by  the  banks  of  the 
Arno,  or  on  the  mountain's  brow,  Dante  found 
his  muse  that  breathed  into  his  soul  the  marvel- 
lous religious  song  of  the  Middle  Ages.     Judaea 


196      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

had  sent  forth  David  as  the  sweet  singer  of 
Israel ;  Greece  had  found  a  heroic  bard  in  Ho- 
mer ;  now  Italy  would  have  the  sweetest  notes 
drop  from  her  lyre,  and  Dante  is  the  chosen  one 
to  touch  the  chords.  So  far,  these  were  the 
world's  three  great  poets :  each  the  greatest  in 
his  way ;  each  singing  what  he  felt  to  be  truest. 
Dante's  youth  was  cheety,  and  favored  with 
the  best  advantages  of  the  times.  But  as  he  be- 
gan to  mingle  in  public  affairs,  his  way  became 
devious  and  thorny.  His  sense  of  duty  bid 
him,  go  not  with  the  majority.  He  avowed 
himself  a  Bianchi,  and  opposed  to  the  Neri. 
On  this  account  he  was  banished  from  his  be- 
loved city.  This  together  with  disappointed 
love,  suffused  his  heart  with  deepest  sorrow ; 
and  his  countenance  ever  after  wore  the  expres- 
sion of  angelic  sadness  ;  but  out  of  this  stricken 
condition  at  length  came  his  "  La  Divina  Comme- 
dia."  We  cannot  understand,  why  it  is,  never- 
theless it  is  true,  that  the  highest  conceptions, 
the  clearest  visions,  the  noblest  thoughts,  have 
been  born  out  of  tribulation  and  sorrow.  Pos- 
sibly temporal  prosperity  is  not  fiivorable  to 
spiritual  life  and  growth.  Dante's  pen  paints 
the  most  vivid  pictures  of  the  "Inferno,"  '^Pur- 
gatorio,"  and  "Paradiso."  No  artist  could  be 
more  faithful  to  his  own  ideal.     We  may  criti- 


FLORENCE,    THE   ART   CITY,  197 

cise  his  thought  as  best  we  can,  still  we  must 
allow  that  his  poem  is  a  marvellous  production. 
It  has  served  to  stir  the  very  depths  of  souls. 
Great  effects  come  only  of  great  causes. 

Long  silence  had  brooded  over  the  Latin 
song.  Some  twelve  centuries  had  elapsed  since 
the  lyres  of  Horace  and  Virgil  had  been  laid 
aside.  The  Latin  language  had  ceased  to  be 
spoken  ;  and  now  far  down  in  the  Christian  age, 
Dante  in  the  Italian  tongue,  takes  up  the  refrain, 
singing  a  new  song  to  go  down  through  the  ages. 

Some  have  said,  if  it  had  not  been  for 
prophet,  Grecian  bard,  Latin  poet,  Dante  never 
could  have  produced  such  a  poem.  Very  likely ; 
so  we  may  say  of  Shakespeare,  Tennyson,  and 
Whittier,  that  they  would  not  be  what  they  are, 
had  it  not  been  for  Dante  and  the  hosts  that 
went  on  before.  Every  stream  that  has  flowed 
from  the  mountains  of  thought,  has  helped  swell 
the  river  of  life  to  its  present  fulness. 

Dante  died  and  was  buried  in  Ravenna.  In 
Santa  Croce  has  been  erected  a  monument  to 
his  memory.  The  Florentines  have  done  their 
best  to  secure  his  mortal  remains,  and  so  have 
them  interred  in  their  city,  but  to  no  purpose. 

The  magistrates  of  Florence  proposed  in  his 
last  years  that  he  should  return,  on  condition 
of  apologizing  and  paying  a  fine.     His  mag- 


198       AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

naniraous  reply  was,  "If  I  cannot  return  with- 
out calling  myself  guilty,  I  shall  never  return." 
He  never  did  return,  and  so  sealed  his  life  with 
the  fullest  assurance  that  he  was  right;  but 
"  un2:rateful  Florence  "  has  confessed  her  wron^: 
by  doing  her  utmost  to  bring  back  his  mortal 
remains  to  his  native  city.  If  he  died  poor  and 
oppressed,  he  made  a  record  always  to  live. 
When  Florence  that  doomed  him  to  be  burnt 
alive,  wheresoever  caught,  shall  have  crumbled 
into  dust,  the  name  of  Dante  will  be  undimmed 
and  revered  by  the  scholar  and  Christian. 

Go  now  to  the  Piazza  del  Granduca.  This  is 
a  large  square,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  old 
buildings,  and  on  the  fourth  with  a  frowning 
palace  which  was  built  four  centuries  ago.  Close 
by  it  stands  Angelo's  colossal  statue  of  David, 
triumphant  in  his  youthful  beauty ;  beyond  this 
is  a  hideous  fountain  where  once  stood  the 
Tribune,  which  was  wont  to  ring  with  the  elo- 
quence of  a  free  people.  Not  far  off  is  the 
equestrian  statue  of  Cosmo,  the  founder  of  the 
Medicean  family.  'In  another  part  under  an  open 
arcade  are  grouped  many  statues ;  some  of 
them  of  superior  merit. 

Here  it  was  in  this  square  on  the  23d  of 
May,  1498,  a  riotous  mob  rushed  together,  that 
they  might  witness   the  death  of  Savonarola: 


FLORENCE,    THE    ART   CITY.  199 

and  why?  Because  before  Luther's  day,  he  had 
publicly  exposed  the  corruptions  of  the  priests 
and  the  Romish  Church.  From  his  dungeon  of 
torture,  as  he  was  led  forth,  a  roar  of  vengeance 
went  up  from  the  crowd,  "Put  him  to  death"  ; 
at  the  same  time  prayers  went  up  from  loving 
hearts,  beseeching  God  to  sustain  the  good  man. 
The  priest  in  charge  said,  "I  separate  thee  from 
the  church  militant."  "But,"  responded  the 
dying  man  with  the  look  of  an  angel,  "  thou  canst 
not  separate  me  from  the  church  triumphant." 
Then  they  hanged  him  and  burned  his  body  in 
this  very  square.  So  the  eloquent  orator,  the 
earnest  teacher,  and  noble  martyr,  went  out  of 
this  world  ;  but  his  light  was  not  extinguished  ; 
the  truth  he  had  uttered  was  not  destroyed  ;  his 
vile  persecutors  who  put  him  to  death,  are  for- 
gotten, but  the  name  of  Savonarola  is  immortal. 
Some  two  miles  from  the  city  proper,  upon  a 
high  hill,  stands  a  brick  and  stone  structure 
showing  the  wear  of  centuries  ;  really  the  stern 
hand  of  time  has  left  many  a  scar  *  upon  its 
walls.  From  the  hill,  and,  especially,  from 
the  tower,  or  observatory,  there  is  an  extensive 
outlook  over  one  of  the  finest  landscapes  any- 
where to  be  found.  Though  nature  has  thrown 
around  this  height  such  unsurpassed  beauty  and 
magnificence,    still   it   has   other    and    greater 


200      AFTER-THOUGHTS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

attractions ;   for  here  it  was  that  a  noble  mind 
thought,  studied,  and  looked  through  the  first 
telescope  into  the  night  heavens,  and  then  solved 
some   of  the  grandest  mysteries.      Here    and 
then  it  was  that  the  Ptolemaic  system  of  as- 
tronomy was  dethroned,  and  the  planetary  sys- 
tem established.     Here  it  was  that  the  milky 
way  was  discovered  to  be  made  up  of  an  inumer- 
able  number  of  fixed  stars.     I  need  scarcely 
^say,  this  is  the  house  where  Galileo  lived  for 
years,  watching  and  studying  the  phenomena  of 
the  heavens.     As  we  mount  the  observatory, 
we  can  see  where  his  telescope  stood,  —  that  first 
telescope,  and  made  by  his  own  hands.     Just 
under  the  place  of  lookout  is  the  studio  in  which 
the  great  man  solved  so  many  difficult  pro])lems  ; 
here  are  to  be  seen  his  chair,  table,  and  plotting 
instruments,  very  much  as  he  left  them.     Here, 
no  doubt,  he  wrote  his  dialogues  on  the  Ptole- 
maic and  Copernican  systems  for  which  he  was 
summoned  to  Rome,  his  book  ordered   to   be 
burned,  and  he  was  sentenced  to  be  imprisoned, 
in  order  to  make  recantation  of  his  errors,  and  by 
way  of  penance,  to  recite  once  a  week  the  seven 
penitential  psalms.     To  regain  his  liberty,  he 
was  forced   by   inquisitorial   authority   on  his 
knees  to  say,   "I  abjure,  curse,  and  detest  the 
heresy  that  the  earth  moves  round  the  sun,  and 


FLORENCE,    THE    ART   CITY.  201 

swear  that  for  the  future  I  will  never  say  or  as- 
sert anything  which  can  raise  a  similar  suspicion 
against  me."  Kising  from  his  knees,  he  is  said 
to  have  whispered  to  a  friend,  "It  moves  for  all 
that."  Regaining  his  liberty,  he  returned  to 
this  house  where  he  continued  his  observations, 
till  he  became  blind  from  intense  application, 
and  here  he  died  in  1642,  at  the  age  of  seventy- 
eight  years,  having  greatly  enriched  the  world 
by  his  productions.  His  "  Mathematical  Dis- 
courses and  Demonstrations,"  his  "Treatise  on 
the  Mundane  Sphere,"  and  many  other  works, 
are  still  studied  by  the  scholar  and  thinlier. 
Truth  is  sure  to  endure  ;  error  is  certain  to  fail. 
Galileo's  name  to-day  is  the  synonyme  through- 
out the  civilized  world  of  genius,  investigator, 
revealer  of  scientific  truth  and  lover  of  humanity. 
His  remains  are  entombed  in  Santa  Croce,  the 
Westminster  Abbey  of  his  adopted  city. 

Angelo,  Dante,  Savonarola,  and  Galileo,  were 
all  Protestants  and  republicans.  This  is  a  sig- 
nificant fact,  when  we  consider  the  epochs  in 
which  they  lived.  While  Florence  enjoyed  true 
freedom,  she  continued  to  flourish ;  but  as  she 
lost  her  liberty  in  the  sixteenth  century,  blight 
came  upon  her,  and  great  men  ceased  to  be  born 
to  her.  Then  priestcraft  multiplied  its  power, 
all  the  while  sapping  her  very  vitals.     Thus  she 


202      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TBAVJIL. 

was  languishing,  till  the  present  century,  when 
Cavour  and  Garibaldi  were  raised  up,  it  would 
seem,  on  purpose  to  rescue  Italy  from  utter 
ruin  and  redeem  her  perishing  cities.  These 
heroes  so  roused  the  people  that  they  wrenched 
the  iron  grasp  of  priestcraft  from  the  land,  and 
virtually  restored  a  democratic  form  of  govern- 
ment. Then  it  was,  Florence  took  a  new  start, 
becoming  for  years  the  capital  of  Italy.  Pros- 
perity smiled  anew  upon  the  city  ;  her  arts  were 
revived;  her  natural  and  artificial  advantages 
were  so  improved  as  to  become  most  attractive 
to  seekers  after  art  and  beauty.  Her  galleries 
and  museums  were  rearranged  and  enlarged ; 
her  Uffizi  and  Pitti  became  the  galleries  of 
Europe ;  and  Florence  was  acknowledged  the 
art  city  of  the  world. 

We  cannot  say  much  in  favor  of  the  buildings 
containing  these  works.  The  halls  and  rooms 
are  not  equal  to  the  demands ;  they  come  far 
short  of  doing  justice  to  the  paintings  and  sculp- 
tures. However,  the  piazza  of  the  Uffizi  looks 
very  imposing,  adorned  with  its  numerous  statues 
of  distinguished  Tuscans ;  among  them  we  find 
Cosmo  and  Lorenzo  de  Medici,  for  statesmen ; 
Dante,  Petrarch,  Boccaccio,  Machiavelli,  Guic- 
ciardini,  for  men  of  letters ;  Giotto,  Orcagna, 
Nicholas,  Angelo,  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Cellini, 


FLORENCE,    THE   ART   CITY.  203 

Donatello,  for  artists ;  and  Galileo  as  the 
astronomer.  Its  works  within  are  considered 
the  most  choice  and  varied  of  any  gallery. 
Entering  the  Tribune,  and  as  we  look  at  the 
marbles  and  then  at  the  pictures,  we  are  ready 
to  say,  unsurpassed.  Here  is  the  Venus  de 
Medici  which  Lord  Byron  said,  "  enchants  the 
world."  This  is  certainly  true,  if  it  is  the  sen- 
sual eye  alone  that  is  to  be  enchanted ;  for 
nothing  of  human  shape  was  ever  conceived 
more  lovely  than  that  sainted  face,  the  placid 
forehead,  the  delicately  refined  nose,  the  serious 
mouth  all  ready  to  break  into  a  smile,  the  deli- 
cate hand,  the  graceful  arm,  the  yielding  lines 
and  touching  beauties  of  the  whole  figure.  Yes, 
there  she  stands  in  the  attitude  of  gentle  alarm 
and  perfect  modesty.  A  seraph  in  form  cannot 
be  any  more  beautiful.  Surely  the  mind  that 
conceived  such  beauty,  was  working  for  im- 
mortality. On  the  walls  above  are  Raphael's 
"  Madonna  del  Pozzo,"  "  St.  John  in  the  Des- 
ert "  ;  Titian's  "  Venus  " ;  Leonardo  da  Vinci's 
"  Adoration  of  the  kings  "  ;  Rubens'  "  Hercu- 
les between  Vice  and  Virtue " ;  and  some 
twenty  other  pictures  of  the  old  masters.  Of 
all  the  many  rooms  in  the  gallery,  this  is 
the  one  where  the  cultured  in  aesthetic  art  are 
certain  to  linger.     Here  such  must  catch  new 


204      AFTER-THOUGHTS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

inspiration  and  thoughts  of  the  beautiful  and 
the  spiritual. 

The  Pitti  Gallery  is  very  rich  and  extensive, 
containing  many  of  the  best  works  of  Angelo, 
Titian,  Salvator  Rosa,  Andrea  del  Sarto, 
Murillo,  Rubens,  and  Raphael's  celebrated 
"Madonna  della  Se<;o:iola."  The  last  one  is 
suflScient  to  render  the  gallery  famous.  This 
is  the  sweetest  of  all  the  great  artist's  Madon- 
nas ;  it  is  the  expression  of  unsophisticated 
nature ;  as  you  look  at  it,  life  fresh  from  the 
divine  hand  seems  to  speak  of  purity,  vir- 
tue, grace,  innocence,  spiritual  charms.  It  is 
worthy  to  be  greatly  admired  and  extensively 
copied,  and  its  beauty  and  influence  scattered 
to  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth.  It  is  a 
prophecy,  a  poem,  a  revelation  from  the  All- 
Perfect  to  help  perfect  man.  So  it  is  not  in 
vain  that  artists  have  labored.  Theirs  is  a 
high  calling,  as  well  as  that  of  apostle,  or 
philosopher. 

No  doubt,  these  galleries  have  had  not  a 
little  to  do  in  mouldini?  the  habits  and  charac- 
ters  of  the  people  of  Florence,  who  exhibit 
refinement  of  manner  and  lanojuaije  which  are 
manifest  in  all  ranks.  In  fact  they  are  deeply 
interested  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest  in  the 
fine   arts,   and   lend    their   influence   in   every 


FLORENCE,    THE   ART   CITY.  205 

way  to  promote  them,  requiring  their  elements 
to  be  taught  in  their  schools.  Art  and  mental 
culture  are  not  antagonistic,  but  cooperative. 
This  truth  should  be  felt  and  put  into  general 
practice.  It  ought  to  be  emphasized  in  our 
own  land.  It  is  true  we  have  done  something 
in  the  way  of  laying  out  parks,  cultivating 
gardens,  beautifying  cemeteries,  building  fine 
houses,  and  decorating  hall  and  church. 

It  is  said  that  Michael  Angelo  once  visited 
Raphael's  studio  in  his  absence,  and  under  one 
of  his  early  and  modest  efforts,  drew  a  heavy 
line,  writing,  '^Amplius."  Raphael  on  his  re- 
turn recognized  that  to  be  the  criticism  of  An- 
gelo,  and  he  felt  it  was  just ;  he  took  courage 
and  pressed  on  till  he  became  master  of  his  call- 
ing. So  we,  Americans,  have  done  enough  in 
the  line  of  art  to  give  us  courage  to  press  on, 
and  at  no  distant  day  we  may  feel  assured  that 
we  shall  have  an  American  school  of  art,  not  in- 
ferior to  the  best  on  the  other  side  of  the  Atlan- 
tic. Already  we  have  sculptors,  painters,  and 
architects,  whose  names  we  can  speak  with 
satisfaction.  Our  Powers,  Rogers,  Story,  Hos- 
mer,  as  sculptors  ;  Bierstadt,  Brown,  and  Coop- 
er, as  painters  ;  and  others,  are  doing  honor  to 
our  country  by  their  works.  They  will  bear 
favorable   comparison  with  the  artists   of  any 


206      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

other  land.  But  have  we  appreciated  them  as 
we  should?  Are  we  cultivating  the  ajs^thctic 
natures  of  the  young  in  our  schools  as  we 
ought?  Beauty  has  value,  as  well  as  the  dollar. 
Ideality  should  not  be  weighed  down  by  ava- 
rice. True  culture  will  bless  our  rising  gen- 
erations more  than  mere  bank  stock  or  railroad 
shares. 

There  are  many  public  out-door  places  of  in- 
terest in  Florence.  The  Boboli  Gardens,  named 
from  a  family  that  once  lived  in  the  vicinity,  are 
considerably  diversified  as  to  surface,  and  are 
cut  up  into  walks  and  drives  ornamented  with 
arbors  of  flowers,  fountains,  and  statuary,  so  as 
to  be  very  inviting  to  lovers  of  the  beautiful. 
Joining  these  is  the  Botanic  Garden  which  is 
famous  for  its  rare  plants. 

The  Cascine  Park  is  the  resort  for  those  who 
would  make  a  display  of  equestrian  and  fashion- 
able equipages.  It  is  the  St.  Cloud,  or  Hyde 
Park,  of  Florence.  Here  the  people  spend 
much  time  in  driving  and  promenading.  They 
hold  fine  horses  and  elegant  carriages,  as  well 
as  silk  dresses  and  broadcloth  coats,  in  high 
estimation.  The  laboring  classes,  as  a  rule,  are 
industrious.  Hands  are  usually  busy,  whether 
cutting  the  marble,  setting  mosaics,  spinning 
silk,  trimming  vines,  spading  the  garden,    or 


FLORENCE,    THE   ART    CITY.  207 

sweeping  the  streets.  They  are  obliged  to  be 
active  in  order  to  gain  the  necessaries  of  life, 
for  living  is  dear,  and  taxes  exorbitant.  Since 
the  capital  vras  transferred  to  Rome,  the  city 
financially  has  been  severely  de[)ressed.  The 
change  in  a  monetary  sense  was  a  great  mis- 
fortune to  Florence,  though  a  good  fortune  to 
Rome.  However,  in  a  moral  aspect,  it  may  be 
right  the  reverse,  as  has  often  been  the  case 
with  individuals,  cities,  and  nations. 

Just  outside  of  the  city  wall  on  the  east  is  a 
little  acre  of  ground  which  cannot  be  easily  for- 
gotten by  Americans  and  Englishmen  ;  it  is  the 
English  Cemetery.  Now  it  is  thickly  sown  with 
graves ;  many  of  them  being  the  final  resting- 
place  of  those  who  sought  Florence  for  the  sake 
of  art,  or  health.  The  stones  bear  record  of 
many  familiar  towns  and  cities  in  our  own  coun- 
try. Here  is  the  grave  of  Theodore  Parker. 
It  is  marked  by  a  plain  marble  slab  with  the  in- 
scription, "Theodore  Parker,  born  at  Lexing- 
ton, Massachusetts,  United  States  of  America, 
August  24th,  1810.  Died  at  Florence,  May 
10th,  1860."  Though  we  may  not  accept  Mr. 
Parker's  theology  in  full,  still  we  can  but 
cherish  deep  feelings  of  respect  for  one  who 
made  himself  a  distinguished  scholar,  and 
proved  himself  a  true  philanthropist. 


208      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

Another  grave  which  must  be  very  dear  to 
every  lover  of  poetry,  is  that  of  Mrs.  Elizabeth 
Barrett  Browning,  who  with  the  heart  of  woman, 
united  the  learning  of  the  scholar  to  the  genius 
of  the  poet.  Over  her  grave  is  a  monumental 
urn  having  upon  one  side  her  full-sized  profile, 
and  on  the  other,  unstrung  harps  of  exquisite  de- 
signs. She  passed  on  into  the  "beautiful  light," 
beloved  and  lamented. 

Another  green  mound  that  must  seem  pecul- 
iarly dear  to  every  American,  is  that  one  con- 
taining: the  mortal  remains  of  Hiram  Powers. 
He  was  born  in  America,  and  was  always  a  true 
American,  though  he  lived  and  worked  many 
years  in  a  foreign  land.  He  really  possessed  a 
genius  of  a  high  order.  This  early  began  to 
express  itself,  even  while  he  was  a  boy  among 
the  ffreen  hills  of  his  native  Vermont.  But  his 
was  a  genius  directed  by  moral  power ;  so  that 
while  he  lived,  it  kept  blossoming  into  higher 
and  higher  conditions.  All  who  have  looked 
upon  his  "  Greek  Slave,"  or  his  "  Christ,"  must 
feel  that  heaven  bestowed  upon  him  special 
gifts.  His  art  expresses  more  than  the  sensu- 
ous. His  marbles  seem  to  be  the  embodiment 
of  living  souls;  at  least,  they  speak  of  the 
spiritual.  So  his  works  are  destined  to  live. 
Whether  his  "  Eve,"  "United  States,"  "Wash- 


FLOKENCE,    THE   ART   CITY.  209 

ington,"  "  California,"  '"  La  Penserosa,"  and 
many  others,  grace  hall  or  square,  they  are 
certain  to  impart  a  benign  influence ;  they  will 
always  breathe  of  high  possibilities  to  faithful 
and  aspiring  souls. 

In  1805  Hiram  Powers  came  into  this  world 
amidst  poverty  and  difficulties,  but  by  his  own 
efforts  and  the  help  of  God  he  made  life  a  grand 
success.  In  Cincinnati  where  he  toiled  in  the 
museum;  in  Washington  where  he  moulded 
clay  so  successfully ;  and  in  Florence  where  he 
created  his  models  and  gave  the  final  touches  to 
his  statues,  he  will  still  be  known  as  one  faith- 
ful to  God  and  man.  Florence  is  glad  to  claim 
him  as  her  inhabitant,  and  America  is  rejoiced 
to  own  him  as  her  son.  If  his  ashes  shall 
serve  to  nourish  and  render  more  beautiful  the 
grass  and  flowers  of  a  foreign  land,  his  life  will 
continue  to  feed  and  beautify  countless  souls  of 
his  own  beloved  America,  proving  that  man, 
noble  and  exalted,  —  that  epitome  of  creation, 
that  mind  subject  to  the  laws  of  the  universe, 
that  vegetable  which  connot  live  without  air, 
light,  and  water,  that  animal  born  to  be  nour- 
ished like  other  mammalia,  that  microcosm 
whose  crown  is  arched  like  the  vault  of  heaven 
and  whose  eye  kindles  brighter  than  the  stars, 
that   being   little    lower  than  the  seraphs   and 


210      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

above  all  other  mortals,  —  cannot  die,  but  as 
poet,  musician,  artist,  philosopher,  scholar,  or 
faithful  servant  of  the  Most  High,  is  sure  to 
live  in  the  hearts  of  men  and  angels. 


YIII. 

MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  ROME. 

TN  nearly  the  same  latitude  as  Boston  and 
some  five  thousand  miles  to  the  eastward 
is  situated  the  Eternal  City.  It  stands  in  the 
centre  of  undulating  prairie  lands,  spreading 
out  in  all  directions.  Far  away  to  the  north 
are  the  Etrurian  Hills  and  Sabine  Mountains ; 
to  the  east,  the  Apennines ;  to  the  south,  the 
Alban  Hills  ;  and  to  the  west,  the  Mediterranean 
Sea.  These  lands  are  somewhat  diversified  with 
swelling  downs  and  woodless  ravines,  with  grassy 
plats  and  miry  bogs,  with  crooked  streams  and 
sandy  knolls,  with  ancient  ruins  and  scattered 
buildings. 

The  mountains  vary  from  one  thousand  to 
five  thousand  feet  in  height.  Their  summits 
are  bald  and  white ;  their  sides  are  green  with 
grass,  or  spotted  with  pine,  chestnut,  olive,  oi* 
mulberry  trees.  At  their  bases  are  situated 
several  villages  of  historical  note.  In  some  of 
these  there  are  costly  villas  and  elegant  works 
of  art.      But  the  Campagna  generally,  is  un- 


212      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

cultivated  and  desolate.  It  is  singular,  it  should 
be  so,  for  the  soil  is  rich  and  arable;  still  re- 
port and  superstition  affirm,  it  is  unhealthy  and 
poisoned  with  malaria.  No  doubt,  the  hand  of 
industry  and  fortitude  could  change  these  waste 
places  into  innoxious  and  fruitful  fields.  Were 
it  possible,  I  imagine  American  enterprise  would 
delight  to  make  the  experiment,  and  I  am  sure, 
it  would  prove  a  success ;  so  that  no  longer 
would  it  be  poor  pasturage  for  flocks  of  goats, 
and  herds  of  white  oxen,  but  would  smile  with 
fields  of  wheat  and  clover. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  water  from  the 
Alban  Lake  some  twelve  miles  distant,  and  is 
carried  in  a  stone  aqueduct  resting  on  heavy 
piers,  and  so  adjusted  as  to  have  a  gradual 
descent  from  the  lake  to  the  city.  It  presents 
a  grand  appearance  stretching  across  the  wide 
plain. 

The  river  Tiber  plays  an  important  part,  as 
it  coils  its  way  through  the  upper  portion  of 
the  Campagna.  Though  song  and  story  have 
clothed  this  river  with  fascinating  charms,  yet 
the  real  is  almost  certain  to  detract  somewhat 
from  the  ideal.  It  resembles  a  good- sized  brook 
in  our  land  just  after  a  heavy  shower,  Avash- 
ing  in  sand,  mud,  and  clay,  enough  to  make 
its  waters  thick  and  yellow  with  sediment.    No 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  EOME.      213 

wonder  Yirgil  christened  it  Flavus  Tibiris,  No 
doubt,  it  was  once  larger  than  now.  In  ancient 
times  it  may  have  been  navigable  as  far  up  as 
Rome  for  ships  of  great  burdens,  but  it  is  cer- 
tain, its  waters  are  not  now  sufficient  to  float  the 
smallest  crafts  from  the  sea. 

Under  the  aqueous  formation  of  these  plains 
are  found  large  quarries  of  travertine  stone, 
which  is  extensively  used  for  building  purposes. 
It  would  seem,  this  stone  must  have  been  formed 
by  submarine  igneous  agencies.  The  indica- 
tions are,  this  whole  region  was  once  active 
with  volcanoes,  for  many  extinct  craters  are  to 
be  seen,  and  lava  is  cropping  out  on  every 
hand,  bearing  ample  testimony  of  great  volcanic 
revolutions. 

The  climate  of  Rome  is  not  subject  to  such 
extreme  changes,  as  that  of  our  own  land  in  the 
same  latitude.  In  the  hottest  days  the  mercury 
seldom  rises  above  OO'^  Fahrenheit,  or  in  the  cold- 
est weather,  falls  so  low  as  the  freezing  point. 
In  the  winter  months  there  are  occasionally  flur- 
ries of  snow.  During  the  cold  season  they  have 
a  great  deal  of  fog,  but  not  so  much  and  so  thick 
as  in  London,  but  vastly  more  than  we  have  in 
America.  As  much  clothing  is  required  there, 
as  here  for  comfort.  Not  in  the  future  as  in 
the   past,  will  this  city  be  a  resort  for   those 


214      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

afflicted  with  chronic  and  lung  diseases.  Its 
cemetery  for  strangers  bears  a  sad  record  of 
many  who  have  sought  it,  hoping  to  find  relief 
and  health.  Some  disorders,  however,  which 
are  destructive  here,  are  harmless  there.  This 
is  true  of  croup,  scarletina,  and  measles ;  yet 
fevers  waste  there,  as  never  here ;  so  what  is 
gained  in  some  respects,  is  lost  in  others.  Thus 
it  is,  when  we  strike  the  balance,  we  usually 
find  the  common  blessings  of  life  equally  dis- 
tributed. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Campagna  once  stood 
pagan  Rome,  now  stands  papal  Rome.  How 
significant  these  names !  How  they  touch  the 
mind  with  early  memories  I  We  can  but  recall 
those  school-days,  when  with  difficulty  we  read 
how  Romulus  founded  the  ancient  city,  and 
Remus  lost  his  life  while  deriding  its  insig- 
nificance. In  fancy  we  see  them  while  boys 
nourished  by  a  wolf.  We  behold  earlier,  ^neas 
and  his  companions  landing  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Tiber,  fugitives  from  Troy,  sending  an  embassy 
to  King  Latinus.  Afterwards,  when  war  broke 
out  between  the  Trojans  and  the  Romans,  we 
see  iEneas  sailing  up  the  Tiber  to  strike  a  truce 
with  Evander,  the  Arcadian  king,  that  he  might 
gain  his  friendship  ;  but  in  spite  of  his  best  en- 
deavors the  war  raged,  the  contendjjig  armies 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  ROME.      215 

grew  farious,  and  in  the  heat  of  battle,  we 
behold  Turnus,  the  king  of  the  Eutulians  and 
the  Trojan  hero  fiercely  contending  for  the 
hand  of  Lavinia. 

I  realize  these  are  but  fables,  still  memory 
has  such  a  hold  upon  them  that  historical  criti- 
cism, however  severe  and  just,  will  never  be 
able  to  efiace  them  altogether.  These  have 
clothed  the  seven  hills  with  exciting  romance 
and  lastino:  associations.  But  so  lon^:  as  stone 
and  brick  and  hills  shall  last,  so  long  will  pagan 
Rome  live.  However,  at  the  present,  the 
modern  city  claims  our  attention. 

This  is  not  so  old  as  some  towns  in  our  own 
country.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  fourteen 
miles  in  length,  and  fifty  feet  high  on  the  out- 
side. It  is  made  of  brick  and  stone  and  crested 
with  three  hundred  towers.  The  walls  enclose 
the  new  and  the  site  of  the  old  city,  and  are 
penetrated  by  thirteen  gates.  Entering  within 
the  walls,  we  find  the  new  city  is  situated  to  the 
north  of  the  ancient  in  what  was  the  Campus 
Martins,  lying  between  the  Tiber  on  the  north, 
the  Pincian  hill  on  the  east,  the  Capitoline  on 
the  south,  and  the  Janiculum  on  the  west. 
The  Tiber  runs  through  the  northern  and  west- 
ern portions.  The  city  is  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  in  length  and  a  mile  in  width ;  of  course 


216      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

the  distance  between  the  walls  is  greater.  The 
first  introduction  to  Rome  is  quite  likely  to 
shock  the  stranger's  imagination,  inflamed  by 
poetical  and  historical  descriptions.  He  is  sur- 
prised to  find  modern  Rome  so  unlike  the  city 
of  the  Ca3sars.  In  one  respect  only  is  the  new 
like  the  old ;  it  is  built  of  the  same  kind  of  stone. 
Though  cherished  fancies  meet  with  such 
disappointment,  yjct  there  is  something  about 
the  present  city  which  does  attract  and  fasci- 
nate. There  are  two  things  within  its  limits, 
the  one  ancient,  and  the  other  modern,  —  the 
ruins  of  the  Colosseum,  and  St.  Peter's,  —  the 
sight  of  which  will  compensate  one  for  the 
trouble  and  expense  of  crossing  the  deep  seas. 
Like  the  pyramids  on  the  Nile,  they  are  un- 
matched, each  the  grandest  work  of  its  kind,  — 
the  Colosseum,  a  wonder  of  vastness ;  St.  Pe- 
ter's, a  marvel  of  harmonies.  The  buildings 
of  Rome  are  usually  tall,  huddled  together,  and 
ugly  in  their  general  appearance,  constructed  of 
brick  and  stone,  but  mostly  of  the  dull  yellow 
travertine.  The  houses  are  from  two  to  six 
stories  high.  Some  of  these  are  spacious  and 
elegant,  containing  private  galleries  of  the  finest 
paintings  and  sculptures,  having  spacious  vesti- 
bules and  court-yards  adorned  with  marbles, 
flowers,  and  spicy  trees. 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  ROME.      217 

The  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked.  The 
Corso  which  is  the  main  one,  is  barely  wide 
enough  for  two  carriages  to  pass  abreast.  The 
ground  story  of  the  buildings  frontiug  the 
streets,  is  usually  divided  up  into  little  rooms 
for  stores,  shops  and  nurseries.  It  is  no  un- 
common thing  for  the  man  of  business  to  have 
his  whole  family  close  about  him.  Such  a  store, 
or  room,  is  rather  a  stirring  place,  especially 
when  the  children  are  manipulating  their  heads. 

The  city  has  greatly  improved  since  it  became 
the  capital  of  Italy.  The  beggars,  priests,  and 
swaddled  babies,  are  not  so  numerous  on  the 
streets.  More  good  horses  and  carriages  are  to 
be  seen  than  formerly ;  still,  almost  everything 
except  the  fine  arts,  borders  on  the  old  style. 
The  distaff  is  yet  in  use,  and  weaving  is  exe- 
cuted on  small  wooden  looms,  some  of  which 
have  not  got  the  length  of  the  fly-shuttle.  It 
seems  hardly  possible  that  the  pretty  Roman 
scarfs  should  be  manufactured  on  such  rude 
machines.  Even  the  sculptures,  pictures, 
mosaics,  and  cameos,  are  all  produced  in  humble 
apartments  ;  so  the  works  of  taste  make  no  dis- 
play in  Rome. 

The  five  bridges  across  the  Tiber  present  no 
particular  attraction  outside  of  the  associations 
connected  with  them. 


218      AFTEE-THOUGHTS  OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

The  external  appearance  of  the  three  hun- 
dred and  seventy  charches  is  not  prepossessing. 
Many  of  them  are  unpleasantly  situated  and  ugly 
shaped  without,  but  within,  are  exquisitely  beau- 
tiful ;  yet  the  finest  of  these  are  of  little  account 
after  visiting  the  cJiwrch  of  Rome,  yes,  the 
church  of  the  world. 

The  eleven  Egyptian  columns  of  red  granite 
adorning  different  quarters  of  the  city,  add 
greatly  to  its  attractions ;  and  then  the  foun- 
tains, too,  of  elaborate  workmanship,  and  sup- 
plied with  an  abundance  of  pure  water,  are 
invitin«r  blessinsjs. 

St.  Peter's  stiinds  in  the  extreme  northwestern 
part  of  the  city,  placed  there,  it  is  said,  to  com- 
memorate the  supposed  burial  spot  of  the  apos- 
tle Peter.  Its  site  is  unfavorable,  being  too 
low  and  too  much  confined.  It  was  commenced 
in  the  sixteenth  century,  and  is  not  yet  com- 
pleted. It  has  cost  already  more  than  seventy 
millions  of  dollars.  Raphael  and  Michael  An- 
gelo,  the  two  greatest  artists,  were  its  principal 
architects.  Its  design  and  plan  are  mostly  due 
to  Angelo.  On  approaching  it  in  front,  one 
has  the  feeling  of  vastness.  The  portico  with 
its  numerous  pillars,  the  Egyptkn  pyramid,  the 
fountains  on  either  side,  the  massive  statues  of 
St.  Paul  and  St.  Peter,  and  the  grand  entrance, 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  R03IE.  219 

all  seem  to  excite  great  expectations.  Stepping 
within  the  vestibule,  lo,  how  magnificent  I  The 
marble  columns  and  bronze  doors  are  just  where 
and  what  they  should  be.  Passing  within  the 
church,  and  what  vastness,  beauty,  richness,  and 
harmony,  reach  the  eye  !  One  must  feel  here 
is  a  work  approaching  the  perfect,  the  divine  ! 
The  vast  marble  floors,  the  lofty  pilasters  of 
variegated  marbles,  the  colossal  statues,  the  su- 
perb mosaic  pictures  upon  wall  and  ceiling,  the 
high  altar  with  its  hundred  burning  lamps,  the 
crypt  below  it  with  the  most  beautiful  statue  of 
Pope  Clement  XVI.,  marking  the  place  where 
according  to  tradition,  repose  the  remains  of  St. 
Peter,  are  all  significant.  The  magnificent  pic- 
tures in  mosaic,  looking  precisely  like  oil  paint- 
ings, are  the  best  specimens  of  the  art  in  the 
world.  More  than  twenty  years  have  been  re- 
quired to  produce  some  of  them,  each  costing, 
perhaps,  more  than  twenty  thousand  dollars. 
The  sleeping  and  waking  lions  in  marble  by 
Canova,  are  true  to  life.  The  proportions  aijd 
harmonies  of  this  church  are  such  that  one  can 
scarcely  realize  its  majestic  size,  as  he  walks 
through  the  nave.  It  seems  hardly  possible  that 
it  is  more  than  six  hundred  feet  in  length,  and 
neiu'ly  tliree  hundred  feet  in  width,  and  two  him- 
dred  and  fifty  feet  high  under  the  rotunda.    It 


220   AFTER-THOUGHTS  OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

would  naturally  be  fancied  that  in  such  a  church, 
there  would  be  somethinof  of  the  <]^loom  and  dim 
religious  light  of  the  Gothic  cathecb-als  ;  but  in  St. 
Peter's,  there  is  nothing  of  the  kind ;  the  light 
comes  in  from  its  lofty  windows  just  right. 
Really,  it  is  the  brightest,  cleanest,  lightest,  and 
largest  church  in  the  world :  it  is  unfortunate 
there  should  be  one  work  of  art  in  it,  which  mars 
instead  of  adding  to  the  beauty  of  the  plaae. 
I  refer  to  the  statue  which  is  said  to  be  that  of 
St.  Peter,  but  which,  no  doubt,  was  of  pagan 
origin,  and  made  in  honor  of  Jupiter,  or  some 
other  polytheistic  deity.  The  Catholics  from 
the  pope  down  to  the  meanest  beggar,  as  they 
pass  it,  fail  not  to  kiss  its  great  toe. 

In  ascending  to  the  top  of  St.  Peter's,  one  is 
sure  to  learn  before  he  reaches  the  dome,  or 
climbs  into  the  bronze  ball  capable  of  holding 
sixteen  men,  which  appears  from  the  ground  not 
to  be  more  than  a  foot  in  diameter,  that  it  is  a 
lofty  and  massive  stiiicture.  From  its  sunmiit 
can  be  enjoyed  an  extended  prospect  of  the 
whole  city  and  the  surrounding  country. 

Joining  St.  Peter's  is  the  palace  of  Leo  XIII. , 
known  as  the  Vatican.  This  and  the  Museum 
at  the  Capitol  contain  the  chief  art-treasures  of 
Eome.  In  the  Vatican  there  is  a  wilderness  of 
ancient  statuary,  sculptures,  and  antiquities.     It 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  EOME.      221 

is  the  greatest  wonder  whence  they  all  came. 
Room  after  room,  and  corridor  after  corridor, 
are  crowded  with  marvellous  works  of  art. 
Here  is  the  Apollo  Belvidere  so  strkingly 
beautiful ;  and  here  tjAso  is  the  original  Laocoon 
so  expressive  of  the  wildest  consternation. 
Among  the  pictm*es,  the  most  celebrated  are 
"  The  Transfiguration  "  and  "  The  MaSonna  de 
Foligno,"  by  Raphael ;  "  The  Last  Communion 
of  St.  Jerome,"  by  Domenichino ;  the  frescos 
of  Raphael  in  the  Stanza,  portraying  Roman 
and  Grecian  history ;  and  "  The  Last  Judg- 
ment "  in  the  Sistine  Chapel  by  Michael  Angelo, 
which  occupies  the  whole  of  one  end  of  the 
chapel.  However  much  we  may  criticise  the 
ideal  of  the  picture,  after  studying  it  carefully, 
we  cannot  doubt  that  its  conception  and  execu- 
tion required  eight  long  years  of  the  closest  ap- 
plication on  the  part  of  its  most  gifted  author. 
It  would  require  volumes  to  describe  all  the  art- 
treasures  in  the  Vatican. 

In  the  Museum  at  the  Capitol  are  "  The  Dying 
Gladiator"  and  a  statue  of  Venus,  which  de- 
serve to  be  counted  among  the  great  master- 
pieces in  marble. 

The  success  of  the  fine  arts  in  Rome  to-day  is 
due  to  foreigners.  Hundreds  are  there  earnestly 
engaged  in  cutting  the  stone,  and  painting  the 


222      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

canvas.  Some  of  their  works  compare  favora- 
bly with  those  of  the  old  masters.  Several  of 
our  American  artists  rank  among  the  best. 
Though  they  work  in  a  distant  land,  yet  the  re- 
sult of  their  toil  returns  to  adorn  our  galleries, 
halls,  and  public  squares.  Though  they  are 
abroad,  still  they  are  true  to  our  country.  They 
are  so  conditioned,  they  can  appreciate  our  Re- 
public, and  with  delight  do  labor  to  perpetuate 
its  glory.  The  present  promises  that  in  the  fu- 
ture, America  shall  be  crowned  with  the  richest 
treasures  of  painting  and  statuary. 

The  government  of  Rome  was  that  of  a  pre- 
tended theocracy.  It  declared  itself  not  human 
but  divine,  ruled  by  God  in  the  person  of  Pio 
Nono.  He  feigned  to  have  dominion  over  the 
temporal  and  spiritual,  ruling  bodies  and  minds. 
He  admitted  no  one  into  his  administration,  un- 
less he  had  been  consecrated  a  priest.  No  one 
could  become  a  member  of  the  state,  unless  he 
had  first  become  a  member  of  the  church.  No 
one  could  truly  own  any  property  or  his  own 
life,  unless  he  was  in  Catholic  communion.  The 
pope  declared  himself  infallible,  and  his  author- 
ity divine. 

But  a  great  change  has  come  over  the  city 
and  the  papal  realms,  since  Rome  became  the 
capital  of  Italy,  and  the  king  took  up  his  abode 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  ROME.      223 

here.  Church  and  state  are  no  longer  ruled  by 
the  same  head.  The  government  is  quite  lib- 
eral, and  rapidly  tending  towards  republican- 
ism. Victor  Emanuel  was  a  fortunate  ruler  for 
Italy ;  and  his  son,  Humbert,  the  present  king 
and  his  queen  Margaret,  are  highly  esteemed, 
and,  no  doubt,  are  doing  their  very  best  for 
their  beloved  Italy.  They  have  caused  striking 
improvements  to  be  made  in  Rome.  It  is  a 
clean  city  now  compared  with  what  it  was  ten 
years  ago.  Filth  and  beggary  which  were 
formerly  so  common,  have  been  removed  to  a 
large  extent,  and  the  city  is  wearing  the  appear- 
ance of  thrift,  as  it  has  not  for  many  years  past. 
Were  the  country  not  so  em])arrassed  by  debt 
and  poverty,  it  is  evident,  the  king  would  do 
much  more  in  the  way  of  improvements  than  it 
is  possible  for  him  to  do  at  present. 

The  pope  and  his  cardinals  constitute  rather 
an  august-looking  body.  Leo  XIII.  would 
be  taken  to  be  a  very  sincere,  earnest,  and 
determined  man.  The  cardinals  usually  have 
marked  physical  capacity;  their  temperaments 
are  not  the  most  active,  still  they  would  be 
taken  to  be  men  of  the  keenest  perception, 
remarkably  adroit  in  planning,  and  wonderfully 
shrewd  in  executing. 

The  state  of  the  church  iu  Rome  is  flourish- 


224      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF    FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

ing,  if  we  estimate  it  by  the  number  of  priests 
and  holy  orders ;  for  according  to  the  last 
census  the  city  had  thii-ty-four  cardinals,  thu-ty- 
six  bishops,  fourteen  hundred  and  fifty-seven 
priests,  three  hundred  and  sixty-seven  semi- 
narists, twenty-five  hundred  and  sixty-seven 
monks,  twenty-one  hundred  and  thirty-one 
nuns,  six  hundred  and  sixty  male  theologians 
in  training,  nine  hundred  and  ninety-seven 
Christian  brethren,  and  others,  maldng  some 
ten  thousand  belonging  to  the  ecclesiastical 
orders.  This  must  be  acknowledged  a  strong 
priestly  force  for  a  city  of  two  hundred  thou- 
stmd  inhabitants.  It  is  plain  to  be  seen  that 
religion  in  Rome  costs  something.  The  holy 
orders  must  be  well  supported,  and  of  neces- 
sity, it  forces  heavy  taxation  upon  the  Catholic 
subjects.  They  are  learning  that  "  their  religion 
is  not  the  cheap  defence  of  their  nation."  If 
Leo  Xni.  can  say,  "I  am  the  Church,"  the 
Romans  are  virtually  saying,  we  can  no  longer 
support  you ;  and  so  they  are  absenting  them- 
selves largely  from  all  church  service.  Not  even 
at  St.  Peter's,  unless  it  be  on  some  extraordi- 
nary occasion,  ai*e  crowds  seen  joining  in  the 
worship  on  the  Sabbath,  or  the  week-day ;  and 
very  seldom  it  is,  that  any  Roman  gentlemen  are 
to  be  witnessed  among  the  worshippers.     They 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  ROME.  225 

have  been  so  grievously  burdened  in  the  past 
by  taxation  for  the  support  of  priestcraft,  they 
are  determined  no  longer  to  lend  any  influence 
in  that  direction.  If  the  pope  is  resolved  to 
build  new  churches  and  adorn  them  with  the 
most  costly  works  of  art  and  precious  stones, 
he  must  do  it  without  their  aid.  They  feel  the 
people  have  been  beggared  altogether  too  much 
for  the  sake  of  embellishing  temples  of  worship, 
and  supporting  multitudes  of  priests ;  and  so 
they  are  looking  upon  Catholicism  with  indifler- 
ence,  and  Protestantism,  as  a  myth.  Religion 
in  Rome  apparently  has  lost  its  former  spirit, 
and  its  present  devotees  are  clinging  mostly  to 
the  letter.  They  reverence  pictures  and  statues 
of  saints ;  they  agonize  over  the  dead  Christ ; 
they  adore  the  visible  Virgin :  they  h*mg  the 
picture  of  Mary  on  the  infant's  neck  and  attach 
it  to  the  lottery  ticket.  This  seems  to  be  wor- 
ship in  Rome,  if  one  kisses  a  church  door,  or  a 
priest's  hand,  or  crosses  himself  before  a  cruci- 
fix, or  wears  a  rosary,  or  manipulates  his  beads. 
Its  religion  appears  to  savor  more  of  the  lips 
than  of  the  heart,  more  of  the  flesh  than  of  the 
spirit,  more  of  earth  than  of  heaven.  Its  whole 
structure  and  methods  converge  to  this  one  end, 
to  give  the  clergy  absolute  power  over  the  peo- 
ple ;  but  the  Romans  are  no  longer  disposed  to 


226      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

submit  to  the  entire  control  of  pope,  bishops, 
and  priests.  They  fully  realize  under  such 
reign,  the  country  has  not  advanced,  and  the 
Italians  kept  pace  with  the  best  civilizations. 
Their  commerce  and  culture  have  waned  during 
the  recent  centuries,  and  they  are  fully  per- 
suaded that  if  they  are  not  relieved  from  the 
shackles  of  priesthood,  there  is  no  hope  for 
their  beloved  Italy.  So  they  rejoice  that  the 
temporal  power  of  the  pope  was  supplanted  by 
the  rule  of  Victor  Emanuel,  and  is  still  held  in 
subjection  by  the  reign  of  King  Humbert. 
They  no  longer  bend  the  knee  when  they  come 
into  the  presence  of  the  pope ;  they  no  longer 
go  to  the  confessional  box ;  they  believe  in 
liberty  of  conscience  and  freedom  of  action. 
So  the  religious  status  of  Rome  is  very  unlike 
what  it  was  in  the  palmy  days  of  Pio  Nono. 
Though  Leo  XIII.  has  anathematized  Protes- 
tantism in  the  city  of  Rome,  nevertheless,  it 
promises  more  there  than  ever  before.  The 
earth  moves  and  so  does  the  "Eternal  City." 
It  would  seem  that  Cavour's  entreaty  with 
reference  to  his  cherished  Italy  would  be  ful- 
filled at  no  distant  day,  saying,  "  Give  us  a  free 
church  in  a  free  state." 

The  cause  of  education  in  Rome  has  not  re- 
ceived that  attention  it  should,  and  this  is  made 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  ROME.      227 

evident  from  the  scrivini  who  may  be  seen  in 
different  parts  of  the  city,  sitting  behind  little 
tables  with  pen  and  paper,  ready  to  do  the  bid- 
ding of  lover,  mourner,  or  thief,  in  the  way  of 
writing  letters.  It  is  necessary,  there  should  be 
such  helps,  for  not  more  than  half  of  the  popu- 
lation can  read  or  write.  Though  there  is  such 
ignorance  in  the  city,  the  church  boasts  of  its 
numerous  colleges,  pronouncing  them  the  best 
in  the  world.  If  this  were  not  true,  it  asks, 
"  why  should  students  come  from  all  the  civilized 
countries  to  enter  them?  "  It  is  a  fact,  they  do 
have  patronage  from  America,  Scotland,  Eng- 
land, France,  Germany,  and  other  foreign  lands, 
but  their  numbers  are  not  large.  The  course  of 
studies  and  system  of  instruction  in  these  insti- 
tutions, are  very  loose.  They  have  gained  no 
fame  for  thorough  scholarship.  During  the  last 
century  no  standard  works  on  medicine,  law,  or 
theology,  have  been  produced  by  their  profes- 
sors. Had  the  schools  depended  upon  Rome 
for  text-books,  there  could  have  been  no  com- 
plaint of  too  great  a  multiplicity.  Were  it  not 
for  the  name,  but  few  students  would  be  likely 
to  seek  an  education  in  Rome.  The  special  ob- 
ject of  the  church  has  been  in  its  educational 
processes,  to  teach  the  common  people  they 
know  nothing,  but  the  priests,  everything.     It 


228       AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

has  allowed  none  but  priests,  or  men  in  holy  or- 
ders, to  give  any  instruction.  Its  end  of  edu- 
cation has  been  to  make  all  accept  the  in- 
fallibility of  the  pope,  the  holiness  of  the 
Virgin,  and  the  divinity  of  the  priesthood. 
But  since  the  temporal  power  was  taken  from 
the  pope,  the  public  schools  of  Rome  have 
changed  decidedly  for  the  better.  The  present 
king  and  queen  are  doing  all  in  their  power  for 
them.  The  great  obstacle  in  the  way  of  gen- 
eral education  in  this  city,  as  well  as  in  other 
parts  of  Italy,  is  poverty.  A  large  proportion 
of  the  peasantry  are  unable  to  do  anything  for 
the  education  of  their  children.  Still  the  num- 
ber of  pupils  in  the  schools  has  more  than 
doubled  within  a  few  years  past,  and  the  pres- 
ent outlook  for  universal  education  in  Rome  is 
hopeful. 

Surely  Italy  moves.  In  1848  she  struck  a 
blow  for  liberty  and  free  schools,  and  Tuscany 
and  Sardinia  took  a  forward  step.  In  1859 
another  blow  was  struck,  and  chains  of  tyranny 
dropped  from  Lombardy,  and  shouts  of  loyal 
hearts  rung  out,  "Viva  Garibaldi."  In  1860 
another  blow  was  struck  and  the  bands  of 
Sicily  and  Naples  were  broken,  and  the  shout 
was  renewed  by  millions  more,  "Viva  Gari- 
baldi ! "    In  1867  another  blow  was  sti-uck  and 


3IODERN   AND  ANCIENT   ROME.  229 

the  keystone  to  the  arches  of  tyranny  was 
loosened.  In  1871  the  Papal  states  were  ab- 
sorbed by  the  Italian  states,  and  Italy's  greatest 
hero  is  resolved  not  to  rest  till  Italy  is  blest 
with  a  "free  constitution,  a  free  conscience,  and 
free  schools." 

But  from  the  modern  we  turn  to  the  ancient 
city.  Whence  the  old  Komans  originated,  it 
can  be  but  vaguely  conjectured ;  however,  it 
would  seem,  at  the  time  they  settled  the  old 
city,  they  were  a  rude  colony  of  peasants  dwell- 
ing on  the  banks  of  the  Tiber.  Civilization  was 
a  stranger  to  them ;  hardships  pressed  heavily, 
and  with  the  greatest  difficulty  they  eked  out  a 
living.  But  somehow  self-determination  and 
undaunted  courage  pushed  them  on.  Even  when 
rent  by  internal  feuds,  and  badly  cut  in  pieces 
by  Gauls  and  Carthaginians,  they  were  not  dis- 
heartened but  all  the  more  resolved  upon  be- 
coming a  strong  and  famous  people.  At  no 
very  distant  day  they  were  equal  to  great  emer- 
gencies ;  they  conquered  Hannibal,  Pyrrhus, 
and  Antiochus,  aud  overthrew  Carthage,  Epirus, 
and  Greece.  They  extended  from  their  great 
city  in  all  directions  the  grandest  roads.  They 
strengthened  themselves  with  vast  armies,  and 
marched  forth  conquering  and  to  conquer,  sur- 
rounding nations,  not  resting  till  Rome  was 


230      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

mistress  of  the  world.  At  the  advent  of  Chris- 
tianity, her  sceptre  ruled  from  the  Clyde  of 
Scotland  to  the  Tropic  of  Cancer,  a  distance  of 
two  thousand  miles,  and  from  the  Atlantic  to 
the  Euphrates,  a  distance  of  three  thousand 
miles.  She  sat  on  her  seven  hills  in  queenly 
pomp,  calling  in  treasures  from  her  distant 
lands  to  adorn  villas,  temples,  and  amphitheatres. 
Her  roads,  bridges,  arches.  Forum,  and  columns, 
were  the  grandest  of  their  kind  ever  built. 
Her  civilization  was  being  borne  to  the  most 
disttmt  lands  ;  her  legions  were  guarding  every 
city,  and  all  the  frontiers  throughout  her  vast 
realm.  Rome  could  then  boast  of  the  greatest 
statesmen,  greatest  orators,  greatest  poets,  and 
greatest  generals.  To  be  a  Roman  then  was 
surely  an  honor. 

But  Rome  that  had  endured  adversity  so 
triumphantly,  was  not  to  endure  long  the  full 
blaze  of  prosperity.  No  sooner  had  she  placed 
her  foot  upon  the  neek  of  Greece  than  she  began 
to  falter  and  wane.  As  she  took  to  herself  the 
luxuries  and  sensual  pleasures  of  Athens  and 
other  foreign  cities,  internal  corruptions  began 
to  pollute  and  destroy.  Losing  self-control, 
cruel  tyrants  wrenched  away  her  sceptre,  and 
forced  upon  her  citizens  the  grossest  sensualities 
and  the  fiercest  cruelties ;    soon,  half  of  the 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  ROME.     231 

populace  became  slaves,  and  another  large  por- 
tion were  adventurers  of  every  tongue  and 
nationality.  Those  who  had  been  brave  con- 
querors had  degenerated  into  mere  bullies ; 
they  rushed  to  the  arena  and  the  masses  rushed 
after  them,  glorying  in  savagery  and  blood. 
Gladiators  became  the  heroes ;  the  emperors 
became  the  greatest  monsters  ;  their  names  be- 
ginning with  Augustus  and  ending  with  Otho, 
savor  of  blood.  No  wonder  that  the  "Eternal 
City"  under  the  reign  of  Tiberius,  Caligula, 
Claudius,  and  Nero,  should  be  laid  in  the  dust 
and  become  sublime  only  in  its  ruins. 

To-day  the  grandest  of  her  antiquities  is  the 
Colosseum.  This  was  the  central  figure  of  old 
Eome.  It  was  commenced  by  Vespasian,  con- 
tinued by  Titus,  and  finished  by  Domitian.  It 
occupies  more  than  six  acres  of  ground,  being 
elliptical  in  shape,  and  five  stories  in  height. 
When  completed  its  exterior  was  grand  and 
beautiful,  embodying  several  diflferent  orders  of 
architecture.  Around  and  above  its  arena  it 
had  a  seating  capacity  for  eighty  thousand  spec- 
tators. From  the  top  of  its  wall  one  can 
have  a  most  imposing  view  of  its  stupendous 
grandeur.  Its  vaultings  and  sittings  have  been 
badly  mutilated  by  the  ravages  of  time  and  the 
liand  of  the  despoiler.     Here  and  there  vines 


232      AFTER-THOUGHTS  OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

of  ivy  are  hugging  the  walls,  and  crevices  are 
thickly  scattered  ever  with  shells  of  snails. 
From  the  nooks  and  cmnnies  now  and  then, 
hooting  owls  swoop  forth,  sounding  their  re- 
quiems of  wasting  greatness.  As  we  view 
these  majestic  ruins,  we  can  but  recall  the  time 
when  it  used  to  be  crowded  with  the  sexes  of 
all  ages  and  conditions,  gloating  upon  the  most 
horrid  scenes.  Men  and  women  were  delighted 
to  hear  these  walls  echo  with  the  cry  of  "  Chris- 
tianos  ad  leones  " :  and  then  to  witness  ravenous 
lions  pounce  from  their  dungeons  into  the  arena, 
tearing  in  pieces  and  devouring  Christian  mar- 
tyrs. Can  it  be  that  Titus  after  having  loved 
Bernice  as  Antony  loved  Cleopatra,  after  hav- 
ing sacrificed  bullocks  to  the  god  Apis  under 
the  shadow  of  the  pyramids,  and  after  having 
been  pronounced  divine  and  worshipped  as  a 
deity  in  most  of  the  Syrian  cities,  tore  up  the 
gardens  where  Nero  delighted  to  walk,  clad  in 
purple,  and  shod  with  azure  buskins,  with  fillets 
of  laurel  on  his  temples  and  a  harp  in  his  hand, 
and  melodious  accents  flowing  from  his  tongue, 
and  wildest  passions  germinating  in  his  heart, 
drained  from  its  centre,  and  raised  this  greatest 
amphitheatre  of  the  world  for  the  sole  object 
of  shedding  blood  ?  He  dug  up  treasures  from 
classic  fields  and  brought  the  costliest  spoils 


MODERN   AND   ANCIENT   ROME.  233 

from  Oriental  cities  to  adorn  the  mighty  work 
which  had  been  built  in  three- years,  a  work  con- 
cerning which,  as  one  looks  upon  it  for  the  first 
time,  he  can  scarcely  refrain  from  asking,  is  it 
possible  that  this  is  a  production  of  man?  This, 
is  the  work  which  required  a  hundred  days  for 
its  dedication,  and  the  blood  of  nine  thousand 
animals  to  consecrate  it.  But  did  this  satisfy 
the  ambitious  Titus?  Nay,  verily,  his  past  was 
filled  with  remorse,  and  his  future  was  terrific, 
and  finally,  as  he  was  one  day  walking  upon 
the  poisonous  Roman  Campagna,  searching  for 
rest,  he  fell  dead,  showing,  if  a  Caesar  builds 
the  hugest  structures  of  stone,  adorning  them 
with  Doric, Tonic,  and  Corinthian  graces,  failing 
to  cultivate  the  graces  of  his  own  heart,  his 
monuments  left  behind,  however  grand  and 
beautiful,  serve  only  to  magnify  the  wastes  and 
ruins  of  his  own  character. 

North  and  west  from  the  Colosseum,  not  far 
ofi"  are  the  greatest  of  all  the  Eoman  triumphal 
arches,  that  of  Constantine  with  its  inscriptions 
wonderfully  preserved,  and  that  of  Titus  with 
its  lettering  and  symbols  commemorating  the 
siege  and  capture  of  Jerusalem.  Under  this 
arch  passes  the  Via  Sacra  paved  with  its  polyg- 
onal slate  stones,  and  wherever  exposed,  look- 
ing as  though  it  were   a  work   of  yesterday, 


234      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

instead  of  having  been  built  more  than  two 
thousand  years.  A  little  way  on,  are  the  re- 
mains of  the  temple  of  Venus  and  the  Basilica 
of  Constantine.  These  evidently  were  once 
elegant  structures.  Not  far  from  these  is  a 
cluster  of  antiquities  imposing  and  grand  in 
their  ruins.  Here  was  once  the  Roman  Forum, 
an  irregular  oblong  space,  about  a  third  of  a 
mile  in  length,  and  half  of  that  distance  in 
width.  What  associations  crowd  upon  the  mind 
as  the  eye  rests  upon  this  renowned  spot  I  Once 
it  was  the  centre  and  heart  of  the  greatest  city 
of  the  world  !  But  now  how  changed  and  deso- 
late I  Now  it  is  occupied  only  by  relics  and  a 
few  locust-trees.  Clustering  around  it  are  the 
walls  of  the  Basilica  of  Julia,  the  three  beauti- 
ful pillars  belonging  to  the  temple  of  Minerva, 
the  frontal  portico  of  the  temple  of  Antoninus 
and  Faustina,  the  column  of  Phocas,  the  arch 
of  Septimius  Severus,  the  three  pillars  of  the 
temple  of  Vespasian,  inscribed  in  large  letters 
with  ESTITVER,  the  eight  columns  bearing 
testimony  of  a  temple  to  Saturn,  the  remains  of 
the  temple  of  Concord  commemorating  the  truce 
between  the  plebeians  and  the  patricians,  and 
the  rostra  of  the  Forum  from  which  the  Roman 
orators  used  to  address  the  people.  Here  An- 
tony pronounced  his  oration  over  the  dead  body 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  ROME.  235 

of  Caesar.  Here  Cicero  delivered  his  orations 
against  Catiline.  Somewhere  close  by  was  en- 
acted the  terrible  tragedy  of  Virginia  who  was 
put  to  death  by  her  father  to  save  her  from  the 
vile  hands  of  Appius  Claudius.  In  the  Forum 
it  was  that  Manlius  stood,  after  he  had  repelled 
the  Gauls  from  the  arena  of  the  Capitol  and 
saved  the  city  when  all  seemed  lost,  wrongfully 
accused  and  about  to  be  unjustly  condemned. 
As  the  judge  rose  to  pronounce  the  sentence  of 
death,  Manlius  sprang  to  his  feet,  weeping  and 
pointing  to  the  place  where  duty  was  done  ;  the 
people  burst  into  tears,  and  the  judge  was 
silenced.  At  length  the  trial  again  proceeded, 
but  was  once  more  defeated  as  the  noble  man 
pointed  to  the  place  where  duty  was  done ;  nor 
could  he  be  convicted  till  they  removed  him  out 
of  sight  of  the  Capitol. 

A  short  distance  to  the  northeast  of  tho 
Forum  is  the  arch  of  Septimius  Severus  under 
which  passed  the  Clivus  Capitolinus  Way.  To 
the  rear  of  this  arch  are  the  remains  of  the  tem- 
ple of  Concord  erected  to  commemorate  the  ter- 
mination of  the  contest  between  the  patricians 
and  plebeians.  A  little  to  the  south  of  this 
temple  is  the  Mamertine  Prison  built  by  Ancus 
Martins.  It  is  a  horrible  place.  It  consists  of 
deep  underground  dungeons  walled  up  with  vast 


236      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

blocks  of  travertine  stone.  Formerly,  there 
were  no  steps  leading  to  these  depths ;  the 
criminals  were  dropped  into  them  through  holes 
in  the  roofs.  In  the  lowest  of  these  dismal 
places  Jugurtha  was  starved  to  death ;  the  ac- 
complices of  Catiline  in  his  great  conspiracy 
were  confined  and  afterwards  put  to  death. 
Even  now,  though  not  so  terrible  as  formerly, 
it  makes  one*s  blood  run  cold  to  penetrate  its 
dark  recesses.  Still  fiirther  on  in  this  direction 
from  the  Forum,  we  find  a  mass  of  broken  col- 
ums  of  gi'unite.  These  are  of  immense  size 
and  finely  cut ;  they  bear  record  of  the  Forum 
and  Basilica  of  Trajan.  Here  stands  his  famous 
column  with  its  innumerable  spiral  carvings, 
commemorating  his  battles  and  victories.  There 
is  a  majesty  about  these  Roman  works  which  is 
nowhere  else  to  be  found ;  they  seem  to  assimi- 
late Grecian  harmony  and  Asiatic  magnitude ; 
if  they  lack  the  beauty  of  the  Corinthian  which 
took  for  its  model  the  lovely  form  of  a  woman, 
this  column  does  possess  the  colossal  grandeur 
of  a  Titan. 

A  short  distance  to  the  west  is  the  Pantheon, 
the  best  preserved  relic  of  ancient  Rome.  It  is 
a  circular  building,  made  of  brick  with  a  beau- 
tiful portico  and  dome  ;  its  front  has  often  been 
pronounced  by  the  best  judges  faultless.     As 


MODERN  AND   ANCIENT  ROME.     237 

Eome  took  from  Greece  her  religion,  so  she 
closely  copied  after  her  style  of  temples.  The 
Pantheon  is  lighted  entirely  through  the  dome. 
In  the  seventh  century  it  was  converted  into  a 
Christian  church,  and  in  the  sixteenth  century, 
the  remains  of  Raphael,  the  king  of  painters, 
were  buried  in  it ;  so  henceforth  it  is  a  conse- 
crated shrine.  The  physical  is  beautiful,  but 
the  spiritual  is  glorious. 

Not  far  to  the  south  and  just  above  the  Forum 
is  the  Capitoline  hill.  On  this  hill  once  stood 
the  ancient  Roman  Capitol  and  the  temple  of 
Jupiter  Capitoline.  Here  the  wise  Roman 
senators  used  to  meet  and  legislate.  On  its 
southwest  side  is  the  Tarpeian  rock  whence 
hosts  of  the  innocent  and  the  guilty  were 
hurled  to  destruction  in  the  stern,  cruel  times 
of  the  Roman  Republic. 

Below  this  hill  to  the  west  runs  the  Cloaca 
Maxima,  the  great  sewer  of  old  Rome,  and  the 
oldest  known  work  of  the  kind  in  the  world, 
dating  from  the  time  of  Tarquinius  Priscus. 
Strabo  said,  "  It  was  so  immense  that  the  largest 
load  of  hay  might  be  driven  through  it  without 
any  difficulty."  Near  by  the  Cloaca  stands  the 
edifice  of  Janus  Quadrifrons  with  its  four  fronts 
of  arches,  but  its  two-faced  deity  which  once 
crowned  the  work,  has  disappeared.     Just  be- 


238      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGX  TRAVEL. 

low  this  monument  towards  the  Tiber  is  the 
celebrated  temple  of  Vesta.  As  we  look  at  its 
columns  and  study  its  proportions,  we  cannot 
wonder  that  Horace  and  other  classic  scholars 
should  extol  its  beauty  and  fairness.  But  a  few 
feet  behind  this  work  flows  the  yellow  Tiber. 
Certainly  it  is  not  so  imposing  a  body  of  water 
as  its  history  would  imply.  Here  it  was,  ac- 
cording to  the  legend,  that  Horatius  Codes 
singly  withstood  the  Etruscan  army  under 
King  Porsena,  until  the  Romans  broke  down 
the  bridge  from  behind,  and  then  he  threw 
himself  into  the  river  and  escaped.  Here  it 
was,  too,  that  Cloelia,  a  Roman  virgin,  who  was 
sent  with  others,  as  a  hostage,  sprang  into  the 
Tiber  and  swam  safely  to  Rome. 

A  little  to  the  south  rising  above  the  river,  is 
the  Aventine,  the  highest  and  the  most  noted 
of  the  seven  hills.  It  was  here,  as  the  sweet 
singer  of  Mantua  informs  us,  that  King  Latinus 
held  his  court  with  ^neas  and  his  companions 
after  the  capture  of  Troy.  It  was  here,  also, 
that  Remus  stood,  while  his  brother  Romulus 
was  stationed  on  the  Palatine  to  consult  the 
soothsayers  who  were  to  decide  which  of  the 
two  should  be  the  founder  of  the  future  city. 
About  this  hill  are  to  be  seen  the  remains  of 
the  famous  wall  of  Servius  Tullius.     Once  it 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  ROME.     239 

was  graced  with  beautiful  temples  consecrated 
to  Juno  and  Diana,  but  now  its  summit  is 
crowned  with  modern  churches  and  convents. 

Between  the  Aventine  and  the  Colosseum 
rests  in  ashes  the  Palatine.  Its  sides  are 
steeper  and  more  abrupt  than  the  other  hills. 
Its  limits  can  be  measured  by  a  twenty  minutes 
walk,  still  it  contains  huge  masses  of  deso- 
late ruins.  This  was  the  most  populous  part 
of  ancient  Rome.  Upon  it  once  stood  the 
stately  edifices  of  Catiline,  Hortensius,  Cicero, 
and  Augustus.  Here  were  the  gorgeous  pal- 
aces of  bloody  Tiberius  and  Caligula.  This 
was  the  hill  that  glistened  with  the  golden 
palace  of  Nero,  whose  splendor  and  magnifi- 
cence caused  it  to  be  reckoned  as  one  of  the 
wonders  of  the  world.  But  how  fallen  is 
Palatine  now !  Its  beauty  and  grandeur  have 
crumbled  away,  leaving  it  alone  for  history  to 
tell  of  its  former  splendors. 

To  the  south  of  the  Palatine  is  the  Ccelian. 
This  has  only  a  slight  elevation,  but  quite  an 
extensive  area  with  its  sides  covered  with 
shade  trees.  At  the  time  of  the  foundation 
of  the  old  city  it  was  called  Querqueta,  or  the 
city  of  oaks.  It  derived  its  present  name  from 
an  Etruscan  chieftain  who  controlled  it  in  its 
pristine  days.     TuUus  Hostilius  had  his  royal 


240      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

residence  upon  it;  the  temples  of  Faunas, 
Bacchus,  and  Claudius,  once  adorned  it;  and 
now  its  southeasterly  extremity  is  occupied  by 
the  Lateran  Church  and  palace.  This  church 
derives  its  name  from  the  Roman  senator, 
Plautius  Lateranus  who  was  put  to  death  by 
Nero.  It  is  an  imposing  structure  crowned 
with  statues  of  the  apostles  and  the  Saviour. 
In  this  church  the  coronation  of  the  popes 
has  taken  place  for  more  than  fifteen  hundred 
years. 

To  the  north  of  the  Coelian  is  the  Esquiline, 
the  largest  of  the  seven  hills.  Its  principal 
ruins  are  the  baths  of  Titus,  whose  frescos  on 
their  walls  are  very  perfect,  being  regarded  the 
best  specimens  of  painting  found  among  the 
ruins  of  ancient  Rome.  A  street  leads  from 
this  hill  to  the  Forum,  which  is  reported  to  be 
the  one  over  which  Tullia  rode,  when  she  drove 
over  the  dead  body  of  her  father,  Servius  Tul- 
lius.  It  is  now  occupied  by  some  of  the  finest 
buildings  of  modern  Rome,  and  perhaps  the 
chiefest  among  them  is  the  church  of  St.  Maria 
Maggiore;  this  ranks  second  only  to  St. 
Peter's. 

To  the  north  of  the  Esquiline  is  the  Yiminal. 
It  can  scarcely  be  called  a  hill,  its  elevation  is 
so  slifi^ht.     Amons:  its  ruins  are  the  baths  of 


MODERN   AND   ANCIENT   ROME.  241 

Diocletian.  Its  surface  principally  is  occupied 
by  recently  constructed  buildings. 

To  the  westward  of  the  Viminal  is  the  Quiri- 
nal,  the  last  of  the  seven  hills.  The  Sabines 
held  it  at  the  time  Romulus  dwelt  upon  the 
Palatine ;  they  made  it  hostile  to  Rome  and  a 
rival  with  it,  till  Tatius  effected  a  union  between 
the  two  divisions,  and  ever  after  it  was  inclosed 
as  one  of  the  Eternal  Hills. 

The  more  these  hills  are  examined,  the  more 
wonderful  they  become.  Their  history  cannot 
be  half  told ;  still  so  long  as  stone  and  ashes 
shall  last,  they  will  be  clothed  with  immortal 
memories  ! 

To  the  north  of  the  Quirinal  is  the  Pincian 
hill,  which  is  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the 
modern  city,  being  laid  out  as  a  public  prom- 
enade, and  tastefully  ornamented  with  flowers 
and  trees.  Here  were  once  the  gardens  of 
Pompey,  and  the  palace  of  fabulous  cost,  be- 
longing to  Lucullus,  the  epicure,  who  squan- 
dered so  many  fortunes  at  banqueting. 

Under  the  shadow  of  this  hill  to  the  west 
stood  the  Flaminian  Gate.  A  little  to  the  south 
of  this  spot  is  the  church  of  St.  Maria  del  Po- 
polo  which  is  believed  to  mark  the  place  where 
cruel  Nero  was  buried.  Not  far  to  the  west  is 
the    mausoleum    of    Augustus,   formerly    the 


242      ATTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

grandest  monument  of  the  Campus  Martius.  In 
it  are  the  ashes  of  Augustus,  Li  via,  and  Mar- 
cellus.  Virgil  refers  in  tenderest  lines  to  the 
burial  of  the  young  Marcellus  in  this  tomb.  In 
it,  too,  rest  the  remains  of  bloody  Tiberius  and 
Caligula.  Across  the  Tiber  on  the  bank,  stands 
another  prominent  and  massive  structure,  kuQwn 
as  the  Castle  of  St.  Angelo,  which  was  built  for 
the  tomb  of  Hadrian.  Not  far  to  the  south 
rising  somewhat  abruptly  from  the  Tiber  and 
opposite  the  Capitol ine,  is  the  Janiculum,  a  hill 
whose  history  is  intimately  connected  with  that 
of  ancient  Rome.  It  is  the  highest  ground 
within  the  walls  of  the  city.  It  commands  an 
extensive  view  of  Rome  and  the  whole  region 
around.  Prominent  among  the  many  buildings 
upon  it,  is  the  church  of  St.  Pietro,  marking 
the  spot  where  tradition  says  the  Apostle  Peter 
was  crucified.  Another  church  of  particular 
interest  here  is  that  of  St.  Onofrio,  in  which 
lies  buried  the  poet  Tasso.  Joining  it  is  his 
studio  in  which  he  sat  when  he  composed  the 
poem  entitled  "  Jerusalem."  Here  are  preserved 
his  bust,  portrait,  chairs,  tables,  crucifix,  auto- 
graph, and  library.  Near  the  church  is  Tasso's 
garden  with  its  famous  oak  under  whose  shade 
the  poet  was  wont  to  sit  and  gaze  with  delight 
upon  the  marvellous  city.     His  name  promises 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  ROME.      243 

to  be  fadeless  when  the  present  city  shall  sleep 
in  ashes.  The  mortal  falls  to  the  earth  that  the 
immortal  may  live  forever. 

A  mile  out  on  the  Appian  Way  towards  the 
south  j  are  the  baths  of  Caracalla  ;  these  constitute 
a  vast  pile  of  ruins.  Tliey  were  built  on  a  scale 
of  grandeur  and  elegance.  They  are  eight  fur- 
longs in  circumference,  and  were  sufficient  to 
accommodate  two  thousand  bathers  at  the  same 
time.  In  addition  to  the  bathing-rooms  there 
were  others  devoted  to  games,  amusements,  and 
instruction.  Here  philosophers  taught,  and 
poets  sung.  Here  were  lounges  for  the  idle, 
and  libraries  for  the  learned.  Nooks  and  cor- 
ners were  filled  with  the  finest  works  of  art,  and 
walks  were  adorned  with  trees  and  fountains. 

Not  far  beyond  these  baths  on  the  same  way 
are  the  tombs  of  the  Scipios.  Though  their 
burial  place  is  wasted,  still  their  lives  keep 
fresh  the  history  of  their  valor  and  virtues, 
their  prudence  and  generosity. 

Farther  on  and  without  the  walls  are  numer- 
ous objects  of  antiquity.  Conspicuous  among 
them  are  the  sepulchre  of  Geta  and  the  tomb  of 
Ceecilia  Metella,  and  in  the  distance  stretching 
across  the  Campagna  are  arches  of  the  old  aque- 
duct built  by  Claudius  to  bring  water  from  the 
Alban  Lake  to  Rome. 


244      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOEEIGN  TRAVEL. 

But  the  most  interesting  objects  near  this 
road,  only  a  few  miles  from  the  city,  are  the 
catacombs  of  St.  Calixtiis  and  St.  Sebastian. 
These  are  evidently  memorials  of  Christianity 
in  its  struggles  against  paganism.  They  con- 
sist of  deep  excavations  and  winding,  under- 
ground passages.  Their  full  history  cannot  be 
deciphered.  It  is  thought  by  some  they  were 
ancient  quarries  whence  the  tufa  stone  was  dug 
for  buildings.  Afterwards  according  to  Hor- 
ace, they  were  used  as  sepulchres  for  burying 
the  poor,  especially  the  plebeians.  Still  later, 
it  is  said,  they  became  haunts  for  brigands.  At 
length,  under  the  reigns  of  Nero,  Domitian, 
Trajan,  Severus,  and  Diocletian,  the  Christians 
of  Rome  through  persecution  were  driven  to 
take  refuge  in  these  desolate  crypts  in  order 
to  enjoy  their  religious  rites.  Here  they  tar-- 
ried  for  years  while  the  storms  of  persecution 
raffed  against  them.  Within  these  recesses  on 
walls  and  ceilings  did  they  paint  the  Good 
Shepherd  whose  staff  always  supports  thr:  ugh 
the  dark  valley,  and  the  dove  which  brought  the 
glad  token  of  the  termination  of  the  Deluge. 
Here  they  intoned  hymns,  not  to  a  Roman  prae- 
tor, but  to  the  humble  Nazarene  who  was  so 
ignominiously  put  to  death.  No  wonder  when 
Buch  died,   the   tenderest  epitaphs    should    be 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  ROME.      245 

written  on  their  tombs,  as,  "  Arethusa  sleeps  in 
God."  "Lavinia,  sweeter  than  honey,  rests  in 
peace."  "Vitellianus  rests  in  the  Lord  Jesus." 
It  is  not  strange  that  the  old  man,  the  youth, 
the  tender  maiden,  with  such  a  faith,  as  they 
were  dragged  hence  to  the  arena,  trembled  not 
before  the  howl  of  the  Asiatic  tiger,  or  the  roar 
of  the  African  lion.  While  the  ravenous  beasts 
were  lacerating  their  palpitating  bodies,  and 
Roman  hosts  were  giving  thanks  to  Caesar, 
believing  that  a  superstition  was  being  destroyed 
and  a  heresy  was  being  devoured,  it  was  not 
dreamed  that  their  blood  was  nourishing  a  life 
which  would  dethrone  kings  and  overcome  bar- 
barities. What  if  Tacitus  ridiculed  the  disci- 
ples of  the  Nazarene  carpenter  I  What  if 
Apuleius  stigmatized  apostles  in  his  apologues 
and  fables  !  What  if  Lucian  scorned  the  senti- 
ments which  dropped  from  the  lips  of  the  "  Be- 
loved Son  "  I  No  longer  are  the  muses  invoked 
that  breathed  music  into  the  souls  of  Horace 
and  Virgil,  or  the  gods  appealed  to,  who  put 
courage  into  the  heart  of  Scipio  around  the 
walls  of  Carthage,  or  glorying  into  the  soul  of 
Marius  as  Jugurtha  was  dragged  in  chains  be- 
fore him !  Those  old  divinities  are  dead  and 
the  Rome  of  the  Caesars  has  fallen  upon  their 
lifeless  bodies  I 


246      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

The  Forum  now  is  a  pasture  where  goats 
feed ;  the  Colosseum  stands  a  petrified  sentinel, 
keeping  majestic  silence ;  the  Via  Sacra  is 
sunken  into  an  oblivious  grave.  The  pagan  has 
given  way  to  the  Christian.  Mortal  tents  have 
become  pitched  on  higher  ground  than  was 
anticipated.  A  resurrection  has  come  out  of 
the  catacombs  more  beautiful  than  the  fairest 
Madonna,  more  attractive  than  the  completest 
Pantheon,  and  more  majestic  than  the  grandest 
cathedral.  So  it  is,  the  All-Wise  leads  from 
lower  to  higher  orders ;  from  polytheism  to 
monotheism ;  from  the  Law  to  the  Gospel. 

On  parting  with  the  catacombs  so  fraught 
with  significance  and  sublimity,  the  touching 
experience  of  the  young  student  forces  itself 
upon  the  mind.  Prompted  by  an  insatiable 
desire  to  seek  and  know,  he  entered  these 
dubious,  winding  passages,  led  by  a  guide  for 
the  purpose  of  copying  an  inscription  on  a  cer- 
tain stone,  hoping  that  he  might  be  able  by  care- 
ful and  diligent  study  to  reveal  its  hidden 
mysteries.  The  desired  stone  was  found  and 
long  the  student  labored  to  transcribe  the  exact 
lineaments.  The  work  was  so  lingering,  the 
guide  wearied  and  felt  he  could  tarry  no  longer ; 
so  he  left  the  student  alone  and  intent  upon  his 
work.     Absorbed  in  his  mission  he  thought  not 


MODERN  AKD   ANCIENT  ROME.      247 

of  being  alone.  At  length,  accidentally  his  taper 
dropped  into  the  dust,  and  lo  !  he  was  enveloped 
in  the  profoundest  darkness  with  no  means  of 
renewing  his  light.  Immediately  he  began  to 
feel  his  way  through  the  zigzag  passages,  hoping 
he  should  ere  long  come  into  the  light  of  day. 
But  his  labors  seemed  to  be  in  vain.  Finally, 
almost  overcome  with  weariness  and  despon- 
dency, he  fell  prostrate,  it  would  appear,  to 
die ;  but  just  then  his  hand  caught  a  thread 
placed  in  the  winding  maze,  and  so  hand  over 
hand  he  followed  its  leading  and  was  safely 
conducted  out  of  these  strange  sepulchres  into 
the  presence  of  the  living,  busy  world,  that 
he  might  still  press  on  in  the  ways  of  duty. 
So  it  is,  the  All-Good  has  dropped  in  the  way 
of  nations  and  individuals  providential  threads 
which  the  faithful,  if  cast  down,  may  gather  up 
and  follow,  and  they  will  be  certain  to  lead 
above  all  ruins  into  the  fadeless  day  and  the 
Eternal  City,  whose  streets  will  always  be 
crowded  with  works  of  angelic  art,  and  whose 
walls  will  reflect  the  paintings  of  faithful  and 
sainted  characters. 


IX. 

NAPLES  AND  ITS  BURIED  CITIES. 

IVTAPLES  and  its  bay  once  seen  live  in 
-^^  memory  like  a  fairy  dream,  or  an  en- 
chanting vision.  The  Italians  say,  "The  Bay 
of  Naples  is  a  piece  of  Paradise  let  fall  to  the 
earth."  Its  fascinating  beauties  almost  justify 
the  statement. 

Sailing  into  the  bay,  the  island  of  Capri  first 
greets  the  eye,  rising  from  the  miiTor-surface 
sea  like  a  lofty  nymph,  reflecting  all  the  day 
long  varying  shadows  and  exquisite  beauties. 
Looking  upon  it  now,  one  is  disposed  to  ques- 
tion the  statement  of  mythology  saying,  "It 
was  once  the  haunt  of  the  most  cruel  tyrant." 
In  front,  not  far  off,  stands  Vesuvius  with  his 
crest  of  smoke  waving  as  a  massive  plume 
above  the  steel  helmet  of  a  giant  warrior.  Soon 
is  discovered  a  frino^e  of  white  towns  circlino^ 
from  Posilippo  on  the  west  to  Sorrento  on  the 
east,  with  Naples  in  the  centre,  overtopped  by 
the  castle  of  St.  Elmo.  The  houses  seem  to 
rise  in  quick  succession  one  above  another.    The 


NAPLES   AND   ITS   BURIED   CITIES.  249 

hills  in  the  distance  are  covered  with  vineyards, 
olive-trees,  and  extensive  forests.  Far  off  the 
Apennines  shoot  up  their  glistening  spires  into 
the  sky.  Everything  is  touched  with  the 
balmiest  air  and  the  softest  light.  Ships  lying 
at  anchor  and  sundry  light  crafts  scattered 
about,  complete  the  fascinating  picture. 

Though  the  physical  is  so  attractive,  still  the 
deepest  interest  lies  in  the  historic  associations. 
These  excite  pagan  and  Christian  memories. 
They  tell  us,  these  lands  were  once  occupied  by 
the  refined  Greeks  who  revelled  in  art  and 
science,  music  and  nature,  until  they  were  over- 
come by  the  Eomans ;  then  they  passed  into 
the  hands  of  a  succession  of  intruders,  includ- 
ing Normans,  Swabians,  Sicilians,  Austrians, 
French,  and  Spanish  Bourbons.  Each  has  left 
its  peculiar  impress,  and  influence.  Accord- 
ingly, among  the  people  there  exists  the  greatest 
possible  variety  of  minds,  characters,  complex- 
ions, dispositions,  and  conditions. 

Entering  the  city  one  can  but  be  delighted 
with  the  broad  and  beautiful  street  Chiaia  which 
extends  round  the  coast.  Coming  from  Rome, 
or  other  cities  of  the  Sunny  Land,  it  is  refresh- 
ing to  travel  this  roomy  highway,  tastefully 
ornamented  with  works  of  art  and  nature. 
Penetrating  into  the   city  the  streets  become 


250      AFTER-TnOUGIITS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

narrow  and  huddled.  The  houses  are  built 
upon  the  steepest  hillsides,  tier  above  tier,  till 
they  reach  the  lofty  summit  of  St.  Elmo.  The 
buildings  vary  in  height  from  one  to  six  aud 
seven  stories.  The  shops,  as  a  rule,  are  of  the 
simplest  construction,  consisting  of  one  small 
room  with  a  wide  doorway  which  is  most 
always  open.  Here  the  shopkeepers  work, 
trade,  and  many  of  them  live.  Those  unable 
to  secure  shops,  use  the  streets  for  mechanical, 
mercantile,  and  domestic  purposes.  It  is  sur- 
prising to  realize  how  much  the  people  here 
live  out-doors.  The  number  in  the  streets  all 
day  long  and  late  into  the  night  is  enormous. 
The  last  part  of  each  day  is  quite  sure  to  be 
devoted  to  riding,  especially  upon  the  Chiaia. 
The  well-to-do  are  furnished  with  elegant 
horses  and  carriages,  while  the  poor  are  drawn 
in  gigs  and  carts  by  mules  and  donkeys.  All 
appear  to  be  merry  and  happy ;  particularly  is 
this  the  case  with  the  lower  classes,  when  fif- 
teen or  twenty  of  both  sexes  and  all  ages,  are 
piled  into  one  vehicle,  and  bound  on  a  good 
time.  The  people  exhibit  the  greatest  variety 
of  blood  and  culture.  The  majority  in  form 
are  slim  and  tall.  Many  faces  are  handsome, 
others  homely ;  some  are  light,  and  others  dark ; 
some  are  Grecian,  some  are  Roman,  and  some 


NAPLES   AND    ITS   BURIED   CITIES.  251 

are  mongrel.  The  masses  believe  in  little  work 
and  much  play.  Their  motto  seems  to  be,  late 
to  bed  and  late  to  rise,  will  make  us  jolly,  if 
not  wise  They  are  as  impulsive  and  explosive 
as  the  soil  on  which  they  dwell.  Then  all 
nature  serves  to  fire  the  imagination  and  spur 
the  senses  to  rule  over  the  reason.  The  tints 
of  the  sky,  the  luxuriance  of  the  soil,  the  sub- 
limity of  the  mountains,  and  the  beauty  of  the 
sea,  all  have  combined  to  mould  natures,  subtle 
and  volatile,  ready  to  sacrifice  future  good  for 
present  enjoyment.  The  Neapolitans  count 
largely  upon  the  climate  and  natural  produc- 
tions  for  their  support.  They  believe  strongly 
in  partnership  ;  for  two  unite  to  black  a  pair  of 
boots ;  three  or  four,  to  wait  upon  one  from  a 
carriage  ;  and  a  whole  crew,  to  lift  a  trunk  from 
an  omnibus. 

The  chief  manufactures  are  kid  gloves, 
shoes,  coral  jewelry,  lava  trinkets,  and  mac- 
aroni. Though  there  is  such  a  tendency  to 
mutual  aid,  still  the  people  do  not  look  upon 
each  other  as  honest  and  trustworthy.  This  is 
made  evident  by  the  way  milk  is  distributed 
through  their  city.  The  goats  and  cows  are 
driven  from  door  to  door,  and  the  purchasers 
watch  while  the  desired  quantity  is  milked. 
Certainly  this  is  practical,  and  should  the  cus- 


252      AFTER-TIIOUGHTS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

torn  be  adopted  in  some  other  countries  and 
cities,  the  people  would  be  served  to  less  water, 
and  more  cream. 

In  this  city  of  six  hundred  thousand  inhabi- 
tants, there  are  many  church  edifices,  but  ap- 
parently little  true  religion.  Priest^ are  plenty 
but  true  worshippers  are  few.  However,  the 
condition  of  things  has  changed  wonderfully 
since  the  last  Bourbon  ruler  was  expelled  from 
this  country,  and  it  was  united  to  Italy  under 
the  reign  of  Victor  Emanuel.  Since  that  change 
happy  advances  have  been  made  in  religious  and 
educational  movements.  Monasteries  have  been 
suppressed  and  Protestant  schools  have  been 
opened  in  which  hundreds  of  children  from 
Catholic  families  are  being  educated.  Some  of 
these  children  are  very  precocious  and  promis- 
ing. This  was  signally  illustrated  not  long 
ago  by  a  class  of  boys  under  fourteen  years  of 
age,  who  had  been  reading  twice  a  day  for  a 
term  of  three  months  in  Matthew's  Gospel. 
These  boys  had  been  in  school  less  than  two 
years,  and  yet  they  were  able  to  read  finely 
any  part  of  Matthew  and  John's  Gospels,  and 
some  half  a  dozen  of  the  class  could  recite  from 
memory  any  passage  or  portion  of  Matthew. 
Could  these  bright  boys  become  thoroughly 
educated,  and  then  go  forth  as  teachers  in  the 


NAPLES   AND   ITS   BURIED   CITIES.  253 

land,  what  a  power  they  would  become  to 
redeem  and  save  their  nation ! 

Though  great  improvements  are  being  made 
here,  nevertheless,  ignorance  and  poverty  have 
a  strong  hold.  Scarcely  anything  is  more  com- 
mon thaiiJ'jto  see  old  men  with  spectacles  on, 
sitting  at  the  corners  of  the  streets  and  in  public 
places,  behind  tables  with  pen  and  paper  at 
hand,  following  the  vocation  of  letter-writing. 
By  their  side  may  often  be  seen  boys  and  girls, 
men  and  women,  dictating  some  message  of 
joy  or  sorrow,  love  or  spite.  The  lower  strata 
of  society  are  so  densely  populated,  there  can 
be  no  hope  of  their  speedy  amelioration.  If 
beggary  is  declining,  squalidness  is  still  prev- 
alent. The  poorer  classes  live  almost  wholly 
out  of  doors  summer  and  winter.  They  cook 
m  the  streets  and  sleep  on  the  sidewalks.  Many 
are  obliged  to  subsist  on  nothino^  better  than 
raw  fish  and  slimy  macaroni.  But  the  condi- 
tion of  the  higher  classes  offers  a  striking  con- 
trast. They  live  in  stately  villas  and  grand 
blocks,  surrounded  by  courts  and  gardens  filled 
with  orange  and  lemon  trees  laden  with  blos- 
soms and  fruit  at  the  same  time. 

But  as  there  are  objects  of  equal,  or  greater 
interest  outside  of  the  city,  it  is  natural  to  seek 
early  after  these.     In  the  suburbs  on  the  west 


254      AFTER-THOUGHTS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

descends  from  the  castle  of  St.  Elmo  into  the 
bay,  the  promontory  of  Posilippo.  On  its  height 
stood  more  than  eighteen  centuries  ago  the  villa 
of  Mantua's  sweet  singer.  There  Virgil  lived, 
while  he  composed  his  Eclogues,  Georgics, 
and  some  of  the  books  of  the  -^Eneid.  Is  it 
strange,  that  should  be  a  cherished  spot  to  the 
scholar?  Who  can  count  the  number  of  minds 
that  have  been  blest  by  the  smooth  lines  drop- 
ping from  the  lyre  of  the  great  poet,  as  he  lived, 
loved,  and  sung,  where  he  enjoyed  fairest  views 
of  land,  sea,  and  sky  ?  Not  far  from  the  site  of 
his  home,  just  at  the  entrance  to  the  tunnel  of 
Posilippo,  is  his  tomb.  Time  has  erased  all  in- 
scriptions, and  destructive  hands  of  visitors 
have  plucked  up  the  laurel  planted  by  Petrarch, 
but  the  ages  have  not  been  able  to  abrade 
the  name  of  Virgil  from  the  minds  of  the  edu- 
cated, proving  that  he  who  nobly  works,  is 
certain  to  become  immortal  in  the  hearts  of  hu- 
manity. 

The  tunnel  Of  Posilippo  is  a  wonder,  when  we 
consider  that  it  was  constructed  more  than  two 
thousand  years  ago,  and  is  half  a  mile  in  length, 
extending  from  Naples  to  the  Bay  of  Baige.  It 
was  thoroughly  arched  with  brick,  paved  and 
curiously  ventilated,  so  that  there  was  no  incon- 
venience in  travelling:  throuo:h  it.     We  must 


NAPLES   AND   ITS   BURIED   CITIES.  255 

admit,  it  was  a  grand  piece  of  engineering  in 
its  day. 

A  little  way  from  Posilippo  to  the  west  is 
Puzzuoli,  the  Puteoli  at  which  Paul  landed 
when  on  his  way  to  Rome..  Here  he  found 
friends  and  taiTied  seven  days.  Puteoli  was 
then  a  commodious  city,  furnished  with  magnifi- 
cent buildings ;  but  its  grandeur  and  wealth 
have  gone.  The  ruins  of  its  amphitheatre  still 
reniain  in  which  Nero  degraded  his  imperial 
majesty  by  fighting  with  wild  beasts  to  amuse 
the  king  of  Armenia.  In  it  also,  it  is  said,  Janu- 
arius  and  his  disciples  were  forced  to  contend 
with  the  fiercest  animals,  but  without  injury, 
before  their  martyrdom.  The  cell  in  which  the 
saint  was  imprisoned,  has  been  converted  into 
a  chapel  in  his  honor.  Here  is  the  white  stone 
which  turns  red,  so  it  is  stated,  at  the  instant 
his  preserved  blood  in  Naples  is  liquidized, 
which  monkish  report  says,  takes  place  three 
times  a  year. 

Not  far  to  the  east  of  Puzzuoli,  is  Solfatara, 
a  semi-dormant  volcano,  which  Strabo  chris- 
tened, "Forum  of  Vulcan."  Though  it  has 
ejected  no  lava  since  1198,  still  it  sends  out 
vapors  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  and  muriate  of 
ammonia,  roaring  with  the  noise  of  a  thousand 
active  blast  furnaces.     Not  far  from  Solfatara 


256      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

is  the  Grotto  del  Cane,  known  to  Pliny  as  one 
of  "  Charon's  breathing  holes."  This  is  a  cave 
whose  lower  portion  is  filled  with  carbonic-acid 
gas,  so  that  a  person  standing  is  not  injured, 
but  a  doc:  at  his  £eet  soon  dies.  It  was  in  this 
vicinity  Virgil  pictured  the  descent  of  ^neas 
to  the  infernal  regions.  What  could  be  more 
natural  than  for  a  people  believing  in  mythol- 
ogy and  polytheism,  to  connect  these  terrific 
prodigies  with  sulphurous  under-ground  realms, 
where  they  believed  Pluto  reigned  to  torture 
wicked  souls? 

A  short  distance  to  the  west  is  the  fabled 
Avernus  where,  the  legend  says,  Ulysses  made 
a  visit  to  the  Infernal  Reorions.     But  instead  of 

»      o 

its  now  being  gloomy  and  fearful,  it  is  a  gem 
of  a  lake  being  circular  and  less  than  half  a 
mile  in  diameter.  Its  waters  are  clear  and 
alive  with  fish.  If  its  name  signifies  birdless, 
the  feathered  tribes  enjoy  it  now.  No  dense 
forests  gloom  its  sides,  or  poisonous  vapors  rise 
from  its  surface,  as  represented  by  classic  pens. 
The  Sibyl's  Cave  is  in  an  inner  recess  leading 
from  Avernus  on  the  west.  Probably  Virgil's 
Sibyl  had  her  abode  in  this  cavern.  A  third  of  a 
mile  from  the  opening  is  a  lake  of  tepid  water 
in  which,  it  is  supposed,  Hannibal  sacrificed  to 
Pluto.     By  the  order  of  Agrippa  a  tunnel  of 


NAPLES   AND  ITS   BURIED   CITIES.  257 

nearly  three  thousand  feet  in  length  was  cut 
from  this  cave  through  a  hill  to  the  so-called 
Elysian  Fields,  which  from  their  climate  and 
beauty  were  regarded,  as  the  home  of  the 
blessed.  Now  it  is  the  most  desolate  region 
imaginable.  No  longer  does  the  fabled  plain 
lend  enchantment.  Its  inhabitants  are  the 
most  beggarly  of  the  peasantry  in  Southern 
Italy.  Surely,  if  they  dwell  in  Elysium,  none 
need  despair  of  dwelling  in  "fairi/  lands," 

To  the  west  and  south  of  Avernus  on  the  bay 
of  Baise,  once  stood  a  delightful  city  bearing  the 
name  of  the  bay.  This  was  a  favorite  resort  of 
Horace,  Cicero,  Lucullus,  and  Caesar.  All  that 
now  remain  to  tell  of  its  former  beauty  and 
grandeur,  are  ruined  temples,  baths,  and  tombs. 
The  wonderful  bridge  which  Caligula  caused  to 
be  built,  reaching  from  Baiae  to  Puteoli,  a  dis- 
tance of  two  miles,  and  the  grand  docks  about 
the  city,  are  gone  except  a  few  straggling  piers. 
Now  live  among  the  ruins  most  wretched  human 
beings,  whose  very  presence  tarnishes  the  works 
of  art  and  the  beauties  of  nature.  When  Baige 
was  in  its  zenith,  Nero  had  a  palace  here,  where 
he  was  wont  to  spend  his  summers.  At  the 
time  Paul  landed  at  Puteoli,  the  emperor  of 
Rome  was  at  his  summer  house.  About  the 
same  time  the  apostle  sailed  into  the  harbor. 


258      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

might  have  been  seen  another  barge  floating  into 
this  lovely  bay  in  which  was  Agrippina,  the 
mother  of  Nero.  The  son  had  invited  the 
mother  to  visit  him  at  Baiae  that  they  might 
reconcile  certain  unnatural  animosities  existing 
between  them.  Agrippina  gladly  accepted  the 
invitation  to  celebrate  with  her  son  the  feasts  of 
Minerva,  that  all  discord  between  them  might 
be  done  away.  Nero  met  his  mother  affection- 
ately at  the  landing,  and  tenderly  led  her  un- 
suspecting to  a  villa,  where  she  was  to  take 
another  vessel  to  cross  the  arm  of  the  bay  to  the 
palace,  where  she  was  to  be  entertained  during 
her  visit.  The  son  said  "  he  would  fain  have 
her  experience  this  last  sail  under  the  light  of 
the  stars,  because  of  the  vesper  charms  under 
these  southern  skies."  So  they  joyfully,  it 
would  seem,  tarried  together  till  the  day  waned 
and  the  night  waxed  dark.  At  length  the  son 
bid  the  mother  an  apparently  sweet  good-by, 
and  repaired  quickly  to  his  palace,  terribly 
wicked  and  revengeful.  The  vessel  in  which 
Agrippina  was  to  take  passage  had  been  fitted  up 
with  great  pomp,  as  for  an  empress,  but  care- 
fully adjusted  so  that  at  a  given  signal,  the  rocf 
of  the  cabin  burdened  with  lead,  should  drop 
and  crush  instantly  all  underneath.  This  was 
Nero's  plan  of  putting  an  end  to  the  difficulties 


NAPLES   AND  ITS  BURIED   CITIES.  259 

with  his  mother  without  the  suspicion  of  matri-. 
cide.  Those  in  charge  of  the  boat  were  his 
sworn  abettors.  Not  long  after  leaving  the 
wharf,  lo  !  a  crash  !  The  deck  fell  killing  a  ser- 
vant, but  so  lodged  as  to  spare  the  empress  and 
Acerronia,  her  companion.  The  sailors  at  once 
cried  aloud,  "  The  barge  is  sinking ! "  The 
women  plunged  into  the  water,  suspecting  death 
was  surely  upon  them.  At  the  same  time  the 
men  sprung  forward  to  do  Nero's  bidding  in  a 
more  certain  way.  But  Acerronia,  the  faithful 
friend,  with  a  woman's  intuition  and  forgetful- 
ness  of  self,  saved  her  mistress  for  the  time  be- 
ing in  sacrificing  her  own  life,  by  crying,  "  Save 
me,  I  am  Nero's  mother  !  "  She  was  immedi- 
ately beaten  to  death,  but  Agrippina  floated 
ashore,  soon,  however,  to  be  put  to  death. 

As  these  facts  are  reviewed  by  land  and  sea, 
we  can  but  feel,  Acerronia  died  a  heroine,  in- 
deed, that  Agrippina  was  the  unfortunate  moth- 
er of  a  Caesar,  and  that  Nero  proved  himself  a 
despicable  son  and  tyrant ! 

Five  miles  to  the  east  of  Naples  is  Resina  on 
the  shore  of  the  bay  and  at  the  base  of  Vesu- 
vius. In  making  this  distance  in  a  carriage 
soon  after  sunrise,  one  can  witness  sights,  more 
varied  and  novel  than  those  of  a  balloon-fair,  or 
an  old-fashioned   muster.      We  saw  lazzaroni 


260      AFTEE-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

with  bead  upturned  and  arms  extended,  sucking 
down  macaroni  by  tbo  yard  ;  boys  guiding  don- 
keys by  the  switch,  loaded  with  all  kinds  of 
vegetables  ;  a  woman  carrying  a  hogshead  on 
her  head ;  carts  drawn  by  single  oxen ;  mules 
and  cows  yoked  together ;  butcher's  meat  laid 
on  the  sidewalk  for  sale ;  any  quantity  of  mac- 
aroni drying  in  the  ditches  for  foreign  markets ; 
gigs  crowded  with  peasantry  in  their  motley 
costumes,  and  old  men  and  children  suspended 
in  sacks  under  the  axle-trees,  riding  to  town ; 
women  in  the  doorways  spinning  with  the 
distaff;  barracks  in  one  building  capable  of 
holding  at  the  same  time  ten  thousand  soldiers-; 
the  custom-house  surrounded  by  loaded  teams 
waiting  for  a  license  to  enter  the  city ;  and 
finally  any  number  of  faccini  at  Resina  to  wait 
upon  us  from  the  carriage  and  act  as  guides  to 
Vesuvius. 

From  this  point  on  horseback  one  can  ascend, 
following  a  paved  road  for  some  two  miles ; 
then  it  is  climbing  over  huge  folds  of  black 
porous  lava  which  has  flowed  down  the  sides  of 
the  mountain  from  time  to  time  to  the  distance 
of  seven  miles.  Really  all  now  from  above 
and  below  seems  fearfully  sublime.  It  is  diffi- 
cult to  exaoforerate  Vesuvius.  For  miles  now  it 
is  riding  over  ragged  banks  of  lava,  barren  and 


NAPLES   AND  ITS   BURIED   CITIES.  261 

desolate.  After  six  miles  of  hard  climbinof 
the  Hermitage  and  Observatory  are  reached 
which  are  situated  twenty-two  hundred  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  professor  in  charge  of 
the  observatories  has  carefully  watched  and 
noted  the  phenomena  of  the  mountain,  until 
it  is  now  believed,  he  can  tell  when  there  is  to 
be  an  eruption  some  days  before  it  will  take 
place.  He  has  observed  that  previous  to  an 
outflow,  the  water  of  the  bay  recedes  from  the 
strand,  the  wells  dry  up  around  its  base,  the 
earth  trembles  by  spells,  and  the  air  is  likely  to 
become  lurid  and  oppressive.  Science  has 
proved  a  great  blessing  to  those  dwelling  about 
this  mountain.  These  buildings  stand  upon  a 
portion  of  land  which  has  remained  undisturbed 
since  the  destruction  of  Pompeii  and  Hercu- 
laneum.  Lava  has  been  poured  all  round,  still 
it  has  been  spared  to  smile  with  oaks,  olives, 
vines,  and  fig-trees.  It  is  now  connected  with 
Resina  by  a  carriage-road.  From  the  Hermit- 
age on  for  three  miles,  it  is  passing  over  old 
and  new  formations  of  lava.  At  this  extent 
the  cone  of  the  mountain  begins  to  rise  very 
abruptly.  Now  there  is  an  opportunity  to 
ascend  either  by  rail,  or  on  foot,  to  the  crater. 
If  the  decision  is  in  favor  of  the  latter,  then  it 
is  climbing,    scrambling,  and   wading  through 


262      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

sand  under  diflSculties  to  the  height  of  some 
sixteen  hundred  feet  to  the  summit  which  is  in 
altitude  more  than  three  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea.  As  the  rim  of  the  crater  is  now 
reached  which  is  circular  and  a  third  of  a  mile 
in  diameter,  the  sight  at  once  becomes  sublimely 
exciting  I  As  often,  as  every  minute,  a  large 
quantity  of  molten  lava  is  hurled  many  hundred 
feet  into  the  air,  and  then  it  soon  comes  rattling 
back  into  the  basin  of  the  crater.  The  scene  is 
truly  wild  and  furious,  and  yet  somehow  it 
does  fascinate  and  hold  one  spellbound  to  its 
awful  grandeur  I  We  gathered  up  forty  va- 
rieties of  lava  from  the  crater. 

The  prospect  from  this  height  is  enchanting. 
The  bay,  fringed  with  its  white  belt  of  towns, 
is  lost  in  beauty,  or  glorified  by  distance.  On 
all  sides  save  that  looking  upon  the  sea,  are 
mountains  rising  billowy  into  the  air  of  every 
type  —  conical,  abrupt,  craggy,  verdant,  and 
far  off,  crested  with  glistening  snow.  The 
only  regret  the  visitor  can  have  on  leaving 
Vesuvius  is,  that  he  has  not  more  time  to  see 
and  admire,  and  better  means  afforded  for 
carrying  off  more  and  larger  specimens  from 
this  realm  of  fiery  sublimity.  Descending,  the 
eye  is  delighted  with  all  below  and  around, 
and  the  heart  is  made  fflad  to  Him  who  created 


NAPLES    AND   ITS   B CRIED   CITIES.  263 

the  sea,  the  mountain  and  sky,  so  varied  and 
so  expressive  of  All-Wisdom  and  All-Power. 
In  the  seventy-ninth  year  of  the  Christian 
era  from  the  top  of  Vesuvius  a  thousand  feet 
in  depth  were  lifted  and  thrown  upon  Pompeii 
situated  to  the  southeast  some  nine  miles  dis- 
tant, and  then  liquid  lava  flowed  from  the  crater 
to  the  southwest  burying  Herculaneum  deep 
out  of  sight.  These  overwhelmed  cities  re- 
mained  for  centuries  undiscovered.  Resina 
stands  over  Herculaneum.  The  ruins  of  this 
city  were  discovered  in  1709  by  digging  a 
well.  The  lava  covering  it  is  exceedingly 
hard  and  a  hundred  feet  deep.  Descending  a 
Ions:  fli^rht  of  stairs  cut  out  of  the  lava,  we 
come  to  a  Roman  open-air  theatre.  It  has 
been  excavated  so  that  all  parts  of  the  stage 
can  be  seen,  — the  orchestra,  the  stand  for  the 
crier,  and  the  frescoings  on  the  walls.  The 
lava  ran  into  every  crevice  and  nook,  still 
enough  has  been  removed  to  show  that  the 
theatre  was  immense.  Some  distance  south 
of  this,  explorations  have  been  made  where 
the  destruction  was  by  showers  of  ashes  and 
sand.  A  prison  and  several  other  buildings 
have  been  unearthed,  still  for  the  most  part 
Herculaneum  is  sealed,  as  in  solid  rock.  But 
seven  miles  from  Resina  to  the  eastward,  a  little 


264      AFTEU-THOUOHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

way  from  the  bay,  is  Poiupeii.  This  city  lay 
concealed  till  as  late  as  1750.  It  was  revealed 
by  an  accidental  discovery  of  painted  relics. 
This  city  was  covered  with  ashes  and  loose 
lava  which  composed  the  upper  portion  of 
Vesuvius.  It  has  been  nearly  all  removed, 
so  that  the  city  and  the  walls  can  be  seen 
without  any  obstruction.  The  roofs  of  most 
of  the  houses  are  broken  in ;  otherwise  the 
city  is  remarkably  well  preserved.  It  can 
be  studied  in  detail  on  its  own  site,  or  in  the 
museum  at  Naples.  On  its  site  remain  the 
streets,  temples,  theatres,  houses,  shops,  baths, 
and  tombs.  Most  that  was  movable  has  been 
transported  to  the  National  Museum  at  Naples. 
The  houses  are  one  and  two  stories  high.  The 
streets  are  narrow,  and  the  pavements  are  deeply 
rutted  from  the  wear  of  chariot  wheels.  The 
buildings  were  made  of  brick  and  faced  with 
stucco.  The  larger  mansions  must  have  been 
truly  magnificent. 

The  walls  bearing  the  names  of  Sallust,  Pan- 
sa,  and  Diomede,  indicate  that  their  residences 
were  elegant.  The  shops  and  stores  were  small, 
and  are  to  be  distinguished  by  their  marble 
counters  and  siofns  cut  into  the  front  walls. 
Ovens,  corn-mills,  wine-vessels,  and  oil-jars,  re- 
main just  as  they  were  last  used.     The  temples 


NAPLES  AND  ITS  BURIED  CITIES.  265 

are  of  Corinthian  style  and  of  very  elaborate 
workmanship.  The  amphitheatre  is  almost  en- 
tire, having  a  capacity  sufficient  to  seat  ten 
thousand  spectators  at  the  same  time.  Over 
mantels  and  awnings,  there  are  many  exquisite 
paintings  and  mosaics,  but  on  the  walls  of  some 
of  their  common  rooms,  are  voluptuous  pictures 
which  must  have  been  constantly  before  the 
eyes  of  whole  families,  and  which  now  would 
be  tolerated  only  in  the  lowest  haunts  of  profli- 
gacy. This  implies,  if  the  city  was  a  favorite 
resort  for  scholars  and  artists,  its  people  were 
vitiated  and  sensual. 

It  would  seem  before  Pompeii  was  buried, 
there  had  been  warnings  of  impending  dangers 
sufficient  to  drive  most  of  the  inhabitants  from 
the  city ;  so  that  but  few  lives  were  destroyed 
in  it;  probably  not  more  than  two  or  three 
hundred  out  of  a  population  of  ten  thousand. 
The  remains  of  these  have  been  found  in  such 
conditions  as  to  show,  they  were  frightened  and 
overcome  in  an  unsuspecting  hour.  It  appears 
as  though  these  were  after  treasures  in  the  city  ; 
for  in  the  hands  of  some  were  found  baofs  of 
gold  and  precious  things.  The  bodies  are  well 
preserved.  Rings  are  upon  their  fingers  and 
ornaments  about  their  necks.  Some  of  these 
relics  are  to  be  seen  in  rooms  near  the  gate  of 


266      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

the  old  city,  while  others  are  in  the  museum  at 
Naples,  where  now  are  to  be  witnessed  more  of 
Pompeii  than  among  its  roofless  walls.  On 
visting  that  remarkable  collection  of  antiquities, 
one  can  but  be  deeply  interested  in  the  numer- 
ous rolls  of  charred  papyrus  which  are  being 
unravelled  and  made  legible,  so  that  the  history 
of  that  people  is  being  revealed.  These  shriv- 
elled scrolls  serve  to  bring  us  near  their  writei*s 
and  times ;  but  certainly  they  do  not  strike  the 
mind  more  vividly  than  the  preserved  articles 
of  food  ready  for  the  table,  —  such  as  baked 
bread,  roasted  fowls,  cracked  nuts,  spices,  loaf 
sugar,  dates,  olives,  and  various  grains.  In  the 
culinary  department  are  to  be  seen,  kettles,  spi- 
ders, ladles,  graters,  moulds  and  forms  for  pas- 
try, representing  chickens,  pigs,  and  hearts. 
Several  elaborate  cooking  stoves  have  been 
discovered,  furnished  with  bronze  ware,  plated 
inside  with  silver.  The  Pompeians  cooked 
their  eggs  on  their  breakfast-tables  in  boilers 
capacitated  to  hold  twenty-four.  These  uten- 
sils are  similar  in  shape  to  those  of  modern 
dates.  From  the  shops  have  been  collected 
scales  and  steelyards,  evidently  nicely  adjusted  ;. 
compasses,  measures  of  length,  liquids,  and 
grains.  The  measures  are  in  the  form  of  pretty 
vases ;  the  weights  are  busts  of  gods,  emperors. 


NAPLES   AND   ITS   BtJKIED   CITIES.  267 

and  figures  of  animals.  The  lamps  and  candela- 
bra are  graceful  in  design  and  beautiful  in  fin- 
ish. In  the  liaths  have  been  found  bathing-tubs, 
mirrors,  combs,  dressing-cases,  musical  instru- 
ments, locks,  keys,  bells,  and  door-knobs.  From 
the  stables  have  been  gathered  harnesses  and 
carriages  which  must  have  been  airy  and  beau- 
tiful. In  the  workshops  have  been  discovered 
hatchets,  saws,  hammers,  and  garden  tools,  not 
inferior  to  those  of  the  present  day.  The  col- 
lection of  surgical  instruments  is  extensive, 
throwing  much  light  upon  surgery,  proving  the 
antiquity  of  the  profession.  Some  of  the  in- 
struments surpass  even  many  of  the  best  in 
modern  practice.  The  workmanship  in  jewelry 
and  personal  ornaments  i  is  of  a  high  order  and 
not  inappropriate  for  present  use.  The  mosaics 
and  frescos  in  style  have  never  been  surpassed. 
The  statuary  in  marble  and  bronze  is  very 
choice.  Surveying  the  many  figures  of  every 
possible  design,  one  can  but  feel  they  are  true 
to  life  and  nature.  Those  taken  from  the  tem- 
ples and  altars,  show  that  their  religion  was 
polytheistic.  This  region  must  have  been  to 
the  ancients,  what  Rome  now  is  to  the  papist 
world.  Here  were  their  Elysian  Fields  and  their 
awful  Avernus.  Is  it  strange  that  from  these 
wastes,  should  come  forth  at  the  present  time  a 


268      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

mild  form  of  deism,  or  pantheism  ?  The  inhab- 
itants have  always  believed  mueh  in  Egypt  and 
Greece.  But  their  ancient  faith  did  not  save 
them  from  sin  and  destruction.  We  have  little 
reason  to  suppose  that  their  modern  atheistic 
views  can  render  them  honest  and  determined 
for  the  right.  Their  recuperation,  or  reforma- 
tion, is  to  come  from  the  west. 

Their  present  school  system  has  been  trans- 
planted from  America.  Since  Garibaldi  trod 
this  soil,  moved  by  the  principles  of  Washing- 
ton, striking  a  death-blow  to  Bourbon  tyranny, 
this  whole  region  has  experienced  a  great  awak- 
ening. Let  free  education  do  its  perfect  work, 
and  Christianity  will  surely  let  ftill  her  richest 
benedictions  upon  this  fiiir  land.  Then  here 
nature,  art,  and  the  spiritual,  will  combine  to 
perfect  human  souls. 

Just  outside  the  walls  of  Pompeii,  close  by 
the  main  entrance,  is  a  stone  sentry-box  in 
which  was  found,  as  the  city  was  being  un- 
covered, a  petrified  sentinel  with  sword  by  his 
side,  standing  as  one  faithful  to  duty  in  the 
midst  of  the  most  threatening  dangers.  No 
other  object  among  the  ruins,  or  sights  of  that 
land  is  so  suggestive.  It  is  full  of  thrilling 
inspiration.     It  foretells  the  sublimest  victory. 


GREECE  AND  ATHENS. 

/^  RECIAN  soil  and  seas  are  rich  in  natural 
^^  beauty  and  classic  story.  As  we  have 
sailed  among  the  islands  south  and  east  of  At- 
tica, we  have  found  them  like  emerald  gems 
dropped  upon  the  sapphire  bosom  of  the  ^gean 
Sea.  Were  the  legend  true  that  Icarus,  the  son 
of  Daedalus,  being  offended  at  Minos,  made 
wings  and  feathers  of  wax  for  himself  and  son, 
so  as  to  escape  from  Crete,  and  while  soaring 
too  high  the  sun  melted  off  their  wings  and 
they  fell  into  the  sea,  producing  these  islands, 
we  should  say  that  fall  and  death  were  timely 
and  fortunate,  yielding  such  results  of  beauty 
and  durability. 

Khodes  has  told  us  of  her  colossal  statue 
which  once  spanned  the  entrance  to  her  main 
harbor,  and  how  the  knights  of  St.  John  on  her 
soil  fought  for  Christianity.  We  have  seen 
Selos  which  rises  like  a  pyramid  of  purest 
green,  and  Syme  which  looks  as  though  it 
might  have  produced  Nereus  who  after  Achilles 


270      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

was  the  handsomest  man  among  all  the  Greeks 
at  the  siege  of  old  Troy.  We  have  anchored 
by  Cos,  the  birthplace  of  Apelles,  the  greiitest 
painter  of  ancient  times.  We  have  examined 
the  barren  and  rocky  Patmos  which  still  re- 
peats its  sad  tale  of  the  banishment  of  St.  John. 
Chios  has  offered  us  her  claims,  as  being  the 
birthplace  of  Homer,  and  assured  us  that  Ion, 
the  tragic  poet,  and  Theopompus,  the  historian, 
were  born  upon  her  soil.  Lesbos  has  smiled 
upon  us  and  taught  us  of  the  sweet  singers, 
Alceus  and  Sappho,  of  the  lonians  and  JEolians, 
so  fond  of  music  and  poetry.  We  have  gazed 
upon  Trojan  fields  made  enchanting  by  the 
epics  of  Homer  and  Virgil.  Tenos,  Andros, 
and  Syros,  have  all  spoken  to  us  of  the  past 
and  the  present,  inspiring  the  feeling,  there  is 
something  peculiar  and  charming  about  Grecian 
lands  and  Grecian  character. 

At  early  morning  our  steamer  is  ploughing  its 
way  into  the  Saronic  Gulf.  The  sky  is  of  the 
clearest  ruby ;  the  air  is  like  crystal ;  the  glim- 
mering water  is  shooting  off  in  every  direction 
the  fire  and  silver  of  the  sunlight.  Almost  en- 
circling us  in  fairest  outlines  are  sharp  and  lofty 
peaks  painted  on  the  sky.  As  the  steamer 
approaches  the  shore,  the  village  of  Piraeus 
and  the  white-crested  Acropolis  meet  the  eye. 


GREECE  AND  ATHENS.  271 

They  do  not  appear  to  be  more  than  five  miles 
away,  yet  they  are  ten  or  twenty  miles  distant. 
Our  steamer  winds  its  com'se  among  the  islands, 
and  at  length  Avhirls  into  a  narrow  channel  be- 
tween the  island  of  Salamis  and  a  peninsula  of 
the  mainland.  Upon  the  right  only  a  few  rods 
from  us,  just  upon  the  shore,  is  a  plain  marble 
slab  purporting  to  mark  the  grave  of  brave 
Themistocles.  Memory  would  fiiin  linger  here 
and  worship  at  the  shrine  of  the  great  warrior. 
It  is  pleasant  to  recall  how,  when  a  boy,  he  was 
full  of  spirit  and  fire,  —  how  he  spent  his  hours 
of  leisure  and  vacation  not  in  idleness,  or  play, 
but  in  composing  declamations,  — how  his  mas- 
ter was  wont  to  say,  "  Boy,  you  will  be  nothing 
common,  or  indifferent,  you  will  either  be  a 
blessing,  or  a  curse  to  the  community," — ^how 
he  said,  as  he  became  the  head  of  a  family,  that 
"  He  had  rather  his  daughter  would  marry  a  man 
without  money  than  money  without  a  man." 

Upon  our  left  is  the  island  of  Salamis,  and 
around  it  the  bay  of  the  same  name.  Strange 
deeds  now  begin  to  haunt  the  mind.  We  can 
scarcely  conceive  how  the  old  Athenians  once 
found  security  on  that  island  of  a  few  miles  in 
extent,  when  the  Persian  hosts  invaded  their 
land.  As  we  pass  into  the  roadstead  of  Piraeus, 
anchors  are  dropped,  and  lo !  we  are  resting 


272      AFTEE-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

where  once  was  moored  the  vast  fleet  of  Xerxes, 
waiting  for  battle.  On  the  shore  a  little  way 
off  rises  up  some  five  hundred  feet,  the  grassy 
mound  on  which  that  Persian  king^at,  ready  to 
rejoice  in  the  defeat  of  the  Greeks  and  the  suc- 
cess of  the  Persians.  Fancy  now  pictures  that 
foreign  fleet  ^f  fifteen  hundred  galleys  crowded 
with  men  from  more  than  fifty  nations.  How 
striking  their  armor  and  costume  !  There  are 
Persians  clad  in  tiaras,  tunics,  and  trousers^ 
thickly  set  with  scales  of  iron,  having  in  hand 
glistening  spears  and  daggers ;  Assyrians,  with 
hehuets  and  steel-headed  clubs  ;  Scythians,  with 
weapons  of  iron  and  stone ;  Indians,  arrayed 
in  cotton,  ^having  bows  mrd  arrows  of  cane ; 
Ethiopians,. with  bodies  painted,  and  only  half 
covered  with  the  skins  of  lions  and  leopards ; 
Thracians,  attired  in  bushy  fox-skins,  and  armed 
with  long-bladed  spfars  tipped  with  poison. 

The  morning  was 'fair,  and  out  from  behind 
the  island  of  Salamis  sailed  the  humble  fleet  of 
Themistocles  consisting  of  only  five  hundred 
small  galleys.  The  fleets  came  in  contact; 
spears  flashed ;  blades  rattled ;  and  men  fell. 
Xerxes  sat  on  his  elevated  throne  sure  of  vic- 
tory. High  noon  came  and  the  Greeks  had 
held  their  own.  As  the  sun  dipped  to  the 
west,  Persian  ships  were  sinking,  Persian  ships 


GREECE   AND   ATHENS.  273 

were  fleeing,  and  as  the  stars  shone  out,  Xerxes 
was  a  conquered  king ;  his  army  was  routed  and 
disgraced  ;  victory  was  shouted  for  the  Greeks, 
and  Themistocles  was  crowned  with  lasting 
glory. 

Leaving  our  steamer  we  are  conveyed  in 
small  boats  to  the  shore.  No  sooilfer  are  we  on 
land  than  we  are  beset  with  hackmen  who  sput- 
ter out  the  modern  Greek  so  fast,  it  becomes 
almost  a  question  whether  they  can  understand 
themselves.  They  lay  special  stress  upon 
drachmas  and  numerals.  They  commence  bid- 
ding on  a  high  key  and  at  high  rates,  but  they 
keep  dropping  in  price,  while  we  keep  silenf, 
till  we  begin  to  think  they  will  give  us  some- 
thing to  ride  with  them  to  Athens,  a  distance  of 
five  miles ;  but  as  one  ofiers  to  carry  us  for  a 
shillijjig  apiece,  stepping  into  his  hack  we  are 
at  once  roUino:  throuo^h  the  streets  of  Piraeus. 
This  modern  village  impresses  a  stranger  favor- 
ably. The  place  shows  signs  of  considerable 
enterprise. 

Our  hackman  does  not  drive  so  fast  as  to 
make  us  feel  that  he  is  in  great  haste  for  his 
fee.  But  we  have  no  disposition  to  find  fault 
with  the  rate  of  speed.  We  are  crossing  the 
Attic  Plain.  Every  foot  of  ground  is  classic. 
Upon  the  right  we  see  now  and  then  remnants 


274      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

of  the  ancient  walls  which  used  to  extend  from 
Athens  to  the  Saronic  Gulf.  It  is  marvellous, 
how  the  fingers  of  Time  will  pick  away  solid 
rock.  Soon  we  are  in  the  midst  of  autumn 
fields  of  grain  and  grass  and  groves  of  olives. 
As  we  reach  the  half-way  house  which  is  a  sort 
of  tavern,  our  driver  comes  to  a  dead  halt,  and 
out  rushes  a  Greek  boy  with  bottle  and  glass 
in  hand  planting  himself  directly  in  front  of  us  ; 
filling  a  glass  with  wine  he  passes  it  to  us,  but  his 
dark  eye  flashes  with  astonishment,  as  we  refuse 
to  drink.  After  ur<;inor  in  vain,  he  turns  to  the 
driver,  giving  him  his  share  and  ours  too,  and 
then  turns  back,  asking  us  to  foot  the  bill.  As 
we  move  on,  the  wine,  or  something  else,  has 
given  renewed  force  to  the  whip,  and  increased 
velocity  to  our  carraige. 

The  marble  relics  of  the  Acropolis  now 
appear  as  though  they  hung  in  the  air.  All 
conspires  to  make  us  feel,  we  are  in  a  land 
where  poets,  artists,  philosophers,  and  schol- 
ars, have  been  born  and  have  died.  The  fairy 
plain,  the  shady  hills,  the  white-crested  moun- 
tains, and  the  deep  azure  sky,  fill  the  mind  with 
inexpressible  delight !  Almost  too  soon  we  are 
riding  through  the  city  of  Athens. 

The  new  city  is  to  the  north  of  the  old,  and, 
therefore,  to  the  north  of  the  Acropolis.     We 


GREECE   AND   ATHENS.  275 

count  less  than  sixty  years  since  this  city  was 
commenced.  It  has  a  population  of  some  fifty 
thousand.  Its  extent  north  and  south  is  two 
miles,  and  a  mile  east  and  west.  It  is  a  fine 
city  for  the  East.  Coming  from  Turkish  towns 
it  seems  almost  an  elysium.  The  buildings  are 
not  grand  or  imposing,  but  they  bear  marks  of 
Grecian  taste  and  style.  There  are  no  flat  roofs 
here  as  in  Cairo,  Jerusalem,  or  Constantinople. 
The  houses  are  built  of  stone  and  most  of  them 
are  two  stories  high.  The  main  streets  are 
Hermes  and  ^olus,  adorned  with  the  papyrae- 
tree  Avhich  resembles  the  weeping  willow  in 
form,  but  is  an  evergreen,  very  graceful  and 
fragrant.  On  these  streets  are  several  first- 
class  hotels  which  will  compare  favorably  with 
the  best  in  our  country.  The  churches  are 
constructed  of  variegated  marbles,  not  massive 
but  unique.  The  palace  which  stands  on  rising 
ground  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city,  quite 
under  the  shadows  of  Lycabettus  and  Hymettus, 
makes  a  fine  appearance.  The  gardens  about  it 
are  extensive  and  tastefully  laid  out.  It  was 
somewhere  here  that  trees  thrived,  and  Aris- 
totle was  wont  to  walk  and  deliver  at  the 
same  time  his  dissertations  to  his  disciples. 
"We  would  naturally  infer  that  King  George 
with  his  queenly  consort  might  be  happy,  dwell- 


276      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

ing  where  nature  smiles  so  jDropitiously,  aud 
associations  are  so  su<?"jestive  of  wisdom  and 
learning. 

The  University  outwardly  is  conspicuous  and 
attractive  on  account  of  its  proportions  and 
harmony.  As  we  examine  it  internally,  we 
find  it  stands  for  substance  and  not  mere 
show.  Surely  it  is  a  bright  light  in  this  new 
city. 

To  the  south  of  the  modem,  we  can  here  and 
there  discover  remnants  of  the  walls  of  the  old 
city  which  encircled  the  Acropolis,  and  ex- 
tended down  to  the  sea.  But  the  new  city 
shows  wisdom  in  not  girdling  itself  with  stone 
and  mortar  piled  up  like  a  huge  prison,  shutting 
out  the  free  air  and  light,  and  shutting  in  im- 
purities and  death. 

We  find  the  people  generally  intelligent, 
ambitious,  slightly  self-conceited,  living  more 
on  the  past  than  the  present,  or  future.  Their 
leading  idea  seems  to  be  to  obtain  an  education, 
and  this  in  their  opinion  consists  in  possessing 
a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  Greek  language. 
Even  among  the  poorest  classes  Greek  grammar 
is  sure  to  come  before  work.  So  education  in 
this  city  is  universal.  All  the  children  from 
six  to  sixteen  years  old  are  in  their  schools. 
So  little  urchins  in  rags,  and  youths  without 


GREECE   AND   ATHENS.  277 

shoes  to  their  feet,  and  in  many  instances  with- 
out garments  to  their  backs,  are  bound  to  have 
an  education,  as  well  as  the  children  of  the 
belter  classes.  The  sexes  are  not  educated 
together;  the  laws  of  the  country  will  not 
allow  of  this.  The  girls  advance  from  the 
primary  school  to  the  normal.  Probably,  there 
is  no  other  city  on  the  eastern  continent,  where 
woman  is  so  highly  educated,  as  in  Athens. 
As  we  meet  some  of  the  young  women  on  the 
street,  or  in  the  school-room,  who  read  Homer 
and  Xenophon  with  the  sweetest  intonation  and 
euphonic  rhythm,  we  are  ready  to  admit  they 
would  furnish  to  modern  Phidiases  fit  subjects 
for  modern  Minervas  and  Venuses. 

The  boys  go  from  the  primary  school  to  the 
gymnasium,  and  from  the  latter  to  the  Univer- 
sity. The  University  is  flourishing ;  its  students 
number  more  than  sixteen  hundred.  These 
come  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  and  are 
really  young  men.  They  look  as  though  they 
miijht  have  a  oood  deal  of  the  old  Athenian  and 
Spartan  blood  coursing  their  veins.  Many  of 
them  would  make  fine  models  for  an  Apollo 
or  a  Jupiter.  This  institution  has  a  medical, 
legal,  theological,  and  philosophical,  depart- 
ment. The  instruction  is  given  in  lectures. 
The  professors  are  masters  of  what  they  teach. 


278      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

They  love  their  vocation.  As  we  listen  to  a 
professor  while  he  discourses  upon  the  life  and 
works  of  Xeuophon,  to  another  while  he  treats 
upon  Homer's  Iliad,  to  another  as  he  discusses 
hydrostatics,  and  to  another  while  he  expounds 
the  law,  though  we  cannot  understand  all  they 
say,  still  we  really  enjoy  the  lectures,  the 
speakers  are  so  animated,  their  tones  are  so 
musical,  and  the  students  are  so  enthusiastic 
and  intently  devoted  to  taking  notes.  Fre- 
quently some  clear  statement,  or  impassioned 
strain  of  eloquence,  will  take  the  scholars  right 
off  their  seats.  They  read  Homer,  Socrates, 
Plato,  and  Thucydides,  as  we  read  Whittier, 
Longfellow,  and  Bancroft.  The  modem  Athe- 
nians are  emulating  the  spirit  of  their  ancestors. 
They  are  rapidly  gaining  in  influence.  They 
are  sending  out  many  teachers  and  physicians, 
not  only  into  the  rural  districts  of  their  own 
country,  but  into  Turkey,  Asia  Minor,  and  Per- 
sia. Athens  may  justly  be  said  to  produce  the 
best  physicians  and  female  teachers  found  in 
Oriental  towns  or  cities. 

If  we  step  into  the  House  of  Parliament,  we 
find  an  assembly  of  men  similar  to  our  legisla- 
tive bodies.  Most  of  the  members  are  dressed 
in  the  European  costume  ;  a  few  from  the  High- 
land districts  still  hold  to  the  ancient  style  of 


GREECE    AND   ATHENS.  279 

dress.  These  are  attired  in  the  white  frock  and 
trousers,  girdled  with  the  red  sash,  and  the 
black  tunic  loosely  falling  from  the  shoulders. 
They  look  airy,  stylish,  and  comfortable.  The 
assembly,  as  a  body,  is  orderly  and  dignified. 
Some  of  the  members  exhibit  striking  talent 
and  eloquence.  At  times  exciting  and  patriotic 
speeches  are  made.  Turkey  is  the  bane  of 
Greece,  and  were  the  latter  rich,  Turkey  in 
Europe  would  soon  be  driven  the  other  side  of 
the  Bosphorus,  and  Crete  would  be  set  free. 

The  scenery  about  Athens  is  exceedingly 
varied.  It  possesses  the  elements  of  beauty, 
grandeur,  and  picturesqueness.  Its  plains  of 
smiling  fields  and  shady  olive-trees,  constantly 
guarded  by  sea  and  land,  present  a  picture 
which  attracts  the  eye  and  pleases  the  taste.  It 
is  really  just  the  place  in  which  to  grow  men  of 
ability  and  genius.  What  a  long  line  of  noble 
characters  originated  here,— Thucydides,  Xeno- 
phon,  Pericles,  Isocrates,  Demosthenes,  Sopho- 
cles, JEschylus,  Longinus,  oh !  we  cannot  recall 
half  of  the  names  of  the  famous  ones  who 
opened  their  eyes  amidst  this  profusion  of 
nature's  charms  !  Here,  too,  they  became  stu- 
dents of  nature  and  philosophy,  adding  count- 
less attractions  to  their  nativity. 

A  wide  belt  of  olive-trees  almost  encircles 


280      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

the  city.  Somewhere  among  these,  it  cannot 
be  decided  just  where,  Plato  had  his  academy. 
Here  he  was  teaching,  when  he  defined  man  as 
"  a  two-legged  animal  with  his  feathers  picked 
off" ;  and  Diogenes  catching  a  cock  and  strip- 
ping him  of  his  feathers,  threw  him  into  Plato's 
school,  saying,  "  See  Plato's  man." 

It  is  afternoon.  The  lono:  shadows  he^rm 
to  fall.  The  air  is  clear  as  a  diamond  of  the 
first  water.  It  is  a  fit  time  to  climb  the  steep 
rocky  sides  of  Lycabettus  and  enjoy  a  sunset 
scene  in  this  classic  land.  Lycabettus  bears 
about  the  same  relation  to  Athens,  Vesuvius 
does  to  Naples  ;  or  Arthur  s  Seat,  to  Edinburgh. 
As  the  summit  is  reached,  we  find  we  have  been 
climbing  with  our  might  for  an  hour ;  but  the 
first  sweep  of  the  eye  more  than  compensates 
for  all  the  toilins:  and  sweatinor.  Xhe  broadest 
sheet  of  clearest  light  illuminates  land  and  sky. 
To  the  west  lofty  Cyllene  and  Taygetus  cast 
their  deep  shadows  into  the  valleys  and  plains  ; 
to  the  north  the  wooded  sides  and  white-crested 
tops  of  Parnes  are  burnished  with  emerald 
and  tipped  with  silver;  to  the  east  the  rosy 
pyramid  of  Pentelicus  and  the  violet  and 
heather-sided  Hymettus,  give  us  their  warmest 
greeting.  All  around  are  spread  out  the  plains 
of  Athens,   not   far   reaching  but  beautiful  in 


GREECE  AND  ATHENS.         281 

outline  and  every  feature.  Sunlight  and  shadow 
are  kissing  the  trembling  waves  of  the  Saronic 
Gulf.  The  green  waters  of  the  ^gean  Sea 
sparkle  and  glow.  The  marble  columns  and 
high-piled  ruins  of  the  Acropolis  like  fairy  lace- 
work,  hang  in  the  air.  The  city  and  the  fields 
around  seem  to  be  bathing  in  a  lake  of  light  and 
glory,  wrapping  themselves  in  flaming  gold  and 
mellowest  shades.  At  length  the  sun  falls 
behind  the  Delphian  cliffs,  dropping  deepest 
shadows  upon  all  below,  while  the  pinnacles  of 
the  mountains,  the  minarets  of  nature's  temple, 
blaze  for  a  little,  and  then  send  out  the  voice, 
day  is  gone,  twilight  has  come  ;  and  in  the  still 
quiet  rest  of  parting  day,  one  star  after  another 
looks  down  through  these  Grecian  skies,  till  the 
whole  azure  is  all  aglow.  Ah,  these  are  the 
same  lights  of  God  that  smiled  when  Homer 
sung  and  Plato  taught  and  Phidias  carved ! 
Nature  here  weays  the  investiture  of  Idngly 
honors,  woven  from  the  beauties  of  nature  and 
dyed  in  the  wonderful  reflections  of  heaven. 
The  task  of  climbing  is  compensated  a  thousand- 
fold by  the  joy  of  seeing. 

Attica  is  not  extensive  in  area,  its  greatest 
length  being  fifty,  and  breadth  thirty  miles. 
Still  all  civilized  lands  are  breathed  upon  by 
Attica.     Its  influence  touches  the  best  thoughts 


282      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

and  words  of  men,  and  ever  will.  It  quickens 
the  inspiration  of  the  poet,  the  orator,  and 
schohir.  It  is  the  parent  of  the  most  beautiful 
creations  of  art.  The  painter  and  sculptor  of 
every  nation  have  inherited  from  Attica.  The 
galleries  of  princes  and  nations  tell  of  Attica. 
The  temples  and  council  chambers  of  capital 
cities  bespeak  the  praises  of  Attica.  In  the 
providence  of  God  when  Christianity  came,  the 
city  of  Minerva  alone  was  prepared  to  picture 
in  perfect  language  the  beauties  of  the  Eternal 
City. 

We  will  now  take  a  walk  of  ten  miles 
across  the  Attic  Plain  northeast  from  Athens 
to  Mount  Pentelicus.  Our  way  leads  among 
fields  of  wheat  and  groves  of  olives  and  oaks. 
We  .pass  through  the  villages  in  which  Pericles, 
Aristides,  Plato,  and  Socrates,  lived.  There  is 
nothing  attractive  in  them  now  but  association 
and  suggestions  of  the  past.  We  are  here 
reminded  of  the  reply  of  Diogenes  to  Plato 
who  sent  the  cynic  a  large  cluster  of  grapes, 
when  a  request  was  made  for  only  three. 
On  receiving  them  Diogenes  said,  "Just  like 
some  philosophers,  you  ask  them  a  question 
which  could  be  answered  by  three  words,  and 
they  will  give  you  a  thousand." 

Occasionally  we  see  peasants  ploughing  in 


GREECE   AND   ATHENS.  283 

their  wheat  which  has  just  been  sown.  Seeing 
their  farming  utensils,  we  would  not  judge,  we 
were  treading  classic  soil.  We  are  surprised 
at  the  number  of  old  people  we  observe  by  the 
roadside  and  in  the  hamlets.  We  are  reminded 
of  Theophrastus  and  Georgius  who  seemed 
to  be  in  their  prime,  when  about  a  hundred 
years  old.  Ah  !  there  is  something  about  this 
Grecian  air  which  is  favorable  to  health  and 
longevity.  In  the  House  of  Parliament  we  saw 
several  very  aged  members.  Some  of  their 
teachers  in  their  schools  must  have  experienced 
more  than  threescore  and  ten  summers  and 
winters.  While  walking  at  a  rapid  pace,  we 
do  not  become  weary,  as  we  would  in  France 
or  Holland.  Now  when  we  have  reached  the 
base  of  the  mountain,  we  feel  just  prepared  for 
a  climb  of  three  miles  to  the  height  of  three 
and  a  half  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  Here 
we  enter  a  monastery  and  inquire  of  the  monks 
the  best  Avay  to  the  top  of  Pentelicus.  We  find 
them  pleasant  and  cordial.  One  of  them  oflfers 
to  accompany  us  to  the  summit  free  of  charge, 
but  we  choose  to  be  our  own  guide.  Here  it 
becomes  us  to  say,  we  feel  very  different 
towards  the  monks  of  the  Greek  and  Roman 
churches  from  what  we  did,  before  we  had 
any  acquaintance  with  them.     We  are  forced 


284      AFTER-TnOUGHTS    OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

in  spite  of  former  prejudices  to  acknowledge 
that  the  majority  of  them  are  earnest  and  de- 
voted Christians.  In  the  past  we  have  known 
more  of  their  faults  than  of  their  virtues. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  it  is  like  summer, 
even  now  that  the  sun  at  noonday  is  touching 
the  lowest  point  in  his  annual  course.  The 
oaks,  lindens,  and  osiers,  have  scarcely  let  fall 
a  leaf  from  their  boughs.  The  acorns  still  hold 
fast  to  their  cups,  and  the  locust  pods  dangle 
on  the  limbs.  The  birds  are  thick  and  merry. 
When  half-way  up  the  mountain,  it  is  like 
spring.  The  heather  is  in  full  bloom,  nearly 
covering  the  surface,  while  it  is  as  completely 
covered  with  honey  bees.  The  air  is  tinged 
with  purple  hues  and  filled  with  humming 
music. 

Here  we  come  to  the  two  great  marble  quar- 
ries. The  larger  one  is  open  to  the  light.  Its 
perpendicular  walls  are  immense.  At  its  base 
and  on  one  side,  is  a  wide  cavern  hung  and  set 
with  stalactites  and  stalagmites  of  marble  and 
alabaster,  tinged  with  a  variety  of  hues.  The 
mouth  of  the  grotto  is  fringed  with  ivy  and 
heather.  This  marble  resembles  that  of  Paros 
in  whiteness,  surpassing  it  in  fineness,  and 
eclipses  the  Carraran  in  lustre  and  purity  of 
color. 


GREECE   AND    4THENS.  285 

About  twenty-two  hundred  and  ninety  years 
ago  this  quarry,  which  is  now  as  silent  as  death, 
resounded  with  the  din  of  hammers  and  the 
creaking  of  cordage  and  pulleys,  as  huge  blocks 
were  lifted  from  their  massive  beds. 

We  cannot  help  looking  upon  the  spots,  where 
great  men  were  born,  with  feelings  of  respect 
and  love.  So  the  old  homes  of  Burns,  Scott, 
Washington,  Schiller,  and  Humboldt,  are  ob- 
jects of  admiration.  We  are  willing  to  journey 
far  away  to  see  a  philosopher,  or  to  look  upon 
a  poet,  or  to  be  greeted  by  a  saint ;  and  how 
can  we  stand  in  this  silent  quarry,  the  birth- 
place of  so  many  grand  structures  and  beauti- 
ful statues,  without  feelings  of  veneration  ?  He 
must  be  emotionless,  who  could  look  upon 
this  vast  chamber,  so  suggestive  of  immortal 
fabrics,  without  enthusiasm  and  profoundest 
gratitude. 

On  the  summit  of  Pentelicus,  we  experience 
a  winter  climate  without  any  snow.  The  air  is 
sharp  and  bracing.  It  is  marvellous  how  far 
the  eye  can  reach.  Almost  the  whole  of  Greece 
can  be  surveyed  from  this  point.  Our  vision 
ranges  over  plains,  hills,  rivers,  bays,  straits, 
seas,  and  mountains,  whose  names  are  immortal 
in  song  and  history. 

The  physical   character  of  this   country    is 


286      AFTER-THOUGHTS  OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

strangely  diversified.  The  elements  spread  out 
before  the  eye,  combine  to  ofler  every  conceiv- 
able variety  of  landscape  views.  The  moun- 
tains are  numerous  and  lofty  in  proportion  to 
the  extent  of  surface.  Their  crests  of  marble 
and  snow,  their  sides  belted  with  grass  and 
herbage,  present  in  the  sunlight  the  pictures  of 
interchanging  silver,  emerald  and  amethyst. 

To  the  westward  rise  up  eight  thousand  feet 
Arcadian  Cyllene,  and  Parnassus  so  long  be- 
lieved to  be  the  home  of  the  muses.  To  the 
north  the  classic  peaks  of  Ossa  and  Pelion 
tower  high,  and  still  higher  is  giant  Olympus 
which  once  rocked  the  gods  in  his  snowy  cradle. 
It  is  impossible  to  represent  fully  the  enchanting 
beauty  and  grandeur  of  these  mountains.  It  is 
not  strange  this  air,  this  climate,  this  diversified 
scenery,  should  have  resulted  in  bringing  forth, 
exhilarating,  and  exalting  an  intellectual  and 
sesthetic  race. 

At  the  foot  of  Pentelicus  to  the  north  and 
east,  lies  in  calmest  silence  along  the  seashore 
the  plain  of  Marathon.  With  our  glass  we  can 
easily  trace  its  surface  of  six  miles  long  and 
two  wide.  It  is  completely  shut  in  by  moun- 
tains and  sea.  Can  it  be,  that  is  the  plain  on 
which  four  hundred  and  ninety  years  before 
Christ  the  ten  thousand  Greeks  met  in  deadly 


GREECE   AKD  ATHENS.  287 

conflict  the  hundred  thousand  Persians?  That 
was  a  terrible  strusrcrle ;  the  few  a2:aiust  the 
many,  the  right  against  the  wrong.  The  Per- 
sians were  routed  and  driven  to  their  ships, 
leaving  six  thousand  dead,  while  the  Athenians 
lost  less  than  two  hundred  men.  Miltiades  and 
Callimachus  won  lasting  glory ;  Datis  and  Arta- 
phemes  experienced  lasting  shame.  AIL  that 
now  remains  on  that  renowned  field  to  tell  of 
Grecian  valor  and  Persian  cowardice,  is  the 
little  mound  marking  the  spot  where  the 
Athenian  dead  were  tenderly  buried.  Yes,  it 
was  on  that  mound  that  Pericles  stood  not  long 
after  the  brave  heroes  had  fallen  and  pronounced 
eloquent  eulogies  upon  their  life  and  memory. 
He  pointed  out  the  virtues  and  merits  of  the 
fallen,  showing  that  they  should  be  held  in 
everlasting  remembrance.  "  Emulous  of  men 
like  these,"  he  said,  turning  to  the  Athenians, 
"  do  you  also,  placing  your  happiness  in  liberty, 
and  your  liberty  in  courage,  shrink  from  no 
warlike  dangers  in  defence  of  your  country." 

We  can  but  admire  the  ancient  Grecian  char- 
acter. It  is  so  simple  and  true  to  nature.  They 
felt  as  we  feel  in  our  normal  state.  They 
wrote  perfect  poems,  essays,  and  speeches ; 
they  produced  perfect  vases,  statues,  and  tem- 
ples.    They  wrought  as  we  now  work ;  they  do 


288      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

not  seem  to  be  twenty-five  centuries  off,  but 
close  by  our  side,  as  we  take  in  tlieir  thought 
and  work.  They  were  wont  to  cast  bouquets  at 
the  feet  of  their  statesmen,  and  decorate  the 
graves  of  their  patriots  with  flowers.  The 
thoughts  that  stirred  the  souls  of  Plato,  Phidias, 
and  Solon,  thrill  souls  still.  It  matters  little 
when  and  where  we  live,  if  we  are  only  true  to 
highest  conditions  and  opportunities;  for  then 
we  shall  be  like  the  royally  true  everywhere. 

Let  us  now  return  to  the  city  and  survey  the 
site  of  ancient  Athens.  As  we  take  our  posi- 
tion upon  the  Acropolis,  in  fancy  we  see  the 
old  city  proudly  embracing  this  rocky  height 
which  was  crowned  with  the  completest  works 
of  art  and  beauty,  as  an  altar  where  the  immor- 
tals delighted  to  dwell.  Here  the  Athenian 
might  stand  on  this  platform  of  solid  rock  three 
hundred  feet  high,  one  thousand  feet  long,  and 
live  hundred  feet  wide,  and  survey  his  father- 
land. Yonder  to  the  south  and  west  lay  the 
harbors  of  his  city,  thronged  with  ships  from 
all  parts  of  the  world.  A  short  distance  to  the 
east  flowed  the  sacred  Ilissus,  and  to  the  west, 
the  famous  river  Cephisus.  Well  might  the 
Athenian  then  be  proud  of  his  inheritance  of 
thrilling  memories,  of  valorous  deeds,  of  inimi- 
table arts,  of  unequalled  landscape  pictures. 


GREECE  AND  ATHENS.  289 

As  we  tarry  in  this  city  of  Themistocles  and 
Phidias,  Cimon  and  Miltiades,  we  can  scarcely 
be  too  grateful  to  the  mother  of  many  of  our  arts 
and  sciences.  She  bequeathed  them  to  Rome 
and  to  England  and  to  America.  Really  we 
have  no  beautiful  work  of  art,  no  finish  of 
church,  or  hall,  but  that  points  to  some  relic 
scattered  about  the  Acropolis.  We  are  made 
to  realize,  as  we  look  and  think,  that  this  is 
the  ideal  country  of  art,  genius,  poetry,  and 
romance.  Here  voices  speak,  telling  us  as  no- 
where else,  how  Plato  mused,  Socrates  taught, 
Pericles  ruled,  Aristides  won  virtue,  ^schylus 
called  fortli  tears,  Euripides  melted  hearts, 
Phidias  carved,  and  Demosthenes  spellbound 
the  passions  and  set  on  fire  the  genius  of  his 
countrymen.  At  every  step  we  touch  some 
'memorial  of  the  past.  How  enchanting  must 
have  been  the  city,  whose  relics  are  now  strewn 
about  us,  when  it  rose  up  in  its  perfectness  with 
its  gleamings  of  marble  and  ,glistenings  of  pre- 
cious metals,  kissing  the  balmy  air  and  clear 
sunlight  of  these  Grecian  skies !  Ancient 
Athens  will  live  forever  and  remain  young 
and  beautiful  in  the  imagination  of  the  scholar 
and  the  poet.  Her  Acropolis  shall  be  the 
proudest  pedestal  crowned  with  the  most  per- 
fect statues  of  cultured  genius. 


290      AFTER-TnOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

The  summit  of  this  hill  can  be  approached 
only  from  the  west.  The  gateway  which  the 
Greeks  called  Propyluea,  is  inviting  as  well 
as  imposing.  Its  stones  are  immense  and  the 
workmanship  unique.  It  was  intended  to  be 
for  a  defence  and  a  monument  of  beauty.  It 
was  all  this.  The  Athenians  were  delighted 
with  it,  and  national  foes  tried  to  imitate  it. 
It  had  five  openings  through  which  the  periodic 
throngs  of  jubilant  Pantheists  were  wont  to 
move.  The  grooves  of  the  chariot  wheels  are 
still  visible  on  the  entrance  floor.  These  stones 
have  been  worn  by  the  tread  of  the  most  gifted 
sons  of  Athens.  A  trifle  within  the  Propylaea 
is  the  restored  temple  of  the  Wingless  Victory. 
Pausanias  informs  us  that  he  gave  no  wings  to 
Victory,  because  the  Athenians  would  not  allow 
her  to  fly  from  their  city. 

Near  the  centre  of  this  elevation  and  in  the 
most  prominent  place,  stands  what  remains  of 
the  Parthenon,  — .that  temple  of  all  temples, 
ordered  by  Pericles,  built  by  Ictinus,  and 
adorned  by  Phidias.  Its  grand  columns,  its 
vast  blocks  of  marble,  its  fragments  of  statues 
and  relievos,  indicate  that  it  was  once  a  per- 
fect building.  Simplicity  and  majesty  of  mass 
and  proportion  were  its  striking  characteristics. 
The  eye  is  fascinated  even  in  studying  the  out- 


GREECE   AKD  ATHENS.  291 

lines  of  its  ruins.  If  it  has  been  mutilated  by 
Venetian  bombs,  by  the  mines  of  Morosini, 
by  the  hammer  of  Theodore,  by  the  artillery  of 
Turk  and  Greek;  if  hosts  of  its  statues  and 
treasures  have  been  captured  by  Lord  Elgin 
and  King  Ludwig,  and  borne  away  to  Rome, 
Munich,  Paris,  and  London,  yet  plenty  remains 
to  assure  the  inspector  that  in  its  completeness, 
it  was  a  perfect  poem  cut  in  stone ;  that  it 
was  a  monument  of  petrified  light,  reflecting 
the  genius  and  art  of  a  refined  people.  What 
an  advanced  civilization  that  could  produce  a 
Pericles  to  order,  a  Phidias  to  design,  an  Ictinus 
to  execute,  numerous  sculptors  to  decorate,  large 
means  to  defray  expenses,  and  minds  to  admire 
and  appreciate  such  a  temple  !  When  will  an- 
other such  edifice  be  built  ?  Not  while  Gothic 
architecture  holds  the  sway.  The  Gothic  is 
sombre  and  beautiful,  but  the  Greek  is  full  of 
order  and  light,  —  heaven's  first  and  last  factors 
of  perfect  creations  ! 

The  Parthenon  was  constructed  entirely  of 
Pentelican  marble.  It  was  surrounded  by  a 
peristyle  of  forty-six  columns ;  each  column 
was  over  six  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base  and 
nearly  thirty-six  high.  At  each  end  of  the 
temple  stood  a  portico  of  six  columns.  The 
edifice  was  two  hundred  and  twenty-eight  feet 


292      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

in  length ;  one  hundred  feet  in  breadth ;  and 
forty-seven  feet  in  height. 

To  the  north  of  the  Parthenon  are  the  re- 
mains of  the  Erechtheum,  a  beautiful  lonio 
temple.  Some  of  its  adornments  are  well  pre- 
served, showing  that  it  was  deserving  a  place 
near  the  temple  of  Minerva. 

There  are  ^foundations  and  relics  of  other 
temples  and  monuments  which  once  graced  this 
height.  Looking  over  the  wall  to  the  south, 
almost  under  us,  we  discover  the  ruins  of  the 
Odeum  of  Atticus  Herodes  which  was  built  in 
honor  of  his  wife  Reo^illa,  that  sonars  mii]:ht  be 
sun":  to  deli^^ht  the  Athenians.  To  the  east  of 
this  are  some  of  the  marble  seats,  still  visible, 
of  the  f)ionysiac  Theatre  wiiere  t^e  elite  of  Ath- 
ens were  wont  to  listen  to  the  plays  and  trage- 
dies of  ^schylus,  Sophocles,  and  Euripides. 

Still  farther  to  the  east  and  at  the  foot  of  the 
Acropolis,  we  see  the  unique  memorial  of  Lysic- 
rates,  known  as  the  Lantern  of  Demosthenes. 
A  hundred  rods  farther  east,  we  observe  the 
arch  of  Hadrian  which  opens  to  the  Olympieum 
which  was  once  the  superb  temple  of  Jupiter. 
The  thirteen  columns  of  Corinthian  style  now 
standing,  out  of  the  hundred  and  twenty-four, 
give  evidence  that  it  mu^t  have  been  grand,  in- 
deed. 


'  GREECE   AND  ATHENS.  293 

To  the  west  from  the  Acropolis,  not  far  off, 
do  we  see  the  best  preserved  work  of  antiquity 
in  Athens,  —  the  temple  of  Theseus.  The  build- 
ing is  now  quite  complete.  Its  style  and  archi- 
tecture are  modelled  after  the  Parthenon.  In 
it  are  preserved  some  of  the  fragments  of  the 
statuary  which  adorned  the  old  city.  But 
among  the  whole  collection  there  is  not  an  en- 
tire statue,  or  piece  of  art"  work.  The  better 
specimens,  or  complete  productions,  saved  from 
the  ravages  of  war,  or  dug  from  the  ruins,  have 
all  been  shipped  to  foreign  cities,  so  that  modern 
Athens  must  go  abroad  to  witness  the  best 
works  extant  of  its  ancient  city. 

*  Turning  the  eye  across  the  Agora,  which  is 
the  valley  leading  to  the  Propyloea,  is  tbf>  Pnyx 
Hill.  Its  front  is  somewhat  abrupt  and  por- 
tions of  its  ledges  are  cut  away  so  as  to  form 
steps,  seats,  and  a  bema.  Here  the  multitudes 
used  to  assemble,  to  listen  to  the  eloquence  of 
Grecian  orators.  From  that  stony  platform 
Demosthenes  delivered  his  speeches  which 
thrilled  and  delighted  the  gathered  hosts.  Can 
it  be  that  the  living  orator  even  dreamed  that, 
as  his  smooth  tones  fell  upon  listening  ears,  his 
words  would  descend  through  the  ages  to  stim- 
ulate youthful  declaimers  with  patriotic  ambi- 
tion, and  gratify  the  profoundest  minds? 


294      AFTER-THOUGnTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

A  little  way  to  the  south  of  the  Pnyx,  in  the 
solid  stone  of  the  Museum  Hill,  is  the  prison  of 
Socrates.  From  the  top  of  the  ledge  an  open- 
ing was  cut,  and  deep  down  in  the  rock  three 
cells  were  hewn  out ;  in  one  of  these  the  great 
philosopher  was  confined  on  account  of  his  free 
thought  and  free  expression  ;  but  he  was  honest 
and  his  philosophy  was  dearer  to  him  than  his 
life.  He  was  ready  to  suffer  at  the  hands  of 
sophists,  because  he  believed  in  the  dural)ility 
of  justice,  the  instability  of  wickedness,  the 
happiness  of  virtue,  and  the  punishment  of 
sin.  No  wonder  the  passionate  Alcibiades 
should  say,  "When  I  listen  to  Socrates  my 
heart  leaps,  and  tears  rush  to  my  eyes.  I 
have  heard  Pericles  and  other  able  orators, 
but  they  do  not  move  me  like  this  Marsyas. 
Within  he  is  full  of  earnestness  and  the 
sweetest  virtue."  It  is  not  singular  that  such 
a  one  should  endure,  when  passion  raged  and 
Pantheistic  force  locked  him  in  prison  walls. 
His  firmness  to  the  right  enabled  him  without 
flinching  to  drink  the  deadly  hemlock,  and  then 
resignedly  lay  himself  on  his  pallet  of  straw  to 
die.  As  we  witness  in  imagination  the  noble 
man  departing  this  life,  that  gloomy  prison 
becomes  lighted  up  with  a  halo  of  glory,  and 
the  dying  Socrates  becomes  the  greatest  hero 


GREECE    AND   ATHENS.  295 

of  all  Greece,  and  the  wisest  philosopher  of 
old  Athens. 

Once  more  look  down  just  below  us,  only  a 
short  distance  to  the  right  of  the  Propylaea  upon 
that  pile  of  ledges  shaped  by  the  hand  of  nature, 
save  the  stairs  which  are  cut  into  the  rock,  lead- 
ing from  the  Agora  to  the  summit.  That  is 
Areopagus,  or  Mars  Hill,  where  the  Greek 
Tribunal  used  to  be  held.  That  is  really  a 
sacred  relic  of  ancient  Athens.  Around  and 
upon  those  rocks  the  highest  councils  have 
assembled,  the  gravest  charges  been  given, 
and  the  severest  judgments  been  passed.  Up 
those  time-worn  steps  centuries  after  Socrates 
had  been  led  as  a  prisoner,  the  Apostle  Paul 
walked  as  one  arraio^ned  before  the  highest 
dignitaries.  Before  Stoic  and  Epicurean  phi- 
losophers, and  the  most  learned  men  of  Greece, 
he  delivered  a  bold,  searching,  and  eloquent 
address.  Then  Athens  was  in  her  glory.  The 
Acropolis  was  rife  in  beauty  and  magnificence. 
As  Paul  looked  upon  those  altars  and  temples 
around  him,  consecrated  to  false  worship,  and 
as  he  recalled  the  inscription,  "  To  the  unknown 
God,"  what  spiritual  language  fell  from  his  lips  ! 
His  words  moved  hearts  there,  as  they  never 
had  been  moved  before.  His  logic  seemed 
more  potent  than  that  of  the  wisest  sophists, 


296      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

his  eloquence,  more  searching  than  that  of  Peri- 
cles, and  his  philosophy,  deeper  than  that  of 
Plato. 

The  glory  of  old  Athens  has  faded  and  greatly 
wasted  under  the  ravages  of  time.  The  wisdom 
of  Greece  has  grown  dim,  as  it  has  travelled 
down  through  the  centuries,  but  the  glory  of 
Paul  blazes  as  never  before.  While  the  doc- 
trines of  the  Stoics  and  Epicureans  have  waned, 
the  teachings  of  the  Apostle  have  waxed  strong. 
While  through  nature,  history,  and  relics,  we 
are  led  to  admire  old  Athens,  through  Paul  we 
are  induced  to  adore  the  city  of  our  God.  Let 
us  rejoice  that  we  can  look  back  to  Socrates,  as 
the  grandest  hero  of  classic  Athens,  and  to  Paul, 
as  the  glorified  saint  of  Attica. 


XI. 

LOWER  EGYPT  AND  CAIRO. 

'TXT'E  took  passage  from  the  Queen  City  of 
'  ^  the  Adriatic  for  Alexandria.  The  sun 
was  dipping  close  to  the  horizon,  as  our  steamer 
slowly  pressed  its  way  along  the  serpentine 
channel  into  the  deep  sea.  The  city  reflected 
silver  and  gold  as  the  sunlight  played  upon 
roof,  dome,  and  tower.  The  water  was  smooth 
as  glass,  and  the  sky,  of  the  deepest  blue.  Our 
departure  from  that  quaint  city  seemed  signally 
fortunate.  The  mind  had  been  interested  in 
its  novelties,  its  streets  of  water,  its  gondolas 
and  boats  for  hacks  and  coaches,  its  palaces  and 
churches,  its  Bridge  of  Sighs  and  Ducal  Palace, 
its  paintings  and  sculptures,  its  doves  and  beads. 
As  we  cast  lingering  looks  upon  the  vanishing 
city,  we  could  but  think  of  other  days  and 
olden  times,  when  artist,  hero,  and  scholar, 
ruled  this  land  and  sea,  when  ships  from  all 
climes  were  bearing  heavy  burdens  to  and  fro 
across  these  waters,  and  Venice  was  the  pride 
of  regal  doges,  ruling  the  world  in  commerce. 


298      AFTER-THOUGHTS    OF   FOREIGN    TRAVEL. 

A  prosperous  passage  through  the  night 
brought  us  the  next  morning  into  the  harbor 
of  Brindisi,  once  ancient  Brundusium,  the 
terminus  of  the  Appian  Way,  and  rendered 
forever  memorable  by  the  death  of  Virgil. 
As  we  go  on  shore,  we  find  here  and  there  a 
relic  of  the  old  city,  reminding  us  of  that  event- 
ful convention  in  which  Horace  and  Maecenas 
acted  such  a  conspicuous  part;  and  of  that 
siege  which  Pompey  sustained  with  the  con- 
suls and  senators  of  Rome  against  Julius 
C(Bsar. 

We  found  but  little  in  the  modern  to  re- 
mind us  of  the  Mlanese,  the  Romans,  or  the 
Venetians.  The  people  have  lost  much  of 
the  ancient  civilization,  and  learned  little  of 
the  modern.  They  look  hard  and  homely. 
Most  of  them  go  barefooted  and  \vith  unwashen 
faces. 

At  sunset  we  leave  this  city.  The  wind  is 
blowing  strong  from  the  east,  and  it  is  not  long 
before  some  of  the  passengers  are  ready  to  pay 
homage  to  Neptune.  On  the  following  day  we 
catch  sight  of  Grecian  highlands  near  sandy 
Pylos,  and  are  strongly  reminded  of  classic 
scenes  and  heroic  deeds.  In  imagination  we 
see  Telemachus  hastening  to  inquire  of  Nestor 
concerning  the  fate  of  his  dear  father.     Day  by 


LOWER   EGYPT  AND   CAIRO.  299 

day,  and  night  by  night,  we  are  riding  under 
the  same  sun  and  stars  that  shone  upon  Cadmus 
and  Jason,  upon  lawgiver  and  prophet. 

On  the  fifth  day  of  sailing  from  Brindisi  from 
the  bow  of  our  steamer,  we  spy  a  small  object 
far  ahead  and  just  above  the  waves  of  the  sea ; 
and  in  half  an  hour  more,  a  long  range  of  sandy 
coast  is  presented,  dotted  with  numerous  wind- 
mills, and  in  the  centre  of  the  crescent-shaped 
shore  stands  the  city  of  Alexandria  overtopped 
with  its  numerous  domes  and  minarets.  At 
once  we  discover  that  to  be  a  peculiar  city, 
unlike  any  in  western  lands.  Soon  anchors 
are  dropped  in  the  roadstead,  a  mile  from  the 
shore,  and  immediately  a  score,  or  more,  of 
small  boats  crowded  with  yellow  faces  in  the 
midst  of  blue  and  white  shirts,  red  caps,  and 
variegated  turbans,  are  rapidly  approaching  our 
vessel,  and  almost  as  quick  as  thought  they  are 
on  deck  here  and  everywhere,  clutching  at  this 
valise  and  that  umbrella,  this  bundle  and  that 
trunk.  The  passengers  are  amazed  and  en- 
raged ;  some  must  laugh  and  others  scold.  In 
such  a  crisis  coolness  could  hardly  be  considered 
a  virtue.  As  we  stand  guarding  our  effects,  it 
is  pleasant  to  feel,  there  musfc  be  an  end  to 
all  mortal  fusses ;  and  at  length  the  rage  is 
over,   and   a  tall,    straight,    and   well  dressed 


300      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

A-rab  accosts  us,  asking,  if  we  would  like  a 
dragoman.  This  means,  would  you  like  a  cou- 
rier, a  valet,  an  adviser,  in  short,  one  who  is 
to  speak  for  you,  and  provide  for  you?  He 
is  dressed  in  loose  trousers,  a  tight  jacket  of 
light  blue  broadcloth,  and  a  red  cap.  He  con- 
ducts himself  gentlemanly,  and  is  careful  not  to 
present  any  claims,  but  begins  to  talk  at  once 
about  America  and  England,  evidently  being 
at  loss  to  decide  whether  we  are  from  the  new, 
or  old  world.  He  presently  informs  us,  if  we 
wish,  we  can  go  on  shore  in  his  boat.  In  these 
Eastern  ports,  there  are  no  wharves ;  so  the 
ships  are  obliged  to  anchor  out  some  distance 
from  shore,  receiving  and  discharging  their 
passengers  and  cargoes  in  small  boats.  We 
accept  of  the  kindly  offer  and  are  soon  on  shore, 
and  in  front  of  the  custom-house  having  for  the 
most  part  sand  for  its  flooring  and  the  open 
sky  for  its  roofing.  A  barefooted  official  soon 
demands  our  passports,  hurriedly  scans  them 
over  and  returns  them,  requesting  the  gate  to 
be  opened  that  we  may  be  ushered  into  the 
city  of  Alexandria.  As  we  search  for  our 
baggage,  we  find  it  is  undergoing  examination ; 
great  brawny  hands  are  fumbling  it  over  and 
piercing  eyes  are  penetrating  every  crevice 
and  nook,  expecting  to  find  some  "tobac,"  or 


LOWER   EGYPT   AND   CAIRO.  301 

'^  vino,"  which  will  be  subject  to  heavy  duties, 
and  will  be  quite  certain  to  place  in  their  hands 
much  bukshish. 

But  disappointment  is  pictured  on  the  officer's 
face  as  he  comes  to  the  last  parcel  and  discovers 
nothing  subject  to  taxation.  By  no  means  are 
all  the  other  voyagers  so  fortunate.  Now  as 
we  advance  into  the  city  what  a  variety  of  cos- 
tumes and  complexions  meets  us  on  every  hand  ! 
What  a  mingling  of  the  strange  and  the  familiar  ! 
Surely  the  oriental  and  occidental  have  met 
here,  and  are  apparently  forming  unions  for  life. 
Here  are  to  be  seen  French,  English,  Italians, 
Copts,  Moors,  Bedouins,  Turks,  and  Nubians. 
We  hear  as  many  different  tongues  spoken  on 
the  sidewalk,  as  we  see  different  faces.  The 
contrast  of  dress  is  singularly  striking.  The 
Frenchman  looks  as  though  he  had  just  come 
out  of  the  drawer ;  the  Arab  as  though  he  had 
just  crawled  out  of  the  mud.  Thfe  little  don- 
keys which  are  flying  about  the  streets  so  lively, 
are  novelties,  indeed !  It  seems  strange  how 
such  tiny  legs  and  small  bodies  can  bear  up  so 
large  burdens.  Here  comes  along  one  with  a 
fat  old  Arab  upon  his  back  with  his  long  legs 
dangling  almost  to  the  ground.  It  is  plain,  the 
rider  would  pull  down  more  pounds  avoirdupois 
than  the  animal  under  him.     Yonder  we  see 


302      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

half  a  dozen  gentlemen,  perhaps,  clerks  from 
the  stores,  galloping  oft*  upon  the  backs  of  these 
little  creatures  with  boys  running  close  to  their 
heels,  spurring  them  up.  In  another  direction 
we  discover  a  whole  street  full  of  donkeys  with 
naked  boys  upon  their  backs,  seated  between 
bags  of  water;  close  upon  th^m  are  several 
sailors  from  some  ship  just  anchored  in  the 
harbor,  taking  their  first  ride  upon  the  Egyptian 
tramway.  They  all  turn  down  a  street  crowded 
with  camels  and  dromedaries,  laded  with  mer- 
chandise. They  rush  together  pell-mell,  and 
are  very  soon  strangely  mixed  together  and 
\)rought  to  a  stand-still.  Donkeys  keep  rushing 
in  from  all  quarters  ;  it  at  once  becomes  a  mon- 
strous jumble.  Now  begins  the  Moslem's  chorus 
of  pulling,  whipping,  and  kicking ;  at  length, 
the  Gordian  knot  begins  to  unloose,  and  by 
some  mysterious  means  all  are  set  free  and  go 
on  their  way  as  though  nothing  strange  had 
happened. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  city  we  come  to 
the  Pillar  of  Pompey  which  towers  above  all 
surrounding  objects.  This  consists  of  a  pedestal 
ten  feet  square  and  fifteen  feet  high,  with  a  round 
column  of  solid  granite,  seventy  feet  high  and 
six  feet  in  diameter,  crowned  with  a  beautiful 
capital.     This  reminds  us  of  another  city  which 


LOWER  EGYPT  AND  CAIRO.  303 

once  stood  where  the  modern  now  stands. 
Histbry  and  memory  enable  us  to  look  across 
the  sea  to  Greece.  Some  three  hundred  and 
thirty-two  years  before  the  Christian  era,  in 
imagination  we  see  a  youth  full  of  promise  and 
ambition ;  he  had  been  for  a  long  while  under 
the  instruction  of  the  wise  Aristotle.  -  His 
father  Philip  who  had  proved  himself  a  wise 
general,  was  suddenly  cut  off  in  the  midst  of 
great  undertakings.  The  son  at  once  stepped 
forth  to  carry  out  the  plans  of  his  father.  So 
we  discover  the  youthful  Alexander  crossing 
the  ^gean  Sea  with  Grecian  forces  and  march- 
ing through  Asia  Minor  and  Syria,  conquering 
city  after  city,  till  at  length  he  reaches  the 
mouth  of  the  Nile,  where  he  founds  a  city 
taking  his  own  name,  which  in  less  than  two 
centuries  becomes  opulent  and  cultured.  About 
the  time  the  Ptolemies  succeeded  the  Pharaohs, 
when  Memphis  was  old  and  Thebes  crumbling 
into  ruins,  Alexandria  was  in  its  greatest  splen- 
dor. Tlien  the  city  had  a  population  of  some 
six  hundred  thousand  inhabitants  instead  of 
sixty  thousand,  as  at  present.  Then  there  was 
a  broad  street  extending  from  Lake  Mareotis  to 
tlie  Mediterranean.  In  the  central  part  of  this 
thoroughfare  stood  the  Serapeum  surrounded  by 
its  four  hundred  columns,  of  which  Pompey's 


304      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

Pillar  was  one.  In  connection  with  this  temple 
was  that  great  Alexandrian  library  of  seven 
hundred  thousand  volumes  in  manuscript  after 
four  hundred  thousand  volumes  had  been  de- 
stroyed. Here,  too,  was  a  university  in  which 
were  assembled  fifteen  thousand  students  at  the 
same  time,  to  listen  to  the  lectures  of  Origen, 
Philo,  Euclid,  Manetho,  Aristophanes,  ApoUo- 
nius,  and  Apelles.  Theology,  science,  art,  and 
history,  received  special  attention.  This  city 
then  was  the  centre  of  civilization  and  learning. 
Scholars  came  hither  from  all  parts  of  the  world 
for  instruction.  Grecian  and  Egjrptian  skill 
imited  to  adorn  it  with  the  grandest  works  of 
art.  As  we  go  upon  the  sea-shore,  we  can  wit- 
ness the  site  where  that  first  lighthouse  was 
built,  rising  up  five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  from  whose  summit  the  nightly  fires  were 
kept  burning  that  safe  passage  might  be  made 
far  away  upon  calm,  or  troubled  waters.  The 
lighthouse  of  Pharos  constructed  out  of  the 
whitest  marble,  was  worthy  to  be  counted 
among  the  seven  wonders  of  the  world. 

Close  upon  the  sea  stood  one  of  the  Needles 
of  Cleopatra,  a  monolith  of  syenitic  granite, 
being  seventy  feet  high,  and  dating  back  fully 
twelve  centuries  before  the  Christian  era.  This 
obelisk  is   one    of  many    which  once  adorned 


LOWER  EGYPT  AND  CAIRO.  305 

the  city  of  Heliopolis.  As  the  stranger  gazes 
upon  its  tapering  spire  and  its  quaint  hiero- 
glyphics, his  mind  must  thrill  with  stirring 
associations.  He  can  but  recall  the  name  of 
Kameses  III.,  in  whose  honor  it  was  erected, 
and  the  dusky  queen  of  Egypt,  whose  name  it 
bears  at  the  present  time.  It  is  an  enduring 
monument  of  pathos  and  wildest  history. 
Shakespeare  has  verily  made  it  a  poem  in  stone. 
Now  it  is  the  property  of  our  country,  and 
graces  Central  Park,  New  York.  How  it 
kindles  the  imagination  and  lights  up  the  past ! 
How  expressive  the  union  of  the  oldest  and  the 
youngest,  the  marriage  of  the  ancient  to  the 
modern  I 

A  little  way  from  Pompey's  Pillar  on  the 
east,  we  come  into  a  grove  of  palm-trees. 
These  are  growing  indigenous  to  the  soil ;  they 
are  quite  unlike  the  trees  of  our  groves,  or  for- 
ests. They  have  not  the  grace  of  the  elm,  or 
the  strength  of  the  oak,  or  the  conical  beauty 
of  the  maple.  They  will  average  about  fifty 
feet  high  and  a  foot  in  diameter.  Their  leaves 
are  all  at  the  top,  spread  out  like  an  umbrella 
reversed.  Under  these  are  thickly  clustered 
the  dates.  There  are  six  or  eight  bunches  on 
each  tree,  and  each  bunch  contains  something 
like  a  bushel  of  fruit.     A  native  comes  out  to 


306   AFTER-THOUGHTS  OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

gather  dates  ;  so  fastening  a  rope  round  liis  body 
and  clasping  it  about  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  ad- 
justs it  in  such  a  manner  that,  as  his  feet  are 
braced  against  the  tree,  the  rope  upon  his  back 
sustains  him.  By  springing  and  lifting  the  rope 
at  the  same  time  on  the  tree,  he  ascends  quickly 
to  the  fruit.  There  high  from  the  ground  he 
rests  composedly,  picking  out  the  ripe  dates  till 
his  basket  is  full ;  and  then  lets  himself  down  as 
strangely  as  he  ascended.  Certainly,  education 
does  accomplish  wonders. 

Passing  to  the  market-place,  we  find  it  is  a 
favorable  time  to  visit  it,  for  it  is  Saturday, 
the  special  day  for  sales.  A  large  number  of 
cattle  have  lately  arrived  from  far  up  the  Nile, 
and  many  sheep  have  recently  come  in  from  the 
Lebanon  hills.  The  grounds  are  not  divided 
into  compartments,  but  ever^-thing  is  just  where 
it  happens  to  be.  All  seems  to  be  marvellously 
mixed  up.  How  strange  the  animals  look  1 
The  oxen  have  giant  frames  and  little  flesh. 
They  have  large  humps  above  their  shoulders 
and  monstrous  spreading  horns ;  their  color  is 
that  of  the  mouse  ;  and  they  are  valued  at  sixty 
dollars  a  pair.  The  sheep  have  evidently  been 
where  the  grass  Was  plenty  and  sweet.  These 
are  larger  than  the  Swiss,  the  Scotch,  or  New 
England  sheep.     Their  wool  is  long  and  fine. 


LOWER  EGYPT   AND   CAIRO.  307 

The  cows  are  few  and  very  coarse.  They 
afford  no  signs  of  filling  a  twelve-quart,  or  even 
a  six-quart  pail,  at  one  milking.  The  people 
here  rely  largely  upon  goats  for  milk,  and  these 
are  almost  countless  and  of  several  varieties. 
We  see  some  fine  horses  looking  as  though  they 
had  just  been  led  out  of  English,  or  American 
stalls.  A  good  horse  will  bring  here  from  three 
to  fi\^e  hundred  dollars.  The  inevitable  donkeys 
are  present  in  large  numbers,  and  full  of  their 
pranks,  keeping  the  boys  in  charge  of  them  on 
a  constant  lookout.  The  poultry  are  well  repre- 
sented. The  fowls  are  not  caged  but  tied  to- 
gether in  bunches  by  their  legs.  How  unmer- 
ciful is  such  treatment !  But  custom  sanctions 
it,  and  custom  sanctions  also  woman's  killing 
them.  The  wheat,  beans,  pease,  cotton,  millet, 
dates,  pomegranates,  are  strewn  round  in  great 
confusion.  Disorder  appears  to  be  the  law  of 
the  place. 

Not  far  from  the  market  we  enter  a  Mos- 
lem cemetery  containing  forty  acres  in  area. 
It  is  thickly  crowded  with  mounds  from  one  to 
three  feet  high ;  the  larger  are  graves  of  men, 
and  the  smaller,  of  women.  The  Mohammedan 
resrards  woman  as  inferior  when  she  comes  into 
this  world,  and  as  inferior  when  she  goes  out  of 
it,  and  so  he  emphasizes  this  feeling  by  burying 


308      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

her  in  an  insignificant  grave.  The  only  vegeta- 
tion in  the  yard  consists  of  sunburnt  cactuses 
and  half  a  dozen  locust-trees.  It  is  a  most  des- 
olate burial  ground.  While  wandering  among 
the  graves,  we  observe  a  funeral  procession  ad- 
vancing. It  is  led  by  a  dozen  women  dressed 
in  black  and  white;  then  come  two  bearers 
with  the  corpse  on  their  heads,  followed  by 
forty  men  as  mourners  ;  no  female  kindred  are 
allowed  to  be  present.  The  women  leading  are 
hired  to  wail  and  lament.  Oh  I  what  noises 
they  make  as  they  are  approaching  the  grave  I 
When  this  is  reached,  the  corpse  is  laid  upon 
the  ground  and  a  priest  performs  a  short  ser- 
vice, and  then  the  body  is  placed  in  the  grave, 
in  a  partly  sitting  position  with  the  face  turned 
towards  Mecca.  The  mourners  now  withdraw 
to  a  locust-tree  and  are  seated  under  its  shade, 
smoking  their  pipes  and  apparently  not  discom- 
forted, while  the  hired  servants  are  doing  their 
best  in  the  way  of  weeping.  Thus  they  tarry 
till  the  grave  is  covered,  and  when  this  is  done 
they  leave  the  yard  with  quick  steps  and  light 
hearts,  as  though  they  had  not  been  disturbed 
by  any  great  grief,  or  rendered  lonely  by  the 
departure  of  a  dear  friend. 

Near  Pompey's  Pillar  we  descend  into  deep 
cavities.     As  we  go  down,  we  find  the  dirt  or 


LOWER  EGYPT  AND   CAIRO.  309 

earth  as  solid  as  stone ;  when  some  fifty  feet 
from  the  surface  our  tapers  are  lighted,  and  we 
follow  winding  passages  ;  as  we  advance  we  find 
remnants  of  pottery,  fragments  of  tombstones, 
and  pieces  of  human  bones.  These  cells  and 
vaults  were  once  filled  with  mummies  which 
were  deposited  here  long  centuries  ago.  Many 
of  them  have  been  taken  out  of  these  dark 
recesses  well  preserved.  Some  of  them  may 
now  be  seen  in  the  museums  of  Paris,  London, 
and  New  York.  Now  and  then  we  discover 
niches  in  the  sides  of  the  cavities,  where, 
no  doubt,  vases  were  placed,  and  lamps  were 
kept  burning.  The  relics  plainly  show  that 
these  were  burial  places  of  ancient  Greeks  and 
Romans.  Many  of  the  urns  and  vases  taken 
from-  these  tombs,  are  beautiful  in  style  and 
finish,  showing  that  the  dwellers  here  did  excel 
in  moulding  the  clay.  While  searching  among 
these  relics,  we  can  but  have  the  feeling,  the 
world  is  old.  It  is  evident,  the  land  here  has 
been  sinking  during  past  ages,  and  this  will 
account  for  these  tombs  being  buried  deep 
beneath  the  modern  city. 

Is  it  asked,  how  we  like  the  government  of 
this  country?  We  can  say,  we  find  it  exceed- 
ingly Turkish.  The  governor,  or  pacha,  has 
things  his  own  way.     In  name  only  is  he  sub- 


310      AFTEK-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

ject  to  the  saltan  of  Constantinople.  The  past 
history  of  the  country  shows  that  it  has  been 
controlled  by  a  succession  of  more  than  three 
hundred  kings.  Its  record  breathes  of  bloody 
tyranny.  The  present  ruler  holds  the  life  and 
death  of  his  subjects  in  his  own  hands.  With- 
out any  trial  he  has  caused  many  to  be  put  to 
death.  All  who  take  part  in  his  government 
must  be  his  sworn  friends.  It  is  true  that  in 
his  realm,  progress  is  being  made  in  the  way  of 
railroads  and  steamboats,  but  this  is  mainly  due 
to  foreign  pressure  and  the  necessity  of  the  age. 
Most  of  the  wealth  and  enterprise  of  Alexandria 
at  the  present  time  is  due  to  foreigners.  Good 
fortune  now  seems  to  be  smiling  somewhat  pro- 
pitiously upon  the  city  of  the  great  warrior 
whose  name  it  perpetuates.  Perchance,  when 
western  cities  shall  have  grown  old  and  ^ise, 
and  shall  be  wasting  away,  Alexandria  shall 
grow  again  into  a  city  of  fifteen  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, becoming  once  more  the  centre  of 
art  and  learning. 

But  we  must  bid  adieu  to  this  city ;  so  taking 
the  train  for  Cairo,  we  are  soon  moving  across 
a  wide  and  level  stretch  of  country.  Looking 
out  of  the  car- windows,  we  see  canals  of  water 
bordered  with  rushes  and  covered  in  places  with 
white  lilies  bavins:  blossoms  a  foot  in  diameter. 


LOWER  EGYPT   AND   CAIRO.  311 

and  pads  exposing  a  much  larger  surface.  How 
we  wish,  we  might  pick  some  of  these  surprising 
beauties  and  send  them  across  the  great  sea 
to  the  loved  ones  who  delight  so  much  in 
the  works  of  nature.  On  either  hand  are  to 
be  seen  fields  of  cotton,  rice,  millet,  and  Indian 
corn.  It  is  now  the  last  of  September,  and  in 
places  camels  and  donkeys  are  yoked  together 
ploughing  the  ground  for  sowing  the  wheat.  In 
some  parts  of  the  country  three  crops  a  year  are 
taken  from  the  same  field.  These  may  be  wheat, 
rice,  and  Indian  corn.  As  we  examine  the  rich 
soil,  we  can  realize,  how  the  land  is  the  gift  of 
the  Nile.  We  frequently  pass  villages  with 
houses  huddled  together,  and  built  out  of  sun- 
burnt brick.  Their  appearance  is  far  from  be- 
ing inviting.  Still  as  we  stop  at  their  depots, 
it  is  pleasant,  to  witness  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, offering  cold  water  to  passengers,  hoping 
to  receive  in  return  some  bakshish.  Probably, 
there  are  no  other  people  living,  who  are  so 
temperate  as  to  their  drink,  as  the  Mohamme- 
dans. 

The  valley  of  the  Nile  varies  in  width  from 
five  to  ten  miles.  Its  waters  are  now  falling ; 
they  began  to  rise  about  the  first  of  June, 
reaching  their  height  the  last  of  August.  The 
land  rises  from  the  river  in  terraces  ;  and  as  the 


312      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

water  withdraws  from  the  highest  and  most  dis- 
tant, the  peasant  goes  forth  often  sowing  the 
wheat  upon  the  soft  mud ;  and  by  the  time  the 
water  has  receded  from  the  second  terrace, 
making  it  ready  for  sowing,  the  grain  of  the 
first  sowing  is  up  some  inches ;  and  by  the 
time  the  seed  is  up  on  the  land  close  by  the 
river,  that  which  was  first  sown,  is  ready  for 
harvest.  So  here  we  have  a  beautiful  ilhistration 
of  that  Scripture  saying, "  First  the  blade,  then 
the  ear,  after  that  the  full  corn  in  the  ear  " ;  or 
as  we  witness  them  casting  the  grain  upon  the 
shallow  water,  as  it  is  leaving  the  field,  we  are 
reminded  of  another  passage  saying,  "  Cast  thy 
bread  upon  the  waters,  and  after  many  days,  it 
shall  return  unto  thee."  In  j)laces  we  notice 
oxen  turning  the  windlass  and  so  raising  water 
from  lower  to  higher  ditches ;  we  also  see  men 
lifting  it  by  means  of  the  old-fashioned  well- 
sweep,  or  standing  on  opposite  sides  of  the 
ditches,  swinging  tight  woven  baskets  by  ropes 
attached  to  the  handles,  so  as  to  throw  it  upon 
the  elevation  above  them ;  in  this  way  they 
keep  the  fields  irrigated. 

At  length  we  are  crossing  the  Nile ;  we  find 
it  a  wide  river  at  this  season  of  the  year ;  though 
its  natural  embankments  cannot  be  a  mile  apart. 
Not  far  below  us  the  Delta  begins,  and  the  river 


LOWER  EGYPT  AND  CAIRO.  313 

commences  to  divide  into  numerous  branches, 
so  that  at  its  mouth  there  are  many  rivers  emp- 
tying its  waters  into  the  sea.     In  the  distance 
we  can  see  the  desert,  and  now  we  are  reminded 
of  the  warfare  which  has  been  going  on  for  ages 
between  the  sand  and  water.     The  Nile  speaks 
of  life,  and  the  desert  of  death.     So  far  the  river 
has  borne  off  the  palm.     No   wonder,  it   has 
been  an   object   of    worship.     It   breathes   of 
mystery,  and  yet  is  full  of  hope.     To  the  Egyp- 
tians it  is  a  good  power,  while  the  desert  is  an  evil 
one.     No  wonder,  it  should  give  rise  to  the  al- 
legory of  the  burial  of  Osiris  in  its  sacred  waters, 
whence  he  rose  once  a  year,  to  scatter  fresh 
blessings  over  the  earth.     Its    annual  overflow 
which  has  occurred  within  a  few  hours  of  the 
same  time  for  centuries,  presents  a  problem  in 
physical  science  which  has  not  yet  been  solved. 
Here  in  Lower  Egypt  it  rises  from  twenty-five 
to  thirty  feet.     Should  it  come  short  even  a  few 
inches  of  twenty-five  feet  at  Cairo,  the  people 
would  expect  a  famine ;  or  should  it  rise  but 
little  above  its  ordinary  height,  they  would  fear  - 
great  devastation  from  floods.     So   they  have 
watched  and  worshipped  the  Nile.     In  all  the 
cities  along  the  banks,  there  have  been  priests 
whose  exclusive  service  has  been  devoted  to  the 
god,  Nilus.      Then,  too,  its  plants  and  vege- 


314      AFTER-THOUGirrS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

tation  have  been  regarded  divine  ;  and  so  they 
have  been  expressed  in  works  of  art.  Every- 
where in  their  tombs  and  temples  are  to  be  seen 
the  graceful  outlines  of  the  rose-colored  lotus. 
As  friends  have  died,  they  have  regarded  it  a 
blessing,  if  their  bodies  could  be  borne  across 
the  Nile  to  the  silent  city.  They  have  cher- 
ished the  feeling  that  the  god  Anubis  watched 
over  all  such  burials.  Are  we  aware,  when 
Ave  speak  of  the  darkling  stream,  and  crossing 
the  river  of  death,  we  are  using  images  which 
originated  by  the  mysterious  Nile  ? 

Now  that  we  are  over  the  river,  we  are  re- 
minded, we  are  on  the  western  border  of  the 
land  of  Goshen.  Here  imaiifiuation  cannot  fail 
of  presenting  pictures  of  the  old  Israelites,  as 
they  were  settled  in  this  country.  At  first 
they  were  only  a  little  handful  of  Abrahamic 
descendants,  providentially,  it  would  seem, 
brought  into  the  land  and  so  guarded,  that  for 
more  than  two  hundred  years  they  multiplied 
in  numbers  and  advanced  in  civilization,  till 
they  became  a  mighty  power  in  Egypt.  In 
cultivating  the  soil,  in  working  stone  and  wood, 
and  moulding  the  clay,  they  took  the  lead.  At 
lensrth  the  oris^inal  inhabitants  beoran  to  fear 
their  influence,  and  Pharaoh  set  in  operation 
forces  which  soon  ground  them  down  into  the 


LOWER   EGYPT   AND   CAIRO.  315 

most  abject  slavery.  At  that  time  a  few  miles 
to  the  east  of  us  stood  the  city  of  On,  better 
known  as  Heliopolis.  It  was  then  the  seat 
of  wisdom  and  culture,  the  Oxford  of  Egypt, 
filled  with  temples  and  colleges.  Here  it 
was  that  Joseph  married  his  beautiful  Ase- 
nath  ;  here  Moses  was  schooled,  laying  the  foun- 
dation, deep  and  strong,  for  a  noble  life  and 
character.  Still  later  Plato  resided  here  for 
some  twelve  years  as  a  student;  no  doubt,  it 
was  here  that  he  became  initiated  into  the  great 
doctrine  of  immortality  which  afterwards  flamed 
out  in  his  classic  Phaedon.  The  only  relic 
left  of  that  grand  old  city  is  a  single  obelisk 
similar  in  shape  and  size  to  the  Needles  of  Cle- 
opatra. Could  we  only  solve  the  mysteries  of 
its  curious  hieroglyphics,  what  strange  histories 
of  past  ages  would  be  revealed  !  But  now  we 
must  leave  it  a  mystery  amidst  a  cluster  of  date 
and  acacia  trees. 

After  ridiniJ:  some  ei«:ht  hours  in  the  cars  from 
Alexandria,  we  find  ourselves  at  the  station  just 
outside  of  Cairo.  The  first  look  upon  this  city 
assures  us,  it  is  altogether  Oriental.  Here  again 
we  are  beset  with  the  donkey  boys ;  they  are 
determined  we  shall  have  a  ride  into  the  city 
upon  their  quaint  tramway ;  but  we  decline  all 
ofiers,  and  push  our  way  into  the  city  of  tall 


316      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

houses,  numerous  mosques  overtopped  with  still 
more  numerous  domes  and  minarets,  and  along 
streets  crowded  with  countless  men,  women, 
and  children.  As  we  look  up,  it  seems  odd  to 
see  the  roofs  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  streets 
drawing  in  towards  each  other,  and  frequently 
meeting  so  as  to  shut  out  the  sunlight.  Wo 
step  into  a  hotel  and  inquire  the  price  of  board 
and  lodging  per  day,  and  we  are  informed,  six 
dollars  in  gold  ;  thinking  this  too  high,  we  pass 
on  to  another  and  make  the  same  inquiry,  and 
are  informed,  four  dollars  in  gold,  which  is  the 
cheapest  house  in  the  city  for  its  conveniences. 
So  here  we  take  up  our  abode  and  fare  well  as 
to  all  necessary  comforts. 

As  we  go  out  into  this  city  of  more  than  six 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  we  find  the 
houses  huddled  together,  the  streets  everywhere 
narrow  and  shut  in,  and  all  the  day  long,  hosts 
of  people  crowding  the  thoroughfares,  as  though 
all  had  been  turned  out  of  doors.  As  we  watch 
their  movements,  they  do  not  appear  to  have 
any  special  object  in  view  except  that  of  simply 
killing  time.  Now  and  then  the  monotony  will 
be  broken  by  some  Arab  whipping  his  wife,  be- 
cause she  has  let  the  veil  covering  the  lower 
part  of  her  face  drop  so  as  to  expose  her  mouth 
and  chin ;    still  he  delights  to   have   her  make 


LOWER  EGYPT  AND   CAIRO.  317 

exhibition  of  her  nude  breast,  especially,  if  it  is 
prominently  developed.  The  stores  are  on  a 
small  scale.  The  sroods  in  the  averaije  store 
might  be  placed  all  at  once  upon  the  back 
of  a  donkey,  and  he  would  bear  them  away 
with  ease.  We  discover  some  manufactures 
going  on  here  and  there,  though  on  a  small 
scale.  It  is  stated,  there  are  those  ensfaired 
in  work  all  the  way  from  picking  up  refuse  in 
the  streets  to  constructing  a  watch.  As  we 
are  passing  along,  our  attention  is  attracted 
to  a  school  by  the  roadside.  The  building  has 
for  its  floorino:  the  sand  and  for  its  roofinsf  the 
open  sky.  As  we  stop  to  look  in  upon  them, 
the  two  masters  and  forty  pupils  from  the 
ages  of  six  to  ten  years  old,  spring  to  their  feet 
and  advance  towards  us,  sharply  gazing  at  the 
strangers,  as  much  as  to  say,  it  is  our  privilege 
to  look,  as  well  as  yours.  For  five  minutes,  or 
more,  the  mutual  staring  is  kept  up ;  and  then 
teachers  and  children  assume  their  sitting  posi- 
tions right  in  the  sand,  and  begin  to  move  their 
lips  and  swing  their  bodies  back  and  forth ;  we 
inquire  of  our  dragoman  what  they  are  doing. 
He  says,  "  They  are  learning  a  Mohammedan 
prayer,  and,  when  they  shall  have  commit- 
ted a  few  prayers  to  memory  and  learned  a 
little  smattering  of  numbers,  so  as  to  calculate 


318       AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

bukshish,  then  their  schooling  will  be  com- 
pleted." IIow  sad  for  children  to  be  thus  con- 
ditioned !  They  have  apparently  good  physiques 
and  intelligent  faces.  Could  they  only  be  edu- 
cated in  our  own  country,  what  men  they 
would  be  likely  to  make !  But  iheir  religion 
binds  them  as  with  iron  chains  in  ignorance. 
In  this  land  the  priest  and  the  sword  have 
the  mightiest  sway. 

At  length  we  come  into  the  quarter  of  the 
bazaars.  As  the  eye  reaches  on,  it  would  seem, 
there  must  be  more  than  half  a  mile  of  stores 
clustering  together.  Entering  them  we  find  all 
kinds  of  productions  of  the  country  for  sale, 
and  a  great  variety  of  articles  from  the  far  east, 
and  a  few  from  the  far  west.  The  merchants 
are  very  polite,  and  proffer  us  at  once  little 
cups  of  coffee,  which  it  is  expected  we  will 
drink  without  hesitancy,  whether  we  are  dis- 
posed to  trade  with  them  or  not.  As  we  sip 
the  coffee,  we  soon  feel  it  tingling  to  the 
very  ends  of  our  fingers,  convincing  us,  if  the 
quantity  is  small,  the  quality  is  large.  Some 
of  the  shawls,  shoes,  and  silks,  are  beautiful, 
but  costly.  If  one  has  money  in  abundance, 
here  is  a  good  chance  to  spend  it. 

Leaving  the  bazaars  our  attention  is  soon 
attracted  by  a  baud  of  music,  so  called ;  but  it 


LOWER    EGYPT    AND   CAIRO.  319 

strikes  us  their  instruments  must  be  the  same 
as  the  Israelites  used  in  blowing  down  the  walls 
of  Jericho.  At  least,  the  noise  is  tremendous. 
On  inquiry  we  learn  that  a  wedding  is  being 
celebrated.  So  we  watch  the  movements,  and 
soon  discover  a  carriage  in  front  of  a  house 
with  bunches  of  money  attached  to  the  cover- 
ing ;  this  is  the  bride's  dowry.  It  is  not  long 
before  the  front  door  opens  and  a  piece  of  car- 
peting is  stretched  to  the  carriage,  and  an  ob- 
ject completely  wrapped  in  white  raiment  is  led 
to  it  and  helped  within,  and  the  door  is  shut. 
We  are  informed  this  is  the  bride,  but  we  ask, 
where  is  the  bridegroom?  "Oh,"  it  is  stated, 
"he  has  gone  oj0f  in  some  other  direction,  and, 
perhaps,  will  not  meet  this  wife  for  weeks."  It 
seems  somewhat  singular  to  us  that  the  bride 
should  have  her  first  ride  after  her  marriaire 
alone.  Just  before  the  carriage  starts,  two 
long-legged  fellows  with  rods  in  hand,  dart 
away  swinging  them  and  crying  out  to  the  top 
of  their  voices,  "Clear  the  way,  clear  the  way," 
and  the  carriage  follows  on.  The  bride  is  bound 
for  the  public  baths  ;  she  is  pursued  by  a  band 
of  half-naked  singers  who  make  the  air  crazy 
with  the  most  horrid  discords  and  barbaric 
howls  and  screeches.  Soon  they  are  out  of 
sight,  leaving  us  with  the  impression  that  mar- 


820      AFTEK-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

riage  in  this  country  does  not  tend  to  elevate 
"woman,  or  ennoble  man. 

As  we  look  around,  we  behold  a  motley  crowd. 
Here  are  Arabs,  Turks,  Numidians,  and  all  sorts 
of  human  species  from  that  of  a  puny,  sore-eyed 
urchin  with  its  face  literally  covered  with  flies, 
to  those  of  handsome  men.  Some  of  the  faces 
are  yellow,  others  tawny,  and  others  of  darkest 
bronze.  The  costume  of  the  better  classes 
consists  of  trousers  .fastened  about  the  body 
by  a  cord  with  silk  tassels  at  the  ends,  a  frock 
reaching  down  to  the  heels  with  full  flowing 
sleeves ;  and  on  their  heads  the  turban,  or 
tarboosh.  The  lower  orders  wear  generally, 
only  a  loose  shirt,  and  many  of  the  children 
are  entirely  nude.  The  manner  in  which 
affairs  move  on,  conveys  the  idea  that  they 
are  pretty  well  satisfied  with  this  kind  of 
life. 

We  now  ascend  to  the  citadel,  and  as  we  pass 
within  the  walls,  we  are  soon  made  conscious, 
we  are  in  the  stronghold  of  the  pacha  of  Cairo. 
The  walls  are  massive  about  it.  On  the  east 
side  is  a  splendid  mosque,  and  on  the  south  a 
superb  palace.  Before  we  can  walk  on  their 
polished  floors,  we  must  exchange  our  shoes  for 
slippers,  that  no  damage  may  be  done  the  mar- 
bles as  we  pass  over  them.     In  the  mosque  the 


LOWER   EGYPT   AND   CAIRO.  321 

ceiling  and  walls  are  decorated  with  lively 
frescos.  The  side  towards  Mecca  is  inlaid  with 
the  richest  red  and  white  alabaster.  To  the 
right  of  the  entrance  is  the  sarcophagus  of  Me- 
hemet  Ali.  Here  we  see  no  statuary,  or  paint- 
ings. The  Koran  forbids  such  ornaments  to  be 
in  a  Mohammedan  church ;  however,  in  a  few 
instances  we  have  seen  carvings  of  milinown 
plants  and  animals,  called  arabesques ;  these 
seem  poor  substitutes  for  the  wonderful  crea- 
tions of  Raphael,  Angelo,  and  Rubens,  which 
adorn  the  churches  of  Western  Europe. 

In  the  palace  we  find  a  large  suite  of  rooms 
frescoed  and  carpeted  with  light  and  sombre 
colors.  The  dancing  hall  of  the  pacha's  Circaa 
sian  wives  is  strikingly  gay.  It  is  sufficiently 
large  to  accommodate  two  hundred  at  the  same 
time ;  however,  we  make  no  eflfort  to  ascertaio 
whether  he  has  so  many  wives,  or  not. 

From  the  palace  we  go  to  the  well  of  Jacob 
and  look  down  into  a  hole  twenty  feet  in  diam- 
eter and  two  hundred  and  seventy  feet  deep. 
Tradition  says  the  Israelites  were  wont  to  draw 
water  here.  Certainly  the  well  bears  marks  of 
age. 

Now  we  seek  the  most  favorable  spot  for 
prospecting,  and  lo,  what  a  panorama  lies 
spread  out  before  us !     To  the  north  and  east 


322      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

"we  can  see  the  obelisk  of  Ileliopolis ;  still 
nearer  are  the  tombs  of  the  Mamelukes ;  to  the 
south  are  the  lofty  quarries  whence  the  stone 
was  cut  out  for  the  buildiug  of  the  city,  and 
on  their  heights  may  be  seen  ruined  castles  and 
crumblino:  edifices.  To  the  westward  are  the 
wasting  ruins  of  old  Cairo,  the  famous  island 
of  Ehoda,  green  with  its  groves  of  palms,  and 
still  farther  on,  the  gigantic  pyramids  of  Gizeli 
and  Sahara.  To  the  north  aud  west  along  the 
banks  of  the  Nile,  are  fields  of  waving  corn ; 
while  close  about  and  under  us  is  the  city  of 
Cairo  with  its  four  hundred  mosques  of  glisten- 
ing spires  and  domes.  From  this  place  of 
look-off  we  would  judge  the  city  to  be  three 
miles  in  extent  east  and  west,  and  a  mile  north 
and  south.  The  buildings  look  as  though  they 
were  all  joined  together.  The  roofs  are  mostly 
flat  and  evidently  used  for  domestic  purposes. 
They  serve  as  sleeping  apartments  in  the  hot- 
test seasons.  Would  it  not  be  a  strange  sight 
to  look  at  six  hundred  thousand  people  sleeping 
upon  these  house-tops  !  The  sunset  is  fast  ap- 
proaching. The  Moslems  are  expecting  the 
calls  all  over  the  city  of  the  muezzins  from  the 
lofty  galleries  of  the  minarets,  bidding  them 
worship  Mohammed  and  their  God.  There  are 
no  bells  here,  as  in  America,  to  strike  the  hour 


LOWER   EGYPT   AND   CAIRO.  323 

of  worship,   or  trumpets,   as  in  Jerusalem,  to 
proclaim  the  season  of  prayer. 

In  this  vast  city,  there  is.  no  public  library. 
In  fact,  we  have  seen  no  books  in  the  shops,  or 
stores,  except  a  few  copies  of  "  The  Arabian 
Nights,"  and  a  small  work  on  geometry  ;  neither 
is  there  any  museum  in  which  are  gathered  up 
treasures  of  antiquity.  It  seems  as  though  the 
people  are  not  living,  but  only  staying  here. 
We  can  but  ask,  how  long  is  this  order  of  things 
to  continue  ?  Why  should  the  old  civilization 
which  was  once  so  rife  in  this  land,  be  suffered 
to  dwindle  into  the  present  low  state?  All  this 
region  once  was  occupied  by  a  prosperous  and 
cultm-ed  people.  Here  were  the  haunts  of 
poets,  philosophers,  and  scholars.  In  those 
ancient  days  to  be  an  Egyptian  was  an  honor. 
Then  countless  hammers  were  rino:ino:  in  the 
quarries ;  brickyards  were  busy  with  stirring 
hands  and  feet ;  potteries  were  turning  out  the 
most  beautiful  vases  ;  grand  temples  were  being 
built,  and  gorgeous  palaces  were  adorning  the 
banks  of  the  Nile.  But  how  fallen  the  glory  of 
the  past !  Refinement  has  been  supplanted  by 
vulgarity ;  erudition,  by  ignorance ;  the  beau- 
tiful, by  the  ugly ;  the  palace,  by  the  hut ; 
progress,  by  deterioration.  As  we  bid  adieu 
to  the  city  of  Saladin  and  the  Arabian  Nights, 


324      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

we  must  think  of  it,  as  an  ever-changing  pano- 
rama of  life  and  death,  of  the  caressings  of  the 
Nile  and  the  blastings  of  the  Desert. 

A  donkey  ride  of  twelve  miles  to  the  south- 
west takes  us  to  the  great  pyramids.  As  we 
are  borne  away  upon  the  little  animals,  we 
are  forced  to  regard  them  strange  anomalies 
of  patience  and  endurance.  On  our  way  we 
pass  through  old  Cairo,  which  we  find  a  filthy  and 
desolate  place.  We  cross  the  Nile  on  the  crudest 
raft  to  the  island  of  Rhoda  where  stands  the 
tall  column  bearing  the  records  of  the  rise  and 
fall  of  the  river  for  many  centuries ;  here  the 
palm-trees  are  thriving,  but  the  people  dwelling 
among  them  are  wretched  indeed.  From  this 
land  we  are  ferried  once  more,  donkeys  and  all, 
across  another  branch  of  the  river.  By  this 
time  we  begin  to  realize  that  the  Nile  is  really 
a  great  institution,  deserving  to  be  called  the 
mother  of  Egypt.  It  is  many  times  the  width 
of  the  Thames  at  London  Bridge,  or  the  Hud- 
son at  New  York  City.  From  this  point  we  are 
hm-ried  upon  the  gallop  for  miles  over  a  level 
stretch  of  country  to  within  a  few  hundred  rods 
of  the  mighty  wonders  of  the  desert.  Here  we 
dismount,  and  wade  through  the  sand,  nearly 
knee -deep,  to  Cheops,  and  lo,  right  before 
us   are  the    vast  objects   which  inspired  such 


LOWER   EGYPT   AND   CAIRO.  325 

amazement  and  mystery  in  our  boyhood  !  How 
familiar  they  have  been  made  to  us  by  books 
and  pictures  !  Like  weird  necromancers  they 
invoke  hosts  of  spectres  from  the  shadowy 
graves  of  the  past.  Somehow  as  we  gaze,  we 
feel,  they  cannot  well  be  exaggerated,  any  more 
than  the  Alps,  or  Niagara  Falls.  Ah !  they 
had  a  history  before  history  began  —  when  the 
world's  "  gray  forefathers  "  roamed  at  will  over 
the  earth,  and  angels  made  frequent  visits  to  the 
children  of  men.  Perchance,  Abraham  was 
familiar  with  their  massive  forms,  and  Joseph 
frequently  rested  under  their  extended  shadows. 
Generations  have  lived  and  died ;  empires  have 
risen  and  fallen ;  arts  and  sciences  have  flour- 
ished and  decayed  ;  still  on  the  partings  of  the 
desert  and  the  Nile,  stand  as  of  old  these  huge 
structures  of  unknown  time,  challen«:iu2:  the 
greatnesses  of  to-day  I 

But  here  we  are,  and  the  Bedouins,  also. 
Like  Hamlet's  ghosts,  they  come  and  go  in 
quick  succession.  We  purchase  the  privilege 
from  the  pacha  of  the  Bedouin  tribe  to  ascend  to 
the  top  of  the  largest  pyramid  by  paying  sev- 
enty-five cents  each ;  and  now  we  proceed  at 
once  for  the  climb,  but  as  we  attempt  to  leap 
to  the  top  of  the  first  layer  of  stone,  behold, 
twenty  hands  are  behind  us,  and  we  come  back 


326      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

more  quickly  than  we  went  up.  Two,  or  three 
trials  more,  convince  us,  it  is  no  use,  we  must 
employ  two  of  tliese  great  brawny  fellows  to 
assist  and  defend  us.  A?  we  strike  a  bargain 
with  them,  at  once  they  clasp  our  wrists 
and  leap  up  the  huge  blocks,  pulling  us  after 
them,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  are  on  the  top 
of  Cheops  at_Gizeh.  This  was  four  hundred 
and  eighty-four  feet  high,  but  several  layers  of 
stone  have  been  thrown  from  the  summit.  It 
covers  over  thirteen  and  a  half  acres  of  ground, 
and  its  sides  are  precisely  adjusted  to  the  four 
cardinal  pomts ;  the  length  of  one  side  of  the 
base  is  as  many  cubits,  as  there  are  days  and 
parts  of  a  day  in  a  year;  the  height  of  the 
pyramid  bears  the  same  relation  to  the  perime- 
ter of  the  base,  which  the  radius  of  a  circle 
bears  to  the  circumference.  It  is  evident  that 
the  architects  who  planned  it,  were  scientists, 
being  familiar  with  astronomy  and  mathemat- 
ics. According  to  Pliny,  some  three  hundred 
and  sixty  thousand  men  were  employed  thirty 
years  in  building  it.  It  is  evident,  a  part  of 
the  stones  were  taken  from  quarries  close  at 
himd,  and  the  rest  were  brought  from  far  up  the 
Nile.  This  pyramid,  and  also  the  next  two 
largest,  Chepren  and  Myceriuus,  and  the  Sphinx, 
are  built  upon  a  range  of  Lybian  ledge  about 
one  hundred  feet  above  the  river. 


LOWER   EGYGT   AND   CAIRO.  327 

We  enjoy  a  fine  view  from  this  height ;  the 
Nile  can  be  seen  for  a  long  distance ;  and  we 
can  look  far  out  upon  the  African  desert ;  the 
pyramids  of  Sahara  are  readily  seen.  It  is 
said,  there  are  more  than  seventy  of  these  pyra- 
mids in  Egypt ;  some  of  them  are  constructed 
of  brick  and  others  of  stone.  Cheops  is  built 
entirely  of  stone  having  two  hundred  and  sev- 
enty-two courses.  As  we  complete  our  pros- 
pecting and  commence  to  descend,  our  assistants 
clasp  our  wrists  again,  and  shrewdly  peering 
into  the  face,  ask,  if  we  know  Jack  and  Jill, 
and  begin  to  chant, 

"  Jack  and  Gill  went  up  the  hill, 
To  draw  a  pail  of  water, 
Jack  fell  down  and  broke  his  crown, 
And  Jill  came  tumbling  after, 
Crying  give  bukshisli,  give  bukshish, 
Goody    American   give    much    bukshish,    much 
bukshish!" 

At  length  we  are  safe  on  the  sand  once  more  ; 
and  now  we  pass  round  to  the  north  side,  and 
enter  a  passage  descending  on  an  angle  of 
twenty-six  degrees,  nearly  four  feet  high 
and  more  than  three  feet  wide,  and  three 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  long;  at  the  end 
of  this  there  is  a  horizontal  passage  lead- 
ing to  the    mortuary  room.     Sixty- three  feet 


328      AFTER-THOUOnXS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

from  the  cntnmce  is  an  ascending  passage  for  a 
hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  on  an  angle  of 
twenty-six  degrees ;  at  this  point  is  a  horizon- 
tal passage  to  the  left,  one  hundred  and  ten 
feet  long,  ending  in  the  Queen's  Chamber  which 
is  some  eighteen  feet  long,  seventeen  feet  wide 
and  twenty  high.  Returning  to  the  ascending 
passage  and  following  its  course,  we  soon  come 
to  the  Great  Gallery  which  is  a  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  long,  twenty-eight  high,  and  seven 
wide.  At  the  upper  end  of  this  we  enter  the 
King's  Chamber  which  is  thirty  feet  long,  sev- 
enteen wide,  and  nineteen  high.  This,  as  well 
as  the  other  chambers,  or  rooms,  is  lined, 
floored,  and  ceiled  with  syenitic  granite,  highly 
polished.  In  the  walling  of  this  room  has  been 
discovered  a  sarcophagus  some  twelve  feet  long, 
three  wide,  and  three  deep.  Above  this  cham- 
ber are  still  other  rooms.  After  examining  the 
vast  pile,  it  appears  evident  that  it  was  designed 
as  a  tomb  and  memorial  of  the  vain  monarch 
who  caused  it  to  be  built.  Its  workmanship  is 
the  perfection  of  art.  The  mind  that  conceived 
it  must  have  been  grand.  For  ages  it  has 
stood,  and  through  the  centuries  to  come  it  will 
stand,  revealing  its  wondrous  story  to  millions 
yet  unborn. 

Some  rods  in  front  of  the  pyramids  of  Gizeh 


LOWER   EGYPT  AND   CAIRO.  829 

rises  above  the  wavy  sand,  as  from  a  petrified 
sea,  a  massive  figure  with  a  human  face  and 
a  lion's  body  which  the  natives  call  Aboohol, 
signifying  the  father  of  terrors,  or  immensity. 
It  is  a  monster  of  strange  repose  and  indescrib- 
able meaning.  It  is  couched,  as  it  has  been 
couched  for  unknown  ages,  with  open  eyes  gaz- 
ing into  duration.  Hither  the  Pharaohs,  the 
old  Hebrews,  the  ancient  Persians,  the  classic 
Greeks,  the  brave  Coesars,  Arab  warriors, 
Christian  believers,  scientific  savans,  and  curi- 
osity seekers,  have  come  in  long  procession  and 
wondrously  stared  into  that  face,  so  expressive, 
and  yet  so  unchanging.  We  may  mock  at  it  as 
we  will,  yet  there  is  something  grand  in  its  un- 
changeableness. 

A  short  distance  to  the  southeast  of  these 
imposing  monuments  and  closer  upon  the  bank 
of  the  Nile,  have  been  opened  up  from  the 
wastes  of  sand,  the  ruins  of  old  Memphis.  If 
the  name  does  not  take  hold  of  the  heart  at  first 
like  the  name  of  New  York,  London,  or  Kome, 
still  it  had  a  brilliant  history  long  before  these 
modern  cities  were  even  dreamed  of.  Mem- 
phis had  a  splendid  court,  when  Attic  soil  was 
roamed  over  by  barbarians,  and  wildest  sav- 
ages were  holding  in  their  possession  Latium. 
Hither  came  the  great  Alexander,  looked  and 


330      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

admired.  Durinor  the  rei<]:n  of  the  Ptolemies,  it 
was  the  city  of  civilization,  and  so  it  continued 
till  it  was  conquered  by  Amrou  and  buried  in 
the  sands  with  all  its  pomp  and  glory  of  forty 
centuries. 

Now,  as  its  great  temple  is  being  uncovered, 
and  its  avenue  of  sphinxes  revealed,  we  can 
but  wonder  at  its  magnificence,  and  cease  to 
question  that  Memphis  had  once  a  circuit  of 
sixteen  miles.  In  the  Louvre  at  Paris  are  to  be 
seen  some  twelve  hundred  votive  and  sepul- 
chral tablets  taken  from  its  Serapeum  and  its 
Apeum  .  The  apis  was  the  sacred  animal  of 
this  city,  and  whenever  it  died,  or  was  killed, 
it  was  carefully  embalmed  and  sacredly  interred 
in  the  Apeum  whence  four  hundred  mummies 
of  this  animal  have  been  discovered  within  the 
last  thirty  years.  These  temples  are  lined  and 
faced  with  polished  red  granite  from  Syene. 
Here  are  symbols  and  hieroglyphics  telling  of 
a  people  highly  educated  before  Moses  taught, 
or  Homer  sung ;  here  are  relics  of  ai-t  which 
had  fulfilled  their  mission  of  cultivated  taste 
and  beauty  long  before  the  temple  of  Solomon 
glistened  with  gold,  or  the  Parthenon  reflected 
its  silvery  charms.  Here  are  representations 
of  ships  somewhat  like  those  now-a-days  seen 
in  Boston  Harbor;  of  glass-blowers  at  work 


LOWER   EGYPT   AND   CAIRO.  331 

like  those  we  saw  in  Venice ;  of  flax-dressers 
toiling  as  they  toil  in  Ireland  to-day :  of 
weavers  reminding  us  of  those  producing  the 
Roman  scarfs  ;  of  potters  turning  ofi"  as  elegant 
results  as  those  now  so  celebrated  at  Sevres  ;  of 
painters  who  were  masters  before  the  canvas ; 
of  statuaries  who  possibly  paved  the  way  for 
Phidias  and  Angelo  ;  and  of  gymnasts  who  evi- 
dently understood  how  to  pitch  the  quoit,  hurl 
the  javelin,  and  throw  the  ball.  In  how  many 
ways  the  history  of  Egypt  marks  the  history 
of  civilization  !  It  was  in  Egypt  the  Hebrews 
first  learned  their  lessons  of  fortitude  and  endur- 
ance. Here  was  called  out  the  grand  heroism  of 
Joseph  ;  here  Moses  was  made  the  great  lawgiver, 
and  Joshua  trained  to  his  royal  generalship.  It 
was  to  this  country  the  sages  of  Greece  repaired 
for  insstruction.  Rome  stood  abashed  in  the 
presence  of  Cleopatra.  Christianity  sufiered 
no  loss  in  the  Alexandrian  school  of  philosophy. 
Through  whatever  vista  we  look,  the  continuity 
of  human  history  carries  us  back  to  the  banks  of 
the  Nile,  as  the  source  of  philosophy,  science,  and 
art.  The  course  of  civilization  has  been,  Egypt, 
Greece,  Rome,  Modern  Europe,  America. 
Man  is  the  heir  of  the  ages  ;  and  step  by  step, 
his  progress  has  been  from  the  far  East  to  the 
far  West.  If  the  sun  of  his  fortunes  rose  in 
beauty,  it  promises  to  set  in  glory. 


xn. 

MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  JERUSALEM. 

TT  is  the  last  of  October ;  the  air  is  mild  ;  the 
-*-  sun  is  clipping  close  to  the  western  horizon ; 
and  the  sky  is  reflecting  opal  and  gold.  Here 
we  are,  two  thousand  feet  above  the  waters  of 
the  Mediterranean,  still  we  are  sun-ounded  by 
hills  upon  which  once  stood  cities  that  could  not 
be  hid.  On  our  right  is  Mizpah  crowned  with 
its  white  mosque,  wearing  the  appearance  of 
departed  greatness.  Just  under  its  shadow  lies 
Gibeon  thickly  belted  with  trees  of  fig  and 
olive.  To  the  left  is  Gibeah,  the  birthplace  and 
home  of  Saul.  To  the  east  is  Ramah,  now 
clothed  in  dust  and  ashes.  Near  at  hand  are 
wheat-fields  generally  covered  with  loose  stones. 
Here  and  there  are  patches  being  sown,  and 
others  becomiu":  orreen  Avith  ffrowins:  wheat. 
Close  by  is  a  peasant  hurrying  up  his  little  oxen, 
that  he  may  plough  in  before  sunset  the  wheat 
which  he  has  sown,  for  should  he  leave  it  un- 
covered during  the  night,  the  birds  would  be 
likely  to  capture  it,  befoi*e  he  should  return  to 


MODEEN  AND   ANCIENT  JERUSALEM.        333 

his  work  on  the  morrow.  '  As  we  survey  the 
farmer,  we  discover  that  he  is  an  Arab,  some 
forty  years  of  age,  being  five  feet  and  eight 
inches  tall,  having  a  piercing  eye,  a  broad 
chest  and  strong  limbs.  Outwardly  he  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  a  man,  but  as  our  dragoman  in- 
forms us  that  his  education  was  limited  to 
memorizing  a  few  Mohammedan  prayers  and 
learning  to  count  bukshish,  we  could  but  feel 
how  unfortunate  that  mind  should  be  thus  op- 
pressed. His  oxen,  though  six  years  old,  seem 
inferior,  when  compared  with  the  cattle  of  Eng- 
land, or  America.  The  yoke  consists  of  a 
rough  stick  cut  from  an  olive  branch,  made  fast 
to  the  necks  of  the  oxen  by  withes.  The  plough 
is  evidently  patterned  after  the  one  used  in 
Noah's  time  ;  it  cuts  a  furrow  about  four  inches 
in  depth  and  width.  The  sowing  in  Juda3a  is 
done  before  the  ploughing,  for  there  is  scarcely 
any  sod  to  be  broken.  As  we  look  at  the  fields 
we  can  but  wonder,  how  it  is  possible  for  vege- 
tation to  thrive  here  ;  everything  looks  scorched 
and  dried  up ;  for  the  past  four  or  five  months 
there  has  been  no  rain,  but  as  the  winter  shall 
set  in  and  the  ground  become  watered,  it  will 
give  forth  abundantly.  At  first  it  appeared 
strange  that  fields  should  be  so  completely  cov- 
ered with  stones,  but  on  examination  we  can 


334      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

understand  why  it  is  proper  and  necessary  ;  for 
the  outcropping  rock  is  of  lime  formation  and, 
when  pulverized,  forms  just  the  nutriment  for 
grass  and  wheat ;  so  these  stones,  as  they  lie  all 
the  long  summer  exposed  to  the  burning  sun- 
light- and  corroding  gases,  crumble  in  pieces 
and  become  suited  to  nourish  grain  and  plants. 
It  is  singular  how  crisped  and  sunburnt  almost 
everything  is  at  this  season,  except  where  the 
wheat  is  just  coming  up,  and  now  and  then 
little  clusters  of  crocus  blossoms  smile  out 
from  the  rocks.  As  we  dismount  from  our 
horses  and  pluck  these  flowers,  how  we  wish, 
we  might  send  bouquets  of  them  far  away  over 
the  seas  to  dear  friends,  because  they  would  be 
so  significant  and  clothed  with  the  richest  as- 
sociations. Bevies  of  larks  and 'sparrows  are 
flying  in  every  direction.  No  wonder,  if  the 
little  bu'ds  were  so  plenteous  in  the  time  of 
Christ,  that  four  should  have  been  sold  for  a 
farthing.  Then,  too,  the  birds  are  full  of  sweet- 
est song,  certainly  doing  their  utmost  to  over- 
come the  weird  appearance  of  desolation  which 
is  widely  prevailing. 

As  we  bend  round  a  spur  of  the  mountains, 
our  dragoman  exclaims,  "  There  is  Jerusalem  !  " 
and  lo  !  three  miles  southward  is  Jerusalem,  the 
city  of  which  we  have  read  and  dreamed  from 


MODEKN   AND   ANCIEXT   JERUSALEM.        335 

our  childhood.  Our  imagination  has  placed  it 
above  all  other  cities ;  we  have  regarded  it  as 
the  home  of  the  wisest  men  ;  as  the  spot  where 
the  saddest  and  greatest  deeds  have  been 
wrought ;  as  the  place  Avhere  prophets  have 
lived,  where  apostles  have  taught,  and  the  Son 
of  man  suflfered,  died,  and  was  raised  fronl  the 
dead.  In  thought  it  is  a  marvellous  city.  The  old 
seems  infinitely  superior  to  the  new  ;  though  we 
must  acknowledge,  the  modern  city  with  its 
walls,  battlements,  minarets,  domes,  and  towers, 
presents  a  grand  appearance.  Hills  and  moun- 
tains encircle  it ;  yet  it  stands  upon  a  cluster  of 
hills.  We  can  but  feel,  we  are  now  everywhere 
treading  sacred  ground.  All  the  way  from 
Joppa,  we  have  been  following  the  path  of  the 
prophets,  and  now  we  are  on  the  way  w^hich 
apostles  travelled  passing  from  Galilee  to  Mount 
Zion.  The  surface  is  greatly  diversified.  It  is 
plain  that  the  whole  country  is  of  volcanic 
origin ;  the  surface  rock  is  porous ;  and  the 
rounded  summits  bear  marks  of  aqueous,  as 
well  as  igneous  agencies.  It  would  be  difficult 
to  find  a  more  broken  landscape.  The  road  we 
are  following  is  no  more  than  a  goat-path,  still 
it  has  been  the  highway  from  Jerusalem  to 
Samaria  and  Galilee  for  thousands  of  years. 
When  within  a  mile  of  the  city,  we  are  informed 


336      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

that  upon  our  right  arc  the  tombs  of  the  Judges 
and  the  Kings,  cut  out  of  the  native  ledges,  but 
we  cannot  stop  to  examine  them  at  present. 
Soon  we  are  under  the  shadows  of  the  lofty 
walls  and  before  the  Damascus  Gate  of  the  city. 
We  cannot  gain  entrance  here,  because  the 
pacha  has  sent  forth  a  mandate  that  no  luggage 
shall  enter  this  gale- way,  so  we  are  forced  to 
turn  our  course  round  to  the  Jaffa  Gate.  On 
the  north  side  of  the  city  we  find  no  buildings ; 
the  vacant  space  appears  wild  and  forsaken  ;  at 
the  northwest  corner  ^ve  pass  over  a  spur  of  the 
mountains  which  divides  the  waters  of  the  Ke- 
dron  from  the  valley  of  Gihon;  on  the  west 
side  we  find  the  Russian  Hospice  consisting  of  a 
large  cluster  of  buildings  for  the  accommodation 
of  pilgrims  from  that  country,  and  a  long  block 
of  dwellings  for  the  accommodation  of  Jews  who 
jire  unable  to  secure  tenements  inside  the  walls. 
At  length,  w^e  find  ourselves  in  front  of  the  gete 
on  the  west.  Our  dragoman  informs  us  that 
here  we  will  be  oblio:ed  to  have  our  bao^oraore 
examined,  unless  we  buy  off  the  custom-ofll- 
cers ;  so,  as  they  present  themselves  ready  for 
duty,  we  slip  some  bukshish  into  their  hands, 
and  they  are  very  cordial  and  perfectly  willing, 
we  should  enter  the  city  without  any  further 
trouble.     So  in  single  file  each  horse  steps  his 


MODERN  AND   ANCIENT  JERUSALEM.       337 

length  into  the  gate-way,  and  then  to  the  left 
his  length,  and  then  to  the  right  his  length,  and 
behold !  we  are  within  the  city  of  Jerusalem. 
Now,  as  we  look  around,  we  are  ready  to  say 
distance  does  lend  charms ;  for  the  immediate 
does  not  equal  the  remote  view.  But  here  we 
are  within  walls  two  and  a  fourth  miles  in  ex- 
tent, and  from  thirty  to  sixty  feet  in  height. 
Their  crests  are  irregular  and  broken  by  battle- 
ments and  gate-towers.  At  first  sight  these 
walls  appear  formidable,  but  on  examination  we 
are  satisfied,  it  would  not  require  a  long  time 
for  an  American,  or  a  Prussian  battery  of  guns, 
if  favorably  adjusted,  to  raze  them  to  the 
ground.  We  see  remnants  of  other  walls  within 
the  present  one,  showing  that  other  cities  have 
stood  here.  Some  of  the  stones  composing 
them  are  immense,  and,  no  doubt,  bear  chisel- 
marks  which  were  made  more  than  two  thou- 
sand years  ago.  These  walls  were  constructed 
as  a  defence  to  the  city.  Through  them  open 
five  gates :  the  Damascus,  on  the  north ;  St. 
Stephen's,  on  the  east ;  the  African  and  Mount 
Zion,  on  the  south ;  and  the  Jafia,  on  the 
west. 

The  site  on  which  the  city  is  built,  inclines  to 
the  east,  and  the  houses  are  strangely  huddled 
together,  varying  in  height  from  one  to  two, 


338      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

three,  and  four  stories.  These  are  built  out  of 
gray  limestone,  having  flat  roofs  for  the  most 
part.  In  fact,  the  only  convenient  places  for 
walking  within  the  city,  are  found  upon  the 
tops  of  the  buildings.  From  the  size  and 
scarcity  of  the  windows,  we  would  infer  that 
the  people  do  not  believe  in  sunshine  and  good 
air.  Though  their  houses  are  joined  so  closely 
together,  still  there  is  much  vacant  space  with- 
in the  walls  of  the  city. 

Such  streets  we  have  never  witnessed  in  any 
other  town  ;  they  are  devoid  of  all  plan,  or  con- 
venience. As  we  pass  down  St.  David's,  the 
main  street,  we  find  it  paved  with  stones  which 
were  laid,  perchance,  before  the  time  of  the 
Crusades.  They  are  worn  so  smooth,  it  is 
with  difficulty  our  horses  can  move  over  them. 
They  are  too  uneven  and  irregular,  it  is  certain, 
'for  carriages  to  pass  over  them.  For  quite  a 
distance  this  street  is  arched  and  overtopped 
with  houses,  and  on  each  side  are  shops 
and  stores  having  rooms  from  six  to  eight  feet 
square,  and  six  feet  high.  In  a  store  is  usually 
kept  but  one  kind  of  goods,  and  not  so  much 
in  quantity  but  they  might  all  be  packed  with 
ease  into  a  Saratoga  trunk.  The  merchants  are 
evidently  pleased  with  their  calling,  and  feel 
that  they  are  doing  business  on  a  large  scale. 


MODERN   AND   ANCIENT  JERUSALEM.       339 

The  Turkish  and  Arabic  trades !ti en  are  gen 
erally  sitting  in  the  midst  of  their  goods,  so  as 
to  be  able  to  reach  handily  any  article  kept  for 
sale,  and  are  usually  anxious  to  sell,  unless  it 
be  at  the  hour  of  prayer  which  comes  ^ve  times 
a  day.  If  you  should  be  striking  a  bargain 
with  them,  and  the  muezzin  should  send  down 
the  call  from  the  minaret,  sa^ang,  -^It  is  the 
hour  to  worship  Allah,"  your  trading  would  be 
sure  to  stop  till  the  prayers  were  ended,  and 
when  these  should  be  completed,  the  merchants 
would  delight  to  drive  a  sharp  bargain. 

At  length,  while  advancing  on  this  street  we 
are  brought  up  against  a  dingy  wall  which  in- 
tercepts the  way,  bearing  the  marks  of  age. 
This  is  supposed  to  be  a  wall  that  belonged  to 
the  ancient  city.  As  we  turn  from  this  to 
Christ's  Street  towards  Damascus  Gate,  we  ob- 
serve many  changers,  brokers,  dry-goods  and 
hardware  merchants,  engaged  in  trade  on  no 
larger  scale  than  those  on  St.  David's  Street. 
While  passing  along  almost  every  merchant 
beckons  us,  or  holds  out  some  article,  hoping  to 
induce  ns  to  buy.  They  tease  foreigners,  as 
though  they  believed,  their  pockets  were  full  of 
sovereigns. 

But  what  are  we  after  in  particular  so  near 
the  close  of  the  day?     An  abiding  place  while 


340      AFTEE-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

we  may  sojourn  in  Jerusalem.  Arc  there  ho- 
tels here?  Yes,  two,  but  their  rates  are  so  ex- 
orbitant that  we  are  searching  for  the  Prussian 
Hospice,  where  our  dragoman  informs  us,  we 
can  be  comfortably  cared  for  by  paying  a  dollar 
a  day.  Soon  on  Christ's  Street  we  halt  before 
an  iron  door;  the  bell  is  rung,  and  immedi- 
ately the  key  is  turned  and  a  Prussian  gen- 
tleman presents  himself;  our  passports  are 
examined,  and  then  we  are  invited  to  ascend 
upon  the  house-top,  and  there  above  the  rest  of 
the  buildins^s  we  are  shown  into  a  room  which 
we  can  occupy,  when  we  wish,  during  our  stiiy 
in  the  city.  It  is  proper  to  state  here,  that  we 
find  this  a  Christian  home  and  our  wants  are 
well  supplied.  Of  course,  we  do  not  see  any 
beefsteak  on  the  table,  nor  much  mutton,  still  we 
have  chicken,  eggs,  tea  and  coffee,  and  good 
wheat  bread  which  is  occasionally  somewhat 
gritty  for  the  reason,  it  is  threshed  upon  the 
ground  and  winnowed  as  of  old,  and  usually 
ground  by  hand ;  however,  in  Jerusalem  they 
have  one  grist-mill  driven  by  mules.  The  water, 
as  it  comes  upon  the  table  in  glass  bottles,  is 
likely  at  this  season  of  the  year,  to  be  some- 
what disturbed,  as  we  look  through  it  towards 
the  light ;  at  least,  we  prefer  to  have  it  ])oiled 
some  time  before  we  attempt  to  drink  it.     On 


MODERN   AND   ANCIENT   JERUSALEM.        341 

the  whole,  we  have  no  reason  to  complain  of 
the  living  in  this  city. 

Before  exploring  farther,  it  is  proper,  we 
should  look  at  the  people,  and  study  somewhat 
their  characteristics.  We  learn,  there  are  in 
the  city  twenty-five  thousand  inhabitants.  Fif- 
teen thousand  of  these  are  Jews  ;  five  thousand, 
Moslems ;  two  thousand,  Greeks ;  fifteen  hun- 
dred, Latins  ;  four  hundred,  Armenians ;  eleven 
hundred,  Protestants  and  Copts. 

The  Jews  are  mostly  immigrants  from  foreign 
countries,  and  thoroughly  consecrated  to  their 
faith.  In  their  habits  they  are  peculiar.  The 
men  have  their  hair  shingled  behind,  but  hang- 
ing in  tresses  in  front  of  their  ears.  They  wear 
for  their  outer  «:arment  a  kind  of  dressinc^-o^own 
faced  with  fur,  and  caps  edged  with  fur.  Their 
women  are  attired  after  the  European  style. 
The  Jews  are  the  most  enterprising  class  in  the 
city.  Nearly  all  the  business  is  carried  on  by 
them.  They  are  as  expert  here  in  shaving 
money,  as  in  New  York,  or  London.  Their 
leading  characteristic  everywhere  is  persist- 
ency. 

The  Moslems  are  Turks  and  Arabs.  The 
men  are  well  formed  and  muscular,  but  the 
women  are  deformed  and  abject  looking  ])eings, 
as  a  rule.     The  wives  are  regarded  as  inferior 


342      AFTEE-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

to  their  husbands,  and  generally  treated  as 
slaves.  Their  religion  teaches,  woman  was 
fashioned  out  of  the  great  toe  of  man,  and 
therefore,  should  sul)mitto  his  authority  in  this 
life,  and  rest  in  a  diminutive  grave  after  death. 

The  Greeks  have  mainly  come  from  Grecian 
colonies.  Not  a  few  of  them  look  as  though 
the}'  might  have  some  of  the  old  Athenian  and 
Spartan  blood  coursing  their  veins.  The  sharp 
features  and  keen  eye  indicate  mind  and  cul- 
ture, yet  we  are  informed,  ignorance  prevails 
among  them,  and  that  even  some  of  their 
priests  are  unable  to  read,  or  write. 

The  Latins  are  mostly  Italians,  and  appear  as 
though  they  came  from  the  Sunny  Land.  They 
are  devoted  Catholics.  As  a  whole  they  are 
superior  to  the  Greeks  here,  and  far  in  advance 
of  the  Arabs.  Their  priests  are  generally 
monks  wearinor  the  cowl  and  the  lono^  brown 
frock  banded  to  the  body  by  a  rope  and  beads. 

The  Protestants  are  of  all  tongues  and  na- 
tions. The  mass  of  them  are  Europeans,  rank- 
ing, perhaps,  in  this  order,  Germans,  French, 
English,  and  Eussians,  though  more  speak  the 
English,  than  any  other  language. 

The  modern,  like  the  ancient  city,  is  divided 
into  four  quarters,  named  after  the  sites  which 
they  occupy.     Mount  Akra  is  the  northwest- 


MODERN   AND   ANCIENT   JERUSALEM.       343 

ern ;  Mount  Zion,  the  southwestern ;  Mount 
Moriah,  the  southeastern  ;  and  Mount  Bazetha, 
the  northeastern.  We  would  scarcely  think  of 
callino:  them  mounts,  their  elevation  is  so 
slight.  Still  they  must  have  been  greatly 
changed  since  the  time  of  the  first  city.  Sev- 
eral cities  have  been  built  above  them  and  de- 
stroyed, and  the  stones  and  mortar  out  of  which 
they  were  made,  compose  the  foundation  of  the 
present  city.  So  this  vast  accumulation  of 
debris  must  have  greatly  changed  their  original 
condition.  In  places  the  waste  must  be  thirty, 
or  forty  feet  deep. 

Going  upon  Akra,  we  at  once  realize  this  to 
be  the  Christian  quarter.  In  fact,  this  is  the 
cleanest  part  of  the  city.  Here  the  foreign 
ministers  and  consuls  reside.  Here  are  the 
Christian  churches.  As  we  inspect  these,  we 
find  the  Latin  burdened  with  pictures  of  the 
crucifixion  and  the  Virgin.  The  outward  is  ex- 
pressive of  religion.  In  the  Greek  church  we 
meet  with  few  pictures  and  statues.  The  edi- 
fice is  in  the  form  of  the  Greek  cross,  and 
exquisitely  simple  and  beautiful  in  all  its 
adjustments.  The  Protestant  church  is  plain 
but  convenient.  These  different  sects  here  ap- 
pear to  live  and  work  in  the  most  perfect  har- 
mony.    No  doubt,  they  agree  to  disagree,  and 


544      AFTER-TnOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

this  always  results  in  peace.  AVliile  wandering 
about,  we  are  troul)led  with  the  narrowness  of 
the  streets,  and  marvel,  how  people  can  suffer 
themselves  to  dwell  in  such  close  relations ;  for 
we  should  not  think  of  calling  the  highways, 
streets ;  because  they  are  too  narrow  for  that, 
being  not  more  than  three  feet  wide ;  however, 
St.  David's  and  Christ's,  are  possibly  nine,  or 
ten  feet  in  width. 

In  the  centre  of  Akra  we  come  to  a  huge 
stnicture ;  it  is  the  pool  of  Hezekiah ;  it  must 
be  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  wide,  and  fifty,  or  sixty  feet  deep. 
This  bears  the  marks  of  age.  It  is  said  to  have 
been  built  in  Solomon's  time.  Looking  at  the 
sides,  we  can  but  ask,  where  did  they  quarry 
those  vast  blocks  of  stone,  and  how  did  they 
place  many  of  them  so  high?  It  is  a  p  Tfect 
piece  of  masonry  to-day.  It  has  every  indica- 
tion of  endurin":  for  the  ao^es  to  come.  Look- 
ing  at  this  pool,  we  would  judge,  if  it  should 
be  filled  with  water,  it  would  supply  the  whole 
city  with  this  essential  element  for  more  than  a 
year,  and  yet  we  are  informed  that  nearly  every 
private  house  is  supplied  with  a  cistern  to  catch 
water  during  the  winter,  that  they  may  not 
suflTer  for  the  want  of  it  durinoj  the  lono^  drouo^ht 
of  summer. 


MODEEN   AND   ANCIENT   JERUSALEM.       345 

Leaving  this  quarter,  we  will  direct  our  way 
to  Mount  Zion,  over  which  tlie  Armenians  hold 
sway.  This  is  the  highest  part  of  the  city,  and 
the  inhabitants  here  would  be  pleased  to  have 
you  regard  it  the  aristocratic  portion.  We  first 
come  to  an  open  space  of  some  rods  in  ex- 
tent; this  is  the  exchange  and  parliament 
house  of  this  nomadic  people  who  want  no  other 
roofing  than  the  open  sky,  and  no  other  flooring 
than  tliese  rough  stones.  It  is  also  the  market- 
place where  we  see  several  caravans  of  camels ; 
one  of  which  has  just  come  in  from  Jaffa, 
loaded  with  wlieat  and  olives  ;  another  came  in 
yesterday  from  Hebron,  bearing  grapes,  figs, 
and  pomegranates.  The  camels  and  dromeda- 
ries look  wearied  and  forlorn.  Even  some  of 
them  that  came  in  yesterday  have  their  loads 
on  their  backs,  and  as  likely  as  not,  they  have 
had  no  food  for  the  last  twenty-four  hours.  It 
is  evident,  the  buyers  are  not  numerous,  or 
anxious  to  trade.  All  business  here  is  done  on 
a  slow  and  small  scale.  The  owners  of  the 
produce  are  forced  to  keep  a  sharp  lookout,  for 
hungry  dogs,  and  more  hungry  beggars,  are 
watching  an  opportunity  to  practise  substrac- 
tion  on  the  eatables.  Under  the  shadow  of  a 
wall  close  by,  we  notice  some  dervishes  and 
bedouins  sitting,  or  lying  on  the  ground,  while 


346      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

two  or  three  of  them  tire  sleephig ;  those  iiwake 
are  busily  engaged  transplanting  tleas  from  their 
own  garments  to  those  of  their  dreamy  com- 
panions. They  show  themselves  experts  in  this 
business,  for  only  experts  could  be  successful 
in  capturing  such  undiscoverable  tormentors. 
Even  Yankees  fail  in  this  undertaking  after 
much  practice. 

A  short  distance  to  the  west  near  the  Jaffa 
Gate,  is  the  tower  of  IIii)picus,  or,  perhaps,  as 
often  called,  the  lower  of  David.  We  obtain  a 
permit  of  a  half-dozen  Turkish  soldiers  guard- 
ing the  entrance  by  giving  them  liberally  of 
bukshish,  to  ascend  it.  Apparently  these 
guardsmen  feel  their  responsibilities  are  great. 
Their  uniforms  consist  of  blue  Turkish  spencers 
and  trousers  striped  with  3'ellow  braid.  They 
are  armed  w^ith  flint  lock-guns,  and  clumsy, 
broad-bladed  swords.  We  climb  a  hundred 
irregular  steps,  and  we  stand  upon  the  top  of 
the  tower,  whence  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the 
city,  and  an  extended  prospect  of  the  surround- 
ing scenery.  With  delight  we  gaze  upon  Oli- 
vet, Bethlehem,  and  portions  of  the  Kedron. 
Thrilling  associations  crowd  the  mind,  as  we 
stand  here,  and  inquire,  where  were  King  Da- 
vid's palace,  Solomon's  Temple,  Calvary,  Gol- 
gotha,  that  Judgment  Hall,   that  Communion 


MODERN   AND   ANCIENT   JERUSALEM.        347 

Chamber,  and  the  almost  countless  places  made 
memorable  by  noble  and  ignoble  deeds?  As 
we  descend  and  are  leaving  the  vestibule,  we 
notice  a  little  girl  of  sparkling  eyes  and  fairest 
complexion,  sitting  on  the  pavement  and  rock- 
ing her  little  body  back  and  forth.  She  has, 
perhaps,  experienced  eight  summers,  and  as 
many  winters.  But  what  is  she  now  doing? 
We  are  told  she  is  memorizing  Mohammedan 
prayers.  Who  is  she,  and  whence  did  she 
come?  She  is  a  slave  belonging  to  one  of  these 
officers,  and  was  purchased  in  the  land  of  Moab 
of  her  parents.  What !  do  they  raise  children 
there  at  the  present  day  to  sell,  as  we  do  our 
cattle  and  sheep?  Certainly,  and  what  was 
paid  for  her?  Our  dragoman  says  "some  three 
hundred  dollars."  What  is  to  become  of  her? 
Oh,  she  is  to  learn  a  few  prayers,  and  possibly 
be  taught  to  play  on  some  rude  instrument,  and 
by  the  time  she  is  ten,  or  eleven  years  old,  her 
master  will  take  her  as  a  wife,  or  concubine ! 
We  can  no  longer  doubt  that  civilization  has 
journeyed  westward,  or  be  too  thankful  for  our 
homes  and  the  sacredness  of  the  family  ties. 

In  the  Arabic  language,  or  the  language  of  the 
country,  they  never  call  this  monument,  tower, 
but  needle  ;  so  they  would  say,  "  The  needle  of 
David."    Through  the  basement  there  is  a  pas- 


348      AFTER-THOUGirrS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

sage-way  closed  by  a  door ;  still  they  do  not 
say  door,  but  eye.  The  opening  leads  into  a 
yard,  or  court  where  horses  and  camels  can  be 
kept  in  safety  from  robbers.  Now,  if  a  camel 
has  been  unloaded,  and  the  cameleer  wishes  to 
leave  his  caravan,  to  search  for  some  buyer  of 
his  unsold  goods,  he  dares  not  leave  the  unbur- 
dened animal,  unless  there  is  some  one  to 
guard  it.  So  if  he  is  alone,  he  will  take  the 
camel  that  is  free  from  any  1)urden  and  lead  it 
through  the  eye  of  the  needle  into  the  court 
referred  to.  Now  a  hor>e  can  go  through  the 
passage  without  any  difficulty,  but  the  camel 
must  crouch  and  rub  its  way  through.  No 
doubt,  this  needle  was  here  in  the  time  of  our 
Saviour.  Hence,  how  forcible  his  language  be- 
comes, when  he  was  addressing  those  rich 
Pharisees  and  Sadducees,  sayiug,  "It  is  more 
difficult  for  a  rich  man  to  enter  the  kingdom  of 
heaven  than  for  a  camel  to  go  through  the  eye 
of  a  needle." 

As  we  are  walking  over  this  sacred  ground, 
our  attention  is  attracted  by  pitiable  looking 
objects  on  the  tops  of  the  houses ;  some  of 
them  with  eyes  gone,  noses  wanting,  and  arms, 
handless ;  these  are  lepers.  As  we  approach 
the  buildings,  those  who  are  able  to  come  down 
into  the  street  approach  us  entreating  for  buk- 


MODERN    AND    ANCIENT   JERUSALEM.        349 

shish,  biikshish,  with  such  tones  as  pierce  the 
heart,  and  force  the  hands  of  pilgrims  deep  into 
their  pockets,  causing  them  to  bestow  generously 
upon  these  unfortunate  beings.  Here  is  a  lad 
near  us  who  has,  perhaps,  seen  six  or  seven 
bitter  winters ;  his  eyes  are  red  and  his  bare 
limbs  all  covered  with  whitish  scales  ;  his  very 
look  seems  to  say,  "  I  am  a  leper,  and  am  to 
die  a  leper;  my  life  is  worse  than  death." 
Here  is  another  who  has  suflfered  with  the  dis- 
ease for  more  than  twenty  years.  He  appears 
still  more  wretched ;  his  skin  is  of  a  darker 
color ;  his  countenance  wears  a  sadder  expres- 
sion ;  he  has  evidently  not  the  least  hope  of 
recovery ;  he  is  dragging  out  the  most  misera- 
ble existence.  By  the  wayside  is  another 
abject-looking  being.  It  would  seem,  she  is 
unable  to  walk ;  a  part  of  her  face  is  eaten 
away ;  she  no  longer  lifts  her  eyes  but  keeps 
them  fixed  upon  the  ground ;  she  is  apparently 
lonffino:  to  die.  But  have  we  not  reason  to  fear 
in  the  presence  of  such  a  loathsome  disease  ?  As 
the  lepers  approach,  they  are  very  careful  not 
to  touch  us,  for,  if  there  was  danger  of  this, 
the  cry  would  ring  through  the  city,  as  of 
old,  "  Unclean  !  unclean  !  "  The  lepers  are  not 
allowed  to  lean  against  a  post,  or  touch  any- 
thing  which  would  be  likely  to  expose  those 


350      AFTER-THOUGHTS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

free  from  the  disease.  No  doubt,  the  leprosy 
is  imparted  by  qontact ;  and  so  iii  this  respect 
the  greatest  caution  is  takeu  to  guard  against 
its  spread.  But  how  does  it  originate?  It 
would  appear,  as  a  general  thing,  from  filthiness 
and  improper  food.  Are  they  ever  cured  of  it? 
Yes,  there  are  instances,  where  those  afflicted 
with  it  have  been  fully  restored ;  this  has  been 
done  only  under  the  most  skilful  treatment. 

Had  we  time  it  would  be  interesting  to  enter 
the  Armenian  Convent  and  Temple  and  witness 
a  service,  or  look  upon  the  many  treasures 
garnered  up  in  this  sacred  place. 

The  only  two  synagogues  of  the  city  are  upon 
Mount  Zion.  These  are  crowded  to  overflow- 
ing at  their  Sabbath  worship.  The  Jews  here 
are  devoutly  religious,  and  strict  observers  of 
their  creeds  and  ceremonies.  !Many  of  the  aged 
remind  us  of  the  ancient  scribes  and  patriarchs. 
They  are  a  peculiar  people  and  decidedly  conse- 
crated to  their  church.  They  seem  to  believe, 
their  lost  tribes  will  ere  Ions:  be  restored  to 
their  beloved  land,  and  once  more  Israel  will  be 
strong  in  the  Lord. 

Here  David  had  his  beautiful  palace,  when 
Jerusalem  was  in  its  glory ;  and  here  tradition 
points  out  the  sepulchre  where  the  ashes  of 
the  inspired  poet  repose. 


MODERN    AND    ANCIENT   JERUSALEM.        351 

A  little  to  the  north  of  this  quarter  towards 
the  centre  of  the  city  is  the  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  which  at  the  present  time  is  the  most 
contentious  place  within  Jerusalem.  The  Ro- 
mans, the  Greeks,  and  the  Armenians,  all  lay 
claim  to  this  church.  So  necessity  has  divided 
it  up  into  three  compartments,  and  assigned  a 
certain  portion  to  each  of  these  religious  bodies ; 
still,  there  is  no  reconciliation  among  them ; 
they  despitefully  treat  and  persecute  one  another. 
Each  claims  to  have  possession  of  Calvary,  and 
to  understand  many  things  connected  with  the 
crucifixion  and  burial  of  Jesus.  The  spirit  that 
pervades  this  place  certainly  does  not  savor  of 
peace  and  brotherly  love.  The  building  itself 
is  not  particularly  inviting,  or  imposing,  though 
it  has  been  very  costly.  Perhaps,  it  is  sought 
after  more  than  any  other  structure  within  the 
city  by  strangers,  yet  by  the  Christian  scholars 
who  have  devoted  the  most  attention  to  the 
topography  of  historical  places  here,  it  is  not 
felt  that  this  church  marks  the  place  where  the 
Saviour  was  crucified.  No  doubt,  if  the  debris 
could  be  removed  from  the  site  of  the  old  city, 
the  locality  of  many  places  of  special  interest 
would  be  readily  discovered,  which  are  now  in- 
volved in  mystery  and  uncertainty. 

Crossing  the  Tyropsean  Valley  to  the  east, 


352       AFTER-THOUGHTS    OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

we  are  on  the  most  sacred  Moslem  ground  in 
the  world  save  that  at  Mecca  where  they  be- 
lieve their  prophet  lies  buried.  We  are  now  on 
Mount  Moriah.  This  is  a  cherished  spot  to  the 
Jew  and  the  Christian.  Here  we  tind  a  large 
space,  in  whose  centre  stands  the  mosque 
of  Omar  crowned  with  its  massive  dome  glis- 
tening in  the  sunlight  like  gold  and  precious 
stones.  Around  it  are  extensive  mosaic  pav- 
ings of  choice  marbles.  The  Mohammedans 
claim  that  it  stands  on  the  exact  site  of  Solo- 
mon's Temple.  We  gain  admittance  to  it  by 
paj'ing  an  exorbitant  fee,  and  find  within  l)ut 
little  of  striking  interest.  Of  course,  we  have 
the  privilege  of  looking  into  the  "  Well  of  the 
Leaf,"  and  the  "  Hole  "  where  tradition  says, 
"  The  Ark  of  the  Lord  rested."  There  are  no 
pews,  or  seats  in  this  temple.  The  Moslems 
worship  sitting,  or  lying  on  the  floor.  Should 
we  be  here  on  Friday  which  is  their  Sunday,  we 
would  have  the  privilege  of  witnessing  a  ser- 
vice. So  we  can  enjoy  three  Sabbaths  a  week 
in  this  city :  Friday  is  the  Mohammedan ; 
Saturday,  the  Jewish ;  and  Sunday,  the  Chris- 
tian. 

As  Ave  leave  the  mosque,  we  hear  the  cries 
of  the  muezzin  from  the  lofty  minaret,  announ 
cing  the  hour  of  prayer ;  and  at  once  the  Mos 


MODERN   AND   ANCIENT   JERUSALEM.        353 

lems  drop  upon  their  knees,  bowing  their  heads 
and  moving  their  lips  as  though  in  devoutest 
worship,  reminding  us  of  the  time  when  this 
place  was  disturbed  on  Sabbath  days  by  the 
bleating  of  sheep,  as  the  knife  was  put  to  their 
throats ;  by  the  lowing  of  bulls  and  heifers,  as 
they  were  led  out  to  slaughter ;  by  the  tramp- 
ing of  soldiers  on  guard ;  by  the  marching  of 
priests  in  long  processions ;  and  by  the  clamors 
of  worshippers  around  altars  flaming  with  many 
costly  sacrifices.  When  the  Jewish  horn  was 
blown  from  the  temple  wall,  announcing  the 
Sabbath,  all  labor  ceased.  No  one  was  sufiered 
to  kindle  a  fire,  make  a  bed,  boil  a  pot,  pull  a 
dumb  beast  from  the  ditch,  or  raise  an  arm  in 
self-defence.  So  when  Jesus  came  teaching 
that  it  was  lawful  to  do  good  on  the  Sabbath, 
what  an  uproar  was  made  !  Hearts  were  en- 
raged and  hands  were  lifted  to  slay  him ;  but 
Pharisaic  valor  was  not  equal  to  Christian  forti- 
tude. 

Near  the  mosque  of  Omar  is  another  large 
building  which  is  the  principal  harem  of  the 
city,  where  the  wives  of  the  Turkish  oflScers 
and  nobility  reside.  Soon  after  sunrise  and 
during  the  last  part  of  the  day,  may  be  seen 
moving  among  the  marble  columns  around  the 
structure  white  figures  of  veiled  women  who 


354      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

appear  as  mysterious  as  Hamlet's  ghost,  or  the 
weird  sisters  of  Macbeth. 

Let  us  now  turn  our  attention  to  an  Arab 
family  who  are  preparing  for  supper.  The 
members  consist  of  a  husband,  wife,  son,  and 
daughter.  The  man  is  a  peasant  who  has  just 
returned  from  the  field  where  he  has  been  sow- 
ing and  ploughing  in  the  wheat ;  the  wife  has 
been  to  the  public  fire  of  the  city  and  ob- 
tained a  few  live  coals  ;  the  children  have  come 
in  from  the  outside  of  the  city  with  little  hand- 
fuls  of  kindling.  The  mother  places  the  coals 
on  an  elevated  paving-stone  one  side  of  the 
travelled  way,  and  supplies  them  with  the 
scanty  fuel,  kindling  the  fire  into  a  blaze  ;  then 
she  puts  into  an  earthen  dish  a  pint  of  sweet 
oil,  a  pint  of  legumes,  and  a  pint  of  olive  fruit ; 
these  she  stirs  up  with  her  fingers,  and  holds 
the  vessel  over  the  flames,  moving  it  back  and 
forth,  at  the  same  time  bending  over  the  dish, 
so  as  to  catch  any  odor  rising  from  the  food ; 
when  her  olfactories  are  perfectly  satisfied  that 
the  mess  is  cooked,  she  removes  it  and  puts  it 
directly  in  front  of  her  husband  who  is  sitting 
on  the  pavement,  while  she  and  her  children 
stand,  or  sit  in  his  rear;  for  a  Moslem  hus- 
band and  father  never  eats  wdth  his  fiimily ; 
he  must  be  served  first ;  so  he  soon  begins  to 


MODEEN   AND  ANCIENT  JERUSALEM.       355 

take  from  the  dish  with  the  first  knives  and  forks 
ever  made  the  olives  and  legumes,  holding  his 
finoers  lon<2^  in  his  mouth  to  suck  off  the  oil. 
When  he  has  despatched  about  half  of  the  quan- 
tity, the  dish  is  removed,  and  his  "  hobble- 
bobble"  pipe  is  set  in  front  of  him  and  the  wife 
puts  into  its  bowl  some  new  Lebanon  tobacco 
and  supplies  it  with  a  fresh  coal ;  then  the  hus- 
band winds  the  serpentine  stem  round  his  body, 
adjusting  the  mouth-piece  so  that  he  is  at  once 
taking  his  comfort.  Now  the  mother  and  chil- 
dren repair  to  the  food  and  soon  dispose  of  the 
rest.  After  this,  the  goat-skin  bottle  of  water 
is  brought  forward  and  all  partake  of  the  uni- 
versal beverage  among  Mohammedans.  The 
meal  is  now  ended  and  the  family  soon  go  into 
their  house  which  is  close  by.  The  Arabs  and 
Turks  are  seldom  out  after  sunset.  As  we  look 
into  their  home,  we  find,  it  consists  of  a  single 
room,  some  twelve  feet  square.  We  discover 
no  chairs,  no  bed,  no  clothing  in  it,  nothing  in 
the  way  of  furniture  except  the  rudest  apology 
for  a  stove.  But  where  do  they  sleep?  Why, 
of  course  upon  the  floor !  We  notice  on  one 
side  of  the  room,  there  is  an  elevation  of  stone- 
work something  like  a  flat  German  oven  ;  well, 
this  is  the  husband's  bed,  and  when  the  weather 
is  cold,  a  fire  is  built  under  it,  to  keep  him 


356      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGX  TRAVEL. 

warm  as  he  retires,  but  the  wife  and  chil- 
dren can  endure  sleeping  on  the  cold  sand. 
This  is  the  average  Moslem's  home. 

As  we  proceed  to  the  north,  leaving  Mount 
Moriah,  we  come  to  the  rise  of  ground  called 
Bezetha.  This  is  the  Mohammedan  quarter, 
and  is  thickly  occupied  with  buildings.  Here, 
too,  we  find  St.  Stephen's  Gate  and  the  pool  of 
Bethesda ;  no  doubt,  this  pool  is  one  of  the  an- 
cient works ;  there  is  no  water  in  it  now.  As 
we  pass  along  the  Via  Dolorosa,  we  notice  in 
the  walls  fragments  of  poi^phyry  columns  and 
plinths  of  vcrde-antique,  projecting  over  doors 
and  windows,  telling  of  other  cities  and  older 
civilizations. 

Turning  from  the  Via  Dolorosa  towards  the 
centre  of  the  city,  we  are  among  the  shops 
of  shoemakers,  blacksmiths,  and  wooden-ware 
workers.  These  are  not  on  a  large  scale. 
Shoemakinor  seems  to  take  the  lead.  The 
ground  everywhere  is  so  stony,  there  is  the 
greatest  demand  for  shoes ;  but  the  shoes,  how 
they  look  I  They  would  be  curiosities  and  un- 
accountables  in  the  shop  windows  of  France  or 
America.  The  street  is  the  blacksmith's  shop  ; 
and  to  shoe  a  horse,  it  takes  three  men,  one  to 
hold  him,  and  another  to  hold  up  his  foot,  and 
still  another  to  fit  the  shoe  and  drive  the  nails. 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  JERUSALEM.       c57 

In  some  of  the  shops,  quite  a  business  is  being 
carried  on  in  the  way  of  making  boxes,  ink- 
stands, rules,  and  numerous  curiosities  from 
wood  brought  from  different  parts  of  the  coun- 
try. 

Leaving  the  shops,  we  come  to  an  open  court 
around  which  are  many  men  and  women  offer- 
ing for  sale  chaplets,  rosaries,  and  crosses,  made 
from  olive  wood  ;  pebbles  from  the  Dead  Sea ; 
apples  of  Sodom  from  beyond  the  Jordan ;  oak 
from  Mamre  ;  relics  from  Bethany  and  Bethle- 
hem; souvenirs  from  Samai-ia  and  Galilee. 
But  we  are  soon  beyond  the  clamor  of  these 
greedy  merchants,  and  are  again  surrounded  by 
Turkish  soldiers  armed  with  pistols  and  sabres, 
who  are  guarding  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 

It  is  Friday  afternoon,  and  we  must  not  fail 
to  visit  the  Jewish  Wailing  Place  which  is  to 
the  rear  of  the  Mosque  of  Omar  toAvards  the 
centre  of  the  city.  It  consists  of  a  triangular 
space,  overshadowed  on  the  east  by  an  an- 
cient wall  which  is  reputed  to  be  a  portion 
of  the  wall  existing  in  the  days  of  King 
Solomon.  At  least,  it  bears  marks  of  great 
antiquity.  At  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
the  Israelites  begin  to  assemble  here.  They 
have  purchased  the  right  of  the  Turkish  govern- 
ment to  occupy  these  gi-oimds   every  Friday 


358      AFTER-TnOUGnTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

afternoon  from  three  to  five  o'clock.  The  Jews 
have  fared  hard  here,  and  still  do ;  they  have 
been  smitten  on  every  hand,  but  their  pride, 
their  trust,  and  their  hope,  are  undaunted. 
Hither  they  come,  old  men  with  snow-white 
beard  and  trembling  steps ;  young  men,  the 
pride  of  their  nation ;  women  dressed  in  linen 
and  sackcloth  ;  and  little  children  ;  all  press  to 
this  spot  so  sacred  to  them,  with  their  parch- 
ment Bibles  in  hand,  desirous  to  commune  with 
the  past  and  hope  in  the  future.  On  reaching 
this  phice  they  hold  their  faces  to  the  old  walls 
in  silent  pra^'er ;  this  sei'vice  continues  for  sev- 
eral minutes  in  perfect  silence.  Then  the  aged 
are  seated  on  the  stone  flooring,  and  some  rabbi 
recites  a  passage  from  Lamentations,  and  soon 
all  voices  are  joined  with  his  in  pathetic  tones, 
repeating  the  wailiugs  of  their  departed  prophets 
and  wise  men.  It  is  not  long  before  they  are 
worked  up  into  intense  angiush,  wringing  their 
hands,  swinging  their  bodies,  beating  their 
breasts,  and  weeping  copious  tears.  We  can- 
not question  their  sincerity.  After  this  experi- 
ence which  lasts  nearly  half  an  hour,  an  aged 
rabbi  rises,  who  reminds  us  of  the  patriarchs, 
and  addresses  the  assembly,  paying  deference 
to  the  past  and  speaking  most  encouraging 
words  as  to  the  future,   entreating  his  people 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  JERUSALEM.       359 

never  to  falter  but  always  press  foi^ward,  and 
the  Lord  will  restore  once  more  their  beloved 
Mount  Zion,  and  rebuild  their  wondrous  tem- 
ple. At  the  conclusion  of  his  remai'ks  another 
priest  recites  a  promise,  and  quickly  all  voices 
are  repeating  in  unison  stirring  words  of  Jewish 
sage  and  seer.  The  faces  are  now  lighted  up 
with  joy,  and  all  hearts  seem  to  be  sure  a  good 
time  is  coming  to  the  lost  children  of  Israel ; 
and  now  the  benediction  comes,  consisting  in 
shaking  hands  warmly  throughout  the  large 
assembly,  bidding  each  other  a  God-speed  in 
their  religious  work.  Having  witnessed  this 
affecting  service  and  others  of  this  religious 
body,  we  cannot  doubt  that  great  changes  are 
yet  to  come  to  this  city  through  the  Jews. 
They  are  flocking  hither  from  all  quai-ters  of 
the  world.  They  are  willing  to  undergo  any 
hardships,  if  they  can  only  die  in  Jerusalem  and 
be  buried  by  the  brook  Kedi'on. 

Passing  outside  of  the  walls  to  the  northwest, 
we  find  a  spur  of  the  mountains  extending  close 
down  to  the  city,  which  divides  the  Kedron  from 
the  valley  of  Gihon.  As  we  follow  the  latter, 
we  soon  come  to  a  pool  of  Gihon  which  is  an- 
other immense  cistern,  being  in  a  state  of  de- 
cay. As  we  descend,  the  valley  keeps  drawing 
in  towards  the  city,  and  soon  we  are  under  the 


360      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

shadows  of  Mouut  Zioii.  As  we  look  up 
towards  the  city,  we  discover  the  hillside  is 
very  steep  aiid  stony.  Here  we  come  to  the 
second  pool  of  Gihon  which  is  about  six  hun- 
dred feet  long,  four  hundred  wide,  and  fifty,  or 
sixty  feet  deep.  These  pools  were  built,  it  is 
thought,  in  the  time  of  Solomon.  Just  above, 
to  the  west,  is  an  aqueduct  leading  along  the 
mountain-sides  to  Bethlehem,  and  three  miles 
beyond  to  the  pools  of  Solomon,  consisting  of 
three  vast  cisterns  graded  one  above  the  other 
like  steps,  which  are  ^ve  hundred  feet  long, 
three  hundred  wide,  and  fifty  deep.  These  are 
all  grand  works  telling  of  a  people  living  more 
than  two  and  a  half  thousand  years  ago,  who 
were  skilled  in  quarrying  stone  and  piling  them 
into  massive  structures.  A  little  below  the 
large  pool  of  Gihon  the  valley  turns  to  the 
east.  Here  the  severe  image  of  Moloch  stood 
at  the  time  the  Jews  were  wont  to  worship  that 
deity.  Here,  when  that  monster  was  fired  to 
red  heat,  they  would  place  women  and  children 
in  his  consuming  grasp,  to  appease  his  wrath, 
and  secure  their  salvation.  Because  of  the 
cries  and  groans  of  the  dying,  they  would  beat 
drums  to  stifle  and  drown  the  agonizing  tumult, 
and  so  the  Israelites  named  the  place  Tophet. 
After  this,  as  the  Jews  returned  to  the  service 


MODERN  AND  ANCIENT  JERUSALEM.   361 

of  the  true  God,  they  despised  the  place  and 
its  surroundino^s,  hurlinor  into  it  the  oflfal  of  the 
city.  The  Greeks  called  it  Gehenna,  and  to 
protect  the  city,  a  fire  was  kept  constantly 
burning,  to  consume  the  waste  and  filth ;  and 
so  Christ  referred  to  it  as  the  place  "  where  the 
worm  dieth  not  and  the  fire  is  not  quenched." 

In  this  valley  on  the  south,  the  ledges  are 
cropping  out  in  many  places,  and  these  are 
honey-combed,  as  receptacles  for  the  dead ; 
some  of  the  openings  are  large  enough  to  con- 
tain one  corpse  ;  others,  two,  or  three,  or  many. 
It  would  seem,  in  olden  times  they  did  not  be- 
lieve in  burying  the  dead  in  loose  soil,  but 
must  inter  them  in  the  solid  rock ;  and,  more- 
over, before  they  could  be  laid  away  in  these 
silent  recesses,  they  must  be  carefully  em- 
balmed. As  we  climb  up  the  ledges  on  the 
south  a  short  distance  before  reaching  the 
brook  Kedron,  we  come  to  the  spot  which  tra- 
dition points  out  as  the  "Potter's  Field,"  or 
Aceldama,  which  the  priests  purchased  with  the 
"thirty  pieces  of  silver"  received  from  Judas, 
as  the  price  of  our  Saviour's  blood ;  but  we 
do  not  find  it  a  field ;  it  is  a  cavern  in  the 
ledges  being  partly  natural  and  partly  artificial. 
Really,  it  is  a  room  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet 
square.     We  have  little  reason  to  doubt  that 


362      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 

this  is  the  place  purchased  for  the  burial  of 
strangers  with  the  money  that  became  so  despi 
cable  in  the  sight  of  Judas.  Descending  and 
crossing  the  valley  up  towards  the  city,  we 
stand  by  the  pool  of  Siloara.  Here  the  water 
is  gushing  out  in  quite  a  large  stream  from  the 
sidehill,  and  where  it  trickles  down  into  the 
valley,  "the  lily  grows"  and  " Sharon's  dewy 
rose  "  does  still  smile. 

Leaving  this  spring  and  descending  a  short 
distance  to  the  east,  we  are  by  the  brook  Ke- 
dron  and  in  the  valley  of  Jehoshai^hat.  In  this 
autumn-time  there  is  no  water  running  in  the 
brook.  Sliould  we  be  here  in  April,  there 
would  be  a  large  stream  of  water.  Its  bed  now 
is  full  of  stones.  Close  upon  its  banks  and  far 
up  the  sides  of  Olivet  are  Jewish  graves  thickly 
sown.  Now  and  then  may  be  seen  an  aged 
Israelite  walking  in  this  silent  city,  or  resting 
upon  some  grave,  as  in  the  act  of  praying  that, 
when  he  dies,  he  may  be  buried  among  tiie 
graves  of  his  fathers.  This  is  truly  a  sacred 
spot  to  the  Jew. 

If  we  follow  the  Kedron  down  half  a  mile 
from  the  city,  we  come  "to  an  opening  made 
in  search  of  antiquities.  Being  let  down  into 
this  some  fifteen  feet,  we  find  ourselves  in 
a  canal   cut   out  of   the  solid  rock,    six   feet 


MODERN   AND   ANCIENT   JERUSALEM.        363 

high  and  five  feet  wide.  As  we  examine  the 
sides,  we  see  where  the  water  had  worn  out 
creases,  showing  that  it  must  have  flowed 
through  this  channel  for  a  long  period.  Be- 
fore advancing  towards  the  city  very  far,  we 
come  to  a  stairway  leading  to  the  surface ; 
the  steps  themselves  have  been  w^holly  worn 
away.  When  the  stairs  were  first  opened  up, 
keys  and  pieces  of  pottery  were  found  at  their 
junction  with  the  canal,  implying  that  formerly 
multitudes  used  to  come  here  for  water.  We 
do  not  ascend  much  farther  before  we  discover 
another  similar  stairway.  Tlien  we  come  out 
of  this  dark  recess,  and  pass  to  the  southeast 
corner  of  the  city,  just  outside  of  the  walls, 
and  are  let  down  by  the  means  of  a  rope  eighty 
feet,  and  then  following  an  opening,  out  tow- 
ards Mount  Zion  for  a  considerable  distance,  * 
we  come  to  the  sides  of  a  building  constructed 
of  marble,  or  fine  limestone ;  the  stones  are  ac- 
curately bevelled  and  firmly  cemented  together, 
so  that  a  penknife  blade  cannot  be  pressed  be- 
tween them ;  yet  what  building  this  was,  or 
who  piled  it  up,  no  one  can  guess.  Could  all 
the  waste  of  the  city  be  removed,  what  discov- 
eries would  be  brought  to  light !  Could  we 
look  upon  them,  we  would  be  ready  to  admit 
that  the  oldest  things  are  the  newest.     Follow- 


364      AFTER-THOUGHTS   OF   FOREIGN   TRAVEL. 

ing  the  Kedron  which  draws  in  toward  the  walls 
of  the  city,  we  soon  find  ourselves  in  the  most 
sacred  place.  This  is  Gethseiuane,  forever  con- 
secrated by  that  divinest  of  prayers,  "  Not  my 
will,  but  thine  be  done."  Here  are  olive-trees 
growing,  as  they  grew,  when  the  disciples 
rested  here,  waiting  for  the  Master,  while  he 
went  out  to  pray.  Here  Jesus  was  betrayed 
by  that  deceitful  kiss  into  the  hands  of  a 
raging,  priestly  mob  crying,  "Crucify  him, cru- 
cify him."  I  How  can  this  be  otherwise  than  an 
afiecting  and  cherished  spot  to  all  Christian 
hearts?  We  have  such  emotions  here,  as  we 
never  have  had  before.  Often,  perchance,  we 
have  had  joyful  feelings,  while  visiting  some 
grove,  or  spot,  once  frequented  by  poet,  or 
scholar ;  or  while  climbing  to  the  top  of  castle 
*  walls  redolent  with  tales  and  legends  of  bravest 
heroism ;  or  while  visiting  the  homes  of  Scott, 
Shakespeare,  and  Bryant;  or  while  standing  by 
the  tombs  of  Von  Humboldt,  Harriet  Brown- 
ing, Raphael,  Virgil,  and  Abraham  Lincoln. 
It  is  sweet  to  visit  places  where  great  souls 
played  in  childhood,  nobly  wrought  at  life's 
noon,  and  were  gloriously  translated,  as  the 
mortal  dimmed  and  wasted  away.  Here  in 
Gethsemane  we  think  not  of- poet,  artist,  or 
scholar,  but  of  Him  who  was  infinitely  more 


MODERN    AND    ANCIENT   JERUSALEM.        365 

than  all  these,  who  journeyed  through  this  land, 
looking  upon  these  hills  and  valleys,  stones  and 
flowers,  birds  and  stars,  men  and  angels,  that 
He  might  forever  bless  the  human  race.  In  Flim 
we  see  divinity;  and,  if  we  walk  in  His  light, 
we  shall  evermore  enjoy  the  New  Jerusalem. 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Augsburg  and  Protestantism 133 

Alpine  Waterfalls 173 

American  Artists  in  Rome 222 

Ancient  Rome 230 

Aventine  Hill 238 

Avernus  and  Sibyl's  Cave  256 

Ascent  of  Vesuvius 260 

Ascent  of  Lycabettus 280 

Attica  and  its  Influence 281 

Acropolis,  its  Relics 288 

Alexandrian  Library 304 

A  Wedding  Scene  in  Cairo 319 

Ascending  Cheops , 325 

At  the  Damascus  Gate 336 

An  Arab  Family  and  Mode  of  Living 354 

Aceldama 361 

British  Museum  and  its  Wonders 44 

Bank  of  England 50 

Bread  Street,  Birthplace  of  Milton 61 

Broadest  and  Finest  Street  in  Europe 72 

Boulevards  of  Paris 86 

Burgos  and  its  Cathedral 107 

Bavarian  Statue  at  Munich 147 

Berlin,  its  Places  of  Interest 152 

Berne  and  its  Bears 185 

Berne  Cathedral  and  College 187 

Boboli  Gardens  of  Florence 206 

Buildings  and  Streets  of  Rome 216 


368  INDEX. 

PAGB 

Bridges  across  the  Tiber 217 

Baths  of  Caracalla 243 

Bay  of  BaioB 257 

Battle  of  Salainis 271 

Bezetha  and  Via  Dolorosa 356 

Business  of  Jerusalem 356 

Cl/de  and  its  Shipbuilding 3 

Cathedral  and  Necropolis  of  Glasgow 6 

Calton  Hill  and  its  Monuments  . .   18 

Castle  Rock 21 

Cleopatra's  Needle  on  the  Thames 56 

Cannon  Street  and  the  Romans 58 

Cheapside  and  Guildhall 61 

Coruhill  and  the  Poet  Gray 62 

Churches  and  Preachers  of  London 64 

Champs  Elys'^'es  and  its  Gardens 74 

Conservatory  of  Measures 79 

Churches  of  Paris  and  Religious  Status 82 

Columbus  in  Spain 100 

Cervantes  and  his  "  Don  Quixote  " 107 

Cordova,  the  Oxford  of  Spain 108 

Cologne  Cathedral 126 

Calvin,  the  Reformer 180 

Castle  of  Chillon •.  184 

Campagna,  its  Desolation 211 

Climate  of  Rome 213 

Churches  of  Rome 218 

Colosseum  and  its  History 231 

Capitoline  Hill  and  Tarpeian  Rock 237 

Cloaca  Maxima 237 

Coclian  Hill 239 

Catacombs  of  St.  Calixtus  and  St.  Sebastian 244 

Castle  of  St.  Elmo 254 

Catacombs  of  Alexandria 309 

Citadel  of  Cairo 320 

Course  of  Civilization 331 

Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre 351 


INDEX.  369 

PAGE 

Dresden  Gallery,  its  Madonna  del  Sisto 144 

Duomo  of  Florence,  and  other  Noted  Buildings ....  1 93 

Dante,  his  Life  and  AVork' 195 

Destruction  of  Pompeii 263 

Donkey  Hide  to  Pyramids 324 

Descent  into  Excavations  near  Mount  Zion 363 

Edinburgh  and  its  History 15 

Edinburgh  Schools 28 

English  House  of  Parliament 52 

Education  and  Benevolent  Institutions  of  Paris 89 

Escurial,  Palace  of  Philip  II 109 

English  Cemetery  of  Florence 207 

Egyptian  Columns  in  Rome 218 

Esquiline  and  Viminal  Hills 240 

Education  and  Schools  in  Greece 276 

Egypt  and  Cairo 297 

Experiences  in  Cairo 315 

Egyptian  School 317 

Entrance  into  Jerusalem 336 

Experience  at  the  Prussian  Hospice 340 

Fingal's  Cave 1 

Fleet  Street  and  its  Associations 59 

France  and  Early  History 67 

French  Artists 78 

From  France  into  Spain 106 

Florence,  its  Natural  Beauties 189 

Florence  and  its  History 191 

Forum  and  Basilica  of  Trajan , 236 

Founding  of  Alexandria * . . .  303 

Fields  in  Judasa 333 

First  View  of  Jerusalem 334 

Greenock  and  James  Watt 3 

Glasgow 5 

Glasgow  and  Physical  Condition 5 


370  INDEX. 

PAGE 

George's  Square  and  its  Statues 6 

George  Street  and  its  Monuments 21 

Grassmarket  and  Covenanters 24 

Greyf rlars  Church  and  Churchyard 25 

Gladstone  and  Northcote 52 

Grenada  and  the  Alhainbra 108 

Germany,  its  Situation  and  History 119 

Germans,  their  early  Religion 125 

Graves  of  Luther  and  Melancthon 131 

German  Music 140 

German  Art  and  Artists 142 

Glacial  Wonders 175 

Geneva  ^Cathedral  and  College 1 80 

Genevese  Scholars 182 

Galileo,  his  Tower  and  Works 199 

Galleries  of  Florence 202 

Government  of  Rome 222 

Greece  and  its  Island  Views 269 

Government  of  Egypt 309 

Goshen  and  the  Israelites 314 

Gethsemane 364 

Highlands  of  Scotland 13 

Holy  rood  Palace  and  Edinburgh  Castle 22 

High  Street,  Past  and  Present 22 

Heriot  Hospital 25 

Hotel  de  Cluny  and  its  Relics 79 

Hotel  des  Invalides  and  Museum 80 

Hebrews  in  Egypt 331 

Harem  and  Veiled  Women 353 

lona  and  Scotch  Kings 1 

Illustrations  of  Scripture 312 

Janiculum  Hill  and  Tasso's  Garden 242 

Jerusalem,  Modern  and  Ancient 332 

JeAvish  Wailing  Place ; 357 


INDEX.  371 

PAGE 

Kensington  Museum,  its  Treasures 46 

King  Street  and  Spenser 62 

Kedron,  its  Recent  Excavations 362 

Legend  of  Robert  Bruce  and  Spider 2 

London  and  its  History 33 

London  Tower 37 

London  National  Gallery 53 

London  Parks 54 

Luxemburg  Palace,  its  Treasures 79 

Libraries  of  Paris 88 

Leipsic,  Musical  Centre  of  Germany 142 

Luzerne,  its  Attractions 168 

Lake  Leman,  its  Classic  Spots 179 

Lausanne,  Resort  of  Gibbon 183 

Leo  XIII.  and  his  Cardinals 223 

Landing  at  Alexandria 299 

Lepers  on  Mount  Zion 348 

Madeleine,  a  Grecian  Church 85 

Means  of  Traffic  in  Paris 87 

Moors  in  Spain 98 

Madrid,  its  Past  and  Present Ill 

Madrid  Museum  and  Art  Galleries 116 

Munich  and  its*  Pinakothek 143 

Munich,  its  Gly ptothek 145 

Museum  and  Bronze  Foundry  of  Munich 146 

Madame  de  Stael's  Home  and  Grave 183 

Michael  Angelo's  Home  and  Tomb 194 

Museum  on  the  Capitoline  HiU 221 

Mamertine  Prison 235 

Museum  at  Naples 264 

Modern  Athens 274 

Mount  Pentelicus,  its  Marble  Quarries 284 

Mars  Hill  and  St.  Paul 295 

Market  of  Alexandria 306 

Memphis,  its  Sepulchres 330 

Mount  Akra 342 


372  •  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Mount  Zion 345 

Mount  Moriah  and  Mosque  of  Omar 352 

Notre  Dame,  dedicated  to  St.  Genevieve 69 

Notre  Dame,  its  History 83 

Notre  Dame  as  it  now  is 84 

Naples,  its  Past  and  Present 248 

Nero  and  liis  Mother 258 

Needle  of  David 347 

Oxford  and  Regent  Streets 63 

Origin  of  the  Romans 229 

Olivet  and  Jewish  Graves 362 

Princes  Street  and  Monument  of  Scott 20 

People  of  Edinburgh 27 

Prince  Albert's  Monument 67 

Paternoster   Row 62 

People  beyond  the  Rhine 69 

Paris,  its  First  Name 69 

Paris  Six  Hundred  Years  ago 70 

Paris  University  and  its   Teachers 70 

Place  de  la  Concorde,  its  History 74 

Pantheon  and  Tombs 85 

Priesthood  in  Spain *. 105 

Potsdam,  Birthplace  of  Humboldt 138 

Powers's  Life  and  Sculptures 208 

Pagan  Rome  and  its  Hills 214 

Progress  in  Italy 228 

Pantheon  of  Rome 236 

Palatine  Hill 239 

Pinciau  and  Quirinal  Hills 241 

Puteoli  and  St.  Paul 255 

Petrified  Sentinel 268 

People  of  Greece 276 

Plain  of  Marathon '. 286 

Parthenon  and  other  Temples 290 

Pnyx  Hill  and  Demosthenes 293 


INDEX.  373 

PAGE 

Pillar  of  Pompey 302 

Palm-Trees,  gathering  of  Fruit 305 

People  of  Jerusalem 341 

Pool  of  Siloam 362 

Kobert  Burns  and  Ayr 7 

Eeformation  in  Spain 103 

Rhine,  its  Castles  and  Legends 122 

Religious  Expression  of  German  Cathedrals 128 

Religion  in  Germany 151 

Rhigi,  its  Ascent  and  Charms 171 

Rousseau's  Garden 181 

Religion  in  Geneva 182 

Rome,  its  Situation 211 

Rome,  the  Capital  of  Italy 217 

Roman  Triumphal  Arches 233 

Roman  Forum 234 

Relics  of  the  Buried  Cities 2G6 

Ride  to  Cairo 310 

Rise  and  Fall  of  the  Nile 313 

Roads  of  Judaja 335 

Russian  Hospice 336 

Scotland I 

Scotch  Lakes , 14 

St.  Giles's  Church  and  John  Knox 24 

Scott  and  Abbotsford 31 

St.  Paul's  Cathedral 42 

Smithfield  and  its  Jousts 62 

Schools  of  London 64 

St.  Chapelle,  its  Beauty  and  Use 84 

Spain,  its  First  Inhabitants 95 

Spain  Three  Centuries  Ago 101 

Seville  and  First  Inquisition 107 

Strasburg   Cathedral 127 

Schools  and  Universities  of  Germany 147 

Switzerland,  Natural  and  Historical 157 

Switzerland,  its  Government 167 


374  INDEX. 

PAGB 

Swiss  Life 168 

Swiss  Highways 1 73 

Savonarola  anfl  his  Martyrdom 198 

St.  Peter's,  its  Wonders 218 

State  of  the  Church  iu  Rome 223 

Schools  and  Education  in  Rome 227 

Scliools  of  Naples 252 

Solfatara  and  Forum  of   Vulcan 255 

Scenes  from  Naples  to.Resina 259 

Scenery  about  Athens 279 

Socrates  and  his  Prison 294 

Scenes  in  Alexandria 301 

Sowing  and  Ploughing  in  Judaa 332 

Site,  Streets,  and  Buildings  of  Jerusalem 338 

Stores  and  Tradesmen  of  Jerusalem 338 

Tower  Hill  and  Penn 62 

The  City  where  Paris  now  stands 69 

The  City  of  Paris  and  its  Characteristica 71 

The  View  from  Arc  de  I'Etoile 71 

Tuileries  and  their  History 75 

The  Louvre  and  its  Galleries  of  Art 76 

Tomb  of  Napoleon  L 81 

Tell  and  Gessler 162 

The  Tiber,  Past  and  Present 212 

Travertine  Stone 213 

Temple  of  Vesta 238 

Tombs  of  the  Scipios 243 

Tomb  of  Caecilia  Metella 243 

Thrilling  Experience  in  a  Catacomb 246 

Tunnel  of  Posilippo 254 

Temple  of  Theseus 293 

The  Sphinx 329 

Tower  of  Hippicus,  and  Touching  Lacideut 346 

Tophet  and  Moloch 360 

Valladolid  and  its  Places  of  Literest 107 

Vatican  and  its  Art  Treasures *  220 


INDEX.  375 

PAGE 

y irgil's  Home  and  Tomb 254 

Valley  of  the  Nile 311 

Views  from  the  Pyramid 327 

Valley  and  Pools  of  Gihon 359 

Wallace's  Tower  and  Dunglace  Castle 4 

Westminster  Abbey,  its  Monuments 39 

Wittenberg,  Home  of  Luther 129 

Worms  in  the  Reformation 132 

Weimar,  its  Poets 136 

Within  the  Pyramid  of  Cheops 327 

Walls  of  Jerusalem 336 

Zwingle,  his  Noble  Death. 165 


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